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> Diy Cambelt Change, Help & Advice
GialloEvo94
post 18th January 2009 00:43
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QUOTE(buellboy @ 17th January 2009 23:53) *
Can anyone offer me some advice on how to re-time the balancer shafts so that they are in phase with the engine again....I'd also appreciate some help with the automatic cambelt tensioner...i just don't know how to put it on!

You need to fit the balance belt with the engine set at TDC. There are 2 notches on the face of the balance shaft pulleys which need to be set to 12-o'clock and then the belt fitted so that the 2 white lines on the belt line up with the notches on the balamce shafts...

Attached Image


Full fitting instructions for both the cam belt and the balance belt are in this workshop manual document (last 2 pages...29 & 30).

See this post for how to fit the automatic cam belt tensioner correctly without needing the special tensioning tool and see this post on how to set the automatic balance belt tensioner without needing the special tensioning tool.

You WILL need a vice to change the variator. If you try doing it any other way then you risk damaging the camshaft. If you don't have access to a vice then I'm sure a local backstreet garage would be good enough to let you use theirs for 20 mins if you chuck them a tenner.


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buellboy
post 18th January 2009 07:59
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GE that is exactly what I needed!...I will get a clamp from machine mart today! Let you know how I progress!


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GialloEvo94
post 18th January 2009 10:38
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QUOTE(buellboy @ 18th January 2009 07:59) *
I will get a clamp from machine mart today! Let you know how I progress!

Get some aluminium vice jaws as well, or alternatively some blocks of aluminium that you can use as padding between the steel vice jaws and the cam lobes. If you just try to use the steel jaws then you will damage the cams.


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930Tech
post 18th January 2009 11:44
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QUOTE(E500 TAT @ 30th December 2008 19:44) *
its not a balancer shaft belt is it?



QUOTE(buellboy @ 17th January 2009 23:53) *
Hello! Today progressed quite well!

Firstly I was quite happy to discover the cause of my engine knocking....a broken balancer belt!!! Amazing that i ran the car for over 400miles after i noticed the knocking, it could have been quite disasterous.


what do i win? whistle.gif
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buellboy
post 19th January 2009 16:31
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Done the job!!!! Car is sooo smooth apart from whining noise every now and again which I reckon is the alternator belt on the way out. Will upload some pics + add some useful advice once I finish running some errands.

ET500TAT you get 5,000 ugandand dollars


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GialloEvo94
post 19th January 2009 16:44
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QUOTE(buellboy @ 19th January 2009 16:31) *
Done the job!!!! Car is sooo smooth apart from whining noise every now and again which I reckon is the alternator belt on the way out.

Take the auxiliary belt off and run the engine with it off. That will confirm if something on that auxiliary belt circuit is causing the whine or if it's something else like the automatic tensioner set a bit too tight.

I just finished fixing a whine on my auxiliary belt circuit this weekend which turned out to be the alternator.


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930Tech
post 19th January 2009 18:52
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QUOTE(buellboy @ 19th January 2009 16:31) *
ET500TAT you get 5,000 ugandand dollars


dont tell me, you want my bank account details coolio.gif
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buellboy
post 19th January 2009 20:33
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This was the sight upon the removal of the cambelt cover! Soooo lucky! It's a shame because the cambelt is almost new (you can still see the markings!)
Attached Image


My vesrio of GE's tip on how to install the automatic cambelt tensioner...
Attached Image


We tried to get the variator out using this...didn't work! So i bougha vice but it was too small and it didn't work...so i paid a garage a tenner for removing it for me....(i'm having a shoulder op tomorrow and tbh didn't fancy dislocating my soulder again trying to remove the bloody thing!)
Attached Image


Won't be able to drive for 6 month rant.gif rant.gif rant.gif


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evo_number_one
post 19th January 2009 20:52
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Hope the Ops goes well - I almost put mine out waving goodbye to Bellamy wink.gif
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buellboy
post 19th January 2009 21:06
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QUOTE(evo_number_one @ 19th January 2009 20:52) *
Hope the Ops goes well - I almost put mine out waving goodbye to Bellamy wink.gif


I dislocated it celebrating a goal like Paolo Di Canio after the goal of the season against wimbledon!


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purple
post 19th January 2009 23:09
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good work getting it done, thumbup.gif
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langers
post 20th January 2009 07:06
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That was roody close! Iv just explained to the mrs about what i was cursing at, now she understands what the consiquenses could of been her words are "Lucky b@stard!"


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billyleung_146
post 24th January 2017 18:47
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Hi everyone,

I have a question that might be simple and silly..... When finding the TDC with the timing belt is off, does it matter whether it is in the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke?

Well, I guess logically, without the timing belt means the cam and the crank are turning separately. But is there anything about the crank position sensor, the ECU or other sensors that is defining the compression/ exhaust stroke that we have to follow??

Thanks!

This post has been edited by billyleung_146: 24th January 2017 18:48
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GialloEvo94
post 24th January 2017 19:54
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You need to fit the cam locking blocks, remove the old belt and then turn the crank until the mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the mark on the black plastic cover that goes around that pulley. In this position, piston one will then at Top Dead Centre (TDC).

You will find it easier to turn the crank if you remove all the spark plugs so you're not fighting against any compression. And easier still if you also jack one of the front wheels off the ground, put the car in 1st gear and then turn the wheel which in turn will turn the crankshaft.

Ideally you should use a DTI gauge screwed into cylinder 1 sparkplug hole to get exact TDC. Then lock the crank in position and fit the belt(s).

It's a simple as that! biggrin.gif


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billyleung_146
post 25th January 2017 04:02
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 24th January 2017 19:54) *
You need to fit the cam locking blocks, remove the old belt and then turn the crank until the mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the mark on the black plastic cover that goes around that pulley. In this position, piston one will then at Top Dead Centre (TDC).

You will find it easier to turn the crank if you remove all the spark plugs so you're not fighting against any compression. And easier still if you also jack one of the front wheels off the ground, put the car in 1st gear and then turn the wheel which in turn will turn the crankshaft.

Ideally you should use a DTI gauge screwed into cylinder 1 sparkplug hole to get exact TDC. Then lock the crank in position and fit the belt(s).

It's a simple as that! biggrin.gif


Thanks for all the details. My case is that my idler pulley had exploded so the cam belt might have slipped and everything in the wrong timing setting. What I am trying to do is to refit the timing belt and pulleys to see if any chance there is still correct compression in the cylinders, if not I will replace the head. Should there be any difference with the working steps? Could the timing be so wrong that the pistons, the inlet cam and the exhaust cam are in a combination that I can't put the cam locks on?

Also, lets say I'm putting on a new cylinder head, with no knowledge where the crank position was. How do I know that particular TDC is in compression stroke or exhaust stroke? Or it doesn't matter, the cam and crank position sensors and the ECU will sort it out for me?? Thanks!

This post has been edited by billyleung_146: 25th January 2017 04:08
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GialloEvo94
post 25th January 2017 08:32
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No, it doesn't matter what order you do it in. The important must-have tool is the cam locking blocks. These will only fit on when each camshaft is in one specific orientation. So just turn each camshaft until the block for that camshaft fits on and can be fully screwed down.

With this done and the crank turned so that piston 1 is at TDC you don't need to worry about compression or exhaust stroke cycles. The engine ECU takes care of that. It knows which cycle the engine is on because it knows the position if the exhaust camshaft. This is what the cam position sensor mounted behind the pulley wheel of the exhaust cam is for.

Also, the Twin Spark engine essentially runs on what is classed as a "wasted spark" setup. This means that a spark is produced in each cylinder on both its compression and exaust stokes. Obviously, only the spark in the piston on the compression stoke will produce any explosion in the cylinder while the spark in the opposing (exhaust stroke) cylinder will just be "wasted" and do nothing other than help to burn off any miniscule amount of unspent air/fuel mixture that might be left over. This also has the added benefit of helping to keep the exhaust emissions as clean as possible.

Which reminds me. If you are changing the head over to one from a 147, make sure that the cutouts on exhaust cam pulley exactly match those on your current head. If not then swap over both the cam position sensor and the exhaust cam pulley from your original head to the new one.

A couple of good relevant threads are below if you've not already seen them:-


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billyleung_146
post 25th January 2017 12:18
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Thanks! I will digest every word and picture! worshippy.gif
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billyleung_146
post 25th January 2017 17:58
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So I found that the reconditioned heads are usually "bare heads" without camshafts, variator or pulleys. When I transplant these parts from my old head, should I get new camshaft bearings (bushings) ? What else should I get new? oil seals? I guess this engine has hydraulic tappets, so there is no need to check or set valve clearance, right ?

Thanks!
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GialloEvo94
post 26th January 2017 02:22
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There are no replaceable camshaft bearings in the head. The runner bearings are machined directly into the aluminium head and if the diameter of any of the bearing runners measure to be outside the allowable tolerance then the head is considered a write-off.

Yes, the tappets are hydraulic so nothing much you need to do with those except just fit them.

As for seals and gaskets, what you will need is a complete top end gasket set which will include all the gaskets and seals that you need, a set of variator shell bearings that the variator rotates in (Alfa part number 71730023), some liquid gasket to re-seal the camshaft end cap with, and some thread locker (i.e. Loctite 243).





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billyleung_146
post 26th January 2017 04:43
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Thanks! I meant the variator shell bearing. Ok should get new ones.

One more thing is how to hold the cam sprockets while tightening them up. The alfa tools 1.822.155.000. and 1.822.146.000. are nowhere to be found. I guess some universal cam sprocket holders can hold the exhaust one, but how about the inlet one? Need special tools? or hand made tools?

This post has been edited by billyleung_146: 26th January 2017 04:44
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