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> Black Ph1 145 QV resuscitation
JeremyG
post 30th May 2018 08:51
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On the side skirts: being doing some research on polypropylene adhesives.

What makes PP great for body mouldings (inert; water resistant; high melting point - 160 degC) makes it bad for adhesive repairs.

Recommendations I've seen so far: either a hot glue method with a 200 degC gun and some specific PP adhesive; or a 2 part superglue kit from Loctite comprising an "activator" material applied to the PP surface first, followed by what seems to be regular cyanoacrylate superglue.

Has anyone tried either of these methods?

SteveG: you suggested sikaflex - what took you that route, and was it effective?

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 30th May 2018 08:52
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JeremyG
post 30th May 2018 09:09
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Over the weekend I fitted the replacement front caliper (more or less the same as original; ATE but with Bosch markings instead of Bendix).

Annoyingly, it too is binding - so I have now stripped the original caliper and replaced the piston and seals.

See pic below, ready for refitting:

Attached Image


Whilst switching calipers over the weekend, I noticed that the balljoint dustcover on that side had split.

I'm reluctant to replace the whole arm as the bushes all look OK - so does anyone know what size the dustcover is?

(There's no info on ePer on this.)

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 30th May 2018 10:42
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SteveG
post 30th May 2018 21:57
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 30th May 2018 09:51) *
SteveG: you suggested sikaflex - what took you that route, and was it effective?


Seemed to be ok in 'normal' use; if someone drives into it with enough force to dent the sill, then not all good. I was never 100% confident where the 'top' had split away from the side, and this is what broke again. Where the bottom split away and I glued an angle piece, it survived.

Interesting info on glueing PP; I did try solvent weld - no good
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JeremyG
post 13th June 2018 18:33
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Not a lot of progress in the last few weeks - fitted the original front brake caliper with the replacement piston and seals - it's still binding!

So this means the original caliper, the replacement s/h caliper, and the original caliper with replacement parts are all binding... annoying!

The car doesn't half stop well, regardless...way better than my Spider - which has identical brakes...

Just to try something new, I'm going to refit the replacement s/h caliper using the pads that came with it plus the slider pins and the fresh rubber grommets for the pins that came with the piston/seal kit. That way, everything will be different from the original setup.

I want to get it MoT tested to see what else needs doing aside from the floorpan repairs - but I'm not going to shoot myself in the foot with items that are obviously not right...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 13th June 2018 18:34
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dante giacosa
post 14th June 2018 13:42
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if it's binding, and you've gone that far, is it not a warped disc..?

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JeremyG
post 27th June 2018 11:15
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Well, despite my ongoing brake issues I decided to get the 145 in for an MoT today to see what else needs doing.

Pleasingly there were no major surprises. And the emissions were really good - 0.1% CO and just 19ppm HC!!!

Regarding the fails, I was expecting these:

- repair rust on floorpan o/s + n/s
- replace deteriorated dust covers on lower arm balljoints o/s + n/s
- rear tire fitted wrong way round (assymetric tread - so just need to swap with one from the other side of the car)

These are the unexpected fails:

- n/s headlamp low (and apparently with no further upward adjustment available)
- rust hole on rear outer sill, o/s (see below - the repair will be covered by the sill trim panel)

Attached Image


Plus some advisories - again none of these a surprise:

- surface rust on subframe and suspension components
- worn rear discs
- wrong rear exhaust rubber
- tyres close to legal limit
- chip on windscreen
- driver's seat mechanism worn
- play in n/s front inner steering rack joint
- front o/s brake binding

None of these are showstoppers so I'm getting quotes for the welding. Switching the rear tyres is easy, and I have some replacement dustcaps for the steering balljoints (the bushes are good, so I won't replace the lower arms unless I have to).

So, onwards!

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 27th June 2018 11:52
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JeremyG
post 27th June 2018 11:32
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 14th June 2018 14:42) *
if it's binding, and you've gone that far, is it not a warped disc..?


I hadn't considered that, tbh, because there is no shimmy or vibration through the brakes - even when hitting them really hard.

I'm running out of ideas as to how to fix this - having switched the pads, the caliper, the caliper pins and the caliper mounting bracket, the brake at that corner keeps on binding. Visually there is no obvious runout on the disc when rotating it by hand. And if, while the car has been standing for the last 8 years, some rusting process had pushed the disc so it's no longer flush with the hub flange then that would result in an obvious vibration, surely?

One odd thing I'd noticed is, it's very difficult to retract the piston with the caliper fitted (see my broken G-clamp pic previously for evidence of this). Yet, when I removed the caliper last time to swap it out, the piston pushed in very easily once the caliper was disconnected from the hydraulic line.

So - could this mean there is some kind of blocked valve preventing fluid from being pushed out of the caliper? If so, where would this be - in the ABS unit?

Thoughts, please!

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 27th June 2018 15:33
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dante giacosa
post 27th June 2018 16:06
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all classic stuff- that hole; just like mine (/yours) 146

do you think with regard to the vibration; it could be a wheel-bearing Jeremy...?

well done for confronting it all Dr G- another one saved
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JeremyG
post 27th June 2018 17:06
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 27th June 2018 17:06) *
do you think with regard to the vibration; it could be a wheel-bearing Jeremy...?


Well that's the thing - there isn't any vibration... the brakes work just fine, aside from the binding!

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 27th June 2018 12:15) *
None of these are showstoppers so I'm getting quotes for the welding.


Just got quoted 650 for the welding by the garage next to the MoT test station. That feels like too much... will get some more prices...
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VROOM
post 27th June 2018 19:57
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 27th June 2018 12:15) *
Well, despite my ongoing brake issues I decided to get the 145 in for an MoT today to see what else needs doing.

Pleasingly there were no major surprises. And the emissions were really good - 0.1% CO and just 19ppm HC!!!

Regarding the fails, I was expecting these:

- repair rust on floorpan o/s + n/s
- replace deteriorated dust covers on lower arm balljoints o/s + n/s
- rear tire fitted wrong way round (assymetric tread - so just need to swap with one from the other side of the car)

These are the unexpected fails:

- n/s headlamp low (and apparently with no further upward adjustment available)
- rust hole on rear outer sill, o/s (see below - the repair will be covered by the sill trim panel)

Attached Image


Plus some advisories - again none of these a surprise:

- surface rust on subframe and suspension components
- worn rear discs
- wrong rear exhaust rubber
- tyres close to legal limit
- chip on windscreen
- driver's seat mechanism worn
- play in n/s front inner steering rack joint
- front o/s brake binding

None of these are showstoppers so I'm getting quotes for the welding. Switching the rear tyres is easy, and I have some replacement dustcaps for the steering balljoints (the bushes are good, so I won't replace the lower arms unless I have to).

So, onwards!


I had those holes myself on both sides. I welded (first ever go at welding!) using a wire welder from Lidl. I figured that the sill covers would hide my messy work, but turned out ok in the end. Did the MOT tester remove the covers as I can't see how else they would have spotted them? Also, is that some sort of plastic cover underneath over the jacking point (looks like screw in the floor pan). I don't recognise anything like that on mine.
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dante giacosa
post 28th June 2018 07:27
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I don't see a plastic cover there, VROOM

I think it's just well undersealed & smooth at that point...

650 is okay I think for two or three different sites, all in one hit. See what you get as a comparison quote...

I was thinking about your headlamp- it's going to be worth taking that apart; that adjuster has obviously broken in-situ, preventing further travel on the lens, I would say.
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VROOM
post 28th June 2018 21:15
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 28th June 2018 08:27) *
I don't see a plastic cover there, VROOM

I think it's just well undersealed & smooth at that point...

650 is okay I think for two or three different sites, all in one hit. See what you get as a comparison quote...

I was thinking about your headlamp- it's going to be worth taking that apart; that adjuster has obviously broken in-situ, preventing further travel on the lens, I would say.


Can you see the screw with a washer next to the round hole? Isn't it holding a plastic guard or something? I've just checked mine and I don't have a screw there, just a second small hole in the jacking support.
I had to fix both my headlights following some instructions I found on this forum. Used some threaded bolts to replace the plastic adjusters with some wing nuts stuck to the end to replace the broken little gears.
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JeremyG
post 30th June 2018 10:47
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QUOTE(VROOM @ 27th June 2018 20:57) *
I had those holes myself on both sides. I welded (first ever go at welding!) using a wire welder from Lidl. I figured that the sill covers would hide my messy work, but turned out ok in the end. Did the MOT tester remove the covers as I can't see how else they would have spotted them? Also, is that some sort of plastic cover underneath over the jacking point (looks like screw in the floor pan). I don't recognise anything like that on mine.


I'd removed the sill covers myself - wanted to know what was lurking behind them; but that hole was the only issue.

Which plastic cover do you mean - not the white one (which is for one of the retaining screws for the sill trim panel)?


QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 28th June 2018 08:27) *
I don't see a plastic cover there, VROOM

I think it's just well undersealed & smooth at that point...

650 is okay I think for two or three different sites, all in one hit. See what you get as a comparison quote...

I was thinking about your headlamp- it's going to be worth taking that apart; that adjuster has obviously broken in-situ, preventing further travel on the lens, I would say.


On the welding quote - I got the distinct impression that the welder was not interested in the job and threw in a quote for a whole day's work just to put me off... maybe it's time to learn how to weld myself!

Headlamp - yes, I'll have to dis-assemble it to see what's what...

Gents - any thoughts on the way forward for my sticky front caliper?

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 30th June 2018 10:46
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VROOM
post 30th June 2018 19:30
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[quote name='JeremyG' date='30th June 2018 11:47' post='218651']
I'd removed the sill covers myself - wanted to know what was lurking behind them; but that hole was the only issue.

Which plastic cover do you mean - not the white one (which is for one of the retaining screws for the sill trim panel)?

I'm just intrigued as to what that is circled in read that seems to be held on with a screw as it doesn't look the same as mine and I;m wandering if I'm missing some trim from a floorpan.
Attached Image
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JeremyG
post 4th July 2018 15:11
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 27th June 2018 18:06) *
Just got quoted 650 for the welding by the garage next to the MoT test station. That feels like too much... will get some more prices...


Just got a second quote for welding from another local outfit - never used them, but they have a great reputation - for 250 + VAT for the two floorpan sections. This is for cutting out the rusty sections and replacing. So, booked in for next Friday...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 4th July 2018 15:12
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JeremyG
post 6th July 2018 11:26
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N/s headlight unit removed...

Attached Image


A little bit of rust treatment required where the grille fixes to the slam panel...

Attached Image


... and some stone chips on the grille can be touched up, too...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 6th July 2018 11:26
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JeremyG
post 5th August 2018 09:13
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After a couple of weeks away, I'm back on the 145.

Two jobs to get through:

1) Strip out the carpet and prepare for floorpan welding

2) Fix broken headlight adjusters

Stripping out the carpet was easier than I expected - you can do this without removing the lower dash:

Front seats, rear passenger air vents and centre console removed:

Attached Image


Rear seats out:

Attached Image


Remove sill trims around door, triangular trim pieces either side of the dashboard, and out comes the carpet:

Attached Image


Leaving this behind:

Attached Image


All the bits (bar the front seats) fit in the boot!

Attached Image


So now I'm getting to work stripping back the soundproofing and wire-brushing back to clean metal for the welders to do their work:

Attached Image


So now I have a couple of questions. The soundproofing on the floor of my car is comprised of two parts. On top is a plastic/rubber mat with fibrous sound insulation underneath it. On the front footwells, the plastic/rubber top surface has cracked (as per the picture above) and the fibrous material has disintegrated. However - it's easy enough to pick this all up for disposal. The rear footwell mat is fine and will be re-used as is.

Beneath the mat is a black, sticky bituminous layer approx 5mm thick. This is going to take some shifting - I've been levering it off in small chunks using a flat-bladed screwdriver but I'm hoping I won't need to remove it all prior to welding as it's heavy going.

So the questions:

1) What shall I use to replace the sound insulating "mat" in the front footwells, given it's not reusable? Any recommendations?

2) Any tips for removing the black, sticky lower layer? The guides on here don't have much advice beyond hacking it out...
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JeremyG
post 5th August 2018 09:42
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Headlight repairs - there are a ton of articles on this subject on this site, but here is my contribution.

Firstly - stripping down the headlights is easy; I used a wallpaper stripper to heat the mastic and separate the lens from the lamp body.

Attached Image


The steam also does a good job of cleaning the glass...

Attached Image


And this is my problem - both adjusters are broken.. with a kind of hip fracture thing...

Attached Image


So, what to do about this? Three options, I reckon:

1) Replace the adjusters
2) Repair the adjusters
3) Buy a new headlamp unit

1) Replace the adjusters... eBay has someone selling adjusters for the 145/146 for not a lot of money (8.99) so I bought a set.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-SET-ALFA-ROME...872.m2749.l2649

They don't have the vane along the back that is crucial to the correct alignment of the headlamp; also they're a little short. Close, but no cigar. Avoid!

Attached Image


I also found some 3D-printed adjusters that I've ordered and not yet received - a bit pricier at 30 euro.

2) Repair the adjusters... there have been a few posts on this subject, but given the specific damage to mine, I went looking for materials to replace the broken necks of my adjusters. Here's what I found:

Attached Image


These are 5mm diameter fluted dowels that fit neatly into the main body of the adjuster.

There is a small hole in the ball of the joint, so after a bit if whittling and sanding I ended up with these:

Attached Image


I then mixed up some epoxy resin to glue it all together:

Attached Image


Once it's set, I'll cut the broken stem off the ball and we should be good to go.

However, I'm doubtful this repair will be strong enough - we'll see.

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 6th August 2018 07:24
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145man
post 5th August 2018 10:19
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Hi

I used a fairly blunt chisel to remove the bitumen layer on mine, I removed it all but it is hard going. Once removed I primed and sprayed the floor for extra protection, then used the self adhesive sound pads to replace the bitumen. Heat the sound pads with a heat gun and they go in a treat.
I used felt and crumb rubber carpet underlay to replace the other stuff. Ive used this on several cars and again it works well.
Hope this is of use.
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SteveG
post 5th August 2018 22:23
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 5th August 2018 10:13) *
2) Any tips for removing the black, sticky lower layer? The guides on here don't have much advice beyond hacking it out...


Don't know how practical/possible for DIY use, but on one episode of Wheeler Dealers or maybe it was Car SOS, they use dry ice - kind of makes it brittle and yhen chip it out
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