IPB

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> ECU codes on 1996 CF1 146 TI
TheOneAnt
post 26th January 2017 09:11
Post #1 | Print


1.3 8v
*

Group: New Member
Posts: 5
Joined: 4th October 2016
Local Time: 24th October 2017 09:47
From: Pretoria, South Africa
Member No.: 12,853
Driving: 1996 146 ti CF1
From: South Africa



Hi Guys,

I have recently rebuilt a 1996 146 TI. I bought a cable set to communicate with ECU as the Injection Light goes off after starting the engine but comes back on after a few seconds.

I cleared existing codes with AlfaOBD and then restarted engine but same situation.

This is the errors I get:
Reading faults for: Injection Bosch Motronic M2.10.3 (eng. 2.0 TS 16v)
___________________
Faults reported:

2017/01/13 17:41:45
Fault code N1:
Knock sensor 1
Signal not feasible
Engine speed: 160.00 rpm
Water temperature: 49.27 C
Error counter: 10
Fault present
Fault code N2:
Phase sensor
Short circuit to + battery/Open circuit
Engine speed: 1080.00 rpm
Engine load: 2.05 msec
Error counter: 11
Fault present
__________________

The car seems to be running fine and idle perfectly, my question is : Can I ignore these problems for now because the engine seems to be running fine? Or can these faults cause problems?

Kind Regards

Edit: I have checked connectors - no corrosion visible and I cleaned them with electrical contact cleaner to be safe.

This post has been edited by TheOneAnt: 26th January 2017 09:14
Go to the top of the page
View Vehicles
+Quote Post
buellboy
post 28th January 2017 09:58
Post #2 | Print


1.7 16v
*****

Group: Veteran
Posts: 2,434
Joined: 11th July 2008
Local Time: 24th October 2017 07:47
From: London
Member No.: 3,211
Driving: '96 145 QV (alfie) featured in C&S mag, '99 GTV 3.0 V6 Six speed Aereo (bussolina)
From: London



In ECUs, in general, the phase sensor is used to time the sequential injection. Without this, the car will run in batch mode, i.e each cylinder gets a squirt of fuel instead of the cylinders that need it.

This means that you will experience worst fuel economy and may possible detonation from the extra fuel (in certain scenarios) with also a bigger wear on the cat and possible bore wash. I.e your car will most likely run rich.

Furthermore, IIRC (and forgive me but I haven't touched these cars in 5+ years), the car may run in limp mode which will reduce power and, in the best scenario, the car may run in open loop mode. Open loop is a base map mode to get the car started, when the car gets hot, it then starts reading from the oxygen sensor to try and trim the fuel to get it to correct stoichiometric values.

I don't remember if limp mode is effectively open loop mode or if limp home mode has even a more conservative map with a redline limiter.

Best advice for this is to check the Black Box Of bo***x which, IIRC, is situated near the battery - search the forum for BBOB, there are plenty of threads about it. Then start checking the wiring. The phase sensor requires the cambelt to be taken off so it is a bit of a pita, better make sure you know it is the phase sensor.


--------------------
Go to the top of the page
View Vehicles
+Quote Post
TheOneAnt
post 21st February 2017 15:20
Post #3 | Print


1.3 8v
*

Group: New Member
Posts: 5
Joined: 4th October 2016
Local Time: 24th October 2017 09:47
From: Pretoria, South Africa
Member No.: 12,853
Driving: 1996 146 ti CF1
From: South Africa



QUOTE(buellboy @ 28th January 2017 11:58) *
In ECUs, in general, the phase sensor is used to time the sequential injection. Without this, the car will run in batch mode, i.e each cylinder gets a squirt of fuel instead of the cylinders that need it.

This means that you will experience worst fuel economy and may possible detonation from the extra fuel (in certain scenarios) with also a bigger wear on the cat and possible bore wash. I.e your car will most likely run rich.

Furthermore, IIRC (and forgive me but I haven't touched these cars in 5+ years), the car may run in limp mode which will reduce power and, in the best scenario, the car may run in open loop mode. Open loop is a base map mode to get the car started, when the car gets hot, it then starts reading from the oxygen sensor to try and trim the fuel to get it to correct stoichiometric values.

I don't remember if limp mode is effectively open loop mode or if limp home mode has even a more conservative map with a redline limiter.

Best advice for this is to check the Black Box Of bo***x which, IIRC, is situated near the battery - search the forum for BBOB, there are plenty of threads about it. Then start checking the wiring. The phase sensor requires the cambelt to be taken off so it is a bit of a pita, better make sure you know it is the phase sensor.


Thank you for you reply.

I have checked wiring and found no apparent chafing or problems, we live in an area with low rainfall (inland) so no corrosion problems. What I have found is that there is 12V ( 13.5V with car running) on Pin 2 of the connector to phase sensor. Pin 2 is the signal wire and apparently should only read 5V when not running but key in ON position. Pin1 = 5V and Pin3 = Ground. I then checked diagrams and apparently signal wire runs to Pin 8 on ECU. I have no way of back probing the main ECU plug, so I then cut the signal wire to phase sensor off with a bit to spare to fix afterwards. Measured the voltage coming from pin 8 near ECU and still found the battery voltage reading of 12V.

And after making the cut on signal wire there is 0volt reading at harness plug.So initially I thought that there might be a short on wire but now I am thinking there might be a problem with the ECU itself.

I am quite stumped now , and don't want to fork out money for a new sensor only to find the problem still remains. ECU swap out apparently is also a big headache because of AlfaCodeECU that is married to main ECU.

This post has been edited by TheOneAnt: 21st February 2017 17:08
Go to the top of the page
View Vehicles
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 24 Oct 2017 07:47