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> Heating: Matrix Radiator Replacement
jam
post 13th October 2007 20:40
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A Guide by maxtoby:-

When my Alfa dealer gave me a quote for replacing the Heater Radiator, I decided it was time to get the tool kit out Ė something I haven't done for many years. I am indebted to members 'purple' for advice and 'CMA' who have posted some very clear instructions and photos on how to replace the heater fan, which is an identical procedure for the first step. I've copied much of CMA's photo guidance below.

I suggest that you double check that it is the radiator itself you need to change. Attached to the radiator inlet is a valve unit controlling the flow of water to the radiator. It could well be that this is where the problems lies.

Although I am only am amateur it seems more likely that this valve, with it's moving parts, is more likely to break down than the static radiator itself. And when I finally got the Heater Radiator assembly, it was dry inside, suggesting it might have been just the valve unit that was broken in my car (thanks go to my Alfa Garage for charging £100 for such an inaccurate diagnosis !)

However, you can't buy this valve from Alfa Romeo by itself, you have to buy the whole heater radiator assembly. So check out where the problem is because replacing just this valve unit is much, much easier to replace, as you don't need to remove the whole heater system assembly (Shown below).

Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement01.jpg ( 30.27k ) Number of downloads: 524


Let's start with an overview.

The Heater Radiator (HR) sits in the middle of the Heater Assembly, pictured above. The bit to the left houses the fan and sits above the passenger's feet and the larger bit to the right sits in the central console.

The HR (arrowed in picture) can't slide out to be replaced because it is obstructed by the fan housing to the right. The only way to replace it is to take out the whole unit as shown in the photo. Only then can you get to the screws to dismantle to unit and finally get the HR out. To get to this you will need to remove most of the interior dash board.

At the back of the unit there are two water pipes which go through the bulkhead into the engine compartment. You will need to remove the hoses which fix on to these pipes from inside the engine compartment. There are two ways to do this. If you have access to the underside of the car, you should be able to get at the clips. I didn't have access underneath so I had to remove the battery tray and get access that way.

Remember that if you have air bags you need to disconnect the battery at least 30 minutes before you start to play around in the area where the airbag ECU is located.

This job is fiddly and long with some awkward screws and bolts to be undone rather than technically difficult. So before you start I suggest you devise some system for keeping everything you remove and the respective nuts and bolts in some sort of order.

OK, here we go. The first 10 steps are taken from CMA's Heater Fan Replacement guide.
  1. Remove the strip in the middle of the passenger side dash. This is just one screw then the section is only held in by clips so it can be pulled off. Be careful if you have a passenger air bag. I don't so I can't advise on that process.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement02.jpg ( 37.07k ) Number of downloads: 281


  2. Remove the ashtray to get at the 2 screws (circled below) holding the ashtray unit and clock unit pull this unit out and remove the connectors.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement03.jpg ( 51.23k ) Number of downloads: 140


  3. Move to the heater control panel and remove the dials with a set of mole grips, protecting the plastic by using a cloth in the jaws of the grips then remove the screws circled in the picture.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement04.jpg ( 35.76k ) Number of downloads: 132


    Once the screws are out you can just pull the panel off as it is now only held in with 2 plastic clips (highlighted below), remove the connector and discard the panel into your back seats.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement05.jpg ( 31.07k ) Number of downloads: 151


  4. Remove your stereo, the tray below and the plastic separating spar. You can now get to the metal spar behind the airbag unit, a short Phillips screwdriver is needed to get to these 2 screws, I had to remove this as the wires went round the front of this stopping me removing the dash.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement06.jpg ( 57.12k ) Number of downloads: 127


  5. Remove the 2 small vented pieces in the foot-wells, only 2 screws on each they will then pull out towards the back of the car.

    Passenger side:

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement07.jpg ( 16.22k ) Number of downloads: 117


    Driverís side:

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement08.jpg ( 28.45k ) Number of downloads: 96


  6. Remove the bottom part of the steering wheel console by removing the 4 screws (the other one highlighted is one I missed).

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement09.jpg ( 43.89k ) Number of downloads: 106


  7. You now have access to all the remaining screws and bolts holding the main part of the dash to the car. There is one awkward one under the dash on the right hand hinge of the glove box, which will need a short Phillips to get at and one that holds the centre console to the dash. Two bolts just above the dash need removing (10mm IIRC)

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement10.jpg ( 38.86k ) Number of downloads: 171

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement11.jpg ( 66.89k ) Number of downloads: 171


    Some under the steering column will need to be removed. You may also want to remove the one ringed in blue to aid removal of the dash later on.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement12.jpg ( 52.89k ) Number of downloads: 136


    All that is left now to remove the large part of the dash is to get at the 2 bolts holding the bottom of the dash to the chassis just in front of the centre console, these are a complete pain in the a**e to get at and are a 10mm nut IIRC, donít try undoing the obvious 11mm nut that is easily accessible as it is a captive nut. I found the easiest way to get to them is to remove the cover from the gear stick. This at least allows you to see what your doing.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement13.jpg ( 56.87k ) Number of downloads: 140


    The picture below shows the location of these nuts after removal of the dash...

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement14.jpg ( 64.72k ) Number of downloads: 137


    Now you are ready to remove the big part of the dash, it is rather awkward to get the metal bracket over the centre console but with a bit of gentle persuasion and gentle bending it will get over the centre console. You are now left with a view similar to this...

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement15.jpg ( 62.73k ) Number of downloads: 235


    The arrow shows where the fan is located. But you shouldn't need to remove it. Just disconnect the wires to it.

  8. Remove the plastic cover arrowed below. To do this remove the two screws and it should come away easily. You will need to remove the wiring clip as well, which you can just see at the front of the cover in the photo.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement16.jpg ( 53.3k ) Number of downloads: 265


  9. You can now see the pipes coming out of the HR. The forwards one has a control valve and it this is where the fault lies it is now easy to replace. Remove the pipe and undo the two 10mm nuts and it comes away easily.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement17.jpg ( 5.84k ) Number of downloads: 137


    This is the valve assembly once removed. However, if you need to replace the HR itself, then there is a bit more dismantling to be done yet.

    Overview of next stage.

    The large air system assembly is held in by 5 bolts and the pipes going through a hole into the engine compartment. The problem is that in order to get it out, you also need to loosen the large dash board running the width of the car. And that's where we start next.

  10. Remove the small panel to the right of the steering wheel that contains the headlight height adjuster. It's held on by four clips so it's just a matter of gently prising it off and disconnecting the wiring.
  11. To the right, there are two air vents which connect to the drivers door when it's shut. You need to remove the plastic cover on the lower one. This is done by inserting a small blade against the two tongues (top and bottom) and levering them out slightly, which allows the vent to be removed.
  12. You can now remove the four screws which were hidden by the air vent and panel you've just removed as shown in the photos below and this will allow you to remove the lower dash panel.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement18.jpg ( 25.25k ) Number of downloads: 134

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement19.jpg ( 15.4k ) Number of downloads: 105


  13. The area to the right of the steering wheel now looks something like this.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement20.jpg ( 41.03k ) Number of downloads: 159


    Now remove the cluster of electrics which includes the yellow block in the picture. This will allow you to get to a bolt behind it. You will need to unclip the electric cable which crosses the area then remove two 8mm bolts which are underneath the flat plate. The position of the right hand bolt is arrowed.

  14. Now it's time to loosen the main dashboard running the width of the car by removing the four bolts holding it to the car frame. There are two in front of the passenger seat as arrowed in the photo.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement21.jpg ( 29.21k ) Number of downloads: 144


    And then one either side of the steering wheel. The right one is arrowed in the photos below.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement22.jpg ( 29.86k ) Number of downloads: 132


    You should now be able to lift up the front of the dash board a few inches.

  15. Now it's best to remove the back of the heater control panel, which is still attached to the central console. I'm not sure this is absolutely necessary, but makes some of the next steps easier and you do need to detach the blue cables. So undo the two screws on the top left and right and the unit will come away easily.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement23.jpg ( 39.46k ) Number of downloads: 152


  16. Now detach the three blue control cables. Do this by removing the screw which secures the outer sheath to the air assembly and then unclip the end from the lever its attached to. If you have any difficulties then you could detach them from the facia end.
  17. Undo wiring to fan (just above the passengers feet) and pull the cables through to the drivers side.
  18. Undo and remove the central air bag control box just in front of the gear stick (arrowed in the photo below).

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement24.jpg ( 39.11k ) Number of downloads: 145


  19. Underneath the heater system assembly there are two curved bits of ducting taking air to the rear. These are held in place with just one screw each and them they pull out.

    It may be worth while noting that the two funnel outlets going the drivers and passengers feet do not need to be removed. There are two screws visible but another one underneath which is impossible to undo (or even see) until the assembly is removed.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement25.jpg ( 45.64k ) Number of downloads: 216


  20. Now it's time to get under the bonnet. As I said at the beginning, there are two pipes which come from the heater assembly, through the bulkhead into the engine compartment where they connect to two water hoses. These hoses need to be disconnected.

    From the position of the pipe clips on my car, they were secured from below so if you have access to the underneath of the car, I suggest you try to get to them by this route. I was repairing my car on the drive and didn't have access underneath so I had to remove the battery, then the battery shelf (4 bolts) and get access round the back of the engine that way.

    You might like to bung up the open pipes to stop water coming out over the inside of you car when you remove the heater assembly (I didn't think of this at the time!).

  21. Were now ready to remove the bolts securing the large air and heater system assembly.

    Remove the two bolts, one either side of the central body connecting it to the metal dash board frame. Arrows below show the left had side bolt and one on the fan unit.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement26.jpg ( 42.83k ) Number of downloads: 179


    There's another bolt to be undone underneath and to the right of the fan unit.

  22. Now at last you should be ready to remove the large air management system assembly shown below (once removed).

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement27.jpg ( 37.69k ) Number of downloads: 160


    You should satisfy yourself there's nothing else stopping it coming out. Check that you've disconnected at the cables going to it and then gently prise the unit away from the bulkhead, towards you.

    This is tricky because, where the vents on the assembly connect to other vents, they are sealed with sticky foam gaskets. So there will be some resistance. You also need to raise the front of the top dash board a little.

    But with a little perseverance the whole assembly will come away and you can take it to you work bench or wherever.

  23. From here it's relatively simple to dismantle. Remove the two pipes from the HR manifold. Then dismantle the heater assembly. You will have to take to top off in order to get at the screws inside which join the two halves together.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement28.jpg ( 40.12k ) Number of downloads: 168


    And now finally the Heater Radiator will side out and you can replace it.

  24. At the start I suggested you devise some system for keeping track of all the bits you removed. Whether you relied on memory or a series of labels and numbered plastic bags like me, now it's time to see how your system works, because it's time to reverse the procedure to reassemble you car. I was left with one small screw, which I must have omitted from somewhere. I hope you can do better.
Good luck.
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GialloEvo94
post 13th October 2007 22:25
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Great guide thumbsup.gif Now moved to the FAQ "How To" Guides section along with all the other step-by-step maintenance walkthroughs smile.gif


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purple
post 14th October 2007 21:24
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great guide, it is possible to get the rad out without taking the whole HVAC unit out, IIRC I took the valve off, slid the rad in and put the valve back on, but its a tight fit and I did bend a few fins in the process. How long did it take you to do?
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Stualfa146
post 1st January 2010 19:51
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That is brilliant help, thanks. Could you tell me, though, how far I need to go if I only need to replace the cable (which has broken) behind the red heater control knob? The garage quoted £150, so I thought I would do it myself if it is fairly straightforward and really only labour intensive. I think I need to know how the cable fits onto the knob and onto the heater. If you can help me with this I would be very grateful. Thank you.
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purple
post 1st January 2010 21:00
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Hi, welcome to the forum

labour intensive is a good phrase biggrin.gif

the cable is held on with nothing more than a friction fastner that just pushes on, one of those ones that is like a mini top hat and it just pushed on the end of the control arm after the cable has been hooked on.

HTH
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Stualfa146
post 2nd January 2010 14:54
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Thanks for the welcome and the quick response, purple. That is very helpful. Any idea how far I need to strip it down to do this? Can you reach through the hole in the dash when all the dials have been removed to reach the other end of the cable, or does it involve a few more screws and plastic trim removal? Thanks ever so much.
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purple
post 6th January 2010 10:10
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sorry for the delayed respense

If I remember right, the heater panels and the small vent that fills in the gap between centre colsole, glovebox and carpet. I cannot remember if the glovebox, airbag and console have to come out too. The tricky bit is the airbag, not because it is hard to remove, just the battery has to be disconnected, wait 30 mins, remove the four allen keys holding it to the body, then hope the car starts again (have red key handy, some (like mine) needed it).

It maybe possible to do with out removing so much stuff, but the space is small, you will need a stubby crosshead screwdriver to tighten the cable end clamp which is what breaks, and small hands (job for the wife/GF maybe biggrin.gif)

HTH and good luck
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Stualfa146
post 6th January 2010 22:13
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Don't worry. Not really going to go out there in the snow! That sounds really useful and thanks for the details regarding the airbag. I presume it explodes if you don't follow the procedure! I'll let you know if I win. Kind regards, Stualfa
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purple
post 8th January 2010 00:02
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it does not explode, but you will get an annoying light on the dash that can only be reset by the dealer for £50 or so.

You may not have to disconnect the airbag to remove it thinking about it, the wire is long enough to place it on the floor.

HTH
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PhilipAlfa
post 6th June 2012 19:05
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Well over the weekend I discovered that my cars footwells were a bit damp. I checked all the drain holes but they were fine. So i got my screwdrivers and allen keys out and set upon the dashboard rant.gif

Again another great guide here and it didn't actually take too long. Now that the car is stripped I think it's just the heater valve on the end of the heater matrix and not the actual matrix itself, which is a relief.

However I've got one question - how do you remove the Jubilee clips on the hoses - they don't seem to be the normal types. Crappy phone photo below:



Thanks!
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Adeebo
post 6th June 2012 19:28
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Great guide!!! Pity i didnt look it up here, i just paid massive moeny to have mine feeexed! doh.gif
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Cloverleaf76
post 6th June 2012 19:40
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QUOTE(PhilipAlfa @ 6th June 2012 20:05) *
how do you remove the Jubilee clips on the hoses - they don't seem to be the normal types. Crappy phone photo below:


With difficulty, IIRC. A screwdriver in the right place should loosen them, if you get really annoyed then bolt croppers on the sticky up bit does little but might make you feel better. Repated often enough it could even mangle them into failure.
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GialloEvo94
post 6th June 2012 19:40
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QUOTE(PhilipAlfa @ 6th June 2012 20:05) *
However I've got one question - how do you remove the Jubilee clips on the hoses - they don't seem to be the normal types.

Those type aren't reusable. Just use a screwdriver or pair of long nose pliers to twist off the spring clip (the bulbous bit sticking out). Then put a flat blade screwdriver in the bulbous bit that is left and lever it open to loosen the compression grip of the clip on the hose. Then either slide the clip up the pipe if it's loose enough or use some side cutters to cut it off. Replace with standard jubilee clips.


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Cloverleaf76
post 6th June 2012 19:45
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 6th June 2012 20:40) *
Those type aren't reusable. Just use a pair of cutters or long nose pliers to twist off the spring clip (the bulbous bit sticking out). Then put a flat blade screwdriver in the bulbous bit that is left and lever it open to loosen the compression grip of the clip on the hose. Then either slide the clip up the pipe if it's loose enough or use some side cutters to cut it off. Replace with standard jubilee clips.


As ever, GE's advice is that much more useful than mine worshippy.gif

Sigh!
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PhilipAlfa
post 6th June 2012 20:12
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Thanks gents!
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lil lee
post 17th January 2013 08:23
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QUOTE(jam @ 13th October 2007 20:40) *
A Guide by maxtoby:-

When my Alfa dealer gave me a quote for replacing the Heater Radiator, I decided it was time to get the tool kit out Ė something I haven't done for many years. I am indebted to members 'purple' for advice and 'CMA' who have posted some very clear instructions and photos on how to replace the heater fan, which is an identical procedure for the first step. I've copied much of CMA's photo guidance below.

I suggest that you double check that it is the radiator itself you need to change. Attached to the radiator inlet is a valve unit controlling the flow of water to the radiator. It could well be that this is where the problems lies.

Although I am only am amateur it seems more likely that this valve, with it's moving parts, is more likely to break down than the static radiator itself. And when I finally got the Heater Radiator assembly, it was dry inside, suggesting it might have been just the valve unit that was broken in my car (thanks go to my Alfa Garage for charging £100 for such an inaccurate diagnosis !)

However, you can't buy this valve from Alfa Romeo by itself, you have to buy the whole heater radiator assembly. So check out where the problem is because replacing just this valve unit is much, much easier to replace, as you don't need to remove the whole heater system assembly (Shown below).

Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement01.jpg ( 30.27k ) Number of downloads: 524


Let's start with an overview.

The Heater Radiator (HR) sits in the middle of the Heater Assembly, pictured above. The bit to the left houses the fan and sits above the passenger's feet and the larger bit to the right sits in the central console.

The HR (arrowed in picture) can't slide out to be replaced because it is obstructed by the fan housing to the right. The only way to replace it is to take out the whole unit as shown in the photo. Only then can you get to the screws to dismantle to unit and finally get the HR out. To get to this you will need to remove most of the interior dash board.

At the back of the unit there are two water pipes which go through the bulkhead into the engine compartment. You will need to remove the hoses which fix on to these pipes from inside the engine compartment. There are two ways to do this. If you have access to the underside of the car, you should be able to get at the clips. I didn't have access underneath so I had to remove the battery tray and get access that way.

Remember that if you have air bags you need to disconnect the battery at least 30 minutes before you start to play around in the area where the airbag ECU is located.

This job is fiddly and long with some awkward screws and bolts to be undone rather than technically difficult. So before you start I suggest you devise some system for keeping everything you remove and the respective nuts and bolts in some sort of order.

OK, here we go. The first 10 steps are taken from CMA's Heater Fan Replacement guide.
  1. Remove the strip in the middle of the passenger side dash. This is just one screw then the section is only held in by clips so it can be pulled off. Be careful if you have a passenger air bag. I don't so I can't advise on that process.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement02.jpg ( 37.07k ) Number of downloads: 281
  2. Remove the ashtray to get at the 2 screws (circled below) holding the ashtray unit and clock unit pull this unit out and remove the connectors.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement03.jpg ( 51.23k ) Number of downloads: 140
  3. Move to the heater control panel and remove the dials with a set of mole grips, protecting the plastic by using a cloth in the jaws of the grips then remove the screws circled in the picture.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement04.jpg ( 35.76k ) Number of downloads: 132


    Once the screws are out you can just pull the panel off as it is now only held in with 2 plastic clips (highlighted below), remove the connector and discard the panel into your back seats.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement05.jpg ( 31.07k ) Number of downloads: 151
  4. Remove your stereo, the tray below and the plastic separating spar. You can now get to the metal spar behind the airbag unit, a short Phillips screwdriver is needed to get to these 2 screws, I had to remove this as the wires went round the front of this stopping me removing the dash.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement06.jpg ( 57.12k ) Number of downloads: 127
  5. Remove the 2 small vented pieces in the foot-wells, only 2 screws on each they will then pull out towards the back of the car.

    Passenger side:

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement07.jpg ( 16.22k ) Number of downloads: 117


    Driverís side:

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement08.jpg ( 28.45k ) Number of downloads: 96
  6. Remove the bottom part of the steering wheel console by removing the 4 screws (the other one highlighted is one I missed).

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement09.jpg ( 43.89k ) Number of downloads: 106
  7. You now have access to all the remaining screws and bolts holding the main part of the dash to the car. There is one awkward one under the dash on the right hand hinge of the glove box, which will need a short Phillips to get at and one that holds the centre console to the dash. Two bolts just above the dash need removing (10mm IIRC)

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement10.jpg ( 38.86k ) Number of downloads: 171

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement11.jpg ( 66.89k ) Number of downloads: 171


    Some under the steering column will need to be removed. You may also want to remove the one ringed in blue to aid removal of the dash later on.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement12.jpg ( 52.89k ) Number of downloads: 136


    All that is left now to remove the large part of the dash is to get at the 2 bolts holding the bottom of the dash to the chassis just in front of the centre console, these are a complete pain in the a**e to get at and are a 10mm nut IIRC, donít try undoing the obvious 11mm nut that is easily accessible as it is a captive nut. I found the easiest way to get to them is to remove the cover from the gear stick. This at least allows you to see what your doing.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement13.jpg ( 56.87k ) Number of downloads: 140


    The picture below shows the location of these nuts after removal of the dash...

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement14.jpg ( 64.72k ) Number of downloads: 137


    Now you are ready to remove the big part of the dash, it is rather awkward to get the metal bracket over the centre console but with a bit of gentle persuasion and gentle bending it will get over the centre console. You are now left with a view similar to this...

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement15.jpg ( 62.73k ) Number of downloads: 235


    The arrow shows where the fan is located. But you shouldn't need to remove it. Just disconnect the wires to it.
  8. Remove the plastic cover arrowed below. To do this remove the two screws and it should come away easily. You will need to remove the wiring clip as well, which you can just see at the front of the cover in the photo.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement16.jpg ( 53.3k ) Number of downloads: 265
  9. You can now see the pipes coming out of the HR. The forwards one has a control valve and it this is where the fault lies it is now easy to replace. Remove the pipe and undo the two 10mm nuts and it comes away easily.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement17.jpg ( 5.84k ) Number of downloads: 137


    This is the valve assembly once removed. However, if you need to replace the HR itself, then there is a bit more dismantling to be done yet.

    Overview of next stage.

    The large air system assembly is held in by 5 bolts and the pipes going through a hole into the engine compartment. The problem is that in order to get it out, you also need to loosen the large dash board running the width of the car. And that's where we start next.
  10. Remove the small panel to the right of the steering wheel that contains the headlight height adjuster. It's held on by four clips so it's just a matter of gently prising it off and disconnecting the wiring.
  11. To the right, there are two air vents which connect to the drivers door when it's shut. You need to remove the plastic cover on the lower one. This is done by inserting a small blade against the two tongues (top and bottom) and levering them out slightly, which allows the vent to be removed.
  12. You can now remove the four screws which were hidden by the air vent and panel you've just removed as shown in the photos below and this will allow you to remove the lower dash panel.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement18.jpg ( 25.25k ) Number of downloads: 134

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement19.jpg ( 15.4k ) Number of downloads: 105
  13. The area to the right of the steering wheel now looks something like this.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement20.jpg ( 41.03k ) Number of downloads: 159


    Now remove the cluster of electrics which includes the yellow block in the picture. This will allow you to get to a bolt behind it. You will need to unclip the electric cable which crosses the area then remove two 8mm bolts which are underneath the flat plate. The position of the right hand bolt is arrowed.
  14. Now it's time to loosen the main dashboard running the width of the car by removing the four bolts holding it to the car frame. There are two in front of the passenger seat as arrowed in the photo.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement21.jpg ( 29.21k ) Number of downloads: 144


    And then one either side of the steering wheel. The right one is arrowed in the photos below.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement22.jpg ( 29.86k ) Number of downloads: 132


    You should now be able to lift up the front of the dash board a few inches.
  15. Now it's best to remove the back of the heater control panel, which is still attached to the central console. I'm not sure this is absolutely necessary, but makes some of the next steps easier and you do need to detach the blue cables. So undo the two screws on the top left and right and the unit will come away easily.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement23.jpg ( 39.46k ) Number of downloads: 152
  16. Now detach the three blue control cables. Do this by removing the screw which secures the outer sheath to the air assembly and then unclip the end from the lever its attached to. If you have any difficulties then you could detach them from the facia end.
  17. Undo wiring to fan (just above the passengers feet) and pull the cables through to the drivers side.
  18. Undo and remove the central air bag control box just in front of the gear stick (arrowed in the photo below).

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement24.jpg ( 39.11k ) Number of downloads: 145
  19. Underneath the heater system assembly there are two curved bits of ducting taking air to the rear. These are held in place with just one screw each and them they pull out.

    It may be worth while noting that the two funnel outlets going the drivers and passengers feet do not need to be removed. There are two screws visible but another one underneath which is impossible to undo (or even see) until the assembly is removed.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement25.jpg ( 45.64k ) Number of downloads: 216
  20. Now it's time to get under the bonnet. As I said at the beginning, there are two pipes which come from the heater assembly, through the bulkhead into the engine compartment where they connect to two water hoses. These hoses need to be disconnected.

    From the position of the pipe clips on my car, they were secured from below so if you have access to the underneath of the car, I suggest you try to get to them by this route. I was repairing my car on the drive and didn't have access underneath so I had to remove the battery, then the battery shelf (4 bolts) and get access round the back of the engine that way.

    You might like to bung up the open pipes to stop water coming out over the inside of you car when you remove the heater assembly (I didn't think of this at the time!).

  21. Were now ready to remove the bolts securing the large air and heater system assembly.

    Remove the two bolts, one either side of the central body connecting it to the metal dash board frame. Arrows below show the left had side bolt and one on the fan unit.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement26.jpg ( 42.83k ) Number of downloads: 179


    There's another bolt to be undone underneath and to the right of the fan unit.
  22. Now at last you should be ready to remove the large air management system assembly shown below (once removed).

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement27.jpg ( 37.69k ) Number of downloads: 160


    You should satisfy yourself there's nothing else stopping it coming out. Check that you've disconnected at the cables going to it and then gently prise the unit away from the bulkhead, towards you.

    This is tricky because, where the vents on the assembly connect to other vents, they are sealed with sticky foam gaskets. So there will be some resistance. You also need to raise the front of the top dash board a little.

    But with a little perseverance the whole assembly will come away and you can take it to you work bench or wherever.
  23. From here it's relatively simple to dismantle. Remove the two pipes from the HR manifold. Then dismantle the heater assembly. You will have to take to top off in order to get at the screws inside which join the two halves together.

    Attached File  HeaterMatrixRadiatorReplacement28.jpg ( 40.12k ) Number of downloads: 168


    And now finally the Heater Radiator will side out and you can replace it.
  24. At the start I suggested you devise some system for keeping track of all the bits you removed. Whether you relied on memory or a series of labels and numbered plastic bags like me, now it's time to see how your system works, because it's time to reverse the procedure to reassemble you car. I was left with one small screw, which I must have omitted from somewhere. I hope you can do better.
Good luck.




as much as this is helpful i rely dont want 2 strip down my car just so i can put a cable on no3.gif must be a better way 2 sort it
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PhilipAlfa
post 20th January 2013 09:08
Post #17 | Print


1.4 16v
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Group: Regular
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Local Time: 25th September 2018 09:10
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Driving: 145 Cloverleaf & SZ
From: Buckinghamshire



QUOTE(lil lee @ 17th January 2013 08:23) *
as much as this is helpful i rely dont want 2 strip down my car just so i can put a cable on no3.gif must be a better way 2 sort it


I look forward to seeing your how-to then wink.gif
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probs
post 12th September 2018 17:04
Post #18 | Print


1.3 8v
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Local Time: 25th September 2018 09:10
Member No.: 13,485
Driving: 145
From: Macedonia



I own an Alfa Romeo 145 1.4 with boxer engine.

The antifreeze is leaking (even the floor on the drivers side was wet) and causing a smell when the heating is on.
I was told that I should replace the heater matrix, but that there were 2 types of it. One with a valve and one without? Is that true? I don't know which one my car has.

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shpuncik
post 12th September 2018 19:05
Post #19 | Print


1.3 8v
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Group: Member
Posts: 98
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Driving: 145 1.6 Boxer; 145 1.9JTD Edizione Sportiva
From: Lithuania



QUOTE(probs @ 12th September 2018 18:04) *
I own an Alfa Romeo 145 1.4 with boxer engine.

The antifreeze is leaking (even the floor on the drivers side was wet) and causing a smell when the heating is on.
I was told that I should replace the heater matrix, but that there were 2 types of it. One with a valve and one without? Is that true? I don't know which one my car has.


you could try checking with your VIN at eper.pekidi.com
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