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> Engine: Alternator Replacement, on a plastic top CF2 Twin Spark engine
Jeanpaul
post 16th August 2012 18:49
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105 or 100?

Many thanks
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Egon
post 12th September 2012 20:23
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Big man-hugs to the OP for doing this step by step! I have this to do on a 147ts.
Warming the spanners up now...smile.gif
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downunder
post 3rd April 2013 00:11
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Team, Just confirming that this procedure works on a RHD Alfa 156 2.0l TS as well. The only trivial difference is that there is an extra bracket on the alternator itself that has to be removed to remove the alternator. Thanks for the write-up, I would have pulled the alternator from under the car if I hadn't found this post.
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Kiteman
post 20th August 2013 10:47
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QUOTE(Egon @ 13th September 2012 06:23) *
Big man-hugs to the OP for doing this step by step! I have this to do on a 147ts.
Warming the spanners up now...smile.gif



How did you go doing the job on the 147? Does it wotk just the same on the 147?

Also

Is there any need for any new gaskets or seals in doing it from the top?

This post has been edited by Kiteman: 20th August 2013 10:48
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JasonHillAO
post 20th August 2013 11:23
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I've done it from the bottom of the car on my
Old 2.0 but I had access to a ramp and dropping the subframe and moving the engine.

Persistence is key haha.

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GialloEvo94
post 20th August 2013 11:42
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QUOTE(Kiteman @ 20th August 2013 11:47) *
Is there any need for any new gaskets or seals in doing it from the top?

No, there is no need for any new gaskets.

Having done it from the top I wouldn't even attempt doing it from the bottom even if I had access to a ramp. Removing the subframe will mess up the wheel alignment so you would need to get that done afterwards which is just an extra unnecessary expense IMO. If I did it from the top again I reckon I could do the whole job in 2-3 hours which has got to be quicker than removing the subframe and doing it from the bottom.


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JasonHillAO
post 22nd August 2013 00:01
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Ah yes very true, I didn't have to worry about alignment costs at the time but yes from above would be the best method if I had to do it again smile.gif


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Manoova
post 25th August 2014 21:13
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I just did it (plus the power steering pump) on a GT. Very similar process, a few different electrical connectors, and you don't need to mess about with the injectors.

A very easy job - just seems a bit daunting before you start.

On the GT those two awkward bolts at either end of the plastic intake box have Torx heads making it even more tricky. I superglued a Torx bit into the open end of a 6mm spanner. I just needed to use it to initially loosen the bolts (not much of a turn) and they then came out with fingers. And the two bolts attaching it to the metal bracket underneath are easy to get to - just a long, straight extension on a ratchet from underneath - though mine only had one bolt anyway, which made things easier - the other must have made it's own way out of the car a few miles ago.

The biggest problem was the discovery of a spare green electrical connector at the bottom of the back of the engine which I didn't notice when taking everything apart - I guess due to the euphoria of wiggling that intake box out form the back of the engine (the GT has an extra metal bracket attached to the back of the box that stops it coming out - but it's easy to remove once you spot it). I noticed the extra connector a week later once my new alternator and power steering pump had arrived and I was putting everything back together. That one, unlabeled cable caused plenty of confusion.

After doing this rather easy job I wouldn't even dream of trying to go from the bottom.

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RUPERT156
post 2nd September 2014 10:28
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worshippy.gif absolute magic.... followed this guide and it took me best part of 5 hours but worked a treat! Old alternator was completely dead but now car drives and sounds amazing! All in it cost me 50 to do myself and that included the 30 for the replacement alternator from a scrap yard. while manifold and injectors were out i thought it made sense to give everything a good cleaning and i've got to say, my 14yr old 110,000 mile 156 is scary fast as a result! lol
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supervity
post 18th October 2014 06:30
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Did it yesterday. Took me nearly 10 hours, with right hand in a splint...

It is a great guide, thanks very much GialloEvo.

However the part of taking the manifold out requires a great deal of brute force, with risk of damaging some pipes at the back. At least in my car (a Phase II cloverleaf) it is a VERY tight fit. If I had to do it again I would remove the counter-torque engine mount.

Also, the cables secured behind to the manifold are a pain to release! It took me nearly an hour. Bloody plastic craps.

The symptom of alternator failure was a winning noise, like a faulty bearing in a tensioner/roller. I had arranged an appointment at the garage on Saturday but on Wed the car broke down, of course, far from home, in the dark and rain. Classic. It lasted 400 miles since the start of the noise.
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ChrisMClark
post 14th June 2015 14:34
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This has just defeated me on my 147. Got as far as the PAS res with no trouble at all. That one poxy 5mm hex underneath the reservoir just won't budge rant.gif
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GialloEvo94
post 14th June 2015 15:51
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QUOTE(ChrisMClark @ 14th June 2015 15:34) *
This has just defeated me on my 147. Got as far as the PAS res with no trouble at all. That one poxy 5mm hex underneath the reservoir just won't budge rant.gif

If you have access to a flexi-driver then it's worth giving that a go. Make sure you use the correct size allen key bit because if you round off the key-way you really will be in trouble...



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ChrisMClark
post 14th June 2015 15:56
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Tried the flexi GE, the bolt just wouldn't shift. Tried a bit of release oil, that didn't work. I actually ended up mangling one of my flexis in the process! On the plus side, when I reassembled the fuel rail et al it all still worked...with was a surprise!
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ChrisMClark
post 16th June 2015 15:43
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Spoke to Autolusso today, they're only half an hour down the road, and they've quoted me approx. 165 to fit the part I already have. I'm considering it, although I'm going to have another whack at it this weekend first.

Interestingly, they've quoted me 2 to 2.5 hours labour to go in from underneath, removing the subframe etc. My issue with that is that the bolts holding the exhaust together are pretty corroded. When they looked like that on my Stilo the exhaust place had to gas-axe the whole exhaust off!
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bl4desman
post 16th June 2015 17:33
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QUOTE(ChrisMClark @ 16th June 2015 16:43) *
Spoke to Autolusso today, they're only half an hour down the road, and they've quoted me approx. 165 to fit the part I already have. I'm considering it, although I'm going to have another whack at it this weekend first.

Interestingly, they've quoted me 2 to 2.5 hours labour to go in from underneath, removing the subframe etc. My issue with that is that the bolts holding the exhaust together are pretty corroded. When they looked like that on my Stilo the exhaust place had to gas-axe the whole exhaust off!


I think it took 2 of us about 3.5 hours or so. But someone had been there before and left a couple of PITA bolts out, which made my job easier. If you aren't sure, best to leave the hassle to the garage. Car wasn't designed with this job in mind whistle.gif


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GialloEvo94
post 17th June 2015 12:29
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QUOTE(ChrisMClark @ 16th June 2015 16:43) *
Spoke to Autolusso today, they're only half an hour down the road, and they've quoted me approx. 165 to fit the part I already have. I'm considering it, although I'm going to have another whack at it this weekend first.

Interestingly, they've quoted me 2 to 2.5 hours labour to go in from underneath, removing the subframe etc. My issue with that is that the bolts holding the exhaust together are pretty corroded. When they looked like that on my Stilo the exhaust place had to gas-axe the whole exhaust off!

If they are going to be taking the subframe off then make sure that cost also includes re-alignment of the front wheel geometry afterwards (with proof that they've actually done it) because the subframe will never go back on in exactly the same position again afterwards which is going to end up putting the wheel alignment slightly out from what it was before.


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Irfan
post 20th February 2017 13:13
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thanks a lot for putting this post up... i used it to remove the alternator from my 147... could not get the second 5mm allen bolt on the power steering so put my hand through all the way under the intake manifold and opened it using a smaller socket set. also didn't have a 15mm spanner for the tensioner so released the serpentine belt using the 13mm bolt. took about 6 hours in total, opened up the alternator and saw the bushes are worn out... will get some new ones tomorrow.
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