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> Black Ph1 145 QV resuscitation
JeremyG
post 1st October 2018 07:46
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 30th September 2018 22:34) *
I can see the appeal of the double-din stereo thing; (in a way- that aperture is MADE for it) but I always end up thinking about what it would take to return the car to 'factory' spec, and cutting out those plastic tabs for the divider-bar, where the stereo is, sticks in my throat.
I've used both above & below the divider for audio gear, but as two separate units, which I like to think are in keeping with the age of the car.

But then- I'm an audio guy; and not everyone can see the appeal of deliberately choosing retro gear, that is 25 years old!
If you can fit that thing in, above the airbag ECU- then go for it! - it's speakers next!


Agreed, going double-DIN would be a one-way street, due to removing those divider bar tabs.

And measuring the aperture, it's way deeper than a double-DIN unit (125mm) - so I'd need to find something to fill the gap. Maybe a cut-down of the existing tray...
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sanitary
post 1st October 2018 07:49
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 1st October 2018 08:22) *
p144 in mine... smile.gif

Your car is LHD, or your headlamps were from a LHD car?


car - lights were replaced at some point due to the usual problems


san
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JeremyG
post 1st October 2018 07:54
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Driving: Spider 2.0, 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV
From: Oxford



Also just noticed that the reason why my rear tow-hook is sitting proud of the rear bumper (you can't quite see this from the pic below) - and therefore there is no towing eye cover. It's because the bumper has been pushed forward a little and the mountings are slightly bent. Hmmm. I guess that also explains the cracked reflector.

The bumper is not damaged, so hopefully it will all pull back into shape. Another item to sort later.

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This post has been edited by JeremyG: 1st October 2018 08:25
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dante giacosa
post 1st October 2018 12:32
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well deducted-

how much 'slide' is there in the 145 bumper..?

The 146 seems to fit to exact holes...
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JeremyG
post 2nd October 2018 06:57
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 1st October 2018 13:32) *
well deducted-

how much 'slide' is there in the 145 bumper..?

The 146 seems to fit to exact holes...


Same for the 145.

The lower bumper mount on that side (which is visible through the missing towing eye cover) has been bent forwards, rotating the bumper downwards and causing a larger panel gap between the top of the bumper and the rear wing, compared with the other side.
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dante giacosa
post 2nd October 2018 08:31
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dammit

well; it's going to have to come off to correct line-up on the brackets I would say
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JeremyG
post 2nd October 2018 13:13
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Well, the new headlamps have arrived today from Taros Trade. They are TYC units.

That's the good news...

Bad news is, they are LHD units and although they do have switchable low beams they will only switch from this pattern: __/ __/ to this: ___ ___

Whereas my old RHD units switch from this pattern: \__ \__ to this: ___ ___

So is the "flat" pattern going to get me through the MoT?

I guess I could just stick the lamp on and try it. But now, the new unit I need to replace is also showing signs of adjuster failure... the reflector unit is flapping about inside the headlamp!!!! rant.gif

I'm starting to feel that in Kafka's dystopian tale "The Trial", Josef K actually had a pretty easy time of it compared to this...

PS - if you're interested in the marathon journey the lamps took to get here, see below:

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This post has been edited by JeremyG: 2nd October 2018 13:23
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JeremyG
post 2nd October 2018 13:33
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 2nd October 2018 09:31) *
dammit

well; it's going to have to come off to correct line-up on the brackets I would say


Yes - or at least I'll have to release it on the affected side, to get enough room to work on the bent bracket. The only aggravating thing about this is I'll have to take the rear wheels off to remove the screws attaching the bumper to the rear wheelarch liner.
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dante giacosa
post 3rd October 2018 10:07
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ha- some journey

I can't speak for the 145; but I managed all screws back, with the bumper already fitted, Jeremy

I've got a 1/4" drive ratchet. to hex-bit socket, to (whatever) pozi No.2 (in this case)

So, it was a sort of right angle driver
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JeremyG
post 5th October 2018 11:11
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 3rd October 2018 11:07) *
ha- some journey

I can't speak for the 145; but I managed all screws back, with the bumper already fitted, Jeremy

I've got a 1/4" drive ratchet. to hex-bit socket, to (whatever) pozi No.2 (in this case)

So, it was a sort of right angle driver


Yes, I have one of those - top screw removed, but the lower one (with the least clearance against the tyre) won't budge and I'm damaging the head trying. So, will definitely have to remove the wheel to get better access...
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david1211
post 7th October 2018 09:30
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Great thread and work JG. Just enjoyed reading through it all. rolleyes.gif


--------------------
Loe to be love by...
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JeremyG
post 7th October 2018 11:42
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QUOTE(david1211 @ 7th October 2018 10:30) *
Great thread and work JG. Just enjoyed reading through it all. rolleyes.gif


Thanks david!

A 4C must be a rare sight in Ohio...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 7th October 2018 12:03
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JeremyG
post 7th October 2018 12:02
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 2nd October 2018 14:13) *
Well, the new headlamps have arrived today from Taros Trade. They are TYC units.

That's the good news...

Bad news is, they are LHD units and although they do have switchable low beams they will only switch from this pattern: __/ __/ to this: ___ ___

Whereas my old RHD units switch from this pattern: \__ \__ to this: ___ ___

So is the "flat" pattern going to get me through the MoT?

I guess I could just stick the lamp on and try it. But now, the new unit I need to replace is also showing signs of adjuster failure... the reflector unit is flapping about inside the headlamp!!!! rant.gif


I decided to convert my new LHD headlamp to RHD using the low-beam projector unit from my old headlamp.

Having cracked open the new unit (literally - the glass cracked as I was levering it off), I dismantled it and found that the reason the reflector was flapping around was not because either of the adjusters had broken (as I'd feared). Luckily, one had just popped out of the ball joint where it connects to the reflector unit. It popped back into place fine, and the RHD projector unit also transferred across fine.

There were a couple of other reasons to perform the conversion - 1) so I could re-fit the original Alfa glass from my old headlamp so it looks original and 2) so I could re-fit the load adjusting motor (the lamp was supplied with a manual adjuster). The motors don't work at the moment - but may be fixable.

Interesting to see the difference in quality of the components of the TWC headlamp vs. the original - but aside from the above, I decided to keep most of the TWC innards.

Anyway, the unit is re-assembled and fitted. Beam level looks OK and the car is booked for its MoT re-test on Weds this week.

Today I attempted to repair the broken clip holders on my side skirts. My two-part Super Glue "All Plastics" glue kit didn't work... I've tried Araldite epoxy resin next but I'm not holding out too much hope, especially as the instructions state it won't work on polypropylene. Hey ho.

The broken clip holders are at the front end of one of the trims. As A Plan B, I'm considering a self-tapping screw through the front of the trim (where it curls round into the wheel arch) and into the wheel arch liner. Anyone tried this?

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 7th October 2018 12:14
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JeremyG
post 8th October 2018 08:22
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 7th October 2018 13:02) *
Today I attempted to repair the broken clip holders on my side skirts. My two-part Super Glue "All Plastics" glue kit didn't work... I've tried Araldite epoxy resin next but I'm not holding out too much hope, especially as the instructions state it won't work on polypropylene. Hey ho.

The broken clip holders are at the front end of one of the trims. As A Plan B, I'm considering a self-tapping screw through the front of the trim (where it curls round into the wheel arch) and into the wheel arch liner. Anyone tried this?


No need for Plan B. Araldite is holding the broken clip holders just fine...
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dante giacosa
post 9th October 2018 03:56
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Good result, Jeremy-

It's a common mistake that people think of epoxy resin as an 'adhesive'- what it's very good at; is making shapes, and if you can get those shapes to 'interfere' with two parts you want to keep together; you'll get a result.

I always try and drill small holes into each part, and let the epoxy settle in, before bonding the parts.

Any chance of an image of your work on the headlights..?

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JeremyG
post 10th October 2018 09:48
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Yay!

MoT test passed - advisories for chipped windscreen, tyres and some generic corrosion issues.

Welding job considered to be excellent...

So, what next?

- weld the drain holes shut
- re-assemble interior
- cambelt and full service
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SteveG
post 10th October 2018 20:52
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 10th October 2018 10:48) *
Yay!

MoT test passed - advisories for chipped windscreen, tyres and some generic corrosion issues.

Well done mate - all that hard work payed off!

BTW I'm pretty sure I've got spare headlight motors if required
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dante giacosa
post 11th October 2018 08:22
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great news Jeremy-

another one saved; you're becoming the patron-saint of 145/6 land!
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VROOM
post 11th October 2018 19:16
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If the drain holes aren't rusty, why not just fill with some seam sealer and then underseal over it? I had some good results with the stuff in areas where the factory seam sealer was patchy to say the least.
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dante giacosa
post 11th October 2018 19:26
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That's a good point, Vroom.


Jeremy- can I ask you about using the ball-joint splitter on the lower arm swivel?

Did you 'hammer' (mallet) that; or did you try to lever it, to separate the hub carrier from the wishbone..?

And is it classically recommended to replace the pinch bolt, after such a separation..?




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