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> Cylinder Head Rebuilding [1], Engine only firing on 3 cylinders
hazeyblue
post 2nd April 2006 12:21
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Fingers crossed for a painless expereince... lets see some more snapz. cool.gif
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F355
post 2nd April 2006 14:30
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Good to hear it doesn't seem as bad as I was expecting, but like you say you need to get the valves out before you can really confirm it smile.gif

As for de-coking I used acetone. Soak a rag in it and leave it down the bores for a few hours. After that the crap just wipes off the pistons. I got the head professionally cleaned when I had the valve seats cut.
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laaf
post 2nd April 2006 14:50
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How about doing the petrol test?
With the head upside down and the valves resting just pour some petrol into the top chambers.
If the petrol drains out your valves need reseating, if it doesn't they've obviously not touched anything and it's up to you to leave or pull apart.
It sounds like you're making rapid progress. Shame the weather's so on & off today.


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GialloEvo94
post 2nd April 2006 21:31
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All the non-damaged valves and all valve seats look in perfect condition but I will petrol test before everything goes back together just in case any do need regrinding.

I removed the springs, and every valve apart from the obviously bent exhaust one sit and spin perfectly ok in their seats, and there was no play in any of the valve guides whatsoever (which I didn't expect as these were all changed not so long ago anyway). I also took out all valves and spun them in an electric drill. All of the other 15 ran perfectly true so it seems I was lucky to get away with just one bent valve. It still boggles me though how just one valve became bent and all the others got away without any damage whatsoever unsure.gif How on earth did the other exhaust valve in the same cylinder survive??? huh.gif

Is it ok for me to replace just the ONE damaged valve or should I really replace both exhaust valves in that cylinder?? unsure.gif

Anyway, a selection of piccies below. I will post up a full set once I've completed the job in a couple of weeks time.































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laaf
post 2nd April 2006 22:40
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Those are excellent pictures.
Was it that clean when it came off?
It looks like it won't be long before it is on the road again.


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purple
post 2nd April 2006 22:54
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yeah great photos, thanks for sharing, it gives hope to the rest of use not brave enough to tackle a head job
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F355
post 2nd April 2006 22:59
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Good pictures.

It looks like its going to be quite a cheap rebuild smile.gif Are you replacing the variator still?

edit: seen your other thread smile.gif

This post has been edited by F355: 2nd April 2006 23:17
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GialloEvo94
post 3rd April 2006 12:27
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QUOTE(laaf @ Apr 2 2006, 11:40 PM)
Those are excellent pictures.
Was it that clean when it came off?
*

I haven't yet done any cleaning and it was like that when it came off smile.gif but that is probably only due to it having been completely reconditioned not so long ago.

I do need to clean some of the other more dirty bits though before it all goes back together. I guess the best way to clean them is with gunk...or is there something better I can use?


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GialloEvo94
post 3rd April 2006 12:36
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QUOTE(F355 @ Apr 2 2006, 11:59 PM)
It looks like its going to be quite a cheap rebuild smile.gif
*

Click HERE for a full set of pics from the work I managed to get done done so far this weekend.

Unfortunately the repairs still aren't that cheap but a hell of a lot cheaper than the 2.5k quoted by the garage ohmy.gif I could have got away without replacing the belts and tensioners as these are only just over a year old and look to be in perfect condition but I'd already decided to replace these again and bought the parts before I knew the state of them so it was probably better to have spent an extra few huundred quid and be safe than sorry. You will notice from my pics that the new automatic tensioner for the cambelt is now made completely from metal so it should be pretty much indestructable unless the spring loading or bearing goes. I also had to splash out on some specialist tools but some of these can be used again for other jobs. If anyone is interested in how much this sort of job costs then a rough breakdown of the costs I have incurred so far (including VAT) are shown below:

Parts:
Exhaust Valve (EB Spares) - 14
Head Gasket Set (EB Spares) - 76
Head Bolts (EB Spares) - 23
Cam Belt (Shop4Parts) - 16
Balance Shaft Belt (Shop4Parts) - 32
Adjustable Timing Belt Tensioner (Shop4Parts) - 38
Fixed Timing Belt Tensioner (Shop4Parts) - 18
Adjustable Balance Shaft Belt Tensioner (Shop4Parts) - 35
Variator (Partsworld UK) - 70
3 x 2L Selenia Racing Oil 10W/60 (Shop4Parts) - 43
Oil Filter (Shop4Parts) - 6
Loctite 243 (eBay) - 7

Specialist Tools:
Cam Locking Blocks (EB Spares) - 38
Draper 22-Piece Ribe Socket Set (eBay) - 17
Draper 3/8" 10-80Nm Torque Wrench (eBay) - 19
Torque Angular Gauge (eBay) - 6
Laser Valve Spring Compressor (Local Motor Factors) - 40

Plus postage & packing on all the above items (approx. 30)...so around 530 in total so far.


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pimp
post 3rd April 2006 13:39
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I think you have coved every thing you need, but you don't need to replace the head bolts. As these are reuseable. there not strech bolts.


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F355
post 3rd April 2006 15:43
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ Apr 3 2006, 12:27 PM)
I do need to clean some of the other more dirty bits though before it all goes back together. I guess the best way to clean them is with gunk...or is there something better I can use?
*


Gunk will be near usless. You need a proper solvent cleaner like Acetone or Toulene.

The head bolts might aswell be changed for the sake of 23. The only thing I don't agree with on your list is the Selenia, I would stick with a brand you can pick up locally (not hellfrauds) because 50 on oil is crazy ohmy.gif
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