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> Black Ph1 145 QV resuscitation
Muskie
post 28th August 2018 10:15
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Great thread and work JG. Just enjoyed reading through it all.
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JeremyG
post 28th August 2018 13:04
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 27th August 2018 09:22) *
okay; thanks for that

and thank you for going into such detail on the tooling

I've seen that link before; for wishbone removal- and am 'relatively' familiar with the wishbone separation from the hub carrier- (although I've never done it yet- or had detailed info like this from someone who has)- I was thinking more of the separation of the driveshaft from CV joint.

Have I misunderstood where this task is going..?

so, you are not describing the pinch bolt removal for the dampers here; are you talking about the wishbone removal from the subframe?

I 'thought' you were making reference to the joint separation on the driveshaft at the hub.
Could I ask you to post a picture of this Jeremy?


I'm talking about separating the lower arm from the hub - otherwise known as the steering swivel. I need to do this because the small rubber boots on both steering swivels have disintegrated.

I could replace the whole lower arm but the inboard bushes (where arm attaches to subframe) are all fine. Plus, this will be much less work and cost. Assuming the boots I've found are the correct size...

As it happens, I may need to remove the driveshaft from the hub on my Spider as the outer driveshaft boot on that one is leaking grease. Not sure if I can be bothered doing that myself - as per Ganz's post below, removing the hub nut takes a lot of leverage. Or an airgun.

QUOTE(Muskie @ 28th August 2018 11:15) *
Great thread and work JG. Just enjoyed reading through it all.


Thanks! Looking forward to getting it back on the road again. It's just taking way longer than I'd hoped!

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 28th August 2018 15:38
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JeremyG
post 28th August 2018 15:50
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QUOTE(Ganz @ 27th August 2018 21:44) *
Great job mate. Funny I had the same rust areas though not as extensive. I chipped away the bitumen sound proofing with a big blunt screw driver and a lump hammer. I replaced this bitumen after welding with dynamat matting. The other sound proofing tthat sits on top (the felt) I got rid of as it had cracked like a jigsaw. I replaced it with some floor matting from Woolies in Peterborough (they specialise in interior matting).
Keep up the good work. Great to see another 145 being rebuilt.


Thanks!

I was reading up on Dynamat a few weeks ago - sounds like good stuff. Was the floor matting rubber-backed felt underlay type stuff?

Jeremy
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langers
post 28th August 2018 20:23
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Oh the good old trick of bottom arm pinch bolt removal using a jack on a disc trick. Lay on ones side and *KICK* or a big lump hammer. I miss those days!

I love this thread, reminds me of so much. I have a shed load of pictures should anybody need any?


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'96 Purple 145 QV died from rust - '98 Blue Junior SOLD - '99 Red 145 QV 20VT SOLD - '97 145 QV Track Tart SOLD
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Ganz
post 28th August 2018 21:37
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 28th August 2018 16:50) *
Thanks!

I was reading up on Dynamat a few weeks ago - sounds like good stuff. Was the floor matting rubber-backed felt underlay type stuff?

Jeremy


The black floor matting from Woolies is a PVC backed felt underlay. Its sound proofing and easy to work with. I left what was the original rubber back stuff mostly the front parts near the bulkhead that seemed solid enough.

This post has been edited by Ganz: 28th August 2018 21:39


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dante giacosa
post 29th August 2018 11:29
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it looks totally right and better than the original stuff
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Ganz
post 30th August 2018 00:11
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 29th August 2018 12:29) *
it looks totally right and better than the original stuff


You're right. It still got the sound proofing. Woolies specialise in interiors so they wouldn't stock something that was pants. As much as I wanted to hang on to the rubberised stuff it was shot to bits.


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dante giacosa
post 30th August 2018 07:37
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Jeremy-

I've just reread this for the third day in a row, and I understand now!

So; you are taking the 15mm pinch-bolts from the damper attachment to the hub; am I right..?


is it not possible to separate the lower ball joint (which i read as 'CV joint') from the hub without undoing it from the damper? (obviously not) but why not..?
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JeremyG
post 30th August 2018 17:37
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 30th August 2018 08:37) *
Jeremy-

I've just reread this for the third day in a row, and I understand now!

So; you are taking the 15mm pinch-bolts from the damper attachment to the hub; am I right..?
is it not possible to separate the lower ball joint (which i read as 'CV joint') from the hub without undoing it from the damper? (obviously not) but why not..?


It is possible to separate the lower ball joint from the hub - thatís what Iím currently doing (or will do, now Iíve bought a new joint splitter).

No need to undo the pinch bolts holding the damper to the hub - but there is third pinch bolt holding the swivel in the hub.

Iíll take pictures...
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dante giacosa
post 30th August 2018 20:05
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okay- that would be very kind- my head is spinning...!

I thought I knew all about what was involved- but I seem to be in a dream world.


Let me ask you this- with regard to separating the lower ball joint itself from the hub; is 'one' fighting the rubber bushing between the two (with the joint splitter)?

Is it the rubber 'bushing' that holds the two together; or is there a degree of mechanical interference? If the rubber wasn't there (let's say)- would the joint fall out?
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JeremyG
post 31st August 2018 10:08
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 30th August 2018 21:05) *
okay- that would be very kind- my head is spinning...!

I thought I knew all about what was involved- but I seem to be in a dream world.
Let me ask you this- with regard to separating the lower ball joint itself from the hub; is 'one' fighting the rubber bushing between the two (with the joint splitter)?

Is it the rubber 'bushing' that holds the two together; or is there a degree of mechanical interference? If the rubber wasn't there (let's say)- would the joint fall out?


The rubber dust seal is just that - it protects the joint, keeping the grease in and the elements out. It does not play any part in keeping the joint together - that is done by the retaining bolt.

See pics below:

The joint, with the retaining bolt removed. I've also jacked up the hub and undone the ARB drop link nut to allow the suspension arm to drop away from the hub:

Attached Image


Using the splitter to separate hub from steering swivel pin:

Attached Image


Both parts separated:

Attached Image


... and the split rubber dust seal = MoT fail:

Attached Image


I have some replacement seals which look to be the correct size. So I need to clean and grease everything, and reassemble. Then do the same on the other side...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 31st August 2018 10:12
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JeremyG
post 31st August 2018 11:21
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QUOTE(Ganz @ 28th August 2018 22:37) *
The black floor matting from Woolies is a PVC backed felt underlay. Its sound proofing and easy to work with. I left what was the original rubber back stuff mostly the front parts near the bulkhead that seemed solid enough.


Do you have a link or some product details you can share for the underlay?
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JeremyG
post 2nd September 2018 09:03
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Fitted both ball joint dust seals yesterday - and switched around a couple of wheels to tick off another MoT fail - one tyre had been fitted on the wrong side of the car (so incorrect direction of rotation mad.gif).

The replacement dust seals were a perfect fit - Boot no. 4 available here for anyone interested: https://www.balljointboots.co.uk/index.html

Here's a picture of the new dust seal in place (I used the top spring clip from the old boot - but the supplied nylon fasteners around the bottom)

Attached Image


... and refitted, with the new retaining bolt:

Attached Image


So, job done - and ready for welding on Tuesday!

... except... the eagle-eyed amongst you will have spotted that in the photos above, the hub is hanging outboard of its normal position. This is because in separating the steering ball joint, I managed to pull the driveshaft out of the diff. No big drama, as it went back in again, but it involved removing the undertray (or what remains of it) and the wheel arch inspection panel to get a clear sight of the diff casing.

However - on refitting the undertray, and having finished reassembling the suspension, I discovered a spring clip sitting there that looks as though it came from the driveshaft. It was very shiny and clean - so had obviously not been there long at all.

I'm not worried about the shaft falling out, as there isn't room for this to happen - but does anyone know if there should be a spring clip on the driveshaft that locates it in the diff? I can't see any mention of this in the manuals.

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 2nd September 2018 09:07
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JeremyG
post 2nd September 2018 12:00
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QUOTE(Harpo @ 21st August 2018 13:19) *
Iíve only just caught up with this thread.
8 years off the road? Do you know why it was taken off in the first place Jeremy?
Itís very interesting and inspiring to read what you have achieved. Well done!
I didnít see if and how you sorted out the binding brake. If itís still not fixed then I would like to suggest that it could be the brake hose causing the binding. If the hose is breaking down internally then all the gunge can act as a block to the fluid.


Harpo - top marks and many thanks to you - I've just road tested the car having replaced the brake hose to that caliper, and bingo, the binding is now cured!
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dante giacosa
post 4th September 2018 13:31
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thanks for going into detail over this, Jeremy- awe inspiring progress...

great news on that brake binding issue also...

where did you source the replacement pinch bolt and nut for the ball joint pinch bolt..?

Has it gone off for welding today? Any idea of a timescale..?
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JeremyG
post 4th September 2018 17:30
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Just got the car back from the welders, and I'm well pleased with the results.

They've cut out the rusty sections and fabricated new panels to match the corrugations in the floorpan, like so:

Offside before:

Attached Image


Offside after:

Attached Image


Nearside before:

Attached Image


Nearside after:

Attached Image


... and all for £250 plus VAT. Amazing!

Just a couple more things to fettle in the next few days, then it'll be time for the MoT re-test.

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 4th September 2018 17:34
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JeremyG
post 4th September 2018 18:00
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 4th September 2018 14:31) *
thanks for going into detail over this, Jeremy- awe inspiring progress...

great news on that brake binding issue also...

where did you source the replacement pinch bolt and nut for the ball joint pinch bolt..?

Has it gone off for welding today? Any idea of a timescale..?


Pinch bolt and nut were from Partsworld UK - I listed the part numbers above... though they are probably still available from dealers

QUOTE(Ganz @ 28th August 2018 22:37) *
The black floor matting from Woolies is a PVC backed felt underlay. Its sound proofing and easy to work with. I left what was the original rubber back stuff mostly the front parts near the bulkhead that seemed solid enough.


Was this the stuff you used, Ganz?

https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1384...-deadening-felt


This post has been edited by JeremyG: 4th September 2018 18:00
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dante giacosa
post 4th September 2018 23:06
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Oh, sorry- I completely missed that- AND I looked!

Terrific result- better than OE! Are you going to underseal the underside now, at those points..?


Could this one be a keeper...?!'
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JeremyG
post 10th September 2018 07:24
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 5th September 2018 00:06) *
Oh, sorry- I completely missed that- AND I looked!

Terrific result- better than OE! Are you going to underseal the underside now, at those points..?
Could this one be a keeper...?!'


Yes, underseal was applied by the welders.

Yes, it could be a keeper!
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JeremyG
post 10th September 2018 07:34
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Unfortunately my headlamp repair hasn't worked - the repairs to the plastic adjuster pieces have held out fine, but the adjusters themselves have now broken somewhere else. I get the picture - they're just too brittle to be repairable - which leaves me to either fabricate a new adjuster, or buy a new headlamp unit. I'm thinking that one over at the moment...

In the meantime, yesterday I got to work on the floorpan.

I cut out the newly-arrived felt underlay to fit the front footwells (I even had enough left over to fit some underlay under the rear seat). I also painted over the remaining bare metal in the front footwells with Hammerite.

The original underlay mat for the rear footwell is fine and can be re-used. Before I re-fitted it, I chipped away at the bitumen sealant around one of the drain holes, as it had risen slightly. Boy, am I glad I did - as there was rust forming around the hole. I uncovered the others and found the same on 7 of the 10 drain holes. Yikes!

Attached Image

Attached Image


So, I wire-brushed them all back to bare metal; treated the remaining rust with Dinitrol RC900; then overpainted with Hammerite. When I can get under the car, I'll also treat them from below.

I can't help feeling I've dodged a bullet there; visually the drain holes all looked OK, from above and below...

And I should probably do the same for the front row of drain holes...

Anyway, having done that, and given I had the front seats out of the car, I thought I'd remove the height adjuster from the driver's seat as per these instructions.

That turned out to be a bit of a mission - as one of the the bolts holding the runners onto the adjuster mechanism had seized and had to be drilled out. And it took a while to figure out how to lever the fabric cover from the seat base. But I've reattached the rails to the now lowered seat and test fitted in the car - it's definitely a better height.

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 10th September 2018 08:12
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