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> Black Ph1 145 QV resuscitation
JeremyG
post 14th October 2018 08:30
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QUOTE(VROOM @ 11th October 2018 20:16) *
If the drain holes aren't rusty, why not just fill with some seam sealer and then underseal over it? I had some good results with the stuff in areas where the factory seam sealer was patchy to say the least.


Yes - I ended up with a combination of both approaches, after all. Those drain holes that could be welded were welded shut; where not possible (eg near the fuel lines) they've been plugged with sealant. Then undersealed from below, and painted with Hammerite from above.
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JeremyG
post 14th October 2018 08:38
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 11th October 2018 20:26) *
That's a good point, Vroom.
Jeremy- can I ask you about using the ball-joint splitter on the lower arm swivel?

Did you 'hammer' (mallet) that; or did you try to lever it, to separate the hub carrier from the wishbone..?

And is it classically recommended to replace the pinch bolt, after such a separation..?


On the steering swivel - I needed to hammer the the splitter in towards the joint to split it; then use the splitter to lever the lower arm away from the hub.

I don't believe the bolt needs to be replaced - I replaced mine simply because they were in poor condition once I'd got them off.


QUOTE(SteveG @ 10th October 2018 21:52) *
Well done mate - all that hard work payed off!

BTW I'm pretty sure I've got spare headlight motors if required


Thanks Steve!

I'll give you a shout once I've tested the adjuster motors...
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JeremyG
post 14th October 2018 08:47
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 9th October 2018 04:56) *
Any chance of an image of your work on the headlights..?


Dante - I didn't take any pics of the headlight work as there are plenty in the other threads on here relating to repairing the adjusters.

The only things I can add are:

1) Converting a LHD headlamp to RHD seems only to require swapping out the projector unit for the low beam. This is simple once you have the glass off the headlamp - it's held in place by four nuts. The rest of the unit seems to be the same.

2) There is a difference between Phase 1 and Phase 2 headlamps - I discovered this when I received the (damaged) NOS Alfa Phase 2 unit from AROC. The Phase 1 units have two metal pegs at the bottom which are used to locate the outer edges of the grille trim. These pegs were not present on the Phase 2 official Alfa unit - which possibly explains why they are a different part number to the Phase 1 units. The replacement TYC units I purchased had the pegs.
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JeremyG
post 15th October 2018 22:53
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Got almost all of the interior refitted today.

I've replaced the bitumen layer over the welding repairs with "Stinger Roadkill" sound deadening from Halfords (they sell a kit that was just the size I needed for just 20). Then added a layer of felt soundproofing from Woolies, before refitting the carpet.

It's the quietest the car has been since I've owned it (remember, there was a big hole in the floor) - and it sounds great.

Given it needs a cambelt and a water pump, I'm trying not to drive it - but a couple of enforced trips across town and back have shown what a great car the 145 is...

It pulls amazingly well from low revs, it rides really well and it reminds me of the puppy-like enthusiasm that my 155 had (before I rolled it... but that's another story). Same engine and platform, I guess, but a very different driving experience to my Spider which also has the same engine and front end.

Anyhow, I can see this is going to be an easy car to fall in love with. Can't wait to get it out on the open road and really stretch its legs...
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dante giacosa
post 16th October 2018 08:48
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SORRY-

say that again??!!

You ROLLED a 155????!

respect!!
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JeremyG
post 16th October 2018 21:52
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 16th October 2018 09:48) *
SORRY-

say that again??!!

You ROLLED a 155????!

respect!!

Well, it's not something I'm particularly proud of, to be fair!

Ironically, I was on my way to get the 155 fixed as the clutch slave cylinder had started to leak. It was October 2002. I was taking a route I'd driven hundreds of times and got to a section with a left then right sweeping corner. The left sweep went fine, but in the right turn the front of the car started to run wide. Naturally, I got off the power to bring the nose back into line - but as I did so the understeer turned rapidly (and unexpectedly) into oversteer as the rears then lost grip. The road was narrow so before I knew it I'd crossed to the right side of the road and onto an upwards-sloping grassy verge - and I guess the angle was just enough to flip the car onto its roof.

(Later, when I was explaining this to my wife, she looked at me and said, "Why didn't you just brake?"...)

So I found myself upside down suspended by my seat belts in the middle of the road - which thankfully was quiet; because if a car had been coming the other way it would have been a very nasty accident.

Anyway, I popped the seat belt, crawled out of a broken rear window, and knocked on the door of the nearest house. The police came, an ambulance came - but given I hadn't damaged anything else apart from the car and my pride, no further action was taken. Although my doctor did shout at me quite a lot when I attended for the recommended checkup a few days later...

As far the car - well, it was an absolutely beautiful 155 2.0 in rosso with the sport pack, giving it the little boot spoiler and the charcoal Speedline wheels. It was one of the last, on an R plate, and was generally mint until I foolishly trashed it.

Although - looking at the picture below, at least 50% of the damage you can see was caused by the recovery truck righting the car - basically, they attached a couple of chains to the underside of the car and dragged it behind their truck until it caught in the tarmac and rolled back onto its wheels. That was a truly horrible sight to see.

Attached Image
Attached Image


I can't be sure but I think there was diesel on the road. I say this because the behaviour of the car was so unexpected. Plus, as I was waiting with the police for the recovery truck, another car travelling in the same direction as I had braked as it came round the corner to find my 155 upside down in the middle of the road. And guess what - as it got the point where I'd lost it, it locked up its front left wheel and slithered to a halt...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 16th October 2018 22:07
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dante giacosa
post 17th October 2018 07:34
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good heaven's Jeremy-

what a story- you were lucky to walk out of that; fascinating and reassuring to know that a 155 could hold it's own weight on the roof and look after you

(I know you'd 'like to think' that was part of the safety spec)

such a shame about the car; but it sounds like the best of a bad situation; no-one was hurt and nobody else was involved


"why didn't you just brake?" priceless...



(at a point in the future; I must recount the time I left the road, jumped a ditch, and 'drove' (/skidded) 100ft into a field in my FIAT Coupe turbo...)
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dante giacosa
post 28th October 2018 09:19
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Jeremy-

Where did you source the dust cover / boot on the wishbone lower-ball joint steering swivel pin??
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JeremyG
post 28th October 2018 15:07
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 28th October 2018 09:19) *
Jeremy-

Where did you source the dust cover / boot on the wishbone lower-ball joint steering swivel pin??


As per post 133 above...

http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtop...895&st=120# and scroll down a bit...

Also - fitted new (single DIN) head unit today. Discovered why the speaker in the passenger's door isn't working: there isn't one!

Has anyone got a recommendation for replacement units that have fitted under the existing speaker covers?

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 28th October 2018 15:21
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dante giacosa
post 28th October 2018 21:23
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Thankyou-

Sorry; I reread all of what 'I thought' was relevant to that, this morning; and completely missed that

(I've never even noticed the #(post No. before!)


On the speaker front- I put a bit of research into what I reckoned 'technically' (as in; on specifications alone) were the best drivers for the speaker positions: and then discovered they didn't have a large enough aperture behind the front grille diameter to accomodate them-

As you know- and was widely documented at the time

So; I'm personally not best placed to describe a good OE replacement
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JeremyG
post 6th November 2018 10:01
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Getting autumnal, isn't it?

Got the side skirts back on now, and all of the interior...

Attached Image


Made a start on respraying the rear bumper towing eye cover from Cloverleaf1996:

Attached Image
Attached Image


And I've now been actually driving the car around town... it's great!

Going on my first long-ish trip later today to deliver some un-needed parts left over from my Spider - which I sold last weekend.

Now down to just 2 Alfas...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 6th November 2018 10:43
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dante giacosa
post 6th November 2018 12:37
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its all looking pretty functional!

2-car choice; 166 or 145!

not a bad lineup...

good work on the painting
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JeremyG
post 6th November 2018 23:33
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 6th November 2018 12:37) *
its all looking pretty functional!


Yep - the car happily took me 20 miles and back today to deliver my leftover Spider parts to a gentleman in Brize Norton - who turned out to be a bigwig in the Cotswolds section of AROC. It's a bit like being in the Mafia. Or the Rotary Club.

So, have just ordered parts for a full service: plugs, variator, cambelt kit, balance belt kit, water pump, thermostat, coolant, oil, and filters (oil and air).

Current/final snagging list includes:

1) Full service (using the above)
2) Re-set rear bumper lower mounting to correct position - and fit newly-acquired towing eye cover
3) Get a replacement for the missing door speaker
4) Test wiring for alarm system - it is currently self-arming, and the voltage at the bonnet switch is incorrect... so I can't set it to not self-arm.
5) Clean the interior - I'll be hiring a carpet/upholstery cleaning machine this weekend
6) Fit the new bonnet grille and badge I bought ages ago - and maybe the wind deflectors for the front windows... (not 100% sure about those, mind)

Then - I'll just be out enjoying it!

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 6th November 2018 23:44
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dante giacosa
post 7th November 2018 09:18
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well,

that seems like a very pleasant list to work through; with the most hassle being the belt change & variation swap out, I imagine.

I think I'd start with that stuff...

How do you mean the voltage at the bonnet switch is incorrect? I thought it was just a contact closure pair?

(incidentally; can I swap the battery in my keyfob by just, er, swapping it? Or does the system need recoded or anything..?)

In addition to your list; is it worth topping up the gearbox after your NS half-shaft adventure? Or did you do that already; and I missed it on the thread (probably, eh?)


I shall defer to your experience of the mafia & rotary club..!

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JeremyG
post 8th November 2018 15:33
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 7th November 2018 09:18) *
How do you mean the voltage at the bonnet switch is incorrect? I thought it was just a contact closure pair?

(incidentally; can I swap the battery in my keyfob by just, er, swapping it? Or does the system need recoded or anything..?)


Battery swap: yes, you can just put a new battery in - no recoding required.

Voltage at the bonnet switch: the switch is provided with 12V from the alarm unit in the boot. When operating the switch, the 12V is earthed.

I discovered this when troubleshooting the alarm system - which is set to self arm; and I can't change the country code to stop it from doing this (which requires the use of the bonnet switch to punch in the correct sequence of pushes). The voltage at the switch is only a couple of volts instead of 12V - and the bonnet warning light never comes on, even if the bonnet is open.

It's been a while since I first looked at this - but I'm pretty sure I tested the switch itself and it was fine.

I need to pick this one up again. The temporary fix was to disconnect the alarm unit - the remote still works fine to lock/unlock the doors, but the indicators don't flash and, of course, the alarm doesn't work.

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josephchacko
post 9th November 2018 07:29
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#awesome Phentermine 37.5



This post has been edited by josephchacko: 9th November 2018 07:30
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dante giacosa
post 9th November 2018 10:37
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(oh murdering death- it had to happen didn't it...)


Oh- I didn't realise there EVEN was a bonnet-open indicator! I've never seen it anyway...

Its funny how many people comment of the car-doors ideogram actually. People ask if I added it in! Not sure if thats a complement ...


If you have core-exclusivity to the alarm unit from the bonnet switch; it would suggest a duff alarm unit. UNLESS the car-doors ideogram system has an issue that is compromising the line? have to have a look at the schematics...
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JeremyG
post 9th November 2018 10:48
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 9th November 2018 10:37) *
(oh murdering death- it had to happen didn't it...)
Oh- I didn't realise there EVEN was a bonnet-open indicator! I've never seen it anyway...

Its funny how many people comment of the car-doors ideogram actually. People ask if I added it in! Not sure if thats a complement ...
If you have core-exclusivity to the alarm unit from the bonnet switch; it would suggest a duff alarm unit. UNLESS the car-doors ideogram system has an issue that is compromising the line? have to have a look at the schematics...


Ah... I'd assumed there was a bonnet indicator on that car door ideogram - but maybe not!

I'll check continuity of the the grey/red wire forward from the alarm unit to the bonnet switch as a first step; and re-check the switch is working OK. If those are both good, then I suspect you're right - and the alarm unit is kaput.

Luckily there is a brand new one for sale on eBay at the moment!

Then, I've got to work out what to do with all this stuff - received from Partsworld and Shop4Parts today:

Attached Image


This post has been edited by JeremyG: 9th November 2018 11:16
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dante giacosa
post 9th November 2018 13:59
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Ha!

the fun never ends in Oxford, eh??!
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JeremyG
post 10th November 2018 12:43
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Removed the rear bumper this morning to fix the bent lower mounting...

I've no idea what Alfa were thinking when they designed the rear bumper fixings for the 146 - but on the 145, there are just four bolts (one on each lower mounting, and two at the top of the bumper) and four screws (two each side attaching the bumper to the wheel arch liners) - and that's it.

Bumper off:

Attached Image


Bent the lower mounting straight, then test fitted to see if the towing eye cover now fits:

Attached Image


... job done!

Now I've just got to respray the rest of the car... rolleyes.gif

... and re-fit the bumper properly, having cleaned and rust-proofed as necessary on the panel behind...

Also looked at the alarm unit wiring and discovered a load of grease (Vaseline?) in the connectors... maybe a previous attempt at weather-proofing?

Attached Image
Attached Image


Anyhow, having cleaned the grease and re-connected the system, I found that the siren had stopped working (again) but that I could at least re-program the country code (by watching the indicators flash, instead of listening for the siren beeping). So now the system no longer self-arms - hurrah!

And even better, when I unlock the car, there are no errors shown on the alarm LED on the steering column. So siren aside, we're back in business with the alarm.

(I guess you could question the point of an alarm with a siren that doesn't work. However - at least I get a visual signal from the indicators when I'm locking and unlocking the car.)

So - good progress, and all finished just before the rain came...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 10th November 2018 12:54
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