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> Engine: Alternator Replacement, on a plastic top CF2 Twin Spark engine
coconut3
post 16th August 2011 17:22
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Right, I had a go at this at the weekend and I can confirm it is much easier to do it from the top. Even more so on the alloy top engines. It really is as simple as removing battery and tray, intake hoses, throttle body then manifold. I did it all in about 5 hours and that included searching for a dropped screw for an hour and testing the replacement alternator before fitting.

Thanks for the advice thumbsup.gif


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GialloEvo94
post 16th August 2011 20:09
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QUOTE(coconut3 @ 16th August 2011 18:22) *
Right, I had a go at this at the weekend and I can confirm it is much easier to do it from the top. Even more so on the alloy top engines. It really is as simple as removing battery and tray, intake hoses, throttle body then manifold. I did it all in about 5 hours and that included searching for a dropped screw for an hour and testing the replacement alternator before fitting.

Thanks for the advice thumbsup.gif

Good work biggrin.gif

It's not necessary to remove the battery or the tray but if it's only a 10 minute job to do that so if it helped you gain a bit more space in the engine bay then it doesn't really add too much extra time to the job.


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coconut3
post 16th August 2011 20:31
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 16th August 2011 21:09) *
Good work biggrin.gif

It's not necessary to remove the battery or the tray but if it's only a 10 minute job to do that so if it helped you gain a bit more space in the engine bay then it doesn't really add too much extra time to the job.

Cheers coolio.gif

Removing the battery meant that I could remove all the bolts from under the manifold from the top (well, the side) rather than arsing about with long socket extensions.

The car only needed raised to remove and reattach the belt


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Oldmanmille
post 28th August 2011 18:22
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I removed battery as well and a lot more room. Have takne 2 1/2 hours to get the old alternator out so plucking up strength to put the replacement back in plus waiting on new inlet manifold gasket and a belt oh and a inlet rubber as I split one taken them off - doh!


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jlgrosvenor
post 17th September 2011 21:10
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Could anyone provide any quick insight on how to remove the two bolts in step 20 of this guide, without getting under the car.

I have removed the battery and tray, but there are so many pipes/hoses in the way when I reach though, there is just no space for a 15mm ring spanner.
What items do I need to remove to get to these two bolts, and what tools have people used who managed this approach? I am going to struggle to get under the car at the moment.
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buellboy
post 17th September 2011 21:28
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I used three 1/4 inch extensions, small enough to get through all the gaps.


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jlgrosvenor
post 17th September 2011 21:42
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QUOTE(buellboy @ 17th September 2011 22:28) *
I used three 1/4 inch extensions, small enough to get through all the gaps.


Did you have to 'mount' the car and get your arm right down towards the floor past the back of the bell-housing, with the socket and extensions pointing upwards?
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GialloEvo94
post 17th September 2011 22:00
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QUOTE(jlgrosvenor @ 17th September 2011 22:42) *
Did you have to 'mount' the car and get your arm right down towards the floor past the back of the bell-housing, with the socket and extensions pointing upwards?

You need to get underneath the car to get to those bolts. You don't do them from the top with your arm wrapped under the inlet manifold/plenum which is what it sounds like you're suggesting. Once you're under the car you will be able to see up through a gap in the subframe to the underside of the inlet manifold/plenum to where those 2 bolts are located (use a torch to help you if need be). Then just join 2 or 3 socket extension bars together with the socket on the end so they will reach up through the gap to the bolts when you're lying on your back under the car.

When you put everything back together I wouldn't bother putting those 2 bolts back in as they can be quite awkward to do due to the angle which they need to go in at (getting them out in the first place is far easier). Mine haven't been put back in since 2006 when I did a top end rebuild. They're not really needed TBH and it makes life easier every time you need to take the inlet manifold/plenum off again for any reason because you don't have to worry about those bolts every time.


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Fin
post 18th September 2011 02:09
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QUOTE(jlgrosvenor @ 17th September 2011 22:10) *
I am going to struggle to get under the car at the moment.


+1 on what GuruEvo said! laugh.gif

If you really can't get under the car to get at them, but you can get the car down to J28 without your battery giving up (or J28 plus about 3 miles) you are welcome to come and use my lift!


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jlgrosvenor
post 24th September 2011 11:03
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Just a quick note, now I am putting all this lot back together.

When reassembling stage 20 of the disassembly, true, the two bolts that hold the intake manifold are a pain to get at, but the one on the LHS (nearest the battery tray) can be easily reached if you stand at the LHS wing, looking at the RHS wing. This had to be done with the left arm (my right arm won't double-jointed bend in to the right positions), but with your left hand it is really easy to reach in and fit the nearest bolt and tighten all the way up using fingers. Then it's just a case of getting back under the car and nipping up that one bolt half a turn.

Granted, one is not as good as two, and the other posters in this thread report no ill-effects from leaving them out, but with the left arm and standing where I have outlined above, it is a doddle to get the bolt back in. The one on the RHS is another matter, and the only way to tackle this is from under the car with a long set of wobbly extensions. Forget that no3.gif
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Oldmanmille
post 24th September 2011 14:48
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 17th September 2011 23:00) *
You need to get underneath the car to get to those bolts. You don't do them from the top with your arm wrapped under the inlet manifold/plenum which is what it sounds like you're suggesting. Once you're under the car you will be able to see up through a gap in the subframe to the underside of the inlet manifold/plenum to where those 2 bolts are located (use a torch to help you if need be). Then just join 2 or 3 socket extension bars together with the socket on the end so they will reach up through the gap to the bolts when you're lying on your back under the car.

When you put everything back together I wouldn't bother putting those 2 bolts back in as they can be quite awkward to do due to the angle which they need to go in at (getting them out in the first place is far easier). Mine haven't been put back in since 2006 when I did a top end rebuild. They're not really needed TBH and it makes life easier every time you need to take the inlet manifold/plenum off again for any reason because you don't have to worry about those bolts every time.



QUOTE(jlgrosvenor @ 24th September 2011 12:03) *
Just a quick note, now I am putting all this lot back together.

When reassembling stage 20 of the disassembly, true, the two bolts that hold the intake manifold are a pain to get at, but the one on the LHS (nearest the battery tray) can be easily reached if you stand at the LHS wing, looking at the RHS wing. This had to be done with the left arm (my right arm won't double-jointed bend in to the right positions), but with your left hand it is really easy to reach in and fit the nearest bolt and tighten all the way up using fingers. Then it's just a case of getting back under the car and nipping up that one bolt half a turn.

Granted, one is not as good as two, and the other posters in this thread report no ill-effects from leaving them out, but with the left arm and standing where I have outlined above, it is a doddle to get the bolt back in. The one on the RHS is another matter, and the only way to tackle this is from under the car with a long set of wobbly extensions. Forget that no3.gif


I worked from the top to undo those two bolts with no difficulty at all however I have left both of them out with no detriment.....


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addamski1980
post 31st July 2012 11:06
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ive got to do this job as my alternator failed on the way home from picking my car up from the impound yard not a good day wish me luck and as its p**sing it down all week here i think i might wait till weekend
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addamski1980
post 1st August 2012 21:20
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winning the fight
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Francophile69
post 1st August 2012 21:29
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Good for you..well done!
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addamski1980
post 2nd August 2012 18:37
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boom all fixed worshippy.gif
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GialloEvo94
post 2nd August 2012 23:49
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QUOTE(addamski1980 @ 2nd August 2012 19:37) *
boom all fixed worshippy.gif

Well done biggrin.gif The job isn't too bad is it, especially when it's not the middle of winter!!


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Red Rock
post 5th August 2012 08:09
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Reading this makes me pleased to have a Boxer!

Attached File  Boxer_Alternator.jpg ( 103.7k ) Number of downloads: 110


coolio.gif

Cheers,

Mark.

NZ.
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Hybrd
post 5th August 2012 10:03
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QUOTE(Red Rock @ 5th August 2012 09:09) *
Reading this makes me pleased to have a Boxer!

Attached File  Boxer_Alternator.jpg ( 103.7k ) Number of downloads: 110


coolio.gif

Cheers,

Mark.

NZ.



worshippy.gif worshippy.gif

They are sooooooo much easier to work on gleam.gif


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Jeanpaul
post 15th August 2012 19:13
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Hello, my alternator has stopped charging from yesterday, 11.9 volts on load, so I conclude that the regulator must be defective.
With it for 50 from Germany, used and secured a replacement operation. I have always bought them (lambda, catalyst, etc. and no problem).

They said they have like 45 in stock, but wanted to ask if any make it worth my model because I have a 145 QUADRIFO glio 2.0 16v 155hp 2000 age.

References EPER shows me entering the chassis is as follows: 46769369, but a lot of searching the internet meeting amount of support and makes referrals.

In Germany are Bosch, Valeo, Alpha and others, I remember 6 years ago I changed the regulator and its replacement was bosch brand, so I think that the alternator will be too.

My question point by not even removed the alternator failed and unable to see your reference or brand, is whether I can buy without a problem based solely on the original references and supported.

Look at this: http://www.partsbase.net/part/fia-46769369

Are all fittings, nuts and other identical? The eper 105A shows me that you have, I hope it is real, and they have in stock but I think 100A is for Quadrifoglios NOT only for 150 HP.

I wanted to have peace of mind before you buy it without seeing it, although alternator send me any references you've been through, no problems the mechanical shape.

Finally, if I were given the option to choose which brand should I: bosch, magnetizing, alpha or other?
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addamski1980
post 16th August 2012 17:31
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i thought all twin spark alternators where the same
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