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> Changing The Clutch, on a Twin Spark engined car
mic
post 22nd February 2010 22:51
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Hi, my 146ti have done 150k and I am planning to get a new clutch for her. I just bought a GST brand clutch and I just wonder if anyone could provide me some descriptions and steps of changing the clutch. Cheers worshippy.gif
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GialloEvo94
post 23rd February 2010 00:17
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The best people on here to advise you on that are probably buellboy, Hybrd or langers who I all believe have done the job before. I'm sure they'll post something up when they see the thread.


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Hybrd
post 23rd February 2010 00:20
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GE, you forgot A4A laugh.gif

Is this your first clutch change? I only ask as there are basic things like making sure the clutch is allign properly etc.

Have a fish through the workshop manual for your varient in the manuals lounge, to list a step by step guide here would take ages TBH.

Its not a particularly dificult job but for a DIY mechanic on a set of axle stands it definatly worth looking through the guide in the manual first to familiarise yourself with the job in hand.

If you need help with a specific step post here and someone will help to sort it.

A good tip is to take some pics or draw a diagram of anything that needs to go back a certain way to save you hassle when putting it all back together.

You'll probably find the threads of the bolt holding the box to the block at the very front strip when you remove it, this is quite normal to be fair.

HTH


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alanthealfa
post 23rd February 2010 11:12
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QUOTE(mic @ 22nd February 2010 22:51) *
Hi, my 146ti have done 150k and I am planning to get a new clutch for her. I just bought a GST brand clutch and I just wonder if anyone could provide me some descriptions and steps of changing the clutch. Cheers worshippy.gif



hi there, think i've done 5 or 6 on my car so have learned form experience

working form the top, remove intake hose, throttle body, battery and battery tray, then the top two starter motor bolts, and finally clutch slave cylinder mounting bolts.

next jack it up as high as you can possibly get and set it on decent stands.

whip the front pipe and through to the cat off,

remove the rear engine mounting completely

undo the two steering rack bolts, then the wishbone pinch bolts on each hub and separate the lower ball joints.

next job is to drop the front subframe, theres1 large bolt at each front corner and 3 on each sid eat teh bottom of the bulkhead.

remove subframe.

disconnect the gear linkage and speedo cable, n/s drive shaft from the box, (leave the hub end alone).

remove the remaining bolt from the starter, you'll also need to remove the remainder of the rear engine mount and steady bar.

get the gearbox secured on a jack, and support the engine from above before you go any further

drain the box of oil

remove all the bell housing bolts, and finally the single bolt going to the n/s gearbox mounting.

split the box from the block and drop out.


clutch pressure plate is held on by i think 6 ribe bits, whip that off and clean up the flywheel.
using a alignment tool

no need to get expensive here, an undersized bar or boltwrapped with insulation tape to match the end of the crank and inside diamter of the drive plate is all thats needed.


fit the new clutch (opposite of removal)
install the new release bearing (if you havn't got one, go and get it now), i'd go for genuine, i;ve had the plastics fail on a couple of cheaper ones.

worth checkign the input oil seals and two output seals on the box

really the rest is a case of reverse of removal.

obviously fill the gearbox with oil.

you and a competent mate should get this done in 4-5 hrs on a drive, on a decent lift siginificantly less.

things to watch out for :

Bolts breaking in the steering rack
some of the subframe bolts can a right swine so be patient and don't get any cross threaded.
wishbone balljoint seals will likely split on removal, you can get replacements (if only i could remember the name of the place, somewhere in poole).

enjoy

ttfn
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GialloEvo94
post 23rd February 2010 11:29
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Good write up Alan thumbsup.gif I'll stick this thread in the FAQ's for future reference. For anyone in the UK, new replacement ball joint rubbers can be got from Alfashop in Norwich at 1.95 each + VAT.


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