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> Brakes: Front Disc And Pad Replacement (2), 257mm vented version
fer145
post 11th January 2011 14:57
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Loosen the wheel


We lifted the car (the wood is that the cat did not fit under the car) :smile.gif


Disconnect the pad wear sensor (only in pilot wheel)


We took screw 12 of a centering of the disc.


Now it's up to the caps.


Loosened with a 7mm allen up and down


We removed the clip


Now the 2 15mm of the support of caliper


In my case it went out the why the pill clip locks into the edge of the disc spent ... easy ... lever between the piston and the pill and go!


Now it's up to the sensor connector


The cable


Loosen the hose and place the disc so it is not tight to the hose, to clean parts ;D


Brush the hub, and also clean the collet, screws, etc etc


New disc, Painted wink.gif


Mounted with its centering.


guide caliper completely clean.


Grease of copper for guides calipers


Clean screw with thread locking


We and push the support of caliper to 46Nm


Compress the piston on the caliper (you can do with an old pickup and a "hand screw")


We spent inside the cable of the caliper


Pill (the one with the clip), the place with the clip inside the piston.


The other pad put it in the support of caliper


Reposition the cable


We put the ad in its support and connect the cable

We pressed the allen of the caliper to 38Nm, put the caps and clip. and assemble the wheel (102Nm).

And now the other side is identical, except that no replacement of the sensor pad.

Then we got into the car start it, step on the pedal until it gets hard. Now it is a little calm shooting brake until the pads fits all and come to their 100%.


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kirk46
post 11th January 2011 15:08
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nice guide fer biggrin.gif

good idea to park the car on wood for the lift to fit under.

i have the same problem but will now use the wood biggrin.gif

thanks cool.gif

This post has been edited by kirk46: 11th January 2011 15:13


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QUOTE(groovylee @ 13th August 2011 08:41) *
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NaanBread
post 11th January 2011 15:09
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I can actually use my wood to lift the car tongue.gif


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kirk46
post 11th January 2011 15:13
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QUOTE(NaanBread @ 11th January 2011 15:09) *
I can actually use my wood to lift the car tongue.gif


laugh.gif u wish


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QUOTE(groovylee @ 13th August 2011 08:41) *
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fer145
post 11th January 2011 15:18
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laugh.gif Thanks mate! use the wood, is too easy all!! biggrin.gif


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cesar86
post 11th January 2011 15:22
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Nice guide Fer! Impressive how you keep everything clean and shiny!

I found that i had to loose the bleeding nipple a bit to be able to push the brake piston, doing that releases some pressure on the brake lines and makes it an easier job. It's a good opportunity to bleed the system, as well!


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930Tech
post 11th January 2011 16:31
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Good guide fer.

Just to add a couple of points on there.



This pin is very important, it needs to be straight and very clean to work correctly, re assemble with grease or copper slip as fer has done and you stand a chance of even wear on both pads, this is what allows the caliper to slide as you press the brakes and brings the outer pad into contact with the disc.

If the caliper can't slide on this pin the piston, there is only one will only push the inside pad against the disc and you'll wear only that pad.

The other point is that the outer pad in this pic . . . .



. . . .needs to slide on the caliper carrier so again it needs to be clean to allow the pad to move, again the benifits are better brakes and even pad wear.

Nice pics agai.
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kirk46
post 12th January 2011 10:57
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can you use a wire brush on the guide pin or not?

whats the best way to clean it? smile.gif


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930Tech
post 12th January 2011 11:56
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QUOTE(kirk46 @ 12th January 2011 10:57) *
can you use a wire brush on the guide pin or not?

whats the best way to clean it? smile.gif


I'd try not too to be honest.

It should not be that corroded really, i just use a soft scotch brite pad and then plenty of copperslip.
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kirk46
post 12th January 2011 13:03
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QUOTE(E500 TAT @ 12th January 2011 11:56) *
I'd try not too to be honest.

It should not be that corroded really, i just use a soft scotch brite pad and then plenty of copperslip.



just checked the rear pads... god there worn!! blush.gif

the guides were fine lol silly me rolleyes.gif

is copper grease ok?

This post has been edited by kirk46: 12th January 2011 13:04


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GialloEvo94
post 12th January 2011 14:32
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QUOTE(kirk46 @ 12th January 2011 13:03) *
is copper grease ok?

Copper grease is copperslip so yes smile.gif


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kirk46
post 12th January 2011 15:14
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 12th January 2011 14:32) *
Copper grease is copperslip so yes smile.gif



i see biggrin.gif


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KaiserPingo
post 25th July 2012 14:27
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Used this guide, and both front brakes hangs...?
It's like they wont loose their grip, once the brake has been applied.
Have taken it all apart three times now, but its stil a problem.
The pins are nice and clean, and I use plenty of Copper Grease...
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Dave Brand
post 26th July 2012 07:52
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QUOTE(KaiserPingo @ 25th July 2012 15:27) *
Used this guide, and both front brakes hangs...?
It's like they wont loose their grip, once the brake has been applied.
Have taken it all apart three times now, but its stil a problem.
The pins are nice and clean, and I use plenty of Copper Grease...


Are the pads tight in the caliper? If they are, you may need to file the edges of the backplates to allow free movement.
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