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purple
post 23rd May 2006 08:36
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QUOTE(hazeyblue @ May 21 2006, 07:46 PM)
The temp sender unit could be the culprit... mine has just been changed due to lumpy running.
*


I was thinking the same, they can go in to a on/off sort of mode and way overfuel it when cold causing hesitation, then once the engine is hot it switches and is then fine. At about £12 its cheap place to start and many on here have had to replace it.

HTH
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GialloEvo94
post 23rd May 2006 10:12
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QUOTE(Cruiser @ May 23 2006, 09:29 AM)
I have been looking at the same things, with regard to removig the MAF there seem to be a couple of alan key bolts, but with an upright piece preventing the use of a regular key to remove them. Is this a special tool job too? if so, where can they be bought from?
*

IIRC I think they're actually tamper-proof 'security torx' headed screws (star shaped slot with a pin in the middle). You will probably struggle to get keys for these down your local motor factors but you will definately get some from somewhere like screwfix like these (guaranteed next day delivery) or from this list on eBay.

QUOTE
If I were to just unplug the Lamda, would that be a resonable diagnostic test?

To determine a possible problem with the lambda, you can just unplug it and go for a drive in the same way you did with the unplugged MAF.


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Uberf1end
post 23rd May 2006 16:36
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Thanks all.

I have a plastic top.


Pardon my ignorance, where does the temperature sender live?

Also, was that £12 from Alfa & does anyone happen to have a part no.?




Demanding little b**ger aren't I?
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GialloEvo94
post 23rd May 2006 16:56
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QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 23 2006, 05:36 PM)
Pardon my ignorance, where does the temperature sender live?
*

Temp sensor/sender is screwed into the top of the thermostat which is mounted on the right-hand side of the cylinder head (has large water pipes coming out of it) smile.gif

The temp sensor is the thing covered with masking tape on the far right-hand side in this pic...



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Mark Langmead
post 23rd May 2006 18:27
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I can feel for you, mine's been doing the exact same & it's been driving me mad for weeks/months....just read through the post, tried it out & hey presto everything seems fine - guess the real test is in the morning when she's cold again!!!

Anyone know of an alternative to proper contact cleaner? Like WD40 or something, I've got plenty of that!!!

One question for the more initiated out there, should my injector light remain on if I've disconnected the MAF? It normally goes off with the Airbag Light but stays on now.....?
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GialloEvo94
post 23rd May 2006 19:59
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QUOTE(Mark Langmead @ May 23 2006, 07:27 PM)
One question for the more initiated out there, should my injector light remain on if I've disconnected the MAF? It normally goes off with the Airbag Light but stays on now.....?
*

With the MAF disconnected the injector light will stay on because it is has detected an open circuit on one of the sensors (the MAF in this case). Plug the MAF back in and start the engine and after a few seconds the injector light will go off again...unless you have a detected open circuit or problem with another sensor of course.


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Uberf1end
post 23rd May 2006 21:44
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Excellent, thanks.

Giallo - have you put together a catalogue of pictures of your entire car? Everytime I ask a question, you have a photo of the relevant part!

Obviously, I am not complaining - I am simply amazed (and thankful biggrin.gif ) at your dedication/efficiency!
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hazeyblue
post 23rd May 2006 21:55
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QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 23 2006, 09:44 PM)
Obviously, I am not complaining - I am simply amazed (and thankful  biggrin.gif ) at your dedication/efficiency!
*

I'd second that... very clear, informative and interesting t' boot. cool.gif
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GialloEvo94
post 23rd May 2006 23:04
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QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 23 2006, 10:44 PM)
Giallo - have you put together a catalogue of pictures of your entire car? Everytime I ask a question, you have a photo of the relevant part!

Obviously, I am not complaining - I am simply amazed (and thankful  biggrin.gif ) at your dedication/efficiency!
*

cool.gif I try to keep a comprehesive photo log of every major job I do but I think I went a little overboard when I did the top-end rebuild because I seem to have over 250 photos of almost every part of the head components and the engine bay laugh.gif At least they seem to be coming in useful though biggrin.gif

I always believe in the old cliché that a picture paints a thousand words biggrin.gif


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Uberf1end
post 24th May 2006 18:06
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"I always believe in the old cliché that a picture paints a thousand words biggrin.gif"

Damn right it does! Especially yours - I have always found that Haynes pictures left a lot to be desired, partly because they are B&W but also because the don't show the wider 'context' so you often cannot work out what you are looking at. However, I am finding your assistance priceless thumbup.gif


Ordered my sensor today so I should know this weekend whether I need to replace the MAF or Lambda.

Anyone know what the cost will be if the Lambda is the culprit (and is it as easy to change as the other bits)?
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GialloEvo94
post 24th May 2006 22:23
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QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 24 2006, 07:06 PM)
Anyone know what the cost will be if the Lambda is the culprit (and is it as easy to change as the other bits)?
*

The Alfa lambda is a Bosch one but don't get it from Alfa as they will rip you off (as usual angry.gif).

You can get a Bosch direct fit one from HERE (£90), an NGK direct fit one from HERE (£61) or a generic 4-wire one from eBay HERE (£20). The generic ones don't have a plug on and require you to either hard-wire them in of cut the plug off the end of your old one and wire it onto the generic sensor wires so it obviously involves some more work. A few people on here have fitted the generic ones with no problems so it's really your call which one you go for smile.gif

It's mounted on top of the exhaust manifold where it goes under the car. Just follow the exhaust pipe through the bracket on the bottom of the sump and it is just a bit further along on top of the pipe (you will see the wires coming from it). Sorry, I'm afraid I've let the side down this time as I don't have any pictures of it's location laugh.gif Jack up the driver's side of the car onto an axle stand and you should be able to get to it fairly easily. As it's mounted in a hot pipe that is forever expanding and contracting, it might be a bit stuborn to get out so it will help if you use lots of WD40 and let it soak in before trying to use a spanner on it. If it still won't budge then cut the top off so you can get a 22mm socket on it then use a big lever if required smile.gif


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Uberf1end
post 25th May 2006 07:40
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Once again, thanks very much biggrin.gif
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DC146
post 10th June 2006 07:59
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Dont know if it helps but i asked kind of the same question on the thread "cars hesitant for the 1st mile". I was told hear that this is quite normal and its the engines way of not letting you thrash it hard for the 1st mile. Im quite new to alfas, had it about 2 months but the cars always been the same.

worth a look matey.
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cerrone
post 30th May 2007 08:17
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QUOTE(DC146 @ 10th June 2006 09:59) *
Dont know if it helps but i asked kind of the same question on the thread "cars hesitant for the 1st mile". I was told hear that this is quite normal and its the engines way of not letting you thrash it hard for the 1st mile. Im quite new to alfas, had it about 2 months but the cars always been the same.

worth a look matey.


I tend to agree with you there DC146, as my cab does the same for the first few hundred metres.Here in SA, quite a few car manufacters have implemented that system on cold startup and makes perfect sense.
I don't ever let my car idle to warm it up, I start it and pull off..............up until 2500rpm it revs cleanly and if pushed a bit further the hunting will be evident, as said before, this is for the first couple of 100 metres, once the needle moves just slightly passed the 40degree mark, its all fully operational....well I hardly ever push it up until it reaches more or less the 70 degrees mark.

HTH wink.gif
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robbie
post 23rd October 2007 09:23
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heya guys ive been reading this threat with interest.
i have a similar problem as the car is juddery while driving,it is sometimes a violant judder.
it seems to be worse when warm,
my engine is the old boxer 1.6 type(not as posh as you guys tongue.gif)
any help would be gratefull
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astro
post 25th February 2009 22:14
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wish i read these earlier .. unplugged my MAF today to test on the drive to work. and the hesitation at full throttle i have was nowhere to be seen, the car was not losing power on hills it just roared up them. was a bitch at stable revving in the border queue so plugged it back in when i stopped and vowed to get a replacement.


so first question , will running with a non working MAF mess up anything else? its been slow over the months but nothing major.

so went the the whole faq tonight and found some other things out like why the clutch peddle sometimes doesnt return and checked the slave clyinder location and sure enough its got a puddle beneath it.

also planning to change temp sensor as it seems to cheap not to.

also after checking this part of the site i have discovered a shopping bill of £500 from shop4parts ( not including HP steering hose from pump) of things to do. its going to be a happy spring time, with so much to do biggrin.gif i can now leave the wife to rearrange the furniture whilst im down in the garage doing good and drinking beer and shouting and fixing the motor, like men do.

the £500 is based on ;
S4P1323 - Rocker Cover Gasket £20.36 £20.36
S4P1056 - Air Flow Meter £125.64 £125.64
S4P641 - Camshaft Advance Variator £79.02 £79.02
S4P1899 - Timing Belt Kit £86.67 £86.67
S4P905 - Spark Plug (14mm) £8.68 £34.72
S4P906 - Spark Plug (10mm) £8.68 £34.72
S4P184 - Clutch Slave Cylinder £30.10 £30.10



Subtotal: £411.23
Shipping Cost:
for UK Mainland £7.95
VAT: £62.88
Total: £482.06

and need a new aux belt, and they will all have to be sent to sunny spain.

cant believe i spent 120 euros on brake pads at the local alfa/fiat dealer when i could have got them for £24 and then paid shipping to spain at a cheaper price!!! you live and learn i guess. and before you ask , local motor factors could not supply.


oh, and a replacement passenger door mirror (LHD) as it seems that holds the outside thermostat for the auto climate control thingy. that got totally wiped out via a door opening whilst my wife was on her way home. it was somebody elses van door that opened whilst parked up on side of the road ... so she declines to fund it. and funny enough so did the van driver!

great website still smile.gif. just wish i used it more and checked all the topics, threads and areas first whistle.gif

now i think of it,this section of the forum hates my wallet!!!!
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GialloEvo94
post 25th February 2009 22:25
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QUOTE(astro @ 25th February 2009 22:14) *
so first question , will running with a non working MAF mess up anything else? its been slow over the months but nothing major.

No it won't and it's perfectly safe to run with it disconnected although you may find that your fuel consumption suffers a bit as the ECU will be running on default "safe" values for air flow based on engine revs instead of actual air flow so usually ends up slightly over-fuelling the car which is safer than it running lean. Still best to replace the MAF ASAP though.

QUOTE(astro @ 25th February 2009 22:14) *
also after checking this part of the site i have discovered a shopping bill of £500 from shop4parts ( not including HP steering hose from pump) of things to do.

If you're buying anything from Shop4Parts then check the pinned threads at the top of the "Discounts and Group Buys" section for a 10% discount wink.gif


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GialloEvo94
post 25th February 2009 22:32
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And if you have the plastic top engine, you can get a genuine Bosch MAF at almost half the cost that Shop4Parts are charging (even with postage costs) by getting it from Italy...

http://www.italiaricambi.it/en/product/3/A...280-218-019.asp


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astro
post 25th February 2009 22:33
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discounts? yet another part i have not seen . . . yet wink.gif ty smile.gif

that said gazzafisher did offer some tooling for the maintanence at a wonderful price ( discount due to being part of this forum) i have yet to finish the deal on. my fault not his. been busy with moving house and money issues. but soon to complete as cambelt will need a change this august-ish time


2nd edit due to seeing a MAF at 70 euros!! happy days ahead smile.gif muchos gracias compadre biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by astro: 25th February 2009 22:40
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Cloverleaf76
post 25th February 2009 22:38
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QUOTE(astro @ 25th February 2009 23:14) *
the £500 is based on ;
S4P1323 - Rocker Cover Gasket £20.36 £20.36
S4P1056 - Air Flow Meter £125.64 £125.64
S4P641 - Camshaft Advance Variator £79.02 £79.02
S4P1899 - Timing Belt Kit £86.67 £86.67
S4P905 - Spark Plug (14mm) £8.68 £34.72
S4P906 - Spark Plug (10mm) £8.68 £34.72
S4P184 - Clutch Slave Cylinder £30.10 £30.10



Subtotal: £411.23
Shipping Cost:
for UK Mainland £7.95
VAT: £62.88
Total: £482.06

and need a new aux belt, and they will all have to be sent to sunny spain.


Did the junior have balancer shafts? If so you will need appropriate belt and tensioners too...
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