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> 146 water in the boot, Xmas-projects: Anyone?
dante giacosa
post 24th December 2018 10:21
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1.6 16v
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Local Time: 18th August 2019 02:25
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Driving: 146 CF2 1.8 T-spark
From: Edinburgh



Well,

Here's something I've never read about on here!

Some time ago (LAST Autumn in fact) I had the rear arch liners / wheels / back bumper off; and went nuts with my wire-brush-grinder & power-drill; and took every bit of corrosion I could see back to bare metal; before a huge POR 15 paint-up and underseal sealing layer.

I like to think the rear arches of my 146.gif will still be around in 100 years

Anyway- at the time; I noticed there was a bit of corrosion in the NS corner of the floor of the boot, localised around a couple of pressed-depressions in the floorpan for blanking-grommets. I thought nothing about this at the time, particularly as there were no signs of matching corrosion underneath.
I did however have a very good look at the OS, under the alarm- apparently a classic place for a surprise hole. However; in this case; mirroring the underside of the car; there was nothing.

So I continued to think nothing of this- the internal corrosion could be cleaned up 'whenever', but a year has gone past and I noticed that the rear of the car was steaming up in damp weather.
This obviously is a 'sign' and I pulled back the internal trim to examine the aforementioned pressed-depressions: and found the blanking grommets were wet.

So, I dried this up, and checked a week later; they were wet again, and then a week later; wet again.

So; thinking caps on. A wider check round the NS rear revealed not much except a legacy-soaked rear arch soundproofing carpet-moulding. I removed this indoors to dry out.
I started to think I had a leak down the C-pillar; from the join to the roof behind the NS rear-door, so I prepared to strip the roof lining and internal trim behind the door. Something I really didn't want to do.

HOWEVER- a bit of further observation led to the discovery of a single telltale drip on the very rear internal-side of one of the rear panels of the car: underneath the NS lightcluster.
A bit of contingency gaffer-tape; and the culprit is revealed!

The boot-lid drain-channels; either side of the boot itself; drain across the tops of the rear light clusters; see attached.

I added some tape across the top of the cluster; and the blanking-grommet depressions have been dry for weeks.

My Xmas-project is get these clusters out and review the sealing behind them.

This post has been edited by dante giacosa: 24th December 2018 23:22
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VROOM
post 24th December 2018 22:24
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1.4 16v
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Driving: BRERA, GIULIETTA, 145QV
From: FLINTSHIRE UK



No such problem with the 145 luckily because the light clusters are on the rear hatch, well except for the indicators. How have you found the POR15? I pretty much did all of the car's corrosion spots with that stuff and had mixed results. For example, the underside of the boot floor where it meets the rear panel behind the bumper - I took this back to clean metal with an angle grinder wire brush, used the POR degreaser, metal prep, POR15, primer, top coat and finally bilthamber wax. The car hasn't seen water since and that was nearly a year ago, yet there's tiny rust spots appearing through the wax. They'er almost like pin pr*ck dots of orange. I friend of mine had similar experiences with it and wouldn't use it again. Incredibly, the rear trailing arms which I just slapped it onto in order to use up my can with no prep apart from a rough wire brushing are still completely clean. It's as though the rustier the better for POR15 to work properly.
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dante giacosa
post 24th December 2018 23:21
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1.6 16v
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Local Time: 18th August 2019 02:25
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Driving: 146 CF2 1.8 T-spark
From: Edinburgh



You used the Bilt & Hamber wax, Vroom? Nobody could say you didn't try then- that's the real thing. I just used the Hammerite underbody-sealant.

I've got to be honest- nothing I ever did with the POR15 ever came back.

But I am regularly accused of being a perfectionist on technique.

I wouldnt complete the whole process in anything short of about four days. I usually do the grind-back in a three sittings, then once into the degreaser & rinse off- I give that a day to dry.
Likewise with the metal-etch primer.

And it always needs two coats that stuff; the top coat.

But I have heard similar reports of problems re-occurring; which is odd; as the stuff dries like black-glass. It's hard to imagine what could get through that layer!

Yeah- I actually noticed the other day that my efforts had been predominantly at either side and I'd missed that boot-floor to bumper-panel seam myself. That'll have to be in the Spring.
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VROOM
post 26th December 2018 23:31
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1.4 16v
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Group: Regular
Posts: 133
Joined: 11th June 2017
Local Time: 18th August 2019 02:25
Member No.: 13,153
Driving: BRERA, GIULIETTA, 145QV
From: FLINTSHIRE UK



The only thing I can think of is that there must have been some condensation on the clean metal. I really went to work on the rest of the floor pan. POR15 on the rusted patches on one side, bilthamber rust convertor on the other (just to see which is best). Both sides then had primer, topcoat, 2 coats of hammerite underseal, a coat of high solids bilterhamber wax followed by a layer of bilhamber underseal wax. This final layer just leaves the underside with a non-tacky tough coating that seals in the other layers. I'll have to do this with the boot seam in the spring I think.

This post has been edited by VROOM: 26th December 2018 23:32
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