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> Engine: Alternator Replacement, on a plastic top CF2 Twin Spark engine
GialloEvo94
post 29th March 2009 20:51
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Following alternator bearing failure on my car at the end of last year, I had to do this job over the Christmas period so I thought I would put up a guide to help others who may also need to replace their alternator but are not sure how to approach the daunting task of actually doing the job.

After reading many horror stories from people who changed their alternator and did it from the bottom as described in the workshop manuals with some people reporting to have taken more than 10 hours just to get the old alternator out (see this post), I decided to take a different approach and do it from the top. While removal (and reassembly afterwards) of all the necessary parts needed to actually get to the alternator takes some time, it makes the actual job of removing the old alternator and refitting a new one very easy indeed. Therefore, my advice to anyone who needs to replace the alternator is DO NOT even bother attempting it from below unless you want to end up in a world of pain. Instead, follow my guide below and do it from above as you will find it much easier smile.gif This was the first time I'd attempted the job on one of these cars and start to finish with breaks and taking photos for this guide it took me 5.5 hours (in the freezing cold) so not actually too bad considering the nightmare location that the alternator is placed in on these engines.

Tools Required
  • Wheel Nut Brace
  • Trolley Jack
  • Axle Stand
  • Miniature Flat-Bladed Screwdriver
  • 5mm Allen Key
  • T30 Torx Bit
  • M7 Ribe Bit
  • 8mm Ring / Open-Ended Spanner
  • 8mm Socket
  • 10mm Ring / Open-Ended Spanner
  • 10mm Socket
  • 12mm Ring / Open-Ended Spanner
  • 12mm Socket
  • 13mm Ring / Open-Ended Spanner
  • 13mm Socket
  • 15mm Ring / Open-Ended Spanner
  • 15mm Socket
  • Socket Ratchet Handle
  • 18" of Socket Extensions
  • Penetrating Oil
  • Grease
  • Vaseline
  • Small Torch
Parts Required
  • New Alternator

Step-by-Step Guide (click individual pictures for a full size view)
  1. Locate the alternator which is right at the bottom of the engine at the back underneath the power steering fluid reservoir and the inlet manifold on the back left-hand side of the engine bay when looking in from the front of the car...

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement01.jpg ( 177.58k ) Number of downloads: 1757
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement02.jpg ( 178.76k ) Number of downloads: 638


  2. Jack up the front right-hand side of the car, remove the wheel and place an axle stand under the front wishbone mounting point.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement03.jpg ( 176.38k ) Number of downloads: 570
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement04.jpg ( 166.52k ) Number of downloads: 430
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement05.jpg ( 150.59k ) Number of downloads: 408


  3. Get inside the wheel arch and use an 8mm socket or spanner to remove the 2 screws holding the top of the access panel to the wheel liner and pull out the plastic clip holding the bottom right of the wheel liner. Then remove the access panel.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement06.jpg ( 137.46k ) Number of downloads: 517
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement07.jpg ( 162.17k ) Number of downloads: 397
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement08.jpg ( 155.14k ) Number of downloads: 414


  4. The alternator can then be seen directly above the driveshaft and to the left of the automatic auxiliary belt tensioner.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement09.jpg ( 216.69k ) Number of downloads: 555


  5. Go into the engine bay and locate the auxiliary belt guard which is on the left-hand side in the gap between the inner wing and the cam belt cover. Use a 5mm Allen Key to remove the 2 bolts (circled in green) and an 8mm spanner to remove the nut holding the front of the guard to the air conditioning compressor. Then lift the guard out.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement10.jpg ( 134.7k ) Number of downloads: 539


  6. The auxiliary belt pulley for the alternator can now be seen in the gap at the back of the engine.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement11.jpg ( 135.86k ) Number of downloads: 429


  7. Use an M7 Ribe Bit to undo the 4 bolts holding the engine cover on and also remove the oil filler cap. Remove the engine cover and then replace the oil filler cap.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement12.jpg ( 151.81k ) Number of downloads: 416
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement13.jpg ( 189.84k ) Number of downloads: 382


  8. Unclip and remove the fuel injector and the variator solenoid electrical connectors (circled in green), and also unclip and remove the fuel line from the injector rail and also the blue vapour return pipe (circled in yellow). Use a rag to catch any spilt fuel when removing the fuel line. Push all these connections to the back of the engine bay out of the way.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement14.jpg ( 200.49k ) Number of downloads: 642


  9. Remove the air bleed pipe from the top of the engine coolant expansion tank and then unclip the pipe from the top of the power steering fluid reservoir and also where it runs across the back of the fuel injector rail.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement15.jpg ( 181.15k ) Number of downloads: 441
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement16.jpg ( 194.41k ) Number of downloads: 428


  10. Undo the 2 clips that connect oil breather pipes to the cam cover and disconnect the pipes.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement17.jpg ( 196.59k ) Number of downloads: 472



    Locate the air intake pipe on the right-hand side of the engine bay which goes between the Air Filter Box and the Throttle Body. Remove the 2 clips holding the pipe in place (circled in green) and also the electrical connector on top of the MAF (circled in yellow). Then lift the complete air intake pipe out.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement18.jpg ( 193.96k ) Number of downloads: 389
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement19.jpg ( 192.13k ) Number of downloads: 362


  11. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle and remove it from the runner grommet.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement20.jpg ( 217.62k ) Number of downloads: 426


  12. Disconnect the positive and negative battery terminal leads.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement21.jpg ( 198.96k ) Number of downloads: 392


  13. Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors that are underneath the Throttle Body. One is plugged into the bottom of the Idle Stepper Motor on the Throttle Body and the other is plugged into the variable inlet manifold vacuum solenoid on the bottom of the inlet manifold.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement22.jpg ( 192.53k ) Number of downloads: 440


  14. Use a T30 Torx Bit to remove the two screws holding the fuel injector rail to the inlet manifold (green arrows) and then carefully wriggle the injector rail free and remove it complete with attached injectors (they are simply held in tightly by rubber o-rings).

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement23.jpg ( 211.08k ) Number of downloads: 477
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement24.jpg ( 180.44k ) Number of downloads: 409


  15. Remove the 4 electrical connectors (blue, black, white & brown) from their mountings on back of the inlet manifold.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement25.jpg ( 173.17k ) Number of downloads: 364


  16. Disconnect the 4 electrical connectors (blue, black, white & brown), and also the black connector to the variable inlet solenoid on the back left hand side and then pull the whole wiring loom across to the right hand side out of the way.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement26.jpg ( 195.11k ) Number of downloads: 322
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement27.jpg ( 203.37k ) Number of downloads: 405


  17. Use a 5mm Allen Key to remove the top bolt holding the fluid reservoir to the inlet manifold.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement28.jpg ( 196.18k ) Number of downloads: 375


  18. Push the power steering fluid reservoir as far over to the left as possible to expose an bolt holding the bottom of the reservoir to the inlet manifold. This bolt is very awkward to get to but it can be done with some patience. Use a 5mm Allen Key to undo this bolt.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement29.jpg ( 144.97k ) Number of downloads: 396


  19. Pull the power steering fluid reservoir up and out of the way, then use a 13mm ring spanner to undo the 2 bolts on the underside of the manifold (one each side). The fourth picture shows the bottom of the manifold so you can see exactly what the bolts are that you are trying to get out and where they are located. These are a bit awkward to undo but again with a bit patience and perseverance you will eventually get them out.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement30.jpg ( 189.16k ) Number of downloads: 414
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement31.jpg ( 198.33k ) Number of downloads: 449
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement32.jpg ( 177.81k ) Number of downloads: 432

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement33.jpg ( 110.39k ) Number of downloads: 469


  20. Now get underneath the car and using a small torch to help you see, look up through the gap at the back of the engine and you will see a bracket and 2 bolts connected to the underside of the inlet manifold. Using a number of socket extensions joined together and a 15mm socket on the end, undo and remove these 2 bolts.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement34.jpg ( 138.1k ) Number of downloads: 486


  21. Back up on top of the engine again, remove the 2 screws holding the wiring loom bracket to the back of the inlet manifold on the right hand side.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement35.jpg ( 194.68k ) Number of downloads: 499


  22. Next, remove the 2 plugs from the top of the ECU (which is on top of the Throttle Body housing).

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement36.jpg ( 181.35k ) Number of downloads: 343


  23. Now remove the ECU completely and also disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe from the top of the inlet manifold (circled in yellow).

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement37.jpg ( 235.83k ) Number of downloads: 408
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement38.jpg ( 211.45k ) Number of downloads: 298


  24. Use a miniature flat-bladed screwdriver to prise apart all 4 clips that hold the bottom of the rubber inlet manifold pipes to the inlet tubes and also the oil breather pipe on the right-hand side.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement39.jpg ( 175.26k ) Number of downloads: 383


  25. Put your hand underneath the inlet manifold from the right hand side and feel around for the cable clips on the underside of the manifold. If any of the cables are clipped into those (the ones with the blue, black, white & brown connectors on) then they will need to be unclipped to allow the inlet manifold to be removed without it being "tied" to the wiring. The picture below shows the location of all the cable clips on the underside of the inlet manifold.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement40.jpg ( 234.32k ) Number of downloads: 604


  26. Now that the manifold is free from anything holding it to the engine, slide it to the right as far as it will go. Then ensure that all the pipes mounted on the bulkhead are pushed back as far as possible. It then requires some brute force to pull the back of the inlet manifold up so that the back twists upwards and the manifold pops out. It is a very tight fit and at first it will appear that there isn't enough of a gap to get it out through but with some perseverance it WILL actually squeeze out through that gap if you pull hard enough on the back of the manifold. If you really can't get it out then you will need to remove one of the front engine mounts and drop the front of the engine which will cause it to move forward thus creating a larger gap at the back.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement41.jpg ( 186.63k ) Number of downloads: 420
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement42.jpg ( 230.2k ) Number of downloads: 329


  27. With the inlet manifold removed, if you now look down the back of the engine towards the bottom left hand side you will see the back of the alternator.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement43.jpg ( 211.52k ) Number of downloads: 438
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement44.jpg ( 189.13k ) Number of downloads: 413


  28. The next thing to do is to remove the manifold support bracket because with it still in place it will prevent you getting the alternator out. There are two 15mm bolts on back of the bracket which simply need to be removed and the bracket can be taken out.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement45.jpg ( 192.83k ) Number of downloads: 367
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement46.jpg ( 228.54k ) Number of downloads: 350
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement47.jpg ( 285.63k ) Number of downloads: 317


  29. You can now see that there is plenty of room to extract the alternator up and out through the back of the engine.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement48.jpg ( 198.62k ) Number of downloads: 421
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement49.jpg ( 169.34k ) Number of downloads: 375


  30. Next you need to remove the auxiliary belt. Get back inside the wheel arch and use a 15mm ring spanner to release the automatic tensioner by locating it onto the tensioner pulley bolt and then pulling very hard in an anti-clockwise direction. Once the tension on the belt is released, slip the belt off the fixed tensioner wheel and it can then be taken off the car.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement50.jpg ( 170.66k ) Number of downloads: 372
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement51.jpg ( 146.78k ) Number of downloads: 312
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement52.jpg ( 144.61k ) Number of downloads: 295

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement53.jpg ( 169.57k ) Number of downloads: 293
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement54.jpg ( 166.93k ) Number of downloads: 285
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement55.jpg ( 155.24k ) Number of downloads: 284


  31. Back inside the engine bay, reach down the back of the engine then unclip and open the "door" that covers the electrical connections on the back of the alternator.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement56.jpg ( 178.43k ) Number of downloads: 413


  32. Remove the 2 electrical connections on the back of the alternator (circled in yellow) and the using a combination of spanners and/or sockets on the back and front of the alternator, undo and remove the 2 large bolts holding the alternator in place (circled in green).

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement57.jpg ( 212.12k ) Number of downloads: 433
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement58.jpg ( 163.57k ) Number of downloads: 343


  33. With all bolts and connections removed from the alternator, simply wriggle it free from the mountings and then pull it backwards and up out through the gap in the back of the engine. Be careful as it's a pretty heavy item.

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement59.jpg ( 174.31k ) Number of downloads: 395
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement60.jpg ( 180.27k ) Number of downloads: 390
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement61.jpg ( 150.61k ) Number of downloads: 333
    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement62.jpg ( 173.5k ) Number of downloads: 342

    Attached File  AlternatorReplacement63.jpg ( 183.75k ) Number of downloads: 317
Fitting the new alternator is the exact reverse of removing the old one. Be sure to use plenty of grease on bolts and nuts when reassembling everything and use a smear of Vaseline on the alternator electrical connections. Getting the new alternator back into its mounting position so the bolt holes line can be a little tricky partly due to having to manoeuvre something around which is so heavy but keep at it and you will eventually do it. It took me about 20 minutes of fiddling to eventually get it into place and the bolts back through the holes.

This is the old and new alternators side-by-side and the new one fitted...

Attached File  AlternatorReplacement64.jpg ( 300.58k ) Number of downloads: 434
Attached File  AlternatorReplacement65.jpg ( 162.44k ) Number of downloads: 367


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langers
post 9th June 2011 22:04
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Has anybody removed / refitted the alternator without removing the inlet manifold?


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Fin
post 9th June 2011 22:09
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QUOTE(langers @ 9th June 2011 23:04) *
Has anybody removed / refitted the alternator without removing the inlet manifold?


I did size it up when I did mine, but the GE method seems far easier!










Apart from them sodding plenum chamber bolts which I still have waiting to go back on! rant.gif


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Keep left unless overtaking - Use mirrors and signals when changing lanes - Keep within the white lines - Don't tailgate

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GialloEvo94
post 9th June 2011 23:02
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QUOTE(langers @ 9th June 2011 23:04) *
Has anybody removed / refitted the alternator without removing the inlet manifold?

Yes, jlgrosvenor did...from the bottom...

http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?s=&...ost&p=94287

Unless you can get the car on a lift then I suggest you remove the inlet manifold and do it from the top which while time consuming pretty much guarantees a stress-free experience.


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GialloEvo94
post 9th June 2011 23:06
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QUOTE(Fin @ 9th June 2011 23:09) *
Apart from them sodding plenum chamber bolts which I still have waiting to go back on! rant.gif

If you mean the 2 on the bottom then mine are still out 5 years on with no ill effects. On the plastic top phase 2 engines these are much less important because the plastic variable length inlet plenum is pretty light. The plenum still rests on the bracket without bolts fitted which is acceptable IMO. Plus it's easier each time you keep needing to remove the plenum again for another job down the back of the engine rolleyes.gif I guess those bolts are more important for the alloy plenum on the phase 2 engines which is a heavier item.


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Fin
post 9th June 2011 23:56
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 10th June 2011 00:06) *
I guess those bolts are more important for the alloy plenum on the phase 2 engines which is a heavier item.

Mine have been off for two years too with no issues with the alloy chamber. I just don't like having bolts/parts missing from where they were designed to be!


--------------------
Keep left unless overtaking - Use mirrors and signals when changing lanes - Keep within the white lines - Don't tailgate

Its not exactly f**king rocket science is it?


If you cut a horse in half, then bang the two halves together, you get exactly the same noise as someone riding a coconut!
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GialloEvo94
post 10th June 2011 00:00
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QUOTE(Fin @ 10th June 2011 00:56) *
Mine have been off for two years too with no issues with the alloy chamber. I just don't like having bolts/parts missing from where they were designed to be!

Me neither but as well as 2 or 3 extension bars joined together, you need a knuckle socket on the end to get the right angle and at the time the only knuckle I had was far too floppy so I just gave up. Now that I've got some much better socket sets with stiff knuckles in, I might now have a chance of getting the bolts back in again smile.gif If I have some time after I've done the brake lines at the weekend then I may try to refit them.


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cesar86
post 10th June 2011 03:24
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GE, were there any symptons prior to the bearing failure?

I've been suspicious of my alternator, it powers and charges the battery nicely, but there's a weird noise coming from it's location when engine is idling.


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post 10th June 2011 06:20
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The symtoms are that the battery light sometime rhymitically flashes at higher RPM, I can only suspect that this is the alternator.

Any Thoughts?


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post 10th June 2011 07:09
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In my experience this noise can be caused by the belt tensioner more than the alternator. However when my alternator was close to failing i did notice a bit of a electric grind...kind of difficult to explain.

@Fin & GE : I've also not had my plenum chamber bolts on with no issues!


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kirk46
post 2nd August 2011 17:11
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im half way threw taking the inlet manifold out.....

the bolt under the steering fluid res was a PITA to get out... i now have a fair bit of skin missing off my thumb and finger rant.gif


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QUOTE(groovylee @ 13th August 2011 08:41) *
(easy naan, the other type of helmet :lol:)

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post 2nd August 2011 17:43
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QUOTE(kirk46 @ 2nd August 2011 18:11) *
im half way threw taking the inlet manifold out.....

the bolt under the steering fluid res was a PITA to get out... i now have a fair bit of skin missing off my thumb and finger rant.gif


go fella.........you can do it!!! worshippy.gif


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GialloEvo94
post 2nd August 2011 19:43
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QUOTE(kirk46 @ 2nd August 2011 18:11) *
the bolt under the steering fluid res was a PITA to get out... i now have a fair bit of skin missing off my thumb and finger rant.gif

If you have a flexi / snake attachment for your screwdriver it make life much easier smile.gif (see the second picture of step 10 in Power Steering Pump Replacement Guide).


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post 2nd August 2011 21:31
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 2nd August 2011 20:43) *
If you have a flexi / snake attachment for your screwdriver it make life much easier smile.gif (see the second picture of step 10 in Power Steering Pump Replacement Guide).


i ment the bolt on the intake mani... but if you knew that then thats ok biggrin.gif

will they fit on sockets?

looks like a good investment biggrin.gif

going to change the clutch master cylinder while the intake mani is off unsure.gif

cheers paul biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by kirk46: 2nd August 2011 21:32


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QUOTE(groovylee @ 13th August 2011 08:41) *
(easy naan, the other type of helmet :lol:)

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post 3rd August 2011 14:21
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got the intake mani out and fitted the clutch master cylinder today smile.gif

the 1.6L intake mani doesn't have those 2 bolts where you have to undone from underneath the car thumbsup.gif


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QUOTE(groovylee @ 13th August 2011 08:41) *
(easy naan, the other type of helmet :lol:)

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GialloEvo94
post 3rd August 2011 15:46
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QUOTE(kirk46 @ 2nd August 2011 22:31) *
i ment the bolt on the intake mani... but if you knew that then thats ok biggrin.gif

No I didn't know you mean that one but I do now biggrin.gif I've got quite a short ring spanner with a slight angle on which seems to get in there with a bit of fettling. It can only do about 1 1/6 of a turn each time though rolleyes.gif Once the bite from the head is loosened off slightly though it can be unscrewed by hand as those bolts thankfully don't seem to be in a place where they corrode smile.gif


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coconut3
post 9th August 2011 18:42
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1.4 16v
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I'm going to attempt this job on my phase 1 car this weekend once my replacement alternator arrives (cheers Alfa Boxer). I'm going to have a go from the right hand side by removing the throttle body and intake hoses and the battery and tray. It looks like there's enough room to reach in there and get at the bolts and pull the b**ger out. Am I just being overly optimistic that this'll work? I really don't want to have to remove the subframe again...


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buellboy
post 9th August 2011 19:46
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QUOTE(coconut3 @ 9th August 2011 19:42) *
I'm going to attempt this job on my phase 1 car this weekend once my replacement alternator arrives (cheers Alfa Boxer). I'm going to have a go from the right hand side by removing the throttle body and intake hoses and the battery and tray. It looks like there's enough room to reach in there and get at the bolts and pull the b**ger out. Am I just being overly optimistic that this'll work? I really don't want to have to remove the subframe again...

Do it from the top! Do it from the top! Do it from the top!

Go to machine mart and get some 1/4 thin and long extentsion bars to get to those 2 bolts at the bottom of the plenum chamber.

If you never put them back on, then it will be much quicker to remove it (only takes me 30minutes now).


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GialloEvo94
post 9th August 2011 20:44
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QUOTE(coconut3 @ 9th August 2011 19:42) *
I'm going to attempt this job on my phase 1 car this weekend once my replacement alternator arrives (cheers Alfa Boxer). I'm going to have a go from the right hand side by removing the throttle body and intake hoses and the battery and tray. It looks like there's enough room to reach in there and get at the bolts and pull the b**ger out. Am I just being overly optimistic that this'll work? I really don't want to have to remove the subframe again...

I'm pretty certain you won't get it out the top without removing the inlet manifold (plenum part). Apart from the fact that you'll be feeling blind under the inlet manifold, the bracket shown in step #28 of the guide above will be in the way (you can see why by looking at the pictures in step #27) and to remove that bracket you will need to remove th inlet manifold. Not to mention that the alternator is a heavy b**ger and trying to manoevre it out through a small gap below the inlet manifold is going to be near impossible (if it's even possible at all that is).

The only real ways to do it are complete removal of the inlet manifold or the nighmare option from underneath (good luck if you choose that route biggrin.gif).


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coconut3
post 9th August 2011 21:41
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It's the screws that bolt the manifold to the head that are the ones I'm worried about. Even when I had the engine out of the car I didn't want to try to undo them. I guess it'll still be easier than removing the subframe and drive shaft. Any particular trick to getting these screws off or is it just a lot of patience?


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