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> 1.7 16v Engine Repair
niaugi
post 13th October 2013 04:30
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1.4 16v
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hi.

have some questions about engine block sealing.
originally there is only thin paper gasket. it is difficult to get them. will it be ok if i use reinzosil paste to seal there?



Crank. what about the trick with the piston rings? smile.gif mine are with the new ones, block honed, waiting for crankshaft half rings.





aaand i like this color biggrin.gif





This post has been edited by niaugi: 13th October 2013 04:31
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Crank
post 13th October 2013 07:29
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1.4 16v
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hi.
You get something wrong, old man.

The trick with the pistonring is that I use the pistonringfittool for fitting the smal rolers in the syncro for 1 and 2 gear.

Its is nearly unimposible with out that trick.

Pic followes in the gearboxtopic,

Have birthdayparty in the famely. !!!!

For the sealing I use a trick from the aviationmotorrepeartrickbox !

Take away the papergasket. Fit the part without gasket to check if there is propper play.

If Yes, put on siliconegasket and put a thread all along the surface in the siliconegasket on the inside side of the surface.

Thats seals werry good, and what is good in the air, is good on the track.

Try it.

Pics coms.

Crank
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niaugi
post 13th October 2013 07:50
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1.4 16v
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understood, will be waiting for instructions and photos in gearbox topic smile.gif
so will use gasket paste to seal front and back block surfaces.

have a nice party today wink.gif
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Crank
post 13th October 2013 08:51
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1.4 16v
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By the way !!!!

Did You know that this funny thing is the gearboxoilfilter ????

Clean it well.

Thanks for the pic.

Crank.
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niaugi
post 13th October 2013 08:54
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QUOTE(Crank @ 13th October 2013 09:51) *
By the way !!!!

Did You know that this funny thing is the gearboxoilfilter ????

Clean it well.

Thanks for the pic.

Crank.


wow, will examine it closer smile.gif
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niaugi
post 13th October 2013 18:08
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1.4 16v
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another question:
how to pull it out? just smash with hammer to the left?
it makes some squeaking noise when working, so want to change..
or maybe i can do something, it could be silent..



This post has been edited by niaugi: 13th October 2013 18:11
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Crank
post 14th October 2013 06:08
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1.4 16v
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Hi again.

I saw the cylinder fittet in one of the pictures and wondering why it stil was fittet.

Take of the snapring and, you sad it can by moved, so pul it out.

It is wery comon that the cylinder stuck in the hole.

Lot of work.

Crank.

This post has been edited by Crank: 14th October 2013 06:11
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niaugi
post 3rd November 2013 08:15
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1.4 16v
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need some expert words..
did a bad thing, cleaned a bit with sandpaper camshaft cap surface. (red arrows)
result: camshafts are rotating a bit harder (but not hard). cant say how much harder, have no measurments, but one not cleaned camshaft is rotating a bit lighter thant others i have cleaned.
so am thinking.. maybe i shoud clean inside cap (green arrows) to compensate i have cleaned from the surface?
or camshafts will bed in then engine is working..
word "cleaned" i mean that in fact aluminium was skimmed a bit of microns, so cup is pressing harder the camshaft.


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Crank
post 3rd November 2013 18:41
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Ups big man.

If You just grind a litle it is not a problem. I see a problem in testing clearence when cams are fitted. You can only check clearence when caps and valves are

removed from the head, or You find a spot where the cam is not press a valve. I can see on the pic that You did not grind very much. Sometimes it is a trick to

take a way lash from the bearring.

Give it a lot of molypaste before start up. Turn engine with out plugs until You have oilpres. Than put in plugs in and start engine.

Crank.

PS. Of topic !! Just repared my gearbox after breakdown.
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niaugi
post 3rd November 2013 19:49
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hehe, what an exotic view of so much gearbox stuff smile.gif if i only could have garage in my house.. so, i need to buy a house with garage biggrin.gif

aaaand the next one new/old question.. what the hell is that slave cylinder!??!?!?!?!?!?!? how to take it / smash it/ destroy it / pull it out / explode it from that place??? sad.gif
here is the manual view:



but i can not see any any any retainer ring No.1
sad situation...

that gap on second pic of slave cylinder is my 'work' with screwdriver..

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Crank
post 3rd November 2013 21:19
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Hi niaugi.

You are in small troubles. If it stock, You could warm the housing with a heatgun. Try to turn it with a water pump pliers.

It dont cost a furtune,if you can get it. Have seen it for 50 Euros.

If You could change the spring inside the cylinder to a softer one, it dont wear the cluchspring. I have change the rod to a Alu one !!

Try with iodine. Yes, the stof You put on wounds.

Have You never had the retainer ring No.1 ?? The owner befor You had the same problem as You and the rest of us!!

Yes, I love my shop. Not much Space.

Crank.
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niaugi
post 4th November 2013 05:53
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much thank for your thoughts, only i can not understand, how it can be taken off, if both sides have bigger size body, than hole.. this is the main problem.. smile.gif
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niaugi
post 4th November 2013 06:13
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1.4 16v
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and more..
can not find anywhere in the manual, how to put correctly half rings. in my opinion, these groves should be looking as i put them. but if i am wrong, please correct me smile.gif

from inside block:



from outside block:

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GialloEvo94
post 4th November 2013 07:36
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QUOTE(niaugi @ 3rd November 2013 19:49) *
but i can not see any any any retainer ring No.1
sad situation...

that gap on second pic of slave cylinder is my 'work' with screwdriver..


You've already taken the "retainer ring" out. It's the circlip with the two holes in that was present in your earlier picture but which is now gone in this picture. The cylinder has just corrosion welded itself into the hole unfortunately. Do as crank said earlier and use a blowtorch to apply heat to the case of the gearbox on the corner that surrounds the slave cylinder. Then place a piece of wood (or better still a piece of copper) over the face of the slave cylinder to protect it and smack the piece of wood / copper it really hard with a hammer to get the cylinder out. Failing that, a hydraulic press would do the job.

QUOTE(niaugi @ 4th November 2013 06:13) *
and more..
can not find anywhere in the manual, how to put correctly half rings. in my opinion, these groves should be looking as i put them. but if i am wrong, please correct me smile.gif

from inside block:



from outside block:


Yes, you've fitted those bearing shells correctly smile.gif


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niaugi
post 4th November 2013 08:02
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1.4 16v
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 4th November 2013 09:36) *
You've already taken the "retainer ring" out. It's the circlip with the two holes in that was present in your earlier picture but which is now gone in this picture. The cylinder has just corrosion welded itself into the hole unfortunately. Do as crank said earlier and use a blowtorch to apply head to the case of the gearbox on the corner that surrounds the slave cylinder. Then place a piece of wood (or better still a piece of copper) over the face of the slave cylinder to protect it and smack the piece of wood / copper it really hard with a hammer to get the cylinder out. Failing that, a hydraulic press would do the job.
Yes, you've fitted those bearing shells correctly smile.gif


thanks, yes i took that ring out earlier, only manual shows different thing i thougt..
will try to figure out how to heat and smash it out.. have another spare block with the same stucked slave cylinder, one of them must to give up smile.gif
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Crank
post 4th November 2013 08:51
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1.4 16v
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Hi GialloEvo94 and niaugi.

When fitting the mailbearings, look for NOT drilled hole in half-bearing. ( Look for somthing that isnt there !! Funny. ) It is for oil to

the oilnozzle for cooling piston. There is a hole in the blok. I had to dril it, so better control it. Got no pic at the moment.

Once You asked about pistonrings. I use cast iron rings. Last shorter, but seals better.

Crank.

This post has been edited by Crank: 4th November 2013 09:05
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niaugi
post 4th November 2013 20:44
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1.4 16v
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made some great job today biggrin.gif

hole for main bearings oil spray..
original view (very small space for oil..)



ok, lets make some work.. made that hole bigger smile.gif



final view. not extremely big hole, but i hope oil will spray better..




and another ex headache.
first, was trying to hit that slave clutch cylinder with hammer, but.. no way. do not try to do this! waste of time, if it wont go in first time..
took a heatgun or how you call it, one minute of flame heating.. few good hits and it went away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



a lot thanks to Crank and GialloEvo94 for help. i did everything as You said and it worked smile.gif
//

This post has been edited by niaugi: 4th November 2013 20:54
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niaugi
post 10th November 2013 19:05
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1.4 16v
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this is ANOTHER engine, not this.
here i have 1.6 boxer, and.. when you see it, you notice something bad..
facts:

antifreeze is getting low (faster and faster, 1 liter - 1 week or faster).
sludge around the cap (oil?..)
oil keeps in one level, not getting more, but and does not get lower, as it was usual..
smells a bit like exhaust gas..
white exhaust gas smoke.. (more than usual)
when accelerating antifreeze gets low, but when i release accelerator, it comes back.
and.. after drive, antifreeze is critically low, but when i open rezervoir cap, a lot of antifreeze comes back into rezervoir! from nowhere smile.gif

will try to live with that for a few months.
how do you think, what is the problem? smile.gif
in fact, when i will finish my 1.7, i will take after this 1.6. i think it has blown gasket..

p.s. was thinking about heater.. when i switch to hot position, and step on throttle, hear some bubbles circulating.. maybe there is some air in the heater (from blown gasket?), and when engine hot, air compresses and atifreeze gets low..

here click for video:
1.6 antifreeze

visual:



This post has been edited by niaugi: 11th November 2013 11:48
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Crank
post 8th December 2013 20:27
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1.4 16v
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Hi man.

The simple way to check headgasket is to measure co in the watercontainer. If no co, no gasketissue to the Water !!! Maby the the oil.

On the 1712 racer I use coolant without Water so I have no press in the coolantsystem. Thats good for old hoses.

I dont have the heatersystem, but isnt there a bleedingscrew sommehwere in the system.

Crank.

This post has been edited by Crank: 8th December 2013 20:44
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niaugi
post 9th December 2013 06:33
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1.4 16v
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Hi Crank, thanks for input.
in 1.6 boxer found some "mayonnaise" on dipstick, i think the problem is clear - blown gasket smile.gif
will try to repair after some time smile.gif
---------------------------------------------------
so, a bit about 1.7! smile.gif

it is running fine, now "bedding in", with mobil 10w40 semisynth and redline zddp additive (already made one oil change after ~150 km), lots of accelerations to bed the rings in and releasing it so vacuum work its job.
slow from 1000 rpm, all the power starts at ~2200 rpm, was running until 4000rpm for a while, so noticed no more torque, but later tried to revv it more, and was smiling, when it begun second torque band at ~4000-5000 and moooore after, at 6000 was a real monster whistle.gif

one thing i am not happy with, is a bit rough idle.. tried to balance (synchronize) throttle bodies, but no luck.. after some investigation, i think maybe one of throttle bodies throttle plate is a bit leaking in air..
and there are LPG screvs near fuel injectors, so maybe they are leaking a bit.. will try to look after these things, but maybe no 1.7 16v boxer can work at perfect smooth idle..
connected laptop, Multi ECUScan shows no errors. and i see how ECU is trying to keep idle smooth, changing spark advance, but not very successfully.

some pics.. smile.gif







This post has been edited by niaugi: 9th December 2013 09:54
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