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Alfa Romeo 145 - 146 Forum _ FAQ _ Afm / Maf

Posted by: Uberf1end 20th May 2006 10:47

I have recently noticed a minor annoyance with my QV that I would appreciate some advice on.

It is quite hard to describe exactly what it does but I will try. When I accelerate from cold, the engine fails to deliver the power I am asking for. If I let the throttle off and reapply, often it will accelerate as it should but if I keep my foot in, it labours for a bit then delivers the correct power.

It still accelerates throughout but just feels like everything in the engine is moving in slow motion or struggling through soup. It feels like fuel is not being delivered in the requisite quantity.

Once warm, it is fine.

Does this sound like classic air flow meter issues?

If so, where would I find the b**ger to give it a clean?


Also, is a MAF just an AFM for dyslexics? wink.gif

Posted by: F355 20th May 2006 12:08

It does sound like either MAF or Lambda by your description, probably more MAF. Does it ever 'judder' while driving?

AFM and MAF are the same things.

It can be found just above the battery and it looks like this with the induction piping connecting either side:



Clean it with circuit board cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol avaliable at Mapins amoung other places smile.gif

Posted by: GialloEvo94 20th May 2006 12:11

You probably already seen numerous post on here about disconnecting the AFM/MAF so I suggest you do this and take the car for a drive to see if it makes a difference. You will find it in the pipe that goes from the airbox on the right-hand side of the engine to the throttle body housing. The electical connection is on the top. Just simply unplug it. If this doesn't work then try the same test of driving the car with the lambda disconnected instead.

Anyway, to answer your question an AFM's / MAF's, AFM's use a fairly crude method of measuring the air flow while MAF's use a more sophisticated and precise way of measuring the air flow. They each work in the following way...

AFM (Air Flow Meter)
This just measures the flow with a kind of crude spring-loaded 'door' mechanism where the door operates a variable resistor. The value of resistance is set on the variable resistor by the amount the 'door' is open by and this resistance is used to determine the air flow.

MAF (Mass Air Flow)
This uses 2 wires, one cold and one heated. In very basic terms, the passing of air over the wires cools the hot wire and the difference in temperature between the hot and cold wire is used to determine the air flow.

Posted by: Uberf1end 20th May 2006 13:49

Interesting, thanks.

It does judder a little too...So, I'll take a look.

On some of the other threads, people talk about 'not touching the wires', why so?

I'll go for AFM first but, if no joy, I take it the Lambda is tucked away atop the exhaust manifold, close to the engine?

Posted by: GialloEvo94 20th May 2006 14:02

QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 20 2006, 02:49 PM)
I'll go for AFM first but, if no joy, I take it the Lambda is tucked away atop the exhaust manifold, close to the engine?
*

The lambda connection is the 4-wire black connector on top of the intake manifold in the centre of this picture...


Posted by: Uberf1end 20th May 2006 14:31

Thanks, the black one to the left of the white one? (just right of centre).

Posted by: GialloEvo94 20th May 2006 15:50

QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 20 2006, 03:31 PM)
Thanks, the black one to the left of the white one? (just right of centre).

yep smile.gif

Posted by: F355 20th May 2006 18:14

GE's pic is for the later phase two (plastic top) engine. If yours is the earlier ally top engine the lambda connection is under a black cover against the bulkhead, but it has exactly the same connector.

Don't touch the wires on the MAF because you can get grease on them from your finger which can damage them further smile.gif

Posted by: Uberf1end 21st May 2006 09:14

Thanks.

I can't believe I am having to post this but I cannot get the clips undone that attach the intake pipes either side of the AFM angry.gif

They seem a fairly simple clip together mechanism but they have a sort of channel with a sliding tab in it. They have CLIC-R (IIRC) written next to them. A glance around the engine bay demostrates that I am going to need to work the pesky little b**gers out - is there a trick to them?

I feel slightly retarded but I don't want to risk brute force as it I break anything the only chance I would have of replacing it today would be Halfrauds....

Posted by: GialloEvo94 21st May 2006 09:31

QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 21 2006, 10:14 AM)
I can't believe I am having to post this but I cannot get the clips undone that attach the intake pipes either side of the AFM  angry.gif

They seem a fairly simple clip together mechanism but they have a sort of channel with a sliding tab in it. They have CLIC-R (IIRC) written next to them. A glance around the engine bay demostrates that I am going to need to work the pesky little b**gers out - is there a trick to them?

I feel slightly retarded but I don't want to risk brute force as it I break anything the only chance I would have of replacing it today would be Halfrauds....
*

Squeeze them together with a pair of pliers then use a small flat-ended screwdriver to prise the clip open. They're also not so easy to clip together again either (especially the tiny ones) so I suggest that when putting everything back together you just replace them with some standard jubilee clips of the same diameter biggrin.gif

Posted by: F355 21st May 2006 12:07

QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ May 21 2006, 09:31 AM)
QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 21 2006, 10:14 AM)
I can't believe I am having to post this but I cannot get the clips undone that attach the intake pipes either side of the AFM  angry.gif

They seem a fairly simple clip together mechanism but they have a sort of channel with a sliding tab in it. They have CLIC-R (IIRC) written next to them. A glance around the engine bay demostrates that I am going to need to work the pesky little b**gers out - is there a trick to them?

I feel slightly retarded but I don't want to risk brute force as it I break anything the only chance I would have of replacing it today would be Halfrauds....
*

Squeeze them together with a pair of pliers then use a small flat-ended screwdriver to prise the clip open. They're also not so easy to clip together again either (especially the tiny ones) so I suggest that when putting everything back together you just replace them with some standard jubilee clips of the same diameter biggrin.gif
*



This is where buying the proper tool or modifying a pair of pliers saves you a few hours tongue.gif and the cost of new jubilee clips.

I suppose you are replacing itcompletly though? Youdon't need to remove it to clean the element. Just unscrew it from the top and it comes out.

Posted by: Uberf1end 21st May 2006 18:13

Right, I've had the AFM out, sprayed it all over with Halfords Electrical Contact Cleaner and given it a rub with cotton buds. No dirt or grease appeared to come off it and it looked in good nick so I put it back and went for a drive.

This is where it got interesting - the problem (sluggish acceleration and a 'labouring' feeling) was even more noticeable than usual. So, I pulled over and disconnected the AFM...she then ran really sweetly. That's it I thought, it must be bu**ered.

So I pulled over and plugged it back in...the problem didn't return. So, I am thinking that the problem only seems to exist when cold (once I had run it with the meter disconnected, it was nice and warm by the time I plugged it back in).

Thinking back to my first test yesterday, I disconnected the meter and drove it from cold and it was fine.

So, it is likely that the AFM could have difficulty ONLY when the car is cold?

Also, is it likely that the car feeling so good is simply a result of it running rich - am I going to be disappointed with a new AFM?

It was so sweet with the meter unplugged that I am almost resolved to buy a new one anyway but I would like to be sure first!





As for those clips...ridiculous creations, I intend to replace all of them with jubilees ASAP.

Posted by: GialloEvo94 21st May 2006 18:37

When you plugged the MAF back in did you switch the engine off first or do it with the engine running? Regardless though, if she did run fine both cold and hot with the MAF disconnected then it is definately the MAF which is the cause of your problem.

I believe the reason for those ridiculous clips is not just to make life difficult for us DIYers but more for the reason that they only have one 'closed' setting so when clipped up they put the correct amount of pressure on the joint as they can't be overtighted (unlike jubilee clips which can) blink.gif

Posted by: hazeyblue 21st May 2006 18:46

The temp sender unit could be the culprit... mine has just been changed due to lumpy running.

Posted by: Uberf1end 21st May 2006 21:18

Engine was off each time I plugged/unplugged.

The more I read, the more I become convinced it is the MAF.

I am going to do some further tests and give it another good clean (I cleaned it in situ so I'll be a bit more thorough next time) before I shell out £120 for another.

However, for future reference, am I right to assume that any garage with a decent diagnostics machine could spot whether the MAF, the lambda or the temperature sender are faulty?

Posted by: GialloEvo94 21st May 2006 21:54

I believe the MAF only shows up as a fault on the diagnostics tester if it has failed completely, not if it is still working (even if so badly). Not sure about the other sensors...maybe the same? unsure.gif The ECU usually logs a fault on a sensor if it detects an open circuit on that sensor (i.e. disconnected) or the resistance on that sensor falls outside the expected tolerance range (failed or failing sensor).

Posted by: hazeyblue 21st May 2006 22:11

QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 21 2006, 09:18 PM)
However, for future reference, am I right to assume that any garage with a decent diagnostics machine could spot whether the MAF, the lambda or the temperature sender are faulty?
*

Lambda and Temp Sender will show up faults on the diagnostic - it's how I knew mine were kaput. However, not too sure about the MAF.

I will be speaking to my Alfa indi garage tomorrow - I will ask about the MAF...

Posted by: Dodger 22nd May 2006 08:26

QUOTE(hazeyblue @ May 21 2006, 06:46 PM)
The temp sender unit could be the culprit... mine has just been changed due to lumpy running.
*


I would be thinking about changing the temp sender too. They are about £12 and are 5 minute change. It sounds like your car might not be using the cold setting and only using the hot mixture causing problems.

Posted by: paulcanning69 22nd May 2006 08:39

have you got a alloy or plastic top engine

Posted by: Cruiser 23rd May 2006 08:29

I have been looking at the same things, with regard to removig the MAF there seem to be a couple of alan key bolts, but with an upright piece preventing the use of a regular key to remove them. Is this a special tool job too? if so, where can they be bought from?

If I were to just unplug the Lamda, would that be a resonable diagnostic test? local mechanic mate of mine reckons that a lamda is likely to cause rough running/jerkyness, the MAF will cause sluggish, gutless performance.

Ed

Ed

Posted by: purple 23rd May 2006 08:36

QUOTE(hazeyblue @ May 21 2006, 07:46 PM)
The temp sender unit could be the culprit... mine has just been changed due to lumpy running.
*


I was thinking the same, they can go in to a on/off sort of mode and way overfuel it when cold causing hesitation, then once the engine is hot it switches and is then fine. At about £12 its cheap place to start and many on here have had to replace it.

HTH

Posted by: GialloEvo94 23rd May 2006 10:12

QUOTE(Cruiser @ May 23 2006, 09:29 AM)
I have been looking at the same things, with regard to removig the MAF there seem to be a couple of alan key bolts, but with an upright piece preventing the use of a regular key to remove them. Is this a special tool job too? if so, where can they be bought from?
*

IIRC I think they're actually tamper-proof 'security torx' headed screws (star shaped slot with a pin in the middle). You will probably struggle to get keys for these down your local motor factors but you will definately get some from somewhere like screwfix like http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=18983&ts=78834 (guaranteed next day delivery) or from http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=security+torx on eBay.

QUOTE
If I were to just unplug the Lamda, would that be a resonable diagnostic test?

To determine a possible problem with the lambda, you can just unplug it and go for a drive in the same way you did with the unplugged MAF.

Posted by: Uberf1end 23rd May 2006 16:36

Thanks all.

I have a plastic top.


Pardon my ignorance, where does the temperature sender live?

Also, was that £12 from Alfa & does anyone happen to have a part no.?




Demanding little b**ger aren't I?

Posted by: GialloEvo94 23rd May 2006 16:56

QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 23 2006, 05:36 PM)
Pardon my ignorance, where does the temperature sender live?
*

Temp sensor/sender is screwed into the top of the thermostat which is mounted on the right-hand side of the cylinder head (has large water pipes coming out of it) smile.gif

The temp sensor is the thing covered with masking tape on the far right-hand side in this pic...


Posted by: Mark Langmead 23rd May 2006 18:27

I can feel for you, mine's been doing the exact same & it's been driving me mad for weeks/months....just read through the post, tried it out & hey presto everything seems fine - guess the real test is in the morning when she's cold again!!!

Anyone know of an alternative to proper contact cleaner? Like WD40 or something, I've got plenty of that!!!

One question for the more initiated out there, should my injector light remain on if I've disconnected the MAF? It normally goes off with the Airbag Light but stays on now.....?

Posted by: GialloEvo94 23rd May 2006 19:59

QUOTE(Mark Langmead @ May 23 2006, 07:27 PM)
One question for the more initiated out there, should my injector light remain on if I've disconnected the MAF? It normally goes off with the Airbag Light but stays on now.....?
*

With the MAF disconnected the injector light will stay on because it is has detected an open circuit on one of the sensors (the MAF in this case). Plug the MAF back in and start the engine and after a few seconds the injector light will go off again...unless you have a detected open circuit or problem with another sensor of course.

Posted by: Uberf1end 23rd May 2006 21:44

Excellent, thanks.

Giallo - have you put together a catalogue of pictures of your entire car? Everytime I ask a question, you have a photo of the relevant part!

Obviously, I am not complaining - I am simply amazed (and thankful biggrin.gif ) at your dedication/efficiency!

Posted by: hazeyblue 23rd May 2006 21:55

QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 23 2006, 09:44 PM)
Obviously, I am not complaining - I am simply amazed (and thankful  biggrin.gif ) at your dedication/efficiency!
*

I'd second that... very clear, informative and interesting t' boot. cool.gif

Posted by: GialloEvo94 23rd May 2006 23:04

QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 23 2006, 10:44 PM)
Giallo - have you put together a catalogue of pictures of your entire car? Everytime I ask a question, you have a photo of the relevant part!

Obviously, I am not complaining - I am simply amazed (and thankful  biggrin.gif ) at your dedication/efficiency!
*

cool.gif I try to keep a comprehesive photo log of every major job I do but I think I went a little overboard when I did the top-end rebuild because I seem to have over 250 photos of almost every part of the head components and the engine bay laugh.gif At least they seem to be coming in useful though biggrin.gif

I always believe in the old cliché that a picture paints a thousand words biggrin.gif

Posted by: Uberf1end 24th May 2006 18:06

"I always believe in the old cliché that a picture paints a thousand words biggrin.gif"

Damn right it does! Especially yours - I have always found that Haynes pictures left a lot to be desired, partly because they are B&W but also because the don't show the wider 'context' so you often cannot work out what you are looking at. However, I am finding your assistance priceless thumbup.gif


Ordered my sensor today so I should know this weekend whether I need to replace the MAF or Lambda.

Anyone know what the cost will be if the Lambda is the culprit (and is it as easy to change as the other bits)?

Posted by: GialloEvo94 24th May 2006 22:23

QUOTE(Uberf1end @ May 24 2006, 07:06 PM)
Anyone know what the cost will be if the Lambda is the culprit (and is it as easy to change as the other bits)?
*

The Alfa lambda is a Bosch one but don't get it from Alfa as they will rip you off (as usual angry.gif).

You can get a Bosch direct fit one from http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/alfa.htm (£90), an NGK direct fit one from http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/alfantk.htm (£61) or a generic 4-wire one from eBay http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll?satitle=universal+lambda (£20). The generic ones don't have a plug on and require you to either hard-wire them in of cut the plug off the end of your old one and wire it onto the generic sensor wires so it obviously involves some more work. A few people on here have fitted the generic ones with no problems so it's really your call which one you go for smile.gif

It's mounted on top of the exhaust manifold where it goes under the car. Just follow the exhaust pipe through the bracket on the bottom of the sump and it is just a bit further along on top of the pipe (you will see the wires coming from it). Sorry, I'm afraid I've let the side down this time as I don't have any pictures of it's location laugh.gif Jack up the driver's side of the car onto an axle stand and you should be able to get to it fairly easily. As it's mounted in a hot pipe that is forever expanding and contracting, it might be a bit stuborn to get out so it will help if you use lots of WD40 and let it soak in before trying to use a spanner on it. If it still won't budge then cut the top off so you can get a 22mm socket on it then use a big lever if required smile.gif

Posted by: Uberf1end 25th May 2006 07:40

Once again, thanks very much biggrin.gif

Posted by: DC146 10th June 2006 07:59

Dont know if it helps but i asked kind of the same question on the thread "cars hesitant for the 1st mile". I was told hear that this is quite normal and its the engines way of not letting you thrash it hard for the 1st mile. Im quite new to alfas, had it about 2 months but the cars always been the same.

worth a look matey.

Posted by: cerrone 30th May 2007 08:17

QUOTE(DC146 @ 10th June 2006 09:59) *
Dont know if it helps but i asked kind of the same question on the thread "cars hesitant for the 1st mile". I was told hear that this is quite normal and its the engines way of not letting you thrash it hard for the 1st mile. Im quite new to alfas, had it about 2 months but the cars always been the same.

worth a look matey.


I tend to agree with you there DC146, as my cab does the same for the first few hundred metres.Here in SA, quite a few car manufacters have implemented that system on cold startup and makes perfect sense.
I don't ever let my car idle to warm it up, I start it and pull off..............up until 2500rpm it revs cleanly and if pushed a bit further the hunting will be evident, as said before, this is for the first couple of 100 metres, once the needle moves just slightly passed the 40degree mark, its all fully operational....well I hardly ever push it up until it reaches more or less the 70 degrees mark.

HTH wink.gif

Posted by: robbie 23rd October 2007 09:23

heya guys ive been reading this threat with interest.
i have a similar problem as the car is juddery while driving,it is sometimes a violant judder.
it seems to be worse when warm,
my engine is the old boxer 1.6 type(not as posh as you guys tongue.gif)
any help would be gratefull

Posted by: astro 25th February 2009 22:14

wish i read these earlier .. unplugged my MAF today to test on the drive to work. and the hesitation at full throttle i have was nowhere to be seen, the car was not losing power on hills it just roared up them. was a bitch at stable revving in the border queue so plugged it back in when i stopped and vowed to get a replacement.


so first question , will running with a non working MAF mess up anything else? its been slow over the months but nothing major.

so went the the whole faq tonight and found some other things out like why the clutch peddle sometimes doesnt return and checked the slave clyinder location and sure enough its got a puddle beneath it.

also planning to change temp sensor as it seems to cheap not to.

also after checking this part of the site i have discovered a shopping bill of £500 from shop4parts ( not including HP steering hose from pump) of things to do. its going to be a happy spring time, with so much to do biggrin.gif i can now leave the wife to rearrange the furniture whilst im down in the garage doing good and drinking beer and shouting and fixing the motor, like men do.

the £500 is based on ;
S4P1323 - Rocker Cover Gasket £20.36 £20.36
S4P1056 - Air Flow Meter £125.64 £125.64
S4P641 - Camshaft Advance Variator £79.02 £79.02
S4P1899 - Timing Belt Kit £86.67 £86.67
S4P905 - Spark Plug (14mm) £8.68 £34.72
S4P906 - Spark Plug (10mm) £8.68 £34.72
S4P184 - Clutch Slave Cylinder £30.10 £30.10



Subtotal: £411.23
Shipping Cost:
for UK Mainland £7.95
VAT: £62.88
Total: £482.06

and need a new aux belt, and they will all have to be sent to sunny spain.

cant believe i spent 120 euros on brake pads at the local alfa/fiat dealer when i could have got them for £24 and then paid shipping to spain at a cheaper price!!! you live and learn i guess. and before you ask , local motor factors could not supply.


oh, and a replacement passenger door mirror (LHD) as it seems that holds the outside thermostat for the auto climate control thingy. that got totally wiped out via a door opening whilst my wife was on her way home. it was somebody elses van door that opened whilst parked up on side of the road ... so she declines to fund it. and funny enough so did the van driver!

great website still smile.gif. just wish i used it more and checked all the topics, threads and areas first whistle.gif

now i think of it,this section of the forum hates my wallet!!!!

Posted by: GialloEvo94 25th February 2009 22:25

QUOTE(astro @ 25th February 2009 22:14) *
so first question , will running with a non working MAF mess up anything else? its been slow over the months but nothing major.

No it won't and it's perfectly safe to run with it disconnected although you may find that your fuel consumption suffers a bit as the ECU will be running on default "safe" values for air flow based on engine revs instead of actual air flow so usually ends up slightly over-fuelling the car which is safer than it running lean. Still best to replace the MAF ASAP though.

QUOTE(astro @ 25th February 2009 22:14) *
also after checking this part of the site i have discovered a shopping bill of £500 from shop4parts ( not including HP steering hose from pump) of things to do.

If you're buying anything from Shop4Parts then check the pinned threads at the top of the "Discounts and Group Buys" section for a 10% discount wink.gif

Posted by: GialloEvo94 25th February 2009 22:32

And if you have the plastic top engine, you can get a genuine Bosch MAF at almost half the cost that Shop4Parts are charging (even with postage costs) by getting it from Italy...

http://www.italiaricambi.it/en/product/3/Airflow-Mass-Meter-Original-BOSCH-0280-218-019.asp

Posted by: astro 25th February 2009 22:33

discounts? yet another part i have not seen . . . yet wink.gif ty smile.gif

that said gazzafisher did offer some tooling for the maintanence at a wonderful price ( discount due to being part of this forum) i have yet to finish the deal on. my fault not his. been busy with moving house and money issues. but soon to complete as cambelt will need a change this august-ish time


2nd edit due to seeing a MAF at 70 euros!! happy days ahead smile.gif muchos gracias compadre biggrin.gif

Posted by: Cloverleaf76 25th February 2009 22:38

QUOTE(astro @ 25th February 2009 23:14) *
the £500 is based on ;
S4P1323 - Rocker Cover Gasket £20.36 £20.36
S4P1056 - Air Flow Meter £125.64 £125.64
S4P641 - Camshaft Advance Variator £79.02 £79.02
S4P1899 - Timing Belt Kit £86.67 £86.67
S4P905 - Spark Plug (14mm) £8.68 £34.72
S4P906 - Spark Plug (10mm) £8.68 £34.72
S4P184 - Clutch Slave Cylinder £30.10 £30.10



Subtotal: £411.23
Shipping Cost:
for UK Mainland £7.95
VAT: £62.88
Total: £482.06

and need a new aux belt, and they will all have to be sent to sunny spain.


Did the junior have balancer shafts? If so you will need appropriate belt and tensioners too...

Posted by: GialloEvo94 25th February 2009 22:39

QUOTE(Cloverleaf76 @ 25th February 2009 22:38) *
Did the junior have balancer shafts? If so you will need appropriate belt and tensioners too...

Only the 2.0 has balance shafts. The 1.8, 1.6 & 1.4 don't have these.

Posted by: astro 25th February 2009 22:53

as far as my junior knowledge goes ... its a standard 1.6 ts with a junior bagde on the side skirts and tail and the seats have "junior" embrioded (sp) in them

Posted by: astro 3rd March 2009 22:25

this may seem a simple question i already know the answer to but ill ask it anyway.

with the MAF unplugged: at idle the revs fluctuated like crazy .. and on pulling up through the revs .. e.g 3k in first/second gear going to 4k it kinda resists for an instant blurts for a bit, then kicks in. any release from the throttle in low revs gives a juddery feeling to the drive like running over bricks

im guessing the MAf is unplugged so ecu is throwing the "safe value/default value" of fuel in and other sensors are having fun trying to catch up. is this ok or is there something else that might be out of kilter? as in, regardless of maf in or out (is it just the fuel consuption that goes up( at 63p a litre it isnt that bad but would be nice to keep it as low as possible) , and the crazy reving is something else entirely?

when i put the MAF back in the revs still fluctuate, but very mildly.

side note; i have carefully cleaned the MAF on the weekend and have got some improvement. but not enough to stop me getting a replacement.

forgive me if that made no sense as the tuesday night vodka and cod4 mix are doing its magic, just scared theres more problems ahead as wife is watching her shoe shopping fly out the window for working car parts list, a list that seems ever growing.

Posted by: mistercarrera 13th August 2013 19:57

hi there if can any.one.help.me with this ..my car was always sluggish and wont be fine at all ..i have 146 ts 2.0 with maf 4pins i fit it yesterday a maf for volvo same number but the 3 ending number is different ..any way the car is alive again like new is that fine? with the ecu ! !!! please some suggestion i'll be thankfull

Posted by: GialloEvo94 13th August 2013 21:49

QUOTE(mistercarrera @ 13th August 2013 20:57) *
hi there if can any.one.help.me with this ..my car was always sluggish and wont be fine at all ..i have 146 ts 2.0 with maf 4pins i fit it yesterday a maf for volvo same number but the 3 ending number is different ..any way the car is alive again like new is that fine? with the ecu ! !!! please some suggestion i'll be thankfull

It sounds like you may have solved the problem. Keep an eye on the fuel consumption because if the MAF you've fitted doesn't have the correct calibration for the ECU then the fueling won't be very efficient.

What was the full part number of the MAF?

Posted by: mistercarrera 15th August 2013 20:59

hi again the part number is 280217102 for volvo the same one for hundai accent model 1995

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