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> Brakes: Front Disc And Pad Replacement (1)
CMA
post 25th June 2006 11:17
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NOTE: As usual you do this at your own risk. If you're not confident in doing this then get a professional to do the job as you can't take risks with your brakes.


Tools Required
  • Jack
  • Axle Stands
  • Strong Screwdriver
  • Long Nose Pliers
  • 12mm Ring Spanner
  • 17mm Socket
  • 7mm Allen Key
  • Sandpaper
  • Copperslip Grease
Step-by-Step Guide (click individual pictures for a full size view)
  1. Prepare the faces of your new pads and disks with sandpaper to remove the anti corrosion coating on the disk.
  2. Loosen off the brake fluid reservoir to stop excessive pressure buildup in the system and allow the piston to move back a bit easier.
  3. Loosen off your wheel nuts.
  4. Jack the car up.
  5. Remove the wheel.
  6. Turn the steering so the caliper is facing outwards to give you better access.
  7. Before removing anything it is better to give the piston a bit of work to make sure it is free to move back and forth:-
    a. Using a screwdriver between pad and disc push the piston back as far as it will go
    b. Pump the brake to make the piston go back out
    c. Repeat these steps several times (gets boring but is worthwhile)
    d. Leave the piston pushed back as far as possible before moving on

    Positions to use screwdriver to move the piston:

    Attached File  Screwdriver_Piston.jpg ( 48.09k ) Number of downloads: 505


  8. Remove the metal retaining spring using long nose pliers.

    Attached File  Retaining_clip.jpg ( 38.87k ) Number of downloads: 369


  9. Remove the plastic cap covering the end of the caliper sliding bolts.

    Location of Caliper bolts:

    Attached File  Caliper_Bolts.jpg ( 47.3k ) Number of downloads: 356


  10. Using a 7mm allen key (I think) remove the two caliper slider bolts and the caliper will now be free.
  11. Remove the two pads from the caliper, remembering to disconnect the low warning light connector.
  12. Using a 12mm ring spanner loosen of the two bullet shaped nuts holding the disc in place but do not remove them, these are soft nuts so be careful not to round the faces off.

    Attached File  Disk_Nuts.jpg ( 20.4k ) Number of downloads: 394


  13. Using a 17mm socket remove the two bolts holding the caliper carrier in place

    Location of Carrier bolts:

    Attached File  Caliper_Carrier_Nuts.jpg ( 33.69k ) Number of downloads: 323


  14. Now remove the two bullet nuts holding the disc in place and remove the disc.

    Points to note: Try not to let the caliper hang down putting pressure on the brake pipes as this can damage them.

  15. Clean up the faces on the caliper carrier where the pads slide against with sandpaper.

    Faces to clean:

    Attached File  Faces_to_clean.jpg ( 36.2k ) Number of downloads: 342


  16. Put copperslip grease on these faces but be careful where this goes as you don't want to end up with the grease all over your discs.
  17. Make sure the face of the hub is clean and free from dirt as even a tiny amount can cause a noticeable run out on the disc later on.

    All removed:

    Attached File  All_removed.jpg ( 45.45k ) Number of downloads: 308


  18. Do the same with your new disc, checking that the mating face is clean.
  19. Put the new disc on and replace the two bullet shaped holding nuts.
  20. Put the caliper carrier back in place being careful not to get any copperslip grease on your disc.
  21. Put your new pads into the caliper and reconnect the low warning connector.
  22. Clean up the caliper sliding bolts but not with sandpaper as you don't want to remove the chrome plating. Try using a cloth and your finger nails to remove the rubber debris.
  23. Present the caliper to the position it will go to making sure your piston is back far enough to allow the new pads to go around the disc. If not you will need to push the piston back further.
  24. Cover the caliper sliding bolts in copperslip grease.
  25. Refit the caliper with the caliper bolts and tighten up to the correct torque.
  26. Fill the end of the caliper bolts with copperslip grease and replace the covering caps.
  27. Replace the metal retaining clip (can be awkward to replace).
  28. Check you have no bits leftover. If you have, panic ohmy.gif
  29. Refit the wheel.
  30. Before driving, pump the brakes.
Drive carefully for the first few hundred miles to let the pads and discs bed in.


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CTRdude
post 25th June 2006 13:51
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Nice job CMA!

One tool necessary on my discs, hammer to help the discs come off ohyes.gif
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Dave Brand
post 25th June 2006 14:43
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Good work, but just a few of comments.

Don't use sandpaper for cleaning. To clean the coating off the discs, use brake cleaner & a cloth, so that you don't damage the surfaces. No need to do anything to the pad working faces. For general cleaning of other surfaces use a wire brush or wire wool. You can use wire wool on the caliper pins, as it is much softer than the chrome plating. Brake cleaner is useful for cleaning the crud off metal parts, but DON'T use it on rubber parts!

Don't use a screwdriver to lever the pistons back, use a G-cramp. If you've got one big enough you can retract the piston before removing caliper pins - it makes removing the caliper much easier. (Note that on the left-hand caliper you'll need to move the bracket for the wear indicator wire on the back of the piston housing out of the way).

When pushing the pistons back, keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. If it has been topped up since new pads were fitted, there may be too much fluid, in which case it will overflow when you push the pistons back, in which case it will be necessary to syphon off some of the fluid.
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Dogbreath
post 27th June 2006 15:34
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Good show...did mine with my neighbour just two weeks ago...only thing extra he pointed out is to pump brakes gently to start with so that no rust gets into the cylinder...but now i can change my brakes, now we need a guide on how to change the variator with tin foil and a soggy bog roll.


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shammon81
post 20th July 2009 16:11
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Ok few things:



The circled bit shows a wire is this the wear indicator? if so its hangin loose on mine, and i cant see a noticable place where it should be.
The dodgey line shows where mine had been put, resting in the rubber hole on the drain cap.

So where does this go pls 0o

Secondly where allen key did you use, cos you say 7mm, and ive been all over after trying with my set 6mm, and 8mm are too small and too big, yet no where seems to sell odd numbers allen sizes like 7mm.


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langers
post 20th July 2009 16:13
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Halfords do a 7mm


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shammon81
post 20th July 2009 19:31
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borrowed my grandads tool box 75 allen keys latter i found a 1/4 inch one that fits ^^


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DIYJan
post 16th October 2012 15:04
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Reading through the maintenance manual, it states that both the screws holding the caliper on the carrier and the screws holding the carrier to the metal plate should be replaced whenever removed or loosened (those would be the screws removed in steps 10. and 13. of this guide).
Looking into ePER, I think those would be number 9 here (PN 46417119):
Attached File  naread.png ( 11.63k ) Number of downloads: 110

and number 4 here (PN 9947053):
Attached File  naread2.png ( 12.37k ) Number of downloads: 108

Can anyone confirm this for me? I'd like to change my front discs and pads soon and want to make sure I do it right :-)
Thanks

Jan
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black 146
post 16th October 2012 15:54
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i have done loads of brakes in my time and always put the same bolts back in so i would say it's safe to do it
this is the first time i have head of this ! and iv'e worked on cars over 25years its down to that person to do it that way or the way he's bean told to do that way
just make shore you got all the right tools you need and cooper slip and sand all the sides off you pads to


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black 146
post 16th October 2012 19:11
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1.7 16v
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found these if it helpshttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Alfa-Brembo-Caliper-Bolt-Set-40mm-/320643297836?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aa7d4722c


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DIYJan
post 18th October 2012 08:09
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Thanks for the advice black thumbsup.gif Guess I can do it without changing the screws then - one less thing to worry about smile.gif
Regarding tools - I believe this should be good for pushing back the pistons, right?

Attached File  piston_tool.jpg ( 37.03k ) Number of downloads: 116


Copper grease and sandpaper I already have, so all should be set I guess - wish me luck smile.gif
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black 146
post 18th October 2012 08:26
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QUOTE(DIYJan @ 18th October 2012 09:09) *
Thanks for the advice black thumbsup.gif Guess I can do it without changing the screws then - one less thing to worry about smile.gif
Regarding tools - I believe this should be good for pushing back the pistons, right?

Attached File  piston_tool.jpg ( 37.03k ) Number of downloads: 116


Copper grease and sandpaper I already have, so all should be set I guess - wish me luck smile.gif




all you need for the fonts are pipe grips
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLUMBERS-WATER-P...=item27c7734d22
and on the back ones you need this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-BRAKE-CAL...=item41685af6a7


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DIYJan
post 19th October 2012 12:55
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Well... I already bought that tool a while ago, so just want to confirm that it's really up to the job (and that I didn't buy something completely unsuitable by mistake).
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black 146
post 19th October 2012 16:51
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QUOTE(DIYJan @ 19th October 2012 13:55) *
Well... I already bought that tool a while ago, so just want to confirm that it's really up to the job (and that I didn't buy something completely unsuitable by mistake).



that's cool but that's all you ever going to use it for but if you had the grips you can use it for a lot more
good luck & let us know how you get on


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DIYJan
post 22nd October 2012 06:16
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Thanks black thumbsup.gif
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black 146
post 22nd October 2012 08:45
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QUOTE(DIYJan @ 22nd October 2012 07:16) *
Thanks black thumbsup.gif





have you got all on yet ?


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DIYJan
post 22nd October 2012 13:53
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Sorry, should have written - I haven't done the brakes yet, plan is for the upcoming weekend. I'll put on a report afterwards smile.gif

Jan
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DIYJan
post 29th October 2012 08:03
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Reporting back, as I promised - a failure, I'm afraid, and a silly one nonetheless no3.gif I took off the wheels, grabbed my hex key set... and found that it doesn't have a 7mm in it rant.gif I was so confident that my set has all the sizes from 2 mm up to 10 mm that I didn't even bother to check - really I feel pretty stupid now - not to mention that this very size is discussed above in this thread.
I'm getting a bit annoyed with myself by now - I'm taking too much time with this, was supposed to do it a long time ago already, and always something like this pops up. Maybe I'll just give it up and ask my dad's mechanical friend for help - he'll have all the tools and knowledge and will let me work with him to see how it's done right.
Another thing I need to ask though: when I was looking at the brake calipers and the new brake pads I got, I realized that my new pads with wear sensors - which will go on the inner side of the discs, against the pistons - have some sort of three-fanged (hope that's the right word to use here) clips on them, made from bent metal sheets, and that these clips are actually exactly where the piston is supposed to push. (earlier I just sort of assumed that they will just somehow "get out of the way") Do the clips somehow fit into the piston? Or did I just buy something that is completely unsuitable? I checked the part number with ePER, so I thought they should be right. Anyway, thi is what it looks like:
Attached File  IMG_7743.JPG ( 117.67k ) Number of downloads: 117

As you see, the pads are Brembo P 23 077.
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Dave Brand
post 29th October 2012 09:22
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QUOTE(DIYJan @ 29th October 2012 10:03) *
Reporting back, as I promised - a failure, I'm afraid, and a silly one nonetheless no3.gif I took off the wheels, grabbed my hex key set... and found that it doesn't have a 7mm in it rant.gif I was so confident that my set has all the sizes from 2 mm up to 10 mm that I didn't even bother to check - really I feel pretty stupid now - not to mention that this very size is discussed above in this thread.


Don't worry - you're not stupid!

7mm is not an ISO preferred size, so it's not included in standard hex key sets. The first manufacturer to use calipers which needed a hex key to change pads was Ford; they deliberately chose a non-preferred size to discourage do-it-yourself pad changes. The intention was that 7mm drivers would be a "dealer-only" item . . . took the aftermarket about a week to kill that notion!


QUOTE
Another thing I need to ask though: when I was looking at the brake calipers and the new brake pads I got, I realized that my new pads with wear sensors - which will go on the inner side of the discs, against the pistons - have some sort of three-fanged (hope that's the right word to use here) clips on them, made from bent metal sheets, and that these clips are actually exactly where the piston is supposed to push. (earlier I just sort of assumed that they will just somehow "get out of the way") Do the clips somehow fit into the piston?


The clips fit inside the piston - often a very tight fit.

This post has been edited by Dave Brand: 29th October 2012 09:22
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DIYJan
post 31st October 2012 09:39
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QUOTE(Dave Brand @ 29th October 2012 10:22) *
The clips fit inside the piston - often a very tight fit.


Thanks Dave - I'm glad to hear at least that the pads are of the right kind

Jan
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