Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Replacing the Clutch Master Cylinder
Alfa Romeo 145 - 146 Forum > Technical > FAQ
andymlm
Hi all,

Just got my first 145 a cloverleaf all the way from ireland! it was very keenly priced as it needs a few jobs, the most important of which is the clutch master cylinder, I have removed the clevis and retaining nuts from inside the car but how the hell do you get at the slave feed union?

Any advice would be appreciated as Im itching to get it on the road.

AndyMLM
purple
welcome to the forum

unfortunatly, I have not got a clue how to do this, I looked on mine and see your problem, you need impossibly thin, long arms to get to it. I tried to find out on the repair disc and I could not find it on there. I guess it has to be from underneath or possibly remove the wheel arch liner but IIRC the alternator is in the way and thats a PITA job as well.

I've not heard of master cylinder failure on these before, whereas the slave is very common, I would not wish to do a hellish looking job and find it the wrong part.

HTH
andymlm
QUOTE(purple @ 17th June 2007 21:49) *
welcome to the forum

unfortunatly, I have not got a clue how to do this, I looked on mine and see your problem, you need impossibly thin, long arms to get to it. I tried to find out on the repair disc and I could not find it on there. I guess it has to be from underneath or possibly remove the wheel arch liner but IIRC the alternator is in the way and thats a PITA job as well.

I've not heard of master cylinder failure on these before, whereas the slave is very common, I would not wish to do a hellish looking job and find it the wrong part.

HTH


Hi there,

Well its not the master cylinder itself, when I got the car you had to pump the pedal to get a gear, I had the car picked up and bought home to avoid damaging the box, I topped up the low reservoir and found fluid widdling down the clutch pedal! having looked the plastic feed elbow had broken off the top of the master cyl! how the hell that happened I dont know, spent an afternoon trying to fit an alternative feed pipe which would have been easy if i could have got the damn master out of the car! I have it unbolted and pulled back as far as possible, ebay turned up a new master with plastic fitting, Im worried that Ill break the new fitting getting it in the old cylinder due to the lack of space, but tommorow I will be attempting it! if Im sucessfull its mot time and on the road! the car had a few jobs such as rear pads down to metal on the o/s (new ones fitted on the n/s!) removing the caliper and gentle persuasion sorted that out, the exhaust rubbers where all shot so all replaced, its just the damn clutch now!

The car does have a rather noisey tap from the top end when cold which fades when warmed up but still there, the cars been standing a while so I have changed oil and filter and Ill do some careful running and perhaps lift the cam cover to see if theres any lobes left!

looking forward to getting it on the road.....
purple
may be just the variator on the way out, they can rattle like diesel on start up, but a tired one will carry on rattling. Does not do any harm, just sounds a bit crap and you loose the VVC effect a little.

Good luck with that clutch cylinder, sounds and looks a PITA
purple
just noticed your signature, you have a 75? piccies please!
andymlm
QUOTE(purple @ 20th June 2007 23:32) *
just noticed your signature, you have a 75? piccies please!


Will do, Its a nice project! and when a mate picked it up his mate said he had the 145 for sale so I bought that as well!

After removing the drivers seat and partially stripping the pedal box I managed to fit the feed pipe! a quick bleed of the clutch and brakes and its ready! the only downside was arriving at the mot station and finding out they cant enter the cars details, its been off the road since 2005, is a irish import car, i have all the paperwork and they cant get the vin number into the machine! very frustrating as I was confident it would pass and i wanted to take it the bromley motor show on sunday, have to wait till monday now when they will try again,

Had a chance to drive it to the test centre and was very happy with it, I changed the oil and have found the noisey top end is getting quieter with use, once the 145 is on the road proper Ill start the 75 project....

heres the 145



Heres the 75....



purple
women do it with shoes, go out for one pair and come back with two so why not Alfas.

Are those 17in wheels on the 75? makes it look like a Alfa Allroad as the suspension has not been lowered, I am at the same stage myself, 17s that are a bit too big, however first, I have to get the engine back in next week.

both cars looking good biggrin.gif
andymlm
QUOTE(purple @ 22nd June 2007 21:03) *
women do it with shoes, go out for one pair and come back with two so why not Alfas.

Are those 17in wheels on the 75? makes it look like a Alfa Allroad as the suspension has not been lowered, I am at the same stage myself, 17s that are a bit too big, however first, I have to get the engine back in next week.

both cars looking good biggrin.gif


cheers,

Yes a bit strange the old 75, it has shiney bilstein shocks all round and lovley red rear springs and its well high at the back! the rear wheels have got crazy 245/45/17 remoulds on though! when I get going on the project i will fit the same tyres all round 205s on the front, am looking for more sensible wheels but will stick with the 17s in the meantime.

I also have a strada abarth as well thats half way through a re-build! but its in bits and the alfas are all together so If I can just avoid taking too many bits off at a time........

The strada was the car I wanted to get done for bromley/auto italia in may missed both with that one! and getting the 145 ready has come to nothing as well! maybe next year....
crit71
The 75's always looked high though didn't they. If you lower it, chances are you'll have real problems with speed bumps etc. Have a look under the car and notice how close the exhaust is to the road already wacko.gif
andymlm
QUOTE(crit71 @ 23rd June 2007 17:31) *
The 75's always looked high though didn't they. If you lower it, chances are you'll have real problems with speed bumps etc. Have a look under the car and notice how close the exhaust is to the road already wacko.gif


yeah, Im just going to fit the same size tyres as the front and dump those crazy rear tyres! looking forward to getting it on the road.

The 145 finally got its mot with only a cracked exhaust box joint to sort out,
Engwi44
Greetings Alfisti and fellow 145 / 146 fans,

One thing is for certain - a clutch master cylinder replacement is no fun job. I looked around and initially thought it will be simple:
  • I removed the metal pipe leading to the slave (easily done from below)
  • Next got inside the car and removed the connection to the pedal
  • Then removed the two nuts holding the cylinder (after getting the accelerator pedal out of the way..)
Then the main issue stared me in the face - the rubber pipe feeding the master cylinder - fastened with a clamp I can never get to like this.

I am certainly going to have to get the driver's seat and out proceed like andymlm did - strip as much of the clutter out of the way to get to that damn pipe and install my new master cylinder.

Imagine my frustration - enjoying my newly rebuilt 145 just to have the clutch master fail on me a second time in two years.
The master and slave was re-done (new rubbers) by a dealer some time ago - but honestly I can't see how it got this badly worn again after so short a while - the master cylinder (which I got out with force (white plastic pipe going into the master cylinder stayed behind in the car after I got a bit violent..) is so badly worn that by simply shaking the master cylinder around (holding it by the cast iron casing) the actuator / arm wiggles in and out with no effort.

Will try and post some pics.... Wish me luck..
kirk46
pics will be good as i think i need to do mine sad.gif

what were your symptoms of the failed master cylinder?
Engwi44
Hi kirk46

Symptoms

The clutch pedal had the same behaviour before the "dealer" replaced the rubbers 2 years ago. The car stood for a month or so - and when I drover her to the dealer for a service, the pedal travel started to get less and less, in such a way, when comparing the pedals - the clutch pedal was halfway down compared to the others - pulling the pedal back with your foot - the pedal was ok for a while but then as it got used, gradually started to do a return travel half way up upon release, so much so, that even after pulling the pedal back manually, it simply drops limply to the floor - completely useless - no pressure on the pedal at all.

The rubbers got replaced like I said (dealer job) then shortly afterward, my car had top end damage and I ended up rebuilding the whole thing myself (took me nearly 2 years) - Drove the car for about two weeks after the rebuild and - presto - the issue was back again. Not sure if it was related to the two year's non use - but it beats me how a clutch master's rubbers can fail again after being overhauled. Any other car - overhaul of the rubbers would have seen the master (and slave) do many more hours of work - but then again, this is an Alfa - seems better to replace than to repair I suppose...

Pics

This is a pic of the clutch master removed with the pedals still in place...

[attachment=11214:Pedals_S...In_Place.JPG]

This is a pic of the setup with all the pedals removed (actually accelerator pedal still in but loosened to get to the second nut holding the cylinder in place..)

[attachment=11215:Pedals_out.JPG]

Here's a pic to show that the pedals got removed..

[attachment=11217:Pedal_Assembly_out.JPG]

New and old cylinders...

[attachment=11218:New_and_...ylinders.JPG]


High level Process to replace the clutch master cylinder
  • Remove driver's seat (4 Alan bolts)
  • Loosen and pull down, the back of the fuse / relay box next to the pedals (check pic where pedals got removed - right hand side of pic to understand what I mean)
  • Disconnect and remove the brake light switch on the brake pedal (made things a bit simpler for me..)
  • With a 17mm socket and spanner on the other end, loosen and remove the long bolt that holds the pedals in place (you will soon realize why I got the fuse box out of the way..)
  • Remove the clutch and brake pedals complete with washers / shims
  • Loosen and remove the small bracket that is still bolted to the brake servo (closest to the clutch pedal)
You should now have enough room to get to that silly little pipe with its clamp.. (good luck though - even with all the clutter removed - its still a mess)

What I also did - and it might not be needed (I have a habit of making more work for myself sometimes) was to disconnect the pipe feeding the master cylinder, from the reservoir, detaching it from its brackets on the firewall and thus allowing me to move the pipe so that the rubber pipe inside the car could be pulled a little further out to actually get to the thing - I think if I did not do that - I would have had a harder time getting the new one in and clamp fastened again.

Anyway - my new cylinder is in, but that is where I stopped for the night, will see if I have the strength to fit the rest of the items back in tonight, but right now, I am so fed up with these insane Italian cars, I don't know how anyone can wake up one day and say "Hey - I want to become an Alfa Romeo mechanic" (bloody MAF on my GTA had just gone as well, another ZAR 1900.00 bill I am looking at) (this clutch master on the 145 was ZAR 960)..

Sigh - I suppose I will forget about all this once this car is back on the road - it really is a pleasure to drive !
chardy146Ti

My master cylinder seals blew once I'd changed the slave....aaaargh ! I did mine when I had the gearbox out so could drop the engine a little and not have the subframe in the way to give more space to work in the engine bay for the union nut which was still a complete PITA to reconnect (took an hour to get it threading in straight). I did the cylinder with the seat and pedals all in ! (think I should join the circus as a contortionist). Pulling the feed pipe off the bulkhead does help to get the new cylinder reconnected too.
Good luck to anyone that attempts this job, got to be THE worse job to do on any car and I've worked on a lot !
Engwi44
QUOTE
Pulling the feed pipe off the bulkhead does help to get the new cylinder reconnected too.


.. well - I did not have the luxury of a lowered engine to disconnect and feed the pipe (intake manifold kind of in the way) but I agree - it helps - further more - you just earned by greatest respect and admiration for doing this job with the pedals and seat still in place (not sure if the 146 has bit more space in that department than the 145 - but I cant image so - so well done. worshippy.gif
kirk46
cheers Engwi44 biggrin.gif

i only changed the slave a month back too lol

well my symptoms are not that bad, but when the car is left overnight the clutch pedal does drop and inch or 2, so i keep have to lift it with my foot...

with a new slave and it bleeded properly thats the only problem i think it could be?
Engwi44
QUOTE
..for the union nut which was still a complete PITA to reconnect (took an hour to get it threading in straight)


On this one - what I normally do is NOT fasten the master cylinder to the studs yet - and then get the union in - because the master can be moved around as so allow you to thread the union in at any angle it wishes, then only go and fasten the cylinder.
Engwi44
Howzit Kirk46

Those symptoms sounds all too familiar - you might be getting away with it now - but let me tell you - it will simply fail on you - plonk - and the pedal is on the ground ! (still donít know how chardy146Ti did the job without the removal of the seat and pedals - but like he said - he must have awesome contortionist-ic skills)
kirk46
QUOTE(Engwi44 @ 4th January 2011 10:28) *
Howzit Kirk46

Those symptoms sounds all too familiar - you might be getting away with it now - but let me tell you - it will simply fail on you - plonk - and the pedal is on the ground ! (still donít know how chardy146Ti did the job without the removal of the seat and pedals - but like he said - he must have awesome contortionist-ic skills)



I see that will be my next job then whistle.gif unsure.gif

cheers for the write up biggrin.gif
Engwi44
one last thing I can add (and its something else that crossed my mind while working on this mess) was that a potential (granted its more work) alternative to make this job simpler (or rather less painful) would be to disconnect the rubber pipe where its clamped to the metal pipe behind the intake manifold (would probably be possible with the intake manifold out of the way..) and pull the old master - rubber pipe and all out, then fit the new master with the rubber pipe while its out and put the whole lot back in that way - because really the only thing that really makes the job a pain is that stupid little rubber pipe and its clamp.

Itís the only way I can see doing this job with the seat and pedals still in place - just a thought - shoot me down - I donít mind - I am no mechanic...
kirk46
how long did the job take you mate? biggrin.gif
chardy146Ti
QUOTE(Engwi44 @ 4th January 2011 10:28) *
Howzit Kirk46

Those symptoms sounds all too familiar - you might be getting away with it now - but let me tell you - it will simply fail on you - plonk - and the pedal is on the ground ! (still don’t know how chardy146Ti did the job without the removal of the seat and pedals - but like he said - he must have awesome contortionist-ic skills)


Kirk46,

Got to agree with here, my slave replacement was fine for 2 weeks then the pedal started to drop so I re bled and it was OK. Left the car sitting for 3 days and the pedal was on the floor with a little pool of fluid under the pedals ! The fluid was black when it came out, now nice and yellow !
I also agree that disconnecting the rubber hose from the pipe on the engine side of the bulkhead may work much better (clamp the outlet hose from the reservoir first !)..............................and if I'd known the pedals came out that easy................................ mad.gif
Allow 3 hours at least, most of that is moving stuff out the way !
Oh and Eezibleed is a saviour once it's all back together. Good luck ! wink.gif
kirk46
cheers biggrin.gif

does seem like a good idea but ive never taken the inlet manifold off before whistle.gif doh.gif

i have the eezibleed biggrin.gif

just got the master cylinder 55 quid... will fit it tomorrow all being well biggrin.gif
chardy146Ti
QUOTE(kirk46 @ 4th January 2011 13:18) *
cheers biggrin.gif

which rubber hose is it?
ive had a look and most seems to be metal but there is one that rubber but then goes into a metal pipe?

i have the eezibleed biggrin.gif

just got the master cylinder 55 quid... will fit it tomorrow all being well biggrin.gif


If you peer into the footwell at the top of the master cylinder (don't forget the torch!), you'll see a small rubber hose that is "jubileed" onto a white plastic elbow and it goes through the bulkhead.
In the engine bay there is a couple of inches more rubber before it goes onto metal pipe along the bulkhead until just under the reservoir where it reverts back to rubber to the reservoir. Inlet manifold will have to come off if you want to stand any chance of seeing it, let alone reaching it but haven't done that before/yet !!
Pick up some new small jubilees as the clips are prob the original unreleasable ones !
HTH
kirk46
QUOTE(chardy146Ti @ 4th January 2011 13:43) *
If you peer into the footwell at the top of the master cylinder (don't forget the torch!), you'll see a small rubber hose that is "jubileed" onto a white plastic elbow and it goes through the bulkhead.
In the engine bay there is a couple of inches more rubber before it goes onto metal pipe along the bulkhead until just under the reservoir where it reverts back to rubber to the reservoir. Inlet manifold will have to come off if you want to stand any chance of seeing it, let alone reaching it but haven't done that before/yet !!
Pick up some new small jubilees as the clips are prob the original unreleasable ones !
HTH



just edited my previous post lol

yes got some jubilees too biggrin.gif

also ill have to drain all the brake fluid to as it cant be clamped?
fer145
Great guide! Thanks Mate!! wink.gif
kirk46
QUOTE(Engwi44 @ 3rd January 2011 11:51) *
[*]I removed the metal pipe leading to the slave (easily done from below)



there is no way i can get to the union nut from below?

please tell me how lol
chardy146Ti
QUOTE(kirk46 @ 6th January 2011 13:41) *
there is no way i can get to the union nut from below?

please tell me how lol


Just had a refreshing look at mine again and the only possible way I can see to get to the union nut is to take off the rear engine support bracket (with the exhaust clamp)...........don't forget to put a jack under the engine, although allowing it to drop a bit might help too! I hope you have slim and long arms !
Otherwise I think it's either drop out the subframe or remove the inlet manifold, neither of which is easy ! no3.gif
kirk46
ive had enough sad.gif

ive removed the seat, pedals etc no way can i get any where near the hose or the union nut sad.gif

i seen i guide on how to remove the inlet manifold..... puke.gif puke.gif

ive been at it nearly 4 hours and the master cylinder in still in place rant.gif rant.gif its only loose
chardy146Ti
QUOTE(kirk46 @ 6th January 2011 15:18) *
ive had enough sad.gif

ive removed the seat, pedals etc no way can i get any where near the hose or the union nut sad.gif

i seen i guide on how to remove the inlet manifold..... puke.gif puke.gif

ive been at it nearly 4 hours and the master cylinder in still in place rant.gif rant.gif its only loose


I feel for you mate, it's a s**t job even sat under the car where the gearbox used to be.......................you don't happen to need to change your wishbones/ARB links too by any chance then it'd be worth dropping the subframe out dunno.gif
I hate being able to see nuts and bolts but not get to them rant.gif thumbdown.gif
Engwi44
QUOTE
there is no way i can get to the union nut from below? please tell me how lol


I simply removed the front section of my exhaust pipe (detach from the exhaust manifold and the flange that bolts it to the rest of the system at the back) then it was simple - certainly one of the simpler parts of that procedure - let me run out and try and take a pic...

Car up on stands and front section of Exhaust removed..

[attachment=11227:Car_up_e..._the_way.JPG]

Union easily reached from below.. (circled in red - open the larger image - dont try and see it on this thumbnail)

[attachment=11228:Union_ea..._reached.JPG]

Oh and - if you think things have been "fun" till now - wait till you have to fit the new cylinder to that stupid little rubber pipe while its in there - I tell you - I'd had a snowball's hope in hell of doing that if I did not disconnect the feeder pipe from the reservoir and pulled it back that extra little bit (you cant move it allot - but that little extra helps...) I don’t blame you for being 4 hours down the line and still struggling (probably why I am doing it in stages and when I feel like it)
kirk46
QUOTE(chardy146Ti @ 6th January 2011 15:26) *
I feel for you mate, it's a s**t job even sat under the car where the gearbox used to be.......................you don't happen to need to change your wishbones/ARB links too by any chance then it'd be worth dropping the subframe out dunno.gif
I hate being able to see nuts and bolts but not get to them rant.gif thumbdown.gif



yes i do lol....

im getting a sub frame off naanbread and painting it putting new wishbones/ pollybushes etc on it then fitting it to my car....

may not be for a while tho rolleyes.gif
kirk46
QUOTE(Engwi44 @ 6th January 2011 15:32) *
I simply removed the front section of my exhaust pipe (detach from the exhaust manifold and the flange that bolts it to the rest of the system at the back) then it was simple - certainly one of the simpler parts of that procedure - let me run out and try and take a pic...

Car up on stands and front section of Exhaust removed..

[attachment=11227:Car_up_e..._the_way.JPG]

Union easily reached from below.. (circled in red - open the larger image - dont try and see it on this thumbnail)

[attachment=11228:Union_ea..._reached.JPG]

Oh and - if you think things have been "fun" till now - wait till you have to fit the new cylinder to that stupid little rubber pipe while its in there - I tell you - I'd had a snowball's hope in hell of doing that if I did not disconnect the feeder pipe from the reservoir and pulled it back that extra little bit (you cant move it allot - but that little extra helps...) I don’t blame you for being 4 hours down the line and still struggling (probably why I am doing it in stages and when I feel like it)



with me being in england and all the hammer the car has had on uk roads there is no way i can un bolt the front pipe... the bolts had rusted solid a long time ago no3.gif unsure.gif

also the rest of my system is welded to the front pipe sad.gif

how did you find putting the pedals back with all those spacers/washers falling out? rant.gif
Engwi44
QUOTE
with me being in England and all the hammer the car has had on uk roads there is no way i can un bolt the front pipe... the bolts had rusted solid a long time ago also the rest of my system is welded to the front pipe
Ok, then all I can suggest is that you get those nuts off the studs on the flange on the exhaust manifold somehow(on my car these arenít bolts - they are studs on the flange end with nuts from the bottom)
If yours have bolts then damaged bolts can be replaced.

With that at least loose - you will / should be able to lower the exhaust pipe down far enough and out of the way (might have to detach some exhaust hangers as well perhaps) to get in there and loosen that union - going the intake manifold route is allot of work.

QUOTE
how did you find putting the pedals back with all those spacers/washers falling out?


Well I will only attempt putting it all back together on Saturday - but I would push that long bold, bit by bit - shim by shim and pedal for pedal - guiding the washers each in turn till the whole thing is through. Will certainly feedback to the forum on my experience completing the job - right now - my master cylinder is in its place and rubber pipe fastened.

And please - when you fit your new master - DONT fasten the cylinder completely till you have gotten under the car and got the union to thread in correctly - only then - get back in the car and complete the job - otherwise you are signing yourself up for allot more misery.
kirk46
QUOTE(Engwi44 @ 6th January 2011 16:43) *
Ok, then all I can suggest is that you get those nuts off the studs on the flange on the exhaust manifold somehow(on my car these aren’t bolts - they are studs on the flange end with nuts from the bottom)
If yours have bolts then damaged bolts can be replaced.

With that at least loose - you will / should be able to lower the exhaust pipe down far enough and out of the way (might have to detach some exhaust hangers as well perhaps) to get in there and loosen that union - going the intake manifold route is allot of work.
Well I will only attempt putting it all back together on Saturday - but I would push that long bold, bit by bit - shim by shim and pedal for pedal - guiding the washers each in turn till the whole thing is through. Will certainly feedback to the forum on my experience completing the job - right now - my master cylinder is in its place and rubber pipe fastened.

And please - when you fit your new master - DONT fasten the cylinder completely till you have gotten under the car and got the union to thread in correctly - only then - get back in the car and complete the job - otherwise you are signing yourself up for allot more misery.



hi thanks for that... i will have to save it for another day now....

they may be nuts then.... they will need a good dose of penertrating fluid first

ive put everything back together bar the pedals as its was being a real PITA so i left then till tomorrow.

with me using my car daily then any jobs i do need to be done quick lol so i dont have the luxury of taking me time atm sad.gif

also i forgot to add the return spring for the clutch has popped out and can i heck get it back in place lol
buellboy
HERE IS HOW I DID IT without messing about with pedals:

OUTSIDE THE CAR/IN THE ENGINE BAY
1. Remove the inlet manifold (follow GE's excellent guide)
2. Drained the fluid with a siringe
3. Take the cover of the bonnet realease and throttle cable off by un-doing the 2 10mm nuts(that's the black box just to the left of the union nut)
4. Undo the 13mm union nut
5. To the top right of the union nut you will see a hose clipped into a a pipe. Undo that clip and disconnect the hose

INSIDE THE CAR
1. Remove the clip that holds the master cylinder to the clutch
2. Get at least 2 extensions bars and a 13mm 1/4" drive socket. It must be the 1/4" or you will not be able to get at the nuts
3. Undo the 2 13mm nuts that hold the master cylinder in. A TIP: hold the accellerator pedal down to get to the left nut, don't drop the washers.
4. Take the master cylnder out and PULL it along with the flexi-hose. It should come out no problem.

NOW THE TRICK !
As Engwi44 explained, putting the flexipipe and jubilee back into the slave cylinder is a mission. Essentially it's too much of a tight space! This is what I did!:

1. Bought myself a foot and a half of 8mm of flexi hose
2. Passed the new flexi-hose through the bulkhead using a little fairy liquid
3. Now connect the flexi hose to the clutch master and tighten the jubilee clip.
4. Pull the hose from the engine bay so that the "extra pipe" goes from being in the car to being in the engine bay. It is worth mentioning that whilst pulling I also used some long nosed pliers to locate the master cylinder in.
5. I found this way that I had the cylinder already in its proper position with the holes in the bolts pretruding from the bulkhead. (but maybe that was luck)
6. Use a magnetic pickup tool to position the washers in.
7. Tighten the 13mm bolts in BUT DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN, really you want it just enough that the nuts don't fall out
8. Now attach the master to the clutch pedal (you wouldn't be able to do this if you fully tightened the 13mm nuts)
9. Attach the reaitining clip and washer
10. Fully tighten the nuts using the 1/4" extensions and the "accelerator down" trick
11. Cut the excess pipe down to size
12. Connect to pipe and tighten jubilee clip
13. Connect union bolt

The rest is the reversal of the removal of the inlet pipe. Honestly for and extra £5, just buy the extra lenght pipe and be done with it!
Engwi44
Howzit buellboy,

I like the way you think worshippy.gif Thanks for your method - Hope I don't have to do this job ever again but that strategy has merit !
Whilst I had the pedals out - I gave all components - bushes and bearings for the pedals a fresh treatment of grease - ready for the next 10 year's service smile.gif

Cheers
kirk46
finally fitted this using Gio's guide cheers bud biggrin.gif
930Tech
To the people who have done this job, is it easy to remove the metal and rubber pipe that is fitted between the master cylinder and the slave cylinder?

Thats all i need to do i think, easy to get at the master cylinder end from underneath the car?
GTV sean
Hello gents..

Im having a similar problem on my 145... When I bought the car I noticed that the clutch wasn't right and that it seemed to disappear after standing for more than an hour or so...

I've redone the slave cylinder and ive checked it for leaks and there isn't a single leak to be seen?

I'm thinking it's my master cylinder as the car stood for quite a while whistle.gif

Anybody else think the same thing?

Pics also required please! laugh.gif
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2021 Invision Power Services, Inc.