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> Clutch: Slave Cylinder Replacement, on a Twin Spark engine
GialloEvo94
post 6th November 2006 18:54
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Last week I joined the broken clutch slave cylinder club sad.gif ...so today I replaced it smile.gif It's a very easy job that most people (even novices) should be able to do without any problems so to prove how easy it really is for anyone who has reservations about trying to do the job themselves, I've written up a step-by-step guide on how to replace the clutch slave cylinder smile.gif

The tell tale signs of a dead slave cylinder (or more correctly, perished seals inside the slave cylinder) is that the clutch pedal may sometimes stay on the the floor after depressing it (requiring you you hook it back up again manually with your foot). You may also notice that after this has been happening for some time, you start to get the handbrake light in the instrument panel flickering which is not actually an indication of worn pads or the handbrake being left on (unless you did this as well) but will be low hydraulic brake/clutch fluid in the reservoir. If you check the top of the gearbox under the battery tray where the slave cylinder is located you should find it is wet with fluid and the level in the reservoir will also be visibly low. If the leak is bad the fluid will create a puddle under the car as well.

Although a repair kit is available, this isn't a lot cheaper than the complete cylinder so my advice is to save yourself the hassle of trying to do a repair job and just buy a complete new slave cylinder. I got my from Shop4Parts for approx 40 with shipping which is around 10-15 cheaper than from an Alfa dealer. The original slave cylinder on the car is a Bosch one but the new ones from S4P are manufactured by Bendix. It doesn't actually matter as they're both virtually identical and the Bendix one is a direct replacement fit.

This guide is for a twinspark-engined cars. For boxer-engined cars, someone else has done a PDF guide HERE.


Parts RequiredStep-by-Step Guide (click individual pictures for a full size view)
  1. Locate the clutch slave cylinder (under the battery)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement02.jpg ( 280.78k ) Number of downloads: 768


  2. Undo the nut holding the battery securing strap in place and remove the strap

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement03.jpg ( 273.62k ) Number of downloads: 393


  3. Remove the connections to the battery terminals (they've already been removed in this picture)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement04.jpg ( 307k ) Number of downloads: 337


  4. Remove the battery

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement05.jpg ( 111.66k ) Number of downloads: 309


  5. Remove the plastic liner from the battery tray (just lifts out)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement06.jpg ( 113.33k ) Number of downloads: 318


  6. Remove the cover from the fuse/relay box (BBOB)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement07.jpg ( 333.94k ) Number of downloads: 371


  7. Remove the two nuts holding the fuse/relay box to the battery tray (this is on a facelift...on pre-facelifts there are two fuse/relay holders - one on the front and the other on the left-hand side)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement08.jpg ( 332.12k ) Number of downloads: 330


  8. Remove the fuse/relay box and move it to the side (carefully so as not to disturb the delicate wiring/connections in it)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement09.jpg ( 97.96k ) Number of downloads: 303


  9. Unclip the loom and and connectors from the back of the battery tray

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement10.jpg ( 298.87k ) Number of downloads: 381


  10. Undo the four bolts holding the battery tray to the inner wing

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement11.jpg ( 343.88k ) Number of downloads: 298


  11. Remove the battery tray by carefully wriggling it out

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement12.jpg ( 122.85k ) Number of downloads: 432


  12. Very slightly undo the clutch fluid union (easier with the cylinder still bolted to the gearbox) then remove the two bolts holding the cylinder to the gearbox

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement13.jpg ( 336.68k ) Number of downloads: 494


  13. Remove the cylinder from it's mounting points

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement14.jpg ( 123.16k ) Number of downloads: 353


  14. Clamp off the rubber hose the cylinder with a clamp that will not damage the rubber

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement15.jpg ( 129.08k ) Number of downloads: 355


  15. Completely undo the clutch fluid union and remove the cylinder (be prepared for a small amount of fluid to drain out)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement16.jpg ( 136.46k ) Number of downloads: 331


  16. Connect the clutch fluid union to the new cylinder (add a small amount of fluid to the thread first for lubrication)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement17.jpg ( 121.22k ) Number of downloads: 313


  17. Compress the piston rod by hand, slide the new cylinder into it's mounting points and then bolt it in place (don't forget to apply some grease to the bolt threads and also a small amount on the end of the piston rod)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement18.jpg ( 112.93k ) Number of downloads: 354


  18. Remove the clamp and then bleed the clutch (open the bleed nipple, press the clutch pedal to the floor, close the bleed nipple, raise the clutch pedal, repeat until the pedal feels firm and normal)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement19.jpg ( 110.7k ) Number of downloads: 363


  19. Replace the bleed nipple dust cover, re-clip the aircon hoses into place (if the car has aircon) and then replace the battery tray, wiring looms, fuse/relay box and battery (reverse of fitting)

    Attached File  ClutchSlaveCylinderReplacement20.jpg ( 122.61k ) Number of downloads: 360
Job done! biggrin.gif


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piglet
post 6th November 2006 23:04
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Hi GE,

Welcome to the club. We did mine a couple of weks ago. I can vouch that the job is not a complex one if you want to have a go.
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Dodger
post 7th November 2006 10:00
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Nice work there, GE.

I haven't done it, or needed to....tapping on head.

But, if you don't use the clamp on the hose, I assume that that is when you have to bleed everything. Is this correct?


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GialloEvo94
post 7th November 2006 10:59
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QUOTE(Dodger @ Nov 7 2006, 10:00 AM) *
But, if you don't use the clamp on the hose, I assume that that is when you have to bleed everything. Is this correct?

You should only need to bleed the clutch (not the brakes). I've not actually checked on the 145/146 but I believe that as a safety feature on all cars with a shared clutch/brake reservoir, they have internal split chambers for the clutch and braking systems so you don't lose the brakes if your clutch hydraulics develop a catastrophic leak (or vise versa).

Bleeding the clutch is far easier than bleeding the brakes but it's still better to clamp off the hose if you can to avoid the fluid draining out and getting everywhere as it's pretty nasty stuff especially if you get any on your hands or clothes.


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producedapples
post 12th November 2006 21:48
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Gud pics there GE smile.gif As well as nasty stuff to your skin, its even nastier to your paintwork...so those who arent in the know...IF you get some brake fluid on the paint work, wash it off ASAP coolio.gif


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buellboy
post 24th August 2008 11:20
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Thanks for this guide GE!!!GREAT JOB....the pre-facelift are slightly different...didn't have to take all the fusebox apart etc...just moved it to the side.

It is an easy job BUT i found the bit of lining up the new cylinder bolts with the bolts hole a bit tricky...i did try and compress it but it just came back...

My problems are not over however as the after bleeding (and getting rid of all that balck couloured brake fluid s**te) the gearchanges are not as smooth as before....i have a feeling i still have some air in the system or the master cylinder is f***ed!

Will check for oil under the master cylinder, maybe I'll put up an how-to for changing it!


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returner
post 24th August 2008 15:18
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the master cylinder is inside the car so if it leaks you get a wet carpet. id bet another good bleed of the slave would sort the problem out
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GialloEvo94
post 26th August 2008 16:14
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QUOTE(buellboy @ 24th August 2008 12:20) *
My problems are not over however as the after bleeding (and getting rid of all that balck couloured brake fluid s**te) the gearchanges are not as smooth as before....i have a feeling i still have some air in the system or the master cylinder is f***ed!

Will check for oil under the master cylinder, maybe I'll put up an how-to for changing it!

As mentioned, re-bleed the slave cylinder again first and see if that solves the problem. If the seals in your master cylinder are shot then you don't usually get an actual leak...the fluid just ends up going round and round inside the cylinder without actually building up enough (or any) pressure.


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Januss
post 29th August 2008 06:38
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Joined the clutch-less club this morning unsure.gif

Got to the slave cylinder in half an hour with the help of your guide GE!

Now it's just a matter of waiting for the part to arrive... hopefully this week fingcross.gif

EDIT: made a temporary slave cylinder fix with the repair kit and a bit of water-sanding the cylinder chamber.

Attached File  IMG_9023.jpg ( 63.87k ) Number of downloads: 276


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mac.churchmouse
post 7th October 2008 11:58
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Hi Guys
Just finished fighting with the wind and cold to fit a new slave cylinder as per the terrific instructions on here but ....
the damn thing won't 'bleed'. If I leave the bleed nipple closed and pump for ages (on the completely floppy clutch pedal) when I then do the "open/push, close/lift" routine it will pass some very aerated fluid but will eventually stop passing anything at all. Naturally the pedal doesn't firm up.

Any ideas about what might be going on? Is my master cylinder f*@ked? If so, can I fix it myself? Am seriously poor until I can get back to work and need car for said job!! Damn. sad.gif
Glenn

PS: My 146Ti is a '96 1st series model, if it makes any difference

This post has been edited by mac.churchmouse: 7th October 2008 12:00
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shammon81
post 6th December 2008 11:01
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job done, thanks a lot you prolly saved me a wedge. Before i came accross this site i rang 3 garages all quoteing in excess of 300. All i cost me was 40 for part, 30 for a rachet set, and a hour and half( less if it wasnt for two annoying rusty screws)

Cheers


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Alfa146Ti
post 4th January 2009 14:00
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I've finally gotten around to changing my leaky cylinder (did the one on my punto, virtually identical job) but have come into a pretty nasty problem!

Because the pipe union to the slave cylinder is so rusted together, I've managed to twist (and subsequently break) the metal pipe! I now need to replace this pipe, and the union, but don't know what the best way to do this is!

Where would I get hold of a join to replace the last inch or two of the metal pipe with new pipe from, and a new union to go into the slave? Or am I better getting the whole pipe to go onto the flexible hose? Can't really tell how they're joined together so any advice welcome!


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astro
post 14th June 2009 09:25
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thanks for the guide worshippy.gif , just changed mine rather swifly.
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The_Giefster
post 21st November 2010 13:43
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This guide helped me fix my slave cylinder issue. Cheers smile.gif
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asoares
post 26th November 2010 00:57
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I there,
i just bought a 145 1.4 Boxer for a bargain. The only problem with it is the clutch pedal that stay's down. I was hoping it would be a simple task to take the master cilinder out but i simply can't detach the tube that connect's the reservoir to the cylinder. I've diaassembled almost all the fuse box in order to get to the cylinder and it's now free from it's retaining bolts but my hand simply are not enough to disconect the pipe. Any ideas about what to do??? blink.gif

This post has been edited by asoares: 26th November 2010 00:58
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bl4desman
post 20th October 2012 18:40
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All going well until I got to undoing the union angry.gif It's well stuck on. Also it seems to be 1/2" rather than 13mm unsure.gif

All back together and a week of WD40 will hopefully sort it smile.gif

Great guide though coolio.gif


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tom146
post 31st October 2012 16:58
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Thanks, did this last week with the help of GE's excellent guide here I used a Gunson easy-bleed for the bleeding. Probably overkill for just the clutch but worth picking up if you do your own brake fluid changes as well, they cost sub 20 (Ebay, Halfords etc) and are far faster then messing about with jam jars and bits of pipe, having got one I no longer hate bleeding brakes. And no I don't work for Gunson!


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Felix88
post 12th June 2017 18:33
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Great guide! I was able to do the change. However once I finished my car started idling incorrectly and jerking on acceleration. Maybe moving the MAF around got dirt on the sensor. I will try cleaning it. Any other ideas of what it could be?
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