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> Engine: Auxiliary Belt Replacement, on a Twin Spark engine
GialloEvo94
post 13th April 2009 22:06
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From past posts on here, some people seem to struggle a little with removal and refitment of the auxiliary belt even though it's actually a very easy job to do. The following steps describe in detail exactly how to do it.

Tools Required
  • Wheel Nut Brace
  • Trolley Jack
  • Axle Stand
  • 8mm Ring / Open-Ended Spanner or Socket
  • 15mm Ring / Open-Ended Spanner
  • Socket Ratchet Handle


Step-by-Step Guide (click individual pictures for a full size view)
  1. Jack up the right-hand side of the car, remove the wheel and place an axle stand under the front wishbone mounting point.

    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement01.jpg ( 176.38k ) Number of downloads: 404
    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement02.jpg ( 166.52k ) Number of downloads: 242

    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement03.jpg ( 150.59k ) Number of downloads: 232


  2. Get inside the wheel arch and use an 8mm socket or spanner to remove the 2 screws holding the top of the access panel to the wheel liner and pull out the plastic clip holding the bottom right of the wheel liner. Then remove the access panel.

    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement04.jpg ( 137.46k ) Number of downloads: 246
    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement05.jpg ( 162.17k ) Number of downloads: 239

    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement06.jpg ( 155.14k ) Number of downloads: 232


  3. Next use a 15mm ring spanner to release the automatic tensioner by locating it onto the tensioner pulley bolt and then pulling very hard in an anti-clockwise direction. Once the tension on the belt is released, slip the belt off the fixed tensioner wheel and it can then be taken off the car.

    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement07.jpg ( 170.66k ) Number of downloads: 296
    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement08.jpg ( 146.78k ) Number of downloads: 218

    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement09.jpg ( 144.61k ) Number of downloads: 227
    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement10.jpg ( 169.57k ) Number of downloads: 226

    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement11.jpg ( 166.93k ) Number of downloads: 237
    Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement12.jpg ( 155.24k ) Number of downloads: 220
Fitting the belt is the exact reverse of removing the old one and the circuit that the belt takes on all the pulleys is shown below...

Attached File  AuxiliaryBeltReplacement13.jpg ( 112.8k ) Number of downloads: 326


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jodyone
post 25th March 2011 19:54
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Hi this was a great post thanks!

I've had to change the tensioner pulley but am having difficulty getting he belt back on - the units are the same but I cannot get the belt back over the free running pulley - is there a setting on the tensioner pulley that you know of - or any trick up your sleeve

I have had the belt off and on with the old unit with no real issue.


thanks

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Francophile69
post 25th March 2011 20:05
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double check the belt is following the route shown and you haven't inadvertently mis-routed it...

welcome to the forum!

This post has been edited by Steve Hill: 25th March 2011 20:08
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930Tech
post 25th March 2011 20:23
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Is it a new belt?
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GialloEvo94
post 25th March 2011 20:37
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QUOTE(jodyone @ 25th March 2011 19:54) *
I've had to change the tensioner pulley but am having difficulty getting he belt back on - the units are the same but I cannot get the belt back over the free running pulley - is there a setting on the tensioner pulley that you know of - or any trick up your sleeve

The tensioner pulley is pre-tensioned with a very strong spring and is not adjustable.

If you're using the original belt or a new belt of the correct length then it's likely that the spring in the new tensioner is just tighter than the one in the old tensioner in which case you will just need to pull much harder on the 15mm ring spanner. Either use a longer spanner or get a piece of tubing that will fit over the end of the spanner and give you more leverage.


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jodyone
post 25th March 2011 21:40
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Thanks for the welcome and advice!!!

Steve - The route is definitely correct, double, triple checked...

The belt is not new, just the tensioner, the belt looks in good condition, no cracks etc.

I've tried twice after work, first solo and then tonight with a mate - we removed the water reservoir so that the belt could be pulled over the upper pulley from above but just could get it to fit.

There seems to be an arrow and markings on the old unit that is in a slightly different position to the new one which is why i thought it may be adjustable. (see pic)

Attached File  SDC10003.jpg ( 301.76k ) Number of downloads: 165



After a better look I don't think you could adjust this outside the factory.

I guess a good nights sleep and a bar on the spanner will do the job.

Thanks again
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rsfruitbat
post 22nd February 2014 08:17
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Hi all.

Planning to do this job this weekend but I cant find any torque wrench settings for the idler or the tensioner bolts and I am replacing both pulleys.
I have bought a workshop CD but despite spending hours hunting through it I cant find these settings.
Can anyone advise?

rsfruitbat
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GialloEvo94
post 22nd February 2014 09:27
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QUOTE(rsfruitbat @ 22nd February 2014 08:17) *
Planning to do this job this weekend but I cant find any torque wrench settings for the idler or the tensioner bolts and I am replacing both pulleys.
I have bought a workshop CD but despite spending hours hunting through it I cant find these settings.
Can anyone advise?

It's a shame you gave some of your hard-earned to one of the freeloaders on eBay trying to get money for simply putting someone else's files on a CD because the manuals you have are just be rip-offs of the ones on here that are available for FREE which AJ (one of the founders of this forum) scanned in for the forum many years ago...

http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtopic=1173

Anyway, to answer your question, the torque for the auxiliary belt pulley bolts should be 24 29 Nm (2.4 3.0 kgm). It also doesn't hurt to put a small amount of low or medium strength Loctite on the end if you want for peace of mind but don't plaster it in the stuff because you do want to be able to get them off again if you ever need to :_

Attached File  TwinSparkAuxiliaryBeltPulleyTorque.jpg ( 242.16k ) Number of downloads: 125


The above information can be found on page 40 of the "Tightening Torques" manual pages (this document).


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rsfruitbat
post 23rd February 2014 10:20
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Thanks Giallo

I had spotted that line but wasnt confident of the description being what I was looking for. Thanks for confirming what was correct.

Job all done now. Just the dreaded cambelt to be tackled. Is there a preferred / better set of instructions for doing this on a 1.8 TS?

Looked through the how to's and couldnt see one for cambelt replacement. Is it somewhere else? The CD isnt particularly helpful in going through this procedure in a step by step way with the engine in the car.

Do you also think the dti is critical? Could you either mark the crank pulley relative to the block once the camlocks are on and then remove the belt? or is it take the pain and use the dti to get TDC. I have always found them difficult to get accurate readings for as lift exponentially decreases as you reach max lift.

Thanks for advice so far

rsfruitbat

This post has been edited by rsfruitbat: 23rd February 2014 10:22
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GialloEvo94
post 23rd February 2014 12:04
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QUOTE(rsfruitbat @ 23rd February 2014 10:20) *
Just the dreaded cambelt to be tackled. Is there a preferred / better set of instructions for doing this on a 1.8 TS?

Looked through the how to's and couldnt see one for cambelt replacement. Is it somewhere else? The CD isnt particularly helpful in going through this procedure in a step by step way with the engine in the car.

Do you also think the dti is critical? Could you either mark the crank pulley relative to the block once the camlocks are on and then remove the belt? or is it take the pain and use the dti to get TDC. I have always found them difficult to get accurate readings for as lift exponentially decreases as you reach max lift.

I did actually start putting a definitive guide together a number of years a go but never got round to completing it unfortunately. You can however use the parts of this guide to help in conjunction with the workshop manuals which you might find useful.

You can get away without a DTI gauge by using other improvised methods but if you already have one I would use it TBH. There is a mark on the crankshaft pulley which can be lined up with a mark on the lower cam belt cover and while this is probably good enough, it was only really designed to get the approximate position of TDC. It is better to use something on the top of the piston itself if you want to be sure of 100% TDC accuracy. If the mark on the pulley was good enough then Alfa wouldn't have bothered making a special tool to fit into the spark plug hole for a DTI gauge. Personally I wouldn't just rely on the current position of the crankshaft in relation to the cams by using the cam locking blocks. This is because there may be some minor belt stretch causing the crankshaft position to be no longer in a 100% correct TDC position with the cams locked, or the last person to do a belt change may not have done it quite right so best not to rely on their positioning. Just do it again from scratch yourself.

If you don't have a tensioning tool for the adjustable pulley then just use the wire trick which seems to work quite well (see this post for a description/picture).


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rsfruitbat
post 24th February 2014 17:19
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Thanks Giallo

Just got to pluck up the courage now!

rsfruitbat
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