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Alfa Romeo 145 - 146 Forum _ You & Your Car _ 145 2.0 cloverleaf 1996

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 30th March 2019 21:51

Just bought a new project on Ebay.

Posted by: JeremyG 31st March 2019 14:17

Hey Stevie - really glad it went to someone on here!

Did you view the car before bidding?

And when do you get your hands on it?

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 31st March 2019 19:58

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 31st March 2019 15:17) *
Hey Stevie - really glad it went to someone on here!

Did you view the car before bidding?

And when do you get your hands on it?



I'm just going on your recomnendation!! worshippy.gif


I'm taking a gamble on her, but my mate is a mechanic , ex mot tester, serial car restorer and bona fide 100% Italian, so I have him to fall back on.

My plan is:

I'm going to try to sort the rusted strut domes , by grinding into, see how deep the rust goes , and hopefully weld it with not too much bother.

Then I'm going to change the timing belt, water pump.

Full Service with spark plugs , flushing and swapping out all fluids

Then new strut covers , struts , dampers, spacers and eibach springs.

Hopefully that will be about it!? coolio.gif

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 31st March 2019 20:21

P.s. looking to arrange to collect for this coming Friday.

Posted by: dante giacosa 31st March 2019 23:15

Is that your mate with the Quattroporte, by any chance??!

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 1st April 2019 06:15

QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 1st April 2019 00:15) *
Is that your mate with the Quattroporte, by any chance??!



Yes, hes also very recently bought a 159 2.4 , 2008, bought it with 60k on the clock but timing belt snapped, engine bust, for £700.

He opened her up and the belt hadn't snapped but the tensioner slackened off , so timing had jumped a few , enough for valve impact, but the rockers are designed to fracture, so hes replaced a few rockers, new belt, and shes back on the road , £3k valuation!!

Posted by: dante giacosa 1st April 2019 08:23

He's SOME resource, your mate!

I wish I had his skills-

I'm always holding out for a 159 Q4, but that sounds ace also!

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 1st April 2019 08:25

QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 1st April 2019 09:23) *
He's SOME resource, your mate!

I wish I had his skills-

I'm always holding out for a 159 Q4, but that sounds ace also!



Yeh, I don't think he realises hes a genius.

Posted by: JeremyG 1st April 2019 08:28

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 31st March 2019 20:58) *
I'm just going on your recomnendation!! worshippy.gif
I'm taking a gamble on her, but my mate is a mechanic , ex mot tester, serial car restorer and bona fide 100% Italian, so I have him to fall back on.

My plan is:

I'm going to try to sort the rusted strut domes , by grinding into, see how deep the rust goes , and hopefully weld it with not too much bother.

Then I'm going to change the timing belt, water pump.

Full Service with spark plugs , flushing and swapping out all fluids

Then new strut covers , struts , dampers, spacers and eibach springs.

Hopefully that will be about it!? coolio.gif


Sounds like a plan!

And if you want a set of Eibach springs I have some - nearly new, and in their original box... let me know if you want more info!

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 1st April 2019 09:49

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 1st April 2019 09:28) *
Sounds like a plan!

And if you want a set of Eibach springs I have some - nearly new, and in their original box... let me know if you want more info!



Yes, what's the situation then re nearly new?

Posted by: JeremyG 1st April 2019 12:47

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 1st April 2019 10:49) *
Yes, what's the situation then re nearly new?


I bought these springs along with my set of black Speedline wheels and a few other odds and ends.

The seller told me they had been fitted but not used for long as he sold the car (removing the Eibachs and Speedlines beforehand). The springs are clean, but do have some surface scratches around the outer edges - I've tried to show this in the pics below.

Price new = just under £200. Yours for £60!



Posted by: STEVIE BOY 1st April 2019 13:01

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 1st April 2019 13:47) *
I bought these springs along with my set of black Speedline wheels and a few other odds and ends.

The seller told me they had been fitted but not used for long as he sold the car (removing the Eibachs and Speedlines beforehand). The springs are clean, but do have some surface scratches around the outer edges - I've tried to show this in the pics below.

Price new = just under £200. Yours for £60!





Ok, I'll have em, subject to only that the car doesn't shock me with anything when it arrives on Friday, so I will confirm for defo on Saturday. Where do you live if I want to come and get them? Or do you have any reason to pass by ashby de la zouch or coalville?

Posted by: JeremyG 1st April 2019 15:29

No massive rush, Steve. FYI I'm in Oxford, so probably 2hrs from you.


Posted by: dante giacosa 1st April 2019 15:46

(that's the view from Jeremy's living room...)

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 4th April 2019 09:29

Ooh, it's coming tomorrow afternoon.....

Posted by: JeremyG 4th April 2019 20:12

Exciting!

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 6th April 2019 16:56

The dude from shiply "we do not let people down!" let me down, shes supposed to be coming Sunday now.

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 8th April 2019 18:02

Somethings behind my fence.....

 

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 8th April 2019 20:14

How do I remove the abs sensor, is that supposed to be an Allen nut? Need to get a clear approach to bottom pinch nut.

 

Posted by: lancer778544 8th April 2019 21:53

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 8th April 2019 21:14) *
How do I remove the abs sensor, is that supposed to be an Allen nut? Need to get a clear approach to bottom pinch nut.


Hi Stevie,

I'm currently battling the same issue on my 145 boxer. It was originally an allen bolt but like all rusty allen bolts, its already rounded at the mere thought of you wanting to undo it. I tried welding another bolt to the top of it but it just sheared further down. In my case, the bolt was hardened so I've ordered a cobalt drill bit to try and get it to shift, otherwise I'll have to hold the new sensor in with a cable tie or something. On my car. the hole for the thread goes all the way through the knuckle with enough room at the end (I think) to put a nut if you did have to drill through the bolt and couldn't tap a new thread for whatever reason but I don't know if the knuckles on the boxer and twin sparks are different. My ABS sensor was badly cracked and stuck in place so I had to destroy it to get it out so you may not want to disturb it if you can help it.

Posted by: JeremyG 8th April 2019 23:11

I doubt youíll get the sensor out without destroying it.

(I had the same issue with my Spider last year.)

What condition is the pinch bolt head? You should be able to get a ring spanner on the nut end then a socket on the bolt head, right?

If the bolt head is rounded (as mine was), you could try drilling into the nut to split it. This is what I did - it takes a VERY long time though and needs a very hard drill bit.

Alternatively you could remove the entire strut and hub along with the lower arm, driveshaft and ABS sensor wiring then sort the pinch bolts out on the bench. Bit radical, but it would get you access to those turrets reasonably quickly...

Posted by: JeremyG 9th April 2019 06:55

QUOTE(lancer778544 @ 8th April 2019 22:53) *
Hi Stevie,

I'm currently battling the same issue on my 145 boxer. It was originally an allen bolt but like all rusty allen bolts, its already rounded at the mere thought of you wanting to undo it. I tried welding another bolt to the top of it but it just sheared further down. In my case, the bolt was hardened so I've ordered a cobalt drill bit to try and get it to shift, otherwise I'll have to hold the new sensor in with a cable tie or something. On my car. the hole for the thread goes all the way through the knuckle with enough room at the end (I think) to put a nut if you did have to drill through the bolt and couldn't tap a new thread for whatever reason but I don't know if the knuckles on the boxer and twin sparks are different. My ABS sensor was badly cracked and stuck in place so I had to destroy it to get it out so you may not want to disturb it if you can help it.


Welcome along, Lancer!

Is your boxer the one that sold on eBay a few weeks ago?

Posted by: lancer778544 9th April 2019 08:40

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 9th April 2019 07:55) *
Welcome along, Lancer!

Is your boxer the one that sold on eBay a few weeks ago?


Thanks for the welcome and neigh. Mine was rescued from Bristol about a year ago from one of my brother's colleagues, last on the road (well, last taxed anyway) in 2010. I tried to join the forum a little while ago but couldn't get past the depreciated CAPTCHA. I'll throw my own "You & Your Car" thread up soon smile.gif

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 9th April 2019 20:38

Thanks guys.

In the end I had to sacrifice the sensor. I sawed the side off, so I could get a socket on the lower pinch nut. My spanner couldnt budge it so needed my big ratchet.

Indeed the bolt heads were poor, but I hammered on a 15mm spiral cut bolt extractor socket attached to my smaller wrench, arm of which then jams against the brake disc, and it didn't move whilst my massive wrench was on the nut. I also blasted into smoke the plastic inside the pinch nuts with my induction heater.

Long story short both studs are out!

Tomorrow will be the great reveal as to how bad the suspension dome is on the nearside. The guy I bought it from said he had someone under seal it in the past , and he reckons he under sealed some damp dirt or something in the domes which caused the rust.

 

Posted by: JeremyG 10th April 2019 17:03

Great work! Fingers crossed that the turret is vaguely repairable. If not, you could consider Dante's route of getting an entire turret section cut out from a breaker and welding that in...

(And needless to say, when you re-fit the lower bolt, orient it with the head facing the ABS sensor...).


Posted by: STEVIE BOY 10th April 2019 19:34

Cheers

So , I'm no expert , but I think the dome is repairable , its localised to that area , you can push a flap of metal open as shown in one of the pics , but I'd say 90% of the total dome is is strong. I'm gonna grind it all clean to make 100% sure , then engage my nephew who's a professional welder (but industrial not automotive) to sort that missing bit out/and or the godfather of bolsover , my Italian mate/mechanic to advise.

 

Posted by: dante giacosa 10th April 2019 20:03

QUOTE(lancer778544 @ 8th April 2019 22:53) *
Hi Stevie,

I'm currently battling the same issue on my 145 boxer. It was originally an allen bolt but like all rusty allen bolts, its already rounded at the mere thought of you wanting to undo it. I tried welding another bolt to the top of it but it just sheared further down. In my case, the bolt was hardened so I've ordered a cobalt drill bit to try and get it to shift, otherwise I'll have to hold the new sensor in with a cable tie or something. On my car. the hole for the thread goes all the way through the knuckle with enough room at the end (I think) to put a nut if you did have to drill through the bolt and couldn't tap a new thread for whatever reason but I don't know if the knuckles on the boxer and twin sparks are different. My ABS sensor was badly cracked and stuck in place so I had to destroy it to get it out so you may not want to disturb it if you can help it.


This is quite common in Coupť land.

The ABS sensors are effectively not removeable. Or 'not salvageable' to be more accurate.

Classically they are drilled out, and replaced entirely.

Crikey- some effort Stevie!!? Good effort...

Posted by: lancer778544 10th April 2019 20:06

QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 10th April 2019 21:03) *
This is quite common in Coupť land.

The ABS sensors are effectively not removeable. Or 'not salvageable' to be more accurate.

Classically they are drilled out, and replaced entirely.


It definitely feels that way, especially with the amount of used knuckles I've seen that have the ABS sensor still attached.

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 12th April 2019 15:59

The car came with about 30 paint splatters on its bonnent, dark brown and black. Dark brown stuff came off with thinners and a bit of rubbing and scraping with finger nail, but the black stuff wouldn't budge , I had to get a razor on it and ping it off. Also had a bit of grey sealant on the bonnet. I assume former owner did some external house painting in its vicinity.

So I've washed it after that, clayed the bonnet, polished and waxed the bonnet, looks a lot better.

So I've decided to press ahead with full resto, ordered £350 worth of bits from autodoc, mainly suspension and brakes and a few other bits like new abs sensors and new boot struts.

So Jeremy will need to organise getting my hands on those springs.

 

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 13th April 2019 07:38

Just sorting some little bits before the main action starts.

Offside rear lamp housing was bodged into place with some double sided sticky pads. On taking off , looks like PO had tried to glue the bolts back on but it had failed so went for the pads option.

So I'm trying again the glue strategy but I drilled into the fitting a bit to create a better bed for the glue/nut, and used some activator to get it to go off well and proper.

Couldnt find one new for these 36400748, and there was one used in Portugal for silly money (£80).

 

Posted by: JeremyG 13th April 2019 11:02

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 12th April 2019 16:59) *
So Jeremy will need to organise getting my hands on those springs.


Sure - I have a few days off before Easter so I'm around most of the coming week & weekend...

Posted by: Ganz 14th April 2019 21:59

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 8th April 2019 21:14) *
How do I remove the abs sensor, is that supposed to be an Allen nut? Need to get a clear approach to bottom pinch nut.


With great difficulty laugh.gif My Allen bolt snapped off. I drilled through the remaining bit and then proceeded to lever the abs sensor off with a hefty screwdriver. It was seized solid! Even with no Allen bolt holding it on it would not budge. I ended up cracking the iron plate it was attached to!! In the end I ended up drilling into the abs sensor and scraping all the bits out. Nightmare it was rant.gif

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 17th April 2019 20:21

QUOTE(Ganz @ 14th April 2019 22:59) *
With great difficulty laugh.gif My Allen bolt snapped off. I drilled through the remaining bit and then proceeded to lever the abs sensor off with a hefty screwdriver. It was seized solid! Even with no Allen bolt holding it on it would not budge. I ended up cracking the iron plate it was attached to!! In the end I ended up drilling into the abs sensor and scraping all the bits out. Nightmare it was rant.gif


I will try my induction heater on it!!


QUOTE(JeremyG @ 13th April 2019 12:02) *
Sure - I have a few days off before Easter so I'm around most of the coming week & weekend...



Hiya Jeremy, I'm thinking a courier , let me know your post code and I will be able to get a quote, if that's ok with you?

Then I will get some money over to you on PayPal or by bank tfr whatever you prefer.

Posted by: JeremyG 18th April 2019 07:32

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 17th April 2019 21:21) *
Hiya Jeremy, I'm thinking a courier , let me know your post code and I will be able to get a quote, if that's ok with you?

Then I will get some money over to you on PayPal or by bank tfr whatever you prefer.


Hi Stevie - just sent you a PM...

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 19th April 2019 23:48

I thought belt and braces, I.e. brace the struts after I've welded them.

 

Posted by: JeremyG 20th April 2019 09:23

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 20th April 2019 00:48) *
I thought belt and braces, I.e. brace the struts after I've welded them.


Fair enough! And the Eibach lowering springs are on their way to you...

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 20th April 2019 10:34

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 20th April 2019 10:23) *
Fair enough! And the Eibach lowering springs are on their way to you...



Thanks Jeremy!

So I've had bumper off, ready to get better access, replace rad and cure any rust.

Seems sound enough in most places except offside in front of arch, seems just to be a securing point for bumper, plastic inner arch, and horn, so I'm not too fussed about its dire condition, just rescue what's left and weld a plate to get the horn mount back where it should be.

Does anyone know what that plate with three wires on dangling down was for? Whatever it was attached too was rusted to nothing.




 

Posted by: JeremyG 20th April 2019 12:23

Wow, youíre getting through that fast!

Are you doing your own welding, btw?

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 20th April 2019 21:36

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 20th April 2019 13:23) *
Wow, youíre getting through that fast!

Are you doing your own welding, btw?



Probably not on the struts, my nephew is an industrial welder, or I will ask Nino.

I might give it a go on the small stuff like the fitting for the horn. I bought a cheap new mig welder, gasless, been watching a few videos, so complete amateur. I think the sils/floor will need some attention , get a garage to do that.

Do you know what this wire panel is?

 

Posted by: JeremyG 20th April 2019 22:06

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 20th April 2019 22:36) *
Probably not on the struts, my nephew is an industrial welder, or I will ask Nino.

I might give it a go on the small stuff like the fitting for the horn. I bought a cheap new mig welder, gasless, been watching a few videos, so complete amateur. I think the sils/floor will need some attention , get a garage to do that.

Do you know what this wire panel is?


Iím interested in learning to weld, too... Iíve also beentempted to buy a welder and give it a go.

No idea what that electrical connection is. What colour are the three wires? And are all three interconnected on that little panel?

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 22nd April 2019 12:46

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 20th April 2019 23:06) *
Iím interested in learning to weld, too... Iíve also beentempted to buy a welder and give it a go.

No idea what that electrical connection is. What colour are the three wires? And are all three interconnected on that little panel?



One is red and black, with a red connector, one is a pale green , one is pale green and black. Pale green is the best description I could give it!!

 

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 22nd April 2019 21:36

So much more room!



 

Posted by: Ganz 26th April 2019 11:30

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 22nd April 2019 13:46) *
One is red and black, with a red connector, one is a pale green , one is pale green and black. Pale green is the best description I could give it!!


I wouldn't worry about these. I had the same on mine and left them disconnected. I cannot remember what they were for but I know a few years ago that GialloEvo94 found out. I've tried looking for the post but like looking for a needle in a haystack job.

Posted by: VROOM 26th April 2019 13:10

QUOTE(Ganz @ 26th April 2019 12:30) *
I wouldn't worry about these. I had the same on mine and left them disconnected. I cannot remember what they were for but I know a few years ago that GialloEvo94 found out. I've tried looking for the post but like looking for a needle in a haystack job.

I've got my bumper off and can't see those anywhere, but mine's a ph2.

Posted by: JeremyG 26th April 2019 13:17

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 22nd April 2019 22:36) *
So much more room!


Looks like you could practically stand inside the car to work on the engine...

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 26th April 2019 17:41

QUOTE(Ganz @ 26th April 2019 12:30) *
I wouldn't worry about these. I had the same on mine and left them disconnected. I cannot remember what they were for but I know a few years ago that GialloEvo94 found out. I've tried looking for the post but like looking for a needle in a haystack job.



Ok cheers, will just tape up and leave!!

Posted by: SteveG 27th April 2019 09:48

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 20th April 2019 23:06) *
Iím interested in learning to weld, too... Iíve also beentempted to buy a welder and give it a go.

With an X1/9 in the garage, I decided a few years back I really needed to learn to weld. Watched a few videos, went over to a mate place, who was also restoring an X1/9 at the time and is a really good welder, to see how it's done in the real world (i.e. not welding shiny new metal on the bench, but chopping out rust, making repair sections etc.), then bought the kit!
I've probably done more welding on the 145 than the X1/9! As long as it's not visible, I can now do a reasonable, MOT passable job (floorpans, chassis legs). The difficult bit is shaping curves etc. Underneath, it doesn't matter if it's not perfect, few people will see it.
I looked back at some early work I did on the X1/9 and decided to cut it out and re-do it! Did some repairs to a mates lawnmower over Easter and I was really pleased with how it went - looked pretty good when ground back and painted.
You're clearly competent with spanners from reading your other thread, so I'm sure you'll pick up the welding skills pretty quickly.

Posted by: JeremyG 27th April 2019 09:52

QUOTE(SteveG @ 27th April 2019 10:48) *
With an X1/9 in the garage, I decided a few years back I really needed to learn to weld. Watched a few videos, went over to a mate place, who was also restoring an X1/9 at the time and is a really good welder, to see how it's done in the real world (i.e. not welding shiny new metal on the bench, but chopping out rust, making repair sections etc.), then bought the kit!
I've probably done more welding on the 145 than the X1/9! As long as it's not visible, I can now do a reasonable, MOT passable job (floorpans, chassis legs). The difficult bit is shaping curves etc. Underneath, it doesn't matter if it's not perfect, few people will see it.
I looked back at some early work I did on the X1/9 and decided to cut it out and re-do it! Did some repairs to a mates lawnmower over Easter and I was really pleased with how it went - looked pretty good when ground back and painted.
You're clearly competent with spanners from reading your other thread, so I'm sure you'll pick up the welding skills pretty quickly.


Great - that sounds encouraging! Can I ask what welding gear you purchased?

(Sorry Stevie - hijacking your thread somewhat...)

Posted by: SteveG 27th April 2019 10:05

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 27th April 2019 10:52) *
Great - that sounds encouraging! Can I ask what welding gear you purchased?

(Sorry Stevie - hijacking your thread somewhat...)

Clarke 135 turbo MIG - anything bigger needed 16amp supply, and I needing to work on the drive with an extension lead. It's plenty powerful for anything on the car. Don't think I've ever used power level 3 max. Get an auto switching mask - so much easier.

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 27th April 2019 10:24

QUOTE(SteveG @ 27th April 2019 11:05) *
Clarke 135 turbo MIG - anything bigger needed 16amp supply, and I needing to work on the drive with an extension lead. It's plenty powerful for anything on the car. Don't think I've ever used power level 3 max. Get an auto switching mask - so much easier.



Dont mind.me, I'm into welding talk!

Posted by: JeremyG 27th April 2019 10:39

QUOTE(SteveG @ 27th April 2019 11:05) *
Clarke 135 turbo MIG - anything bigger needed 16amp supply, and I needing to work on the drive with an extension lead. It's plenty powerful for anything on the car. Don't think I've ever used power level 3 max. Get an auto switching mask - so much easier.


Thanks - I've read about gas-less MIG welders at the cheaper end of the market but I see yours can run with or without gas. Have you tried it both ways - and if so, what difference does it make?

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 27th April 2019 11:24) *
Dont mind.me, I'm into welding talk!


laugh.gif

Posted by: SteveG 27th April 2019 22:46

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 27th April 2019 11:39) *
Thanks - I've read about gas-less MIG welders at the cheaper end of the market but I see yours can run with or without gas. Have you tried it both ways - and if so, what difference does it make?
laugh.gif

Only tried without gas when it runs out (or I forget to turn it on!). I get crap welds without....

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 28th April 2019 08:33

QUOTE(SteveG @ 27th April 2019 23:46) *
Only tried without gas when it runs out (or I forget to turn it on!). I get crap welds without....


Is that crap weld even with the special wire you need for gas less ?

I know it is crapper with the right wire, but supposed to be usable.


Posted by: VROOM 28th April 2019 16:37

I'd never welded before until I got the 145. Luckily for me all of the structural welding had been professionally done by the previous owner so I only had a few easy patches to do. I bought myself a wire welder from Lidl. It's very difficult to get the speed of the wire and power level exact to get a good weld without creating ball bearing splatter everywhere. After trial and error I managed to get the bits done well enough and ground back the messy welds. All my welds are in areas covered by plastic so not a problem. An auto dimming mask is a must - I didn't get one so trying to line up the nozzle and then holding the mask without moving is a complete pain.

Posted by: SteveG 28th April 2019 20:05

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 28th April 2019 09:33) *
Is that crap weld even with the special wire you need for gas less ?

I know it is crapper with the right wire, but supposed to be usable.

I didn't know there was a different wire for use without gas, so can't really comment

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 12th May 2019 15:58

Progress.... been doing some rust treating , going to replace clutch slave and thermostat next, before putting new radiator on.

There is a weird bit of plastic hanging off a cable going under the engine cover, see 3 pics, anyone know what that is/was?



 

Posted by: Ganz 13th May 2019 23:26

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 12th May 2019 16:58) *
Progress.... been doing some rust treating , going to replace clutch slave and thermostat next, before putting new radiator on.

There is a weird bit of plastic hanging off a cable going under the engine cover, see 3 pics, anyone know what that is/was?


This tucks in under the cam cover. Its one of those plastic parts that never quite fit back to their original location after they get to a certain age. Again, I wouldn't worry about it and take it off. I had one on mine and ditched it in the end. Save weight biggrin.gif


Posted by: STEVIE BOY 18th May 2019 08:46

Taken the offside off now, ready for my mate the bolsover godfather who's visiting us today/tomorrow , see what he recommends.

 

Posted by: SteveG 18th May 2019 11:24

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 18th May 2019 09:46) *
Taken the offside off now, ready for my mate the bolsover godfather who's visiting us today/tomorrow , see what he recommends.

I'd take arch liner and splash guard off too - quite likely more tin worm hiding there (speaking from experience!)

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 18th May 2019 12:29

QUOTE(SteveG @ 18th May 2019 12:24) *
I'd take arch liner and splash guard off too - quite likely more tin worm hiding there (speaking from experience!)



Yes I think you're probably right , I'm thinking I'm just catching this car in time , rust wise ......

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 19th May 2019 07:24

Liner and air box out, ready to weld.

 

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 19th May 2019 18:45

One down...

 

Posted by: SteveG 19th May 2019 18:52

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 19th May 2019 19:45) *
One down...

Nice job!

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 19th May 2019 22:25

QUOTE(SteveG @ 19th May 2019 19:52) *
Nice job!




Here is how it was done, I'm the cameraman, Nino is the star.


https://youtu.be/sjsNxdo2ZZk

Posted by: JeremyG 21st May 2019 14:44

Excellent - great to see the repairs coming on.

Also interesting to see how the welder plays havoc with your phone camera... and was your mate welding away without using any form of eye protection???

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 21st May 2019 17:42

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 21st May 2019 15:44) *
Excellent - great to see the repairs coming on.

Also interesting to see how the welder plays havoc with your phone camera... and was your mate welding away without using any form of eye protection???



Yes, it was my crappy 130 amp gas less welder , but Nino said it was quite good. I tried to persuade him to wear my welding helmet but he said hes been welding for 40 years with no trouble, he closes his eyes and opens them in time with the weld. Dont try this at home!!

Posted by: SteveG 21st May 2019 19:30

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 19th May 2019 23:25) *
Here is how it was done, I'm the cameraman, Nino is the star.
https://youtu.be/sjsNxdo2ZZk

Even more impressive give he's got his eyes closed!! worshippy.gif

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 25th May 2019 11:51

Replacing wishbone... and touching up the surrounding frame for surface rust whilst I'm there

 

Posted by: VROOM 25th May 2019 18:09

Unfortunately that inner arch is looking a bit flaky. The driver's side on mine has a thick plate welded right across there joining onto the chassis leg. Nearside however needed just small weld and plenty of wire brushing of surface rust. I found later the reason why the other side was so rotten. The factory seam sealer was missing from where the strut mount joins the inner wing (maybe the robot or person on the factory line ran out of it!)! Result would allow water to collect in between the two. Worth checking this area whilst you're there.

Posted by: donutty 26th May 2019 13:22

How the hell are you able to jack that up on a stone driveway ?? laughbounce2.gif laugh.gif

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 26th May 2019 14:35

QUOTE(donutty @ 26th May 2019 14:22) *
How the hell are you able to jack that up on a stone driveway ?? laughbounce2.gif laugh.gif



Must be some physics behind it......!

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 1st June 2019 15:11

Took half an hour or so but got the abs sensor out.

 

Posted by: Ganz 4th June 2019 21:21

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 1st June 2019 16:11) *
Took half an hour or so but got the abs sensor out.


Looks familiar..Next challenge is getting a replacement rear abs sensor. There are loads of front ones but rear ones rare as rocking horse doobies. They are different in resistance. Have a look at my posts. I took a guesstimated gamble on a Fiat one that looked identical and after carrying out the abs ignition steps the abs light went out.

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 5th June 2019 19:42

Cheers ganz.

I've made my first ever brake pipe repair....



 

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 17th June 2019 20:59

Ive put the top mount on, still to put the bottom bolts into strut, and bolts into wishbone.

 

Posted by: dante giacosa 18th June 2019 08:22

again-

a jaw dropping level of prep; great stuff

total respect for attempting the brake line fabrication 'in house'- are you going to paint them?

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 18th June 2019 13:11

QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 18th June 2019 09:22) *
again-

a jaw dropping level of prep; great stuff

total respect for attempting the brake line fabrication 'in house'- are you going to paint them?



Cheers, Nah, I'm not thinking there will be much to see once the wheels are on....what do you think?

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 19th June 2019 21:02

I need new bolts for suspension strut to wheel upright.

Is 10.9 tensile strength adequate?

Posted by: JeremyG 20th June 2019 06:31

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 19th June 2019 22:02) *
I need new bolts for suspension strut to wheel upright.

Is 10.9 tensile strength adequate?


These are the genuine items:

https://www.partsworld-uk.com/collections/alfa-romeo-gtv-spider-spare-parts/products/front-shocker-nut-bolt

Posted by: lancer778544 20th June 2019 11:05

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 19th June 2019 22:02) *
I need new bolts for suspension strut to wheel upright.

Is 10.9 tensile strength adequate?



QUOTE(JeremyG @ 20th June 2019 07:31) *
These are the genuine items:

https://www.partsworld-uk.com/collections/alfa-romeo-gtv-spider-spare-parts/products/front-shocker-nut-bolt


Bought these slightly cheaper on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Fiat-500-Punto-Panda-Front-Suspension-Shock-Absorber-Nut-Bolt-7676615/264343200462?hash=item3d8c1522ce:g:GnIAAOSwFDxc7~-r&frcectupt=true

Same P/N as the bottom ball joint pinch bolt which is why I ordered them.

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 21st June 2019 03:42

QUOTE(lancer778544 @ 20th June 2019 12:05) *
Bought these slightly cheaper on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Fiat-500-Punto-Panda-Front-Suspension-Shock-Absorber-Nut-Bolt-7676615/264343200462?hash=item3d8c1522ce:g:GnIAAOSwFDxc7~-r&frcectupt=true

Same P/N as the bottom ball joint pinch bolt which is why I ordered them.



Thanks guys, I've ordered some of the real McCoy's, I wonder if you could just use an appropriate sized bolt and some thread lock? I supposed you wouldnt find out until on your way into the ditch.

Posted by: dante giacosa 21st June 2019 08:51

yeah-

it's one of those classic worries isn't it?

'Is this enough??'

I work with nuts & bolts all day long and I can't see a difference; but I suspect the finite materials technology involved is a bit more subtle than just 'appearance'.

It's not bank-breaking though is it; for the genuine item...


Have you got a tightening-torque for these, Stevie..?

Posted by: lancer778544 21st June 2019 10:37

QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 21st June 2019 09:51) *
Have you got a tightening-torque for these, Stevie..?


It's 67-74nm if you haven't got it Stevie smile.gif

Posted by: JeremyG 21st June 2019 10:47

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 21st June 2019 04:42) *
Thanks guys, I've ordered some of the real McCoy's, I wonder if you could just use an appropriate sized bolt and some thread lock? I supposed you wouldnt find out until on your way into the ditch.


Apparently they shouldn't even be re-used... the loads on those bolts are massive, I expect... they carry the weight of the car on that corner, plus the cornering loads...

Good to see your project moving on, Stevie - and btw what dampers did you buy - are they stock?

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 21st June 2019 13:31

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 21st June 2019 11:47) *
Apparently they shouldn't even be re-used... the loads on those bolts are massive, I expect... they carry the weight of the car on that corner, plus the cornering loads...

Good to see your project moving on, Stevie - and btw what dampers did you buy - are they stock?



Hi Jeremy ,
They are monroe g16598, aftermarket, that are supposed to fit the 145.....

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 23rd June 2019 22:26

Starting on the offside, the wishbones are really bad!! Otherwise, nothing too serious though.

 

Posted by: lancer778544 24th June 2019 08:02

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 23rd June 2019 23:26) *
Starting on the offside, the wishbones are really bad!! Otherwise, nothing too serious though.


If the wishbones are the same as the boxers Stevie, I picked up a pair of wishbones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Qh-Suspension-Arm-Alfa-Romeo-Lancia-Fiat-155-Dedra-Delta-Coupe-Qsa998S/362375828088?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Qh-Suspension-Arm-Alfa-Romeo-Lancia-Fiat-155-Dedra-Delta-Coupe-Qsa999S/401562682481?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 for £24 each delivered. I also picked up a new pair of ARB droplinks for around £6.60 each https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-OE-FEBI-Bilstein-STABILISER-LINK-Rod-Strut-36829-Single/322945732508?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and that was definitely worth it since one of the droplinks was practically welded into the wishbone.

Replaced all those and dropped the rear subframe on the weekend, much fun...

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 25th June 2019 13:35

QUOTE(lancer778544 @ 24th June 2019 09:02) *
If the wishbones are the same as the boxers Stevie, I picked up a pair of wishbones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Qh-Suspension-Arm-Alfa-Romeo-Lancia-Fiat-155-Dedra-Delta-Coupe-Qsa998S/362375828088?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Qh-Suspension-Arm-Alfa-Romeo-Lancia-Fiat-155-Dedra-Delta-Coupe-Qsa999S/401562682481?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 for £24 each delivered. I also picked up a new pair of ARB droplinks for around £6.60 each https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-OE-FEBI-Bilstein-STABILISER-LINK-Rod-Strut-36829-Single/322945732508?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and that was definitely worth it since one of the droplinks was practically welded into the wishbone.

Replaced all those and dropped the rear subframe on the weekend, much fun...



Now you tell me !! smile.gif

That is a bit cheaper all in than I managed....

Posted by: lancer778544 25th June 2019 14:38

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 25th June 2019 14:35) *
Now you tell me !! smile.gif

That is a bit cheaper all in than I managed....


Oh sorry! I didn't realise you'd already bought all the bits sad.gif

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 25th June 2019 21:09

That's no worries,

Cuz of the weather I've switched to refurbishing my calipers


 

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 28th June 2019 16:27

Got me new bolts and pinch nuts so I can finish off that side of the car bar waiting on a refurb kit for caliper.

Defo a 10.9 tensile bolt, but cant find out what S B E means.

Anyone know?

 

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 28th June 2019 16:33

QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 21st June 2019 09:51) *
yeah-

it's one of those classic worries isn't it?

'Is this enough??'

I work with nuts & bolts all day long and I can't see a difference; but I suspect the finite materials technology involved is a bit more subtle than just 'appearance'.

It's not bank-breaking though is it; for the genuine item...
Have you got a tightening-torque for these, Stevie..?



Sorry Dante, I hadn't noticed you had posted until just now.

Yes I have torque settings, see pic

 

Posted by: Ganz 6th July 2019 21:25

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 21st June 2019 04:42) *
Thanks guys, I've ordered some of the real McCoy's, I wonder if you could just use an appropriate sized bolt and some thread lock? I supposed you wouldnt find out until on your way into the ditch.


When I rebuilt the 145 there was one thing I decided early on. That I was going to to use the original bolts on the following
Subframes, suspension, engine, mount bolts. I would not trust a standard bolt on these parts. A regular stainless steel bolt is threaded all the way the bolts that you mention are not. I did replace a seat belt bolt on the drivers side but I replaced it with a titanium one with a titanium nut.

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 11th July 2019 20:17

Having a mare.

Trying to fit my nearside lower arm , what should be simple , following ganz's how to guide, is about the most frustrating thing I've ever done.

1st arm, manufactured by vaico , 1st two outer shortest captive bolts, I get them in. Then the middle sized inner bolt closest the front of the car, with great difficulty i got it in (I had to apply a lot of pressure with a large cold chisel to get it to seat enough to take the bolt). Nightmare though was the last and longest bolt. Just half the hole in the nut lines up with the subframe hole. All sorts of adjustments , pulling, pushing, leveling, loosening , to no avail. In the end I decided it must be a dodgy arm I.e. holes not the correct distance. Whilst taking it off I split the gaitor on universal joint.

2nd arm , luckily I had a 2nd arm 'in stock' as I had a pair for my 146 I had yet to replace. This time a Mapco.

Same story ish, this time all went smoothly including the middle bolt, not the same problem with that as before, my spirits rose. Then exact same issue with the longest bolt, no where near lined up, whatever I do. All the various attempts I end up threading one of the nuts.

So two arms down, not sure what to do sad.gif do u think its possible both were cheap s**te , or am I doing something wrong?

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 18th July 2019 17:24

My 3rd nearside wishbone has arrived.

I bought a febi blistein which I think is a decent brand.

I'm gonna wait for my mate the godfather of bolsover to arrive in a few weeks time, before I try again.

In the mean time i want/need to buy two sets of the bolts required for the wishbones, does anyone know where they are available?

Cheers



 

Posted by: lancer778544 18th July 2019 18:29

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 18th July 2019 18:24) *
In the mean time i want/need to buy two sets of the bolts required for the wishbones, does anyone know where they are available?


ePER lists 3 different length bolts for the bottom arms:

M10x30 - P/N: 60689020

M10x59 - P/N: 46760598

M10x81 - P/N: 60655492

All are available from alfaworkshop.co.uk or maybe from Alfa themselves if you have a local dealer. I picked up a brake compensator spring from Alpha & Yapps down here in Cardiff for less than a tenner vs £20+ from ebay for a Fiat Coupe one.

Posted by: JeremyG 18th July 2019 19:17

Yeah, it is a bit of a faff to get everything lined up. A few thoughts:

1) Have you got both front wheels off the ground? You donít want to be fighting the ARB as well as everything else...

2) Last time I replaced a lower arm, I used a tapered rod to line up the holes in the subframe with the captive nuts in the arm, then used a clamp to hold the arm in position... as I recall, you are fighting against the torque in the rubber bushes whose natural resting position is with the arms pointing slightly upwards.

3) Do you still have the strut attached to the hub? Given you have replaced the struts, Iíd remove them, then fit the arm to the subframe, then fit the hub and ARB droplink to the arm, then re-fit the strut.

Apologies if youíve already tried that...

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 19th July 2019 17:33

Thanks both!! Mich appreciated.

Yes both wheels are off. The strut out is my nuclear option I suppose. I know the Italian bolsover godfather will be able to do it as he can literally do anything, just frustrated that something so seemingly easy (ganz how to, and videos of other cars) is causing me so much hassle. He will laugh at me when I tell him I cant do it.

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 23rd July 2019 17:39

Progress photos....

Put a new thermostat , new radiator, the oil was flushed, and has been sitting empty for weeks, so just about to turn her over again with fresh oil/filter and flush out the cooling system. New battery as well.

Waiting on new bolts before I crack on again with wishbone, this time I'm go bolt it in first, then try to lever down enough to get the joint into the hub.

 

Posted by: JeremyG 23rd July 2019 21:51

Brilliant - love the Moretti beer!

And you managed to work out the 10,000 separate connections to the thermostat housing, too?

Posted by: JeremyG 24th July 2019 07:02

Looking at that middle picture - how are your headlight adjusters?

If theyíre broken thatís a guaranteed MoT fail so definitely worth fixing now while you have the front off the car...

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 4th August 2019 17:25

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 24th July 2019 08:02) *
Looking at that middle picture - how are your headlight adjusters?

If theyíre broken thatís a guaranteed MoT fail so definitely worth fixing now while you have the front off the car...



I will take a look!!

Just changing the spark plugs, usual swimming in olive oil

 

Posted by: JeremyG 17th October 2019 22:25

Hey Stevie - any updates on your project???

Posted by: STEVIE BOY 27th October 2019 14:30

QUOTE(JeremyG @ 17th October 2019 22:25) *
Hey Stevie - any updates on your project???


Hey up.

Not progressed on 145 as Ive had a nightmare at work, last 3 or 4 months, i started a new job with new employer, then the lackey who really did most of the work disappeared pretending to be ill and never came back(perhaps she thought she should have got the job) So ive been doing 60/70 hr weeks whilst trying to stop the boat sinking and restoring order with some recruitment etc. Now its getting back to normal but the sunlight has gone!

Anyway, latest issues are today as ive gone to start her up, the new battery is totally and utterly dead, and i mean dead, it doesn't register on the battery charger such that it wont attempt to charge it, my quick jump battery thing wont work with it, and my battery analyser wont analyse it, even the old battery that's been on the floor outside in the rain for 6 months registers on my battery analyser. So what could have drawn so much current to ruin the battery whilst the cars not been turned over for 3 months or so? It was a brand spanking new battery. Is the bat the right spec (see photo).

 

Posted by: lancer778544 27th October 2019 23:47

Have you got an old skool battery charger Stevie? Its usually the case that the newer smarter chargers wont detect/play nice with batteries that are too flat as they can't "see" them. An old skool charger usually doesn't care. If you do have one, give it a try for a couple of hours (keep an eye on it though) and see if that brings it up enough for the newer charger or your analyser to see it.

Edit: Before doing the above, check to see the voltage its currently at with a multimeter if you can.

Posted by: dante giacosa 28th October 2019 09:37

I've got a car or two that live outside for extended periods under covers and in garages and don't get used-

here's my top tip;

bring the battery indoors.

On this era of stuff, unless you are using the car for a good-drive every ten days or so; you are going to get into trouble. Batteries never go dead whilst sitting in the warmth of a house disconnected.

What happens (which Ganz is referring to) is that 'intelligent' chargers identify through impedance that one of the cells in the battery has 'cracked' and then elect not to attempt charging. This happens on deep discharge trickle-drain right-to-zero scenarios; where a battery is left for an extended period in a vehicle without charge.
An older non-intelligent charger won't know anything about this and will just try and bulk-charge the battery despite the damaged cell.

If you are lucky; the damaged cell will allow continuity through-it to sustain charging the remaining 7 (?) cells, and the residual charging process may be enough to turn the car over. However, it is unlikely to continue in service as a usable battery.


Posted by: JeremyG 28th October 2019 16:13

QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 28th October 2019 09:37) *
here's my top tip;
bring the battery indoors.
On this era of stuff, unless you are using the car for a good-drive every ten days or so; you are going to get into trouble. Batteries never go dead whilst sitting in the warmth of a house disconnected.


I'd agree on that although obviously you could always just disconnect the battery and leave it in situ; or invest on one of those solar-powered trickle chargers to keep the battery topped up.

(This was a regular topic of conversation on the AO Spider/GTV forum, what with Spiders in particular rarely being daily drivers.)

You can also purchase isolator switches that sit between battery and positive lead so you can disconnect the power without getting your hands dirty... this type of thing:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Battery-Isolator-Switch-Power-Leakage/dp/B075S9GZTQ/ref=pd_cp_263_3/260-4296634-0488753?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075S9GZTQ&pd_rd_r=6d660321-0347-415b-bbcb-5b9d086e3733&pd_rd_w=56TB2&pd_rd_wg=xDAsr&pf_rd_p=1ed602c2-81bc-4963-a32e-87d65a0bdbac&pf_rd_r=RRR1B6QEVC6AGC776R7V&psc=1&refRID=RRR1B6QEVC6AGC776R7V

Posted by: Ganz 28th October 2019 23:23

QUOTE(STEVIE BOY @ 23rd June 2019 22:26) *
Starting on the offside, the wishbones are really bad!! Otherwise, nothing too serious though.


Bloody hell. I thought mine were bad but these are no3.gif

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