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> Alarm / Central Locking: Programming Remote Controls Into The Remote Receiver, For both Infrared (IR) and Radio Frequency (RF) systems
GialloEvo94
post 28th September 2016 10:58
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QUOTE(aero_mati @ 28th September 2016 03:12) *
I have a problem with my alarm remote control (black IR TRW one), I got the car a month and a half ago, the control wasn't working, so I replaced the batteries and it didn't work. The IR LEDs are constantly on, I opened up the remote and it all seems ok, the capacitor looks alright and the switch/button doesn't seem to be stuck. Has this ever happened to you? Do you know what might be the problem with it?

Not easy to tell without being able to do some electronics diagnostics on the circuit. It could be anything from a faulty microswitch to a short circuit somewhere on the board, or even a fault with the on-board microcontroller chip.

Do you have a multimeter? If you do then the first thing I would do is a continuity check across the microswitch legs. While the microswitch may look and feel OK it's possible that internally it has a short circuit.


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aero_mati
post 28th September 2016 13:08
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 28th September 2016 07:58) *
Not easy to tell without being able to do some electronics diagnostics on the circuit. It could be anything from a faulty microswitch to a short circuit somewhere on the board, or even a fault with the on-board microcontroller chip.

Do you have a multimeter? If you do then the first thing I would do is a continuity check across the microswitch legs. While the microswitch may look and feel OK it's possible that internally it has a short circuit.


Today I brought it with me to school (I'm at a technical school) and will check it. That's why I asked you, perhaps you knew what to look for or maybe it's a common problem. We'll see smile.gif
Thanks for your reply

Cheers

This post has been edited by aero_mati: 28th September 2016 13:16


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GialloEvo94
post 28th September 2016 15:41
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QUOTE(aero_mati @ 28th September 2016 14:08) *
Today I brought it with me to school (I'm at a technical school) and will check it. That's why I asked you, perhaps you knew what to look for or maybe it's a common problem. We'll see smile.gif

No, it's not a common problem that I've seen before. If there's a fault with the remote it is usually that the IR LEDs just don't work at all and quite often than not that is to do with a dry or failed solder joint on one or more of the IR LEDs legs. Reflowing the solder or completely resoldering the IR LEDs usually solves that particular problem.


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aero_mati
post 28th September 2016 20:55
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 28th September 2016 12:41) *
No, it's not a common problem that I've seen before. If there's a fault with the remote it is usually that the IR LEDs just don't work at all and quite often than not that is to do with a dry or failed solder joint on one or more of the IR LEDs legs. Reflowing the solder or completely resoldering the IR LEDs usually solves that particular problem.


My electronic professor gave it a look and apparently one of the transistors is acting weirdly. I guess I'll be locking the car with the key for a long time haha biggrin.gif
Cheers


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GialloEvo94
post 28th September 2016 23:33
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QUOTE(aero_mati @ 28th September 2016 21:55) *
My electronic professor gave it a look and apparently one of the transistors is acting weirdly. I guess I'll be locking the car with the key for a long time haha biggrin.gif

Do you have a picture of the circuit board? I assume the offending transistor is a surface mount one?

If you can read the identifier on top of the transistor (it will be a number followed by a letter) then it should be easy enough to get a replacement and swap it out if you have access to a hot air station or a fine tipped soldering iron.


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aero_mati
post 29th September 2016 03:10
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 28th September 2016 20:33) *
Do you have a picture of the circuit board? I assume the offending transistor is a surface mount one?

If you can read the identifier on top of the transistor (it will be a number followed by a letter) then it should be easy enough to get a replacement and swap it out if you have access to a hot air station or a fine tipped soldering iron.


He wasn't sure, he said that the problem might be the transistor (assuming it's a transistor) or the integrated circuit/chip, he checked the rest of the components and they seemed ok.
Attached File  PSMix_2016_09_28_23_41_24.jpg ( 791.62k ) Number of downloads: 38

The transistor is the one between the capacitor and the component that says 102 (don't quite know what it is unsure.gif )

Attached File  PSMix_2016_09_28_23_41_59.jpg ( 570.59k ) Number of downloads: 31


Here's a video of what happens when I put the batteries (ignore the background noise smile.gif )

Video

As soon as the batteries make contact with the board the IR leds light up. When the button is pressed the red led lights up as it should and the IR ones become a tiny bit brighter.

On a totally unrelated note, your Delta looks amazing, congratulations!! Definitely my favourite car, together with the F40.

Cheers




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GialloEvo94
post 29th September 2016 22:09
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QUOTE(aero_mati @ 29th September 2016 04:10) *
He wasn't sure, he said that the problem might be the transistor (assuming it's a transistor) or the integrated circuit/chip, he checked the rest of the components and they seemed ok.

The easiest way to test a transistor is to completely de-solder it from the board and test it properly out of circuit. If you do it in-circuit there is a chance that another component on the board will interfere with the test results. I always take them out of circuit to test them.

Fiat used a number of different types of circuits in their infrared remotes but I've managed to find one in my box of remotes that fairly closely resembles your one which is shown in the photo below. The components aren't all laid out exactly the same as yours but the circuit itself does look to be the same with some components just placed in slightly different positions. The transistor I think you're referring to is the "5B" one in my photo. This is a BC807-25 PNP transistor (a datasheet for that is HERE).

Attached File  FiatInfraRedRemoteControlCircuit.jpg ( 100.03k ) Number of downloads: 36


There are two ways of testing a transistor. The traditional way is with a multimeter. Martin Lorton has a very good video detailing and explaining exactly how to do that HERE on his electronics YouTube channel. The alternative way which is usually how I do it is to use a dedicated component tester like the one I have as shown in the photo below. You just connect the transistor to the solder pads and the on-screen display will immediately indicate to you if the transistor is good or bad.

Attached File  TransistorTester.jpg ( 94.69k ) Number of downloads: 31


If you can be bothered to try and fix the remote circuit then it is definitely worth testing that transistor (and also the others). Datasheets for the other two transistor can be found here:-
The small black rectangular items with 3-digit numbers on are resistors. The number is a code that tells you what the actual resistance value is.

If all the transistors test out to be OK and the fault actually lies in that 8-pin integrated chip (which is a microcontroller) then the circuit will unfortunately be a write-off and only fit for the bin (or for spare parts).


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aero_mati
post 30th September 2016 04:29
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 29th September 2016 19:09) *
The easiest way to test a transistor is to completely de-solder it from the board and test it properly. If you do it in-circuit there is a chance that another component on the board will interfere with the test results. I always take them out of circuit to test them.

Thanks for the info, indeed the transistor is the 5B. I may replace it or look for a working board, but for the time being I might just use the key. I just wanted to know what was wrong with it and if it was an easy fix. Don't really want to mess around with it given that I don't know much about electronics (you probably guessed that by now laugh.gif ).

Thanks for your time and help Giallo worshippy.gif

Cheers


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GialloEvo94
post 30th September 2016 07:02
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QUOTE(aero_mati @ 30th September 2016 05:29) *
Thanks for your time and help Giallo worshippy.gif

No problem smile.gif


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Benoît
post 23rd October 2016 11:22
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Hi,
I'm Benoît from France.
To start, sorry for my english....
I saw your topic about the programming procedure and you are realy specialized! worshippy.gif
I have an Alfa Romeo GTV 2.0 JTS to 2003(phase 3)

At the beginning the remote control worked properly. But since 1 year, it's not any more the case...
Unfortunately, I don't have 4-digit codes.

To re programming my key, a had to UNLOCKED the remote Receiver, isn't it?
And to do this, en need the 4-digit codes.

Have you got a solution for me?
Do you can "read" me 4-digit codes?

Thank you in advance for your help
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GialloEvo94
post 26th October 2016 00:25
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QUOTE(Benoît @ 23rd October 2016 12:22) *
Hi,
I'm Benoît from France.
To start, sorry for my english....
I saw your topic about the programming procedure and you are realy specialized! worshippy.gif
I have an Alfa Romeo GTV 2.0 JTS to 2003(phase 3)

At the beginning the remote control worked properly. But since 1 year, it's not any more the case...
Unfortunately, I don't have 4-digit codes.

To re programming my key, a had to UNLOCKED the remote Receiver, isn't it?
And to do this, en need the 4-digit codes.

Have you got a solution for me?
Do you can "read" me 4-digit codes?

Thank you in advance for your help

PM sent smile.gif


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silver83
post 24th January 2017 22:40
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Hi all, and thanx Giallo for the useful topic.

I'm Alan from Italy, i have a nice Spider 3.0 V6 ph2 with the RF remote.

The remote working properly for 3 months after I have purchased the car and then suddenly stops..
The red light doesn't flash... and i don't have the 4 digit code...

Now i'm using the master key, but the alarm obviously doesn't work... At my Alfa dealer a new set of key isn't available...

If I purchase a used key, and I sent to you, is possible to read the 4 digit code and reprogramming it?
Or there's another solution?
Thanx in advance

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GialloEvo94
post 25th January 2017 08:42
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QUOTE(silver83 @ 24th January 2017 22:40) *
Hi all, and thanx Giallo for the useful topic.

I'm Alan from Italy, i have a nice Spider 3.0 V6 ph2 with the RF remote.

The remote working properly for 3 months after I have purchased the car and then suddenly stops..
The red light doesn't flash... and i don't have the 4 digit code...

Now i'm using the master key, but the alarm obviously doesn't work... At my Alfa dealer a new set of key isn't available...

If I purchase a used key, and I sent to you, is possible to read the 4 digit code and reprogramming it?
Or there's another solution?
Thanx in advance

Yes I can do this for. I will send you a PM a bit later on smile.gif


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Puntazotf
post 6th March 2017 07:49
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Hello Giallo, my name is Jonathan, I am from the Canary Islands, owner of a Fiat Coupe of 94, I am interested in knowing if you could leave me in factory state my alarm, since I can not synchronize new controls and I only have one, no I have the 4 digit number to do it. Greetings and thanks in advance for your response. Sorry for my bad English
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JeremyG
post 12th March 2017 09:12
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Hi - I've just purchased a non-running Phase 1 916 Spider as a project. I suspect the only key that is being provided will not include the CODE transponder chip. If that turns out to be the case, I'm hoping you can code a new transponder for me - based on what I've just seen on your YouTube video!

Let me know if I've got that right - and what hardware you'd need from the car, and what the cost would be...

Many thanks!

Jeremy

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 12th March 2017 09:13
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mineralman
post 12th March 2017 20:49
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Hello,

I was wondering if you might be able to help me? I have an Alfa 916 Spider ph2 (2001) on which i can't use either the central locking or the alarm. When i bought the car it came with 3 keys, one brown key, one red 'valet' key, and one normal one button remote red key. The remote key however is broken (i believe it is water damaged), so I can't use the central locking, and i have no idea if the alarm works.

Basically i want to try and get the system active again and hopefully get some new remotes kets made that can be programmed to work with the central locking. From reading your advice online i think this mean i need to extract the 4 digit code from either the central locking ECU or the key.

Any help is much appreciated.

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GialloEvo94
post 13th March 2017 00:56
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Sorry, not been around for a little while. I've already sent a PM to Puntazotf and mineralman, and in reply to JeremyG, yes I can create you a new master key transponder (and transponders for the other already programmed in keys if you wish) as long as the CODE immobiliser ECU you have is one that is already paired with the Engine ECU. Please feel free to drop me a PM and we can discuss further.


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JeremyG
post 14th March 2017 01:02
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 13th March 2017 00:56) *
Please feel free to drop me a PM and we can discuss further.


Thanks for responding: I will have more info on this project later this week. And BTW your mailbox is full!

Jeremy
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clubhouse
post 14th March 2017 10:34
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Hi GialloEvo94.

I'm new to the community and thank God I've found you. It's a bit stink that my first post is to ask for help, but... my wife owns an AR 146, 1.6 boxer (1996 I think) with the IR alarm, eyeball thing and a blinking, wee light on the steering column cover. Our son (bless him, not!) has lost the one and only key we have for it. Yay no.gif

It is/was the door lock, petrol cap lock and steering lock/ignition key with the red plastic end. With it on the key ring was a generic, black plastic, remote fob with a button to disarm the immobiliser. We don't have any codes for keys or fob as we bought the car used and were too dumb to ask for them at the time of purchase. Doh!

I have been able to get into the car as one of the windows was able to be worked down enough to use a wire rod to flick a door lock. I have disconnected the car battery and manually lock the car.

The local Alfa agents are an absolute waste of space. Unless it's brand new and under warranty, they don't want to know. Their answer was, "It'll cost more to fix than what the car is worth. We'll have order all the parts ex Italy so you're looking at six weeks and about NZ$3000.00". I know they pulled a ridiculous figure out of the air to scare me off and take my problem somewhere else. Great no3.gif

Could you please tell me what our first move should be? Do I need to swap out all the locks and the ignition barrel with a new/used set and key(s)? If so, would you be able to help with resetting the alarm/immobiliser unit so I can use a new remote fob? If not, could you please give me an idea?

I'm all at sea at the moment not knowing the most economic and efficient order of works and would gratefully appreciate any clues you could offer.

Cheers, SPG.
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GialloEvo94
post 14th March 2017 20:27
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 14th March 2017 01:02) *
And BTW your mailbox is full!

What message do you get? My PM mailbox is currently only showing 31% full unsure.gif


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