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> Alfa 145 1.3 Boxer and 145 2.0 TS QV, My two Alfa Romeo 145 project cars
Typpi
post 13th March 2021 14:38
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Hello to you all and greetings from Finland!
I've come into possession of two Alfa Romeo 145's, first one I got is an early 1994 1.3 boxer and the 2nd one is a 04/1998 2.0 TS QV.
These cars were never officially imported to Finland by a retailer. Only ones here are brought by private individuals from abroad. My 1994 boxer is imported in 2010 from Italy and the 1998 QV was brought in 2006 from Germany.
That's only a good thing since Finland is a northern country and we use quite a lot of salt for the main roads during winter time. Either of the cars hasn't seen much winter driving so they are relatively rust free. Some minor cleaning and painting is still required to stop the rusting getting any worse, but that's just normal for car of this age smile.gif
The boxer Alfa I reconditioned to road worthy use last year and I drove almost five thousand kilometers with it last summer. Only "real issue" with it, is that it likes to "tick" at certain rpm ranges, doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. My thinking is that it's one or more of the lifters that's gone bad over the years. Haven't given it too much thought since it drives good and doesn't seem to affect anything. Local Alfa specialist workshop just told me to "drive it if it doesn't get any worse", so that's exactly what I'm going to do whistle.gif

The 2.0 TS QV is a completely different story... laugh.gif It had been sitting in a warm garage for past 14 years. Originally it was put into storage for airbag light not turning off, that's a MOT failure in Finland. After some time the owner passed away and his son got the possession of the car. Son was more of a motorbike guy and after few years decided to sell the car for someone who would fix it and enjoy it more than him. That's where I come in to this story biggrin.gif

After sitting for 14 years the car started fine but ran very rough. First thing after getting it off the trailer to my yard, I replaced the timing belt with tensioner and idlers, aux belt with tensioner and idlers, replaced the intake pipe between MAF and intake manifold, replaced the brake pads all around the car, cleaned and lubricated the brakes, replaced brake fluid and replaced the front wishbones.
Then came the time to get the MOT in order to get the car road legal. First MOT was a failure due to too high emissions, idle was fine but at 2k rpm lambda was 1.12 and HC was over 150 units. After fitting a new lambda sensor I was running the car on my yard and after 15minutes of idling the alternator decided to release it's operating smoke rant.gif
I found the thread on this forum how to replace the alternator from top of the engine. Followed those superb instructions and got it done in 2 afternoons, thanks for the great advice!
A new recheck of the emissions for the MOT and... It passed without any notices! worshippy.gif

The car drove really good, engine pulled really nicely with all of it's power and the icy roads didn't stand a chance of me not conquering them coolio.gif
Until... after 20km of driving the clutch pressure set or the release bearing decided to kick the can rant.gif
Oh well, I'm not too angry or disappointed with it biggrin.gif These are just the things that can happen when car isn't used at all in 14 years. Now I'll have the joy of dropping the subframe and gearbox to replace the clutch pack and main seals for the cranksaft.
The good thing is that the clutch broke down when I was going to a friends place who has a grease pit and big hall to fix the car in. At least I won't have to fix the car outside in the snow like I did when the alternator broke laugh.gif

Here's a few pics of my cars:
Boxer:




2.0 TS QV:




This post has been edited by Typpi: 13th March 2021 14:41
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dante giacosa
post 13th March 2021 15:46
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Scotland (and the rest of the U.K.) accept your greetings!

And wish you well, in-return!!

Welcome aboard, Typpi-

Wow, this is a lot to take in! You must have very good mechanical ability, to take on the Alternator job, first thing!

Is the airbag light, still outstanding ??
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Typpi
post 13th March 2021 16:43
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Driving: Alfa 145 1.4ie & Alfa 145 2.0 QV
From: Finland



QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 13th March 2021 19:46) *
Scotland (and the rest of the U.K.) accept your greetings!

And wish you well, in-return!!

Welcome aboard, Typpi-

Wow, this is a lot to take in! You must have very good mechanical ability, to take on the Alternator job, first thing!

Is the airbag light, still outstanding ??


Hi, and thanks!

I didn't say anything about the airbag, sorry for that smile.gif I managed to find a working TRW unit through ebay from Spanish wrecker. That was a simple bolt on fix. The old unit just returned a code for "01 - Control unit faulty". Previous owner said that it stopped working after giving the car a jump start. I found several threads all over the internet for Fiats and Alfas that had gotten the same issue after jump starting. Price wasn't too bad for the box, 35 euros shipped to Finland. I also put a search notice for similar boxes to buy 1 or 2 as spares when the price is right.

I'm quite handy in fixing things. I can do quite a lot of things from welding to electronics.

Here's the whole albums for both of the cars smile.gif
2.0 TS QV
1.3 Boxer
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Ganz
post 14th March 2021 23:45
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Welcome to the forum - I echo Dante's sentiments - no messin' about - cambelt change and alternator first few jobs worshippy.gif

Great pics coolio.gif

This post has been edited by Ganz: 14th March 2021 23:50


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dante giacosa
post 15th March 2021 06:47
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that's really interesting, Typpi-

The high-level steering-rack track-rod-end under the arch of the 'boxer, really threw me off!

That airbag fix sounds about right- I recently did exactly the same thing on another car from the same era, with the same airbag module.

I was being warned through; that 'potentially' there is a risk when powering the new module up- you have to have it bolted-down, rather than floating about (just to quickly check whether it will extinguish the warning light) as if the module sees itself sideways or inverted; it will assume the car has rolled over; and immediately deploy the airbags...

I'm not 100% sure if that's true...

Are you able to store the cars indoors now? Are you still expecting snow!!?
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Typpi
post 15th March 2021 07:23
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 15th March 2021 10:47) *
that's really interesting, Typpi-

The high-level steering-rack track-rod-end under the arch of the 'boxer, really threw me off!

That airbag fix sounds about right- I recently did exactly the same thing on another car from the same era, with the same airbag module.

I was being warned through; that 'potentially' there is a risk when powering the new module up- you have to have it bolted-down, rather than floating about (just to quickly check whether it will extinguish the warning light) as if the module sees itself sideways or inverted; it will assume the car has rolled over; and immediately deploy the airbags...

I'm not 100% sure if that's true...

Are you able to store the cars indoors now? Are you still expecting snow!!?


Yes the steering rack/rod is quite different to any car I've previously seen. Apparently there isn't too many cars with rod-ends attached to the strut tower. I've seen some american trucks with similar setup. Maybe other boxer cars have it too? Alfasud, 33? Any of the subarus?

What you've heard about the airbag box is quite true, here's a short video from scanner danner who did just that Loose airbag unit whistle.gif

I don't have an indoors place for the cars yet. I just got some trees fell from my front yard for some parking space. I already talked with a land construction company that they would come in late April and rip the stumps off the ground and then lay and compact some gravel to that area. After it's done I'll set up a heavy duty tarp garage for winter storage of the cars smile.gif

Hopefully the snowing is over for this winter. Last friday we got an additional 5cm of snow, as of now half of it has already melted coolio.gif

This post has been edited by Typpi: 15th March 2021 07:25
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dante giacosa
post 17th March 2021 21:33
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That's fairly sobering about the airbag, then!

Lucky I've taken that risk seriously, in the past!

Yes; It's probably not the snow itself that's the problem; it's driving on what is used to dissapate it...



This post has been edited by dante giacosa: 17th March 2021 21:41
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Typpi
post 18th March 2021 19:00
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Alright, almost halfway done with the clutch replacement rolleyes.gif Only missing the new parts atm.
I'll just make most of the waiting time by cleaning the things and drilling out few bolts that snapped during disassembly.

Floor pan of the car is in quite good condition, only one spot where there's "acute" need for fixing.




I didn't remove the exhaust completely. Just unbolted it enough to get it out of the way. The bolts for the cat were welded on both sides of the flange? Does anyone know why this was done? To make stealing it a bit harder? Something else, what?

I supported the left side of the engine from thermostat housing. I was thinking for a while if this was a good idea or not but ultimately decided to do it. I didn't figure any better way and was reasoning that it's quite gradual loading when lowering the gearbox/engine mount. So far so good!



Here's the pile of parts that was taken out of the car . Even tho I live in Finland, the snow plow wasn't fitted to the car biggrin.gif



The flywheel was in good condition, no need for anything else than a good wipe. Originally I planned to take that out as well and replace the crankshaft main seal. But then I figured that since it hasn't leaked a bit, I won't do anything with it this time. I'm sure this will bite me in the ass at some point... But we'll cross that bridge when it happens whistle.gif



The reason for the clutch not functioning was quite obvious after taking it apart. One of the springs had snapped and wedged itself between the clutch plate and flywheel bolts.
The clutch plate was quite worn, I don't think it would have survived another 140 thousand kilometers. It wasn't too horrible tho.



I'll just use the waiting time to fix the rust from the floor pan and subframe. Hopefully the parts get here early next week so I could finally start enjoying it coolio.gif
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Ganz
post 20th March 2021 22:56
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Good work coolio.gif


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dante giacosa
post 21st March 2021 09:53
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Serious work, Typpi-

Brave technique with the thermostat 'suspension'! Have you got some additional timber in place underneath, to take the strain off in the meantime, before re-assembly?

Fascinating the see the 1.3 head & plastic cover in-shot there; it's not an engine that was available over here.

You might be missing a plastic cover off those relays in front of the battery..


P.S. I can only get two of your pictures to load; my iPad has a bit of a problem formatting the page on your thread, as the pictures are massive. I can see the underside image, and the engine suspended from the thermostat, and that's it...
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Typpi
post 21st March 2021 18:24
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From: Finland



QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 21st March 2021 13:53) *
Serious work, Typpi-

Brave technique with the thermostat 'suspension'! Have you got some additional timber in place underneath, to take the strain off in the meantime, before re-assembly?

Fascinating the see the 1.3 head & plastic cover in-shot there; it's not an engine that was available over here.

You might be missing a plastic cover off those relays in front of the battery..
P.S. I can only get two of your pictures to load; my iPad has a bit of a problem formatting the page on your thread, as the pictures are massive. I can see the underside image, and the engine suspended from the thermostat, and that's it...


Can you open the imgur link in starting post? That should open the imgur gallery with all the photos for both cars smile.gif
No I didn't put any extra support under the engine now. I've checked it few times now and it isn't leaking any fluid so hopefully it stays like that... I tried lifting the engine from below and I would estimate it's only 5-10kg of force to lift it. So I don't think it's going to cause too much trouble later on smile.gif
Yes I think I'm missing the cover for relays and next to battery also. Someone must have lost them at some point. It's always like that when you have pre owned car with unknown history. Apparantly it had some subwoofer/amp installed when it was still in Germany. So that might explain some things missing, younger people aren't too concerned with such "unimportant purely cosmetic things" whistle.gif
I was planning on 3D-printing a new cover for those relays. Let's see how that goes.

Here's some updates from today:

I cleaned some parts today. Subframe was cleaned with steel strand disc (whatever it is in english, not too sure) in an angle grinder. Then I cleaned it with brake cleaner, painted 2 coats of zinc and 2 coats of black paint. Looks pretty smart now. The condition was actually quite good, only minor surface rust here and there. Nothing major. After I get it fitted to the car, I was planning on putting some corrosion protection stuff to the box sections. After that it will survive longer than rest of the car smile.gif

For the floor pan I did the same, cleaning, 2 coats of zinc, 2 coats of black paint and additional layer of good thick underbody mass (dinitrol/annitrol).





Battery tray got the same treatment as subframe.



I cleaned all the bolts with steel bristle drill thing.



Now everything is ready for the new parts to arrive. Hopefully this week so I can get the car on the road coolio.gif

This post has been edited by Typpi: 21st March 2021 18:35
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Typpi
post 28th March 2021 08:14
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I managed to fix the car yesterday worshippy.gif
The parts came on friday and everything I ordered was in the package. Only thing was that... rant.gif release bearing was broken inside the clutch package rant.gif


The package didn't have any packagin material inside so the pressure plate must have mauled the release bearings plasticcy hook to pieces...

Luckily I found one locally for a reasonable price so I could start working on the car smile.gif

Everything went smooth, smoother than expected actually.
At one point I thought I had lost 2 bolts, 1 about 45-60mm in length and 1 about 100-120mm long. No biggie, I replaced those with some new ones and work continued.
After everything was assembled back together I still had 2 140mm long bolts left... Where in the world are those missing from... biggrin.gif

Currently I'm convincing myself that the net amount of bolts is 0, since there's 2 extra and I added 2... biggrin.gif
I'll definitely have to check those bolts at some point, maybe they will find their places later.

Car runs and drives fine now, clutch works, gears shift much smoother (thanks to the new gear oil) and nothing seems out of ordinary. No clunks, looseness or anything else worrying happening with the car smile.gif

Now I can finally start enjoying the car coolio.gif
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dante giacosa
post 28th March 2021 08:42
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hey Typpi-

That's amazing!

You did reassembly in one shift ?!!

Yes; the left-over bolt mystery is a classic isn't it?! I keep thinking the only way to accurately keep track, (as well as labelling every part in a bag) is to film yourself continuously working- but that seems ridiculous

Too bad about the clutch release bearing; brilliant to have sourced it locally after all

I wish I could hear the sound of the 1.3

Did you refit the original exhaust...?

Can you show us the Zinc product you used on the undertray, please..?


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peruna
post 28th March 2021 12:45
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 28th March 2021 08:42) *
hey Typpi-

That's amazing!

You did reassembly in one shift ?!!

Yes; the left-over bolt mystery is a classic isn't it?! I keep thinking the only way to accurately keep track, (as well as labelling every part in a bag) is to film yourself continuously working- but that seems ridiculous

Too bad about the clutch release bearing; brilliant to have sourced it locally after all

I wish I could hear the sound of the 1.3

Did you refit the original exhaust...?

Can you show us the Zinc product you used on the undertray, please..?


I used zinc primer with zinc flakes. There's apparently 2 types of zinc in such paints. In ball- and flake form. Flake should be better at protecting from rust since it has more uniform structure and better surface area contacting the base metal. I bought my zinc from local shop for 6/can, this seems like comparable product https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rostio-professiona...d=1616935209474

Yes I managed to do it in one shift. I started at 10am and finished at 6pm, I had a helper for the first 5 hrs to fit the gearbox and subframe back to the car. After that 4hrs of fitting rest of the things and double checking tightness of bolts.

I'll start up the boxer at some point and I'll take a sound sample for anyone interested whistle.gif
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Typpi
post 28th March 2021 13:00
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And apparently I've created a profile earlier on and managed to post with that on my phone blush.gif
Sorry for creating confusion unsure.gif
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Typpi
post 31st March 2021 17:34
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From: Finland



I got some "new" alloys for the 145 QV. Those are 14" Fiat brava alloys. For the money I paid for those they are perfect for the car biggrin.gif I paid the seller 20€ for set of 4 rims.


Of course the center emblems were from FIAT, that won't do with an Alfa. So I fired up my PC and Fusion 360. I made a 3D-model for the center caps and googled a vector image of Alfa romeo emblem. I had to massage the resulting vector from here and there to be able to emboss it to my 3D model.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4812730
In the end I'm quite happy with the result:


I printed 4 caps with PLA-plastic and used black permanent marker to color the raised bits. It turned out great for the first version.


I'm planning on getting some PETG for the printer and use that in the future. I'm suspecting the PLA ones to disintegrate in 1 or 2 summers tops. PETG should handle the UV and outside conditions much much better than PLA.

I also went to a friends place and got the QV's AC working.
There was minor pressure still in the system, so it wasn't completely in ambient pressure. We sucked a vacuum and let the pump run for an hour. Then we turned of the pump and waited for 30mins if the vacuum level would change, it didn't. We then proceeded to fill the system with 700g of R134a, turned the motor on and AC to max cold. It works now!
I just said to my friend that (fingers crossed, knocking on wood) "maybe once it could be this easy" biggrin.gif

Now there's no extra sweatiness happening behind the wheel even during the hottest of summer days coolio.gif

This post has been edited by Typpi: 31st March 2021 17:43
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dante giacosa
post 5th April 2021 10:43
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good heavens, Typpi-

I think you deserve a forum by yourself!! Plus your alter ego; Peruna!

You've achieved things others have only dreamed of, in a matter of weeks!

Don't be surprised if a load of people want to bite-your-hands-off for those 3D printed centre caps; they're fantastic! What would you want for a set of four?

I'm surprised you could get the A/C to operate; I'm sure there's a residual-operational-functionality within the UK versions, where the system has to see over 10 degrees ambient temperature, before it'll engage the compressor. Lucky you have a friend with all the gear!


I am VERY interested in the sound of the Boxer; that's 'my' area really (sound).
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Typpi
post 6th April 2021 05:58
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 5th April 2021 13:43) *
good heavens, Typpi-

I think you deserve a forum by yourself!! Plus your alter ego; Peruna!

You've achieved things others have only dreamed of, in a matter of weeks!

Don't be surprised if a load of people want to bite-your-hands-off for those 3D printed centre caps; they're fantastic! What would you want for a set of four?

I'm surprised you could get the A/C to operate; I'm sure there's a residual-operational-functionality within the UK versions, where the system has to see over 10 degrees ambient temperature, before it'll engage the compressor. Lucky you have a friend with all the gear!
I am VERY interested in the sound of the Boxer; that's 'my' area really (sound).


Thanks for the support and interest!
The printing costs for the center caps is only like 1,2 and printing time like 2hrs with my setup. I could make them and send them but the postal fees alone would be like 10-15. It's stupid expensive to send anything abroad right now. The .stl files are in the thingiverse link I provided earlier, if your local library or hackerspace has a 3D-printer it would make most sense to try and use those for printing smile.gif

Yes the AC-has a temp switch but luckily we had 12C outside temps that day. AC is still working, it didn't engage properly a few times. Some loose crap and rust between the clutch and pulley face prevented the clutch from properly engaging. I squirted some brakecleaner to it and used a cloth to wipe it clean. Now it's working properly every time.

I was driving on a motorway for 25km at ~125km/h and the engine temps rose slightly. The temperature gauge was showing 100C when normally in city and 100km/h or less it's like glued to 90. After few minutes at 100km/h speed limit the temps were back to normal 90C again. I'll have to monitor that when outside temps raise again. Worst case scenario is that I'll have to replace the radiator. The current one is missing about 1/5th of its fins from lower right corner so almost time for replacement anyway...

I had a small mishap with the wheels tho... Of course I didn't check what size wheels were in the QV. I got those 14" alloys with new tires and when putting them under the car I noticed them being too small rant.gif
Luckily a friend has a tire shop and we made a swap for the alloys+tires for him to put 185/65/R15 tires to my existing steel rims. Original size would have been 195/55/R15 but the 185/65/R15's also fit under the car. A bit more comfort from the higher tire wall but somewhat worse cornering performance also. Well, I'm not planning on taking this thing to a track anytime soon so the most important thing is being able to drive it daily on the road now coolio.gif
And of course now that the tire diameter is higher overall the error in speedometer is basically 0. When driving under 60km/h the difference is 2-3km/h and at 100km/h+ it's basically 0.


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dante giacosa
post 10th April 2021 09:57
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Hey Typpi-

I totally admire that you aspire to get the correct tyre-sidewall profile to keep the speedometer accurate.

I know a lot of guys in the Coupe community who deliberately fit giant wheels to their cars, and then bemoan that the speedo and odometer are completely off!
Personally; I wouldn't want to upset the suspension geometry, and so would do anything to keep it standard.

Plus of course, as you have identified, ride quality suffers with a lower-profile. I wish I had your friends to do a tyre swap!

Great news on the A/C; I'm totally jealous.


When you swapped the coolant; did you close all the vent-points sequentially? You don't think you've maybe got an air pockets somewhere..?
Seems a bit early in the year, for overheating issues...?
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Typpi
post 13th April 2021 16:39
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I removed the door card from the boxer in order to remove the lock cylinder. I wanted to finish the lock cylinder replacement project I started earlier. I was missing some measurements since the old plastic outer cylinder was broken.



The lock cylinder snaps nicely into place and moves freely inside the outer shell. The problem I encountered was that the small pegs on bottom of the outer shell are too small. When printed in PLA-plastic, the 3mm x 2mm x 4,5mm sized triangle like pegs rip out of the bottom wall. They simply rip out from the lower extrusion layer.
I then tried replacing the pegs with 2,5mm holes and installed M3 bolts through the bottom surface. That solution easily holds those forces. The next issue came from the lock cylinder pegs being also triangle shaped and when pushing a circle with a triangle it also wants to move sideways at the same time. This meant that the lock cylinder would jam against the outer shell and that caused way too much friction for operating the mechanism.





I guess I'll forfeit the idea of 3D-printing the replacement outer shells for now. And I won't be fixing the mechanical locks at all, just install them as dummies to the door so there won't be an empty hole.
I ordered a 3rd party remote central locking kit from ebay. The boxer already has an central locking without remote so installing an aftermarket remote kit shouldn't be anymore difficult than attaching 3 wires smile.gif

The MOT for the boxer is also closing in at late April. I'll have to get a new key for it before that. Currently I only have 1 key to start the car and it can be removed from the ignition when car is running. That's an instant failure in Finnish MOT system.
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- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 20 Apr 2021 16:29