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Alfa Romeo 145 - 146 Forum _ FAQ _ Bumper Removal

Posted by: alfatom 31st May 2006 12:44

Hi Guys...
I am going to fit the resonator replacement pipe this weekend and as a bit of prep I thought I would just check with you knowledgeable guys as to how long it may take to remove the bumper and where the clips are. blink.gif

Is the bumper 1 peice or can you remove the bottom half in order to get the resonator out?
Are the clips reasonably tough and designed to be removed and replaced or are they just bolts?
Where are the bolts that I need to remove to get the bumper off.
Do you have any other hints and tips for this job?

I have had a look at the photos that are on the forum showing the change of part but the bumper is already off in the shots....

I am also going to do an oil change and fit the K&N panel filter - should have the alfa growl back by the weekend! woohoo. biggrin.gif

Posted by: GialloEvo94 31st May 2006 12:56

It's fairly easy...

1) Remove grille (bolts on top...remove carefully as there are spring clips holding the side bits in)
2) Remove screws on top of the bumper
3) Remove screws on underside of the bumper
4) Remove clips (or screws on the facelifts) which connect the wheel arch liner to the bumper
5) Disconnect the foglamps
6) Disconnect the headlamp washers
7) Slide the bumper forward (it is on rails) then lift it off complete

I tried to do mine last weekend but ran into problems with the http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtopic=7494 angry.gif You shouldn't have the same issue though as you have a pre-facelift so they used clips instead of screws on the wheel arch liners smile.gif

Posted by: alfatom 31st May 2006 13:57

QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ May 31 2006, 01:56 PM)
I tried to do mine last weekend but ran into problems with the http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtopic=7494 angry.gif You shouldn't have the same issue though as you have a pre-facelift so they used clips instead of screws on the wheel arch liners smile.gif
*


Thanks very much for the guidance. I look forward to having a go at it myself. I just hope that it doesn't all go wrong with the bumper off!!!!

With regard to your issue of the screws getting 'welded' in place - I saw just the thing for you advertised at Bob Dyas the other day. They are screw extracting drill bits that are designed to be used on rounded off screw heads. Basically, you need a nice strong drill with a slow speed on it and then these drill bits and it should get them out OK. If not, then it will work on the other non welded screws you come accross in life. Here is the >>> http://www.jmldirect.com/product.php?cid=4&pid=6&gclid=COOp-dTcooUCFQUgHgodOSMnyw

Let me know how you get on.

Posted by: GialloEvo94 3rd June 2006 19:24

QUOTE(alfatom @ May 31 2006, 02:57 PM)
Let me know how you get on.
*

Well I finally got the screws connecting the wheel arch liner to the bumper drilled out using cobalt drills (very hard) and RTD cutting compound biggrin.gif

But, I hit two problems (one of them major sad.gif). First, I couldn't get the mounting bracket off the resonator as the bolt is so badly corroded into the bracket. Second, I managed to trash my air box by breaking off most of the lugs which hold the lid on, again due to corroded in screws mad.gif Why don't people use grease on anything? rant.gif



I could fart around with cutting the bracket off and cleaning it up but I need a new air box now which means it's going to be next week until I can finish the job anyway so I'm just going to order a new bracket and be done with it. So, what I thought would be a fairly straight forward has turned into a complete mission rolleyes.gif Hopefully I'll get there eventually wacko.gif

Just one other thing. When you disconnect the headlamp washer joint, water will go everywhere as your washer tank drains itself all over the floor which is something I overlooked doh.gif You have three options...1) Have a bucket handy and drain the tank through the disconnected pipe 2) Push the end of the hose up trhough the engine bay and leave it in a place there the end of the hose higher than the tank 3) Don't disconnect the hose at all and just move the bumper to the side of the car with this hose still connected (which is what I did in the end) smile.gif



Also, for anyone with facelift car, the bumper isn't on runners like the pre-facelift bumpers are. Instead, there is an additional 'hidden' bolt on each side of the bumper rolleyes.gif. To find it you need to peel back the inner wheel arch liner...





The bumper then just lifts off.

Posted by: F355 3rd June 2006 20:18

It's never straightforward is it biggrin.gif

Hopefully it will be worth it in the end. At least you will know the pitfalls of removing facelift bumpers wink.gif

Posted by: alfatom 5th June 2006 08:59

GialloEvo.... Looks like you are having a nightmare with this resonator/K&N fitting exercise. Best of luck with that.
As you know I had exactly the same job to do and living on the streets (so to speak) in London meant that removing bumpers is quite tricky.
That said I couldn't beleive my luck when it all went so smoothly this weekend and I got the bumper removed, resonator removed, brazillian pipe (as I like to call it now) and K&N fitted in about 1 hour! I couldn't beleive it. The bumper was literally 5 bolts (1 missing) and 4 clips and it just slipped straight off like you said it would.
.....But you don't want to hear that!!!!! Sorry. blush.gif

If its any consolation, the new free breathing pipe and K&N make a noticable difference to the performance and engine note and also gone is the rubbish noise it made - sounded like the engine was packaged in a plastic box. (the resonator I guess). So thats something to look forward to!

I pulled apart the resonator once it was removed to have a look what it was actually made of and I have to say its a bizarre design with the air still running straight through a pipe (all beit a U bend) but with what looks like 2 toilet rolls packed around it and then a bit bolted on the side attached by a pipe. Strange thing - I can't imagine why they would have felt the need to fit it!?!

I also had a rear alfa badge to fit (the lock cover) which ended up taking about 1 hour to fit as well.... What a fiddly b@stard that is!!!! In the end I had to ditch the helicoil spring from the inside of the boot (not the external one) as I just couldn't get it and the white washer and the c clip all on in one go. Seems to work perfectly though so I guess I see how it goes. Managed to break a clip and a bit of the trim in the process though - damn it.

Next job: CSC box, removing spark plugs in cyclinder 1 and perhaps an ECU chip wink.gif

Posted by: GialloEvo94 5th June 2006 09:38

QUOTE(alfatom @ Jun 5 2006, 09:59 AM)
As you know I had exactly the same job to do and living on the streets (so to speak) in London meant that removing bumpers is quite tricky.
That said I couldn't beleive my luck when it all went so smoothly this weekend and I got the bumper removed, resonator removed, brazillian pipe (as I like to call it now) and K&N fitted in about 1 hour! I couldn't beleive it. The bumper was literally 5 bolts (1 missing) and 4 clips and it just slipped straight off like you said it would.
.....But you don't want to hear that!!!!! Sorry.  blush.gif
*

tongue.gif (but well done biggrin.gif)

I've been unable to source one of the later type air boxes secondhand and as I need it by next weekend I just bit the bullet and ordered a brand new one today (£60 sad.gif). I also ordered a load of shiny new bolts and some other trim/odds and ends I've been needing for a while to tidy a few things up. Needless to say I'll be going overboard with greasing everything up when it all goes back together so the next lucky owner is going to have an easy life when it comes to any maintenance smile.gif

Next job is the lower wishbones so I guess I'll just expect the worst with that job too biggrin.gif I can't believe how much money I've spent on this car since I got it less than a year ago. Surprisingly, it's actually costing far more than the Lancia in annual maintenance costs huh.gif

Posted by: GialloEvo94 2nd July 2006 23:08

Finally, over a month after starting the job and the car off the road for the last 4 weeks while awaiting a new air box (the first one sent was broken angry.gif) I finally got everything back together again today biggrin.gif New air box, K&N panel filter and replacement resonator pipe cool.gif Have to say it sounds much better without that nasty resonator box thumbup.gif It was a struggle but I got there in the end laugh.gif



Posted by: alfatom 3rd July 2006 07:18

Well done GE!!!
Sometimes these jobs are sent to test us....
The sound is much better as you say and I have found that as you drive it around from now on you will just catch little moments when it just sounds fantastic. I guess its just the perfect placement of walls or tunnels and stillness in the air! Such a motor geek I know.
Enjoy.

Posted by: greencloverleaf pat 15th July 2006 18:10

how much was the replacment filter and also what is the resonator box from patrick.
p.s does it sound much different now and also does it help drivability.

Posted by: GialloEvo94 15th July 2006 22:52

QUOTE(greencloverleaf pat @ Jul 15 2006, 07:10 PM) *
how much was the replacment filter and also what is the resonator box from patrick.
p.s does it sound much different now and also does it help drivability.

Replacement pipe was £3 from Alfa (part number 60617628) and the K&N Panel Filter was £40. There is a change in the induction noise as the resonator was more restrictive and wasn't a straight airflow path into the air box whereas the replacement pipe is. The K&N is also freer flowing than the OEM paper filter so helps the system to breath a little easier.



Any performance gain by applying this setup is negligible and I can't say I've really noticed any change in drivability.

Posted by: greencloverleaf pat 16th July 2006 07:56

i think i will get the air filter also .

Posted by: GialloEvo94 16th July 2006 08:37

I got my K&N filter from the same place I got the pipe, mainly because I had a load of other bits on order and couldn't be arsed going elsewhere to get one. You will get them slightly cheaper somewhere like http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=k%26n+air+filter+alfa+145 or maybe another online motor factors. Before you go ordering any stuff, make sure you can get the screws out of the air box first because these can cause you some grief (see http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtopic=7585). If you do get them out then grease them up straight away before putting them back in again.

Posted by: greencloverleaf pat 16th July 2006 10:04

ok thanks mate

Posted by: jonmns77 1st June 2008 15:49

well just finished mine off, it took about 3 hours and 300 swear words laugh.gif i struggled with the rear left nut holding the box in place for ages. once out i took the top section of pipe out of the resonator box and used this as my cold feed (kind of half a brazilian!) until my k&n cold feed arrives next week. i must say the induction sound is perfect and not too loud and chavvy. please note i could not find any screws underneath the bumper so this must only be for pre-facelift ones.

Posted by: GialloEvo94 1st June 2008 17:18

QUOTE(jonmns77 @ 1st June 2008 16:49) *
please note i could not find any screws underneath the bumper so this must only be for pre-facelift ones.

There are definately screws underneath the bumper of a facelift 145 which I say from experience because mine is a facelift and I've had my bumper off a few times now. If you have no screws underneath then it means that a previous owner (or garage) hasn't put them back in after replacing the bumper.

Posted by: jonmns77 1st June 2008 18:17

QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 1st June 2008 18:18) *
There are definately screws underneath the bumper of a facelift 145 which I say from experience because mine is a facelift and I've had my bumper off a few times now. If you have no screws underneath then it means that a previous owner (or garage) hasn't put them back in after replacing the bumper.

i stand corrected (said the man in orthopaedic shoes!) coolio.gif

Posted by: ohit 10th January 2010 11:58

Does the front bumper HAVE to come off to fit the straight through pipe?

I have the resonator already off on mine with just the short top pipe attached (i.e. see http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtopic=1821&st=0#, the first couple of photos, the pipe that goes down attached to the large resonator).

Also, where on the outside (front of car) does the air come into the straight through pipe. Can't work it out from the photos.

Posted by: langers 10th January 2010 12:31

The corner of the bumper does in order to bend it round, but then you risk cracking things so yes, it is best to remove the whole bumper.

Posted by: ToxyMaTT 29th September 2013 10:34

QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 16th July 2006 00:52) *
Replacement pipe was £3 from Alfa (part number 60617628)



Is this the JTD pipe ?
I saw this when I took a look at EPER, TS resonator ohmy.gif





JTD :






Is the pipe a better idea than removing the resonator and put nothing in replacement ?
Like a cold air intake?

Posted by: GialloEvo94 29th September 2013 11:26

QUOTE(ToxyMaTT @ 29th September 2013 11:34) *
Is this the JTD pipe ?
I saw this when I took a look at EPER, TS resonator ohmy.gif


JTD :


Is the pipe a better idea than removing the resonator and put nothing in replacement ?
Like a cold air intake?

No, the pipe I got was off the Brazilian version of the 145/146. In Europe cars were required to be fitted with a "resonator" by EU law to comply with noise levels. This wasn't a requirement in Brazil so rather than fit some expensive convoluted noise reduction box they just fitted the straight through pipe as shown in my photo. Unfortunately this is no longer available from Alfa as they are all sold out with no more being manufactured.

I'm not sure if the JTD version of that pipe is the same as the TS one. I wouldn't go by the diagram because while it may look the same it may just be a generic picture they've used and the actual JTD pipe may have a different size airbox fitting to the TS one and/or be a different length. Without seeing a JTD and TS airbox (and the pipe) side-by-side it's difficult to know.

You would have to take a gamble if you decided to buy one of the JTD pipes, assuming of course that Alfa still have the JTD ones available.

Other than that you can always make up your own. At least one other person on here in the past has butchered their resonator by cutting off the part that clips into the airbox and attaching a generic piece of pipe to it (jubilee clip or similar) so that's another possible option.

It's always preferable to run with some kind of air feed pipe rather than nothing at all because if you just leave an open hole in the airbox where the resonator attached to there is a chance that hot air from the engine bay will just get sucked into it. Better to have a directional pipe that you can feed to a location where you know it will be getting cold air.

Posted by: ToxyMaTT 29th September 2013 12:10

Thx for your answer ! wink.gif

So ... all sold out, and no chance to find a second-hand one here in Europe ?! sad.gif
Maybe I'll try the JTD one, if I find a second-hand one, or I will adapt a généric pipe...

I'll keep you inform ! biggrin.gif

Posted by: simon88wilson 29th September 2013 14:19

See post #2 on this thread: http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtopic=15104

that maybe a possibility although when i did it to mine, i ended up cutting my finger pretty deeply with the tubing and also after a while i found the aluminium was shredded...

Posted by: ToxyMaTT 1st October 2013 15:08

QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 16th July 2006 00:52) *
Replacement pipe was £3 from Alfa (part number 60617628)



JTD pipe looks like nearly the same, what do you think ? (part number 60 654 981)


Posted by: GialloEvo94 1st October 2013 16:24

QUOTE(ToxyMaTT @ 1st October 2013 16:08) *
JTD pipe looks like nearly the same, what do you think ? (part number 60 654 981)


The JTD one looks longer to me from the pictures.

Posted by: raudio 16th December 2015 21:04

QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 3rd June 2006 19:24) *
Well I finally got the screws connecting the wheel arch liner to the bumper drilled out using cobalt drills (very hard) and RTD cutting compound biggrin.gif

But, I hit two problems (one of them major sad.gif). First, I couldn't get the mounting bracket off the resonator as the bolt is so badly corroded into the bracket. Second, I managed to trash my air box by breaking off most of the lugs which hold the lid on, again due to corroded in screws mad.gif Why don't people use grease on anything? rant.gif



I could fart around with cutting the bracket off and cleaning it up but I need a new air box now which means it's going to be next week until I can finish the job anyway so I'm just going to order a new bracket and be done with it. So, what I thought would be a fairly straight forward has turned into a complete mission rolleyes.gif Hopefully I'll get there eventually wacko.gif

Just one other thing. When you disconnect the headlamp washer joint, water will go everywhere as your washer tank drains itself all over the floor which is something I overlooked doh.gif You have three options...1) Have a bucket handy and drain the tank through the disconnected pipe 2) Push the end of the hose up trhough the engine bay and leave it in a place there the end of the hose higher than the tank 3) Don't disconnect the hose at all and just move the bumper to the side of the car with this hose still connected (which is what I did in the end) smile.gif



Also, for anyone with facelift car, the bumper isn't on runners like the pre-facelift bumpers are. Instead, there is an additional 'hidden' bolt on each side of the bumper rolleyes.gif. To find it you need to peel back the inner wheel arch liner...





The bumper then just lifts off.



thanks

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