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> Brakes: Rear Disc And Pad Replacement
dasiygtv
post 31st October 2008 23:39
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Assuming that you have the wheels off and the car supported smile.gif

You will need
Discs
Pads, (get a fairly decent make, an auto factors will give you a choice)
Coppergrease
Brake & Clutch cleaner
WD40 or its like
Some one to make you a brew is always a good thing

You can get the lot from an Autofactors for around fifty quid or less

First job, go round with the WD and give all the bolts a blast, have your first brew while it gets to work

1) Start on the drivers side, leave handbrake on and loosen the two 14mm bolts that hold the disc in place (go and do the pass side as well if possible), a long socket is easier than a spanner.

2) Go and slacken the adjuster (long nut under the handbrake, 13mm) until the bolt is a good half inch down the bore, and then drop the handbrake lever to off.

3) Now you can get enough slack to remove the handbrake cable from the caliper, use a screwdriver to ease the lever towards the front of the car and push the cable niple out of the u shaped arm, now would be a good time to make sure the arm is not seized, gve it a good blast with wd40 and work it with the driver untill happy its moving freely, try and work a bit of coppergrease into the joint with your finger.

4) The caliper body can be released by undoing the 13mm bolts, one at the top one at the bottom, while holding the slider with a 15mm open end spanner, this will now come off with a gentle tap backwards, support this by tying it up out of the way......Do not just let it dangle, the old pads will fall off

5) Then the caliper carrier needs to come off, two 8mm allen bolts, and they will be tight, good tip if you aint got the correct allen socket, use an allen key and put a jack under the end, (works for both on the drivers side and the bottom one of the pass side, slide a tube over for the pass side top one, to give you a bit of leverage if you have one, if not try a long ring spanner, put it over the key and then lean it from the top down )

6) Disc will now come off, a block of wood and a hammer, wack and turn the disc from the back untill it pops off.

Same on the pass side ( did you remember to undo the two 14mm holding the disc, if not use a driver to push handbrake arm forward to lock the hub )

Take the chance to clean the ABS groves of muck, but use a soft brush only for the pick-up, wire brush where the disc has been seated and the dust sheild, wipe the new disc over with Brake and clutch cleaner using paper towel (kitchen roll at a push, but the stuff used in offices for marker boards is ideal) and fit on putting the two 14mm bolts back now to hold it.

Time for another brew, your halfway there.

Clean up the caliper carrier with a wire brush and then a bt of emery where the pads will sit in.

Check that the sliders are free and regrease with copperslip, refit with the two 8mm allen bolts (Tight)

Wind back the callipers, REMEMBERING to have the groves lined up for the pip on the back of the pads, check the pads move freely on the carridge, you may have to file the paint off where they sit in, apply a smear of copper grease there (don't use a lot it will get on the disc/pads) and on the back of the pads, put pads in place on the carrier and refit caliper body with the two 13mm NEW BOLTS that came with the pads while holding the slider with the 15mm open ender.

When both sides are fitted, go and pump the brake pedal 10/15 times............then go back and refit the handbrake cable both sides, a dab of copperslip in the u of the arm and on the cable won't hurt, make sure the discs are turning ok, and nip up those 14mm bolts if you didn't before.

Time to go and adjust the handbrake, put the wheels back on, pull the lever up three clicks, then tighten the 13mm adjuster until the wheels lock up (get a mate/girlfriend/parent/anybody turning the wheels , it saves jumping in and out), check the wheels are free when the lever is down. Drop the car back on to the ground, tighten the wheelnuts and give it a gentle test drive.................job done smile.gif
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GialloEvo94
post 1st November 2008 01:18
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Great write up thumbsup.gif Now moved to the FAQ's section.


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shammon81
post 29th July 2009 09:50
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 1st November 2008 02:18) *
Great write up thumbsup.gif Now moved to the FAQ's section.



Im just about to start the backs after doing the front.

Few questions:

Regarding point 2) Where do i find the handbrake adjuster, you say under the handbrake, you mean inside or under the car?

and do i need a tool for Wind back the callipers ?


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langers
post 29th July 2009 11:04
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You will find the handbrake adjusted in the car down the side of the handbreak lever. Just move the leather gator to one side.

Yes you will need a rewind tool.


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'96 Purple 145 QV died from rust - '98 Blue Junior SOLD - '99 Red 145 QV 20VT SOLD - '97 145 QV Track Tart SOLD
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delta303
post 17th October 2011 17:43
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 1st November 2008 02:18) *
Great write up thumbsup.gif Now moved to the FAQ's section.

uhmm I see youv gota delta also ,

Does your EVO handbrake work ? I know its the same on the evo as the 16body 8v/ kat , same rear brakes..

I reckon my recon callipers are rubbish , never worked rite .

is there anything to replace the whole rear brakes on the delta for other , these just dont work for me , .

never worked for more than 2 weeks in 7 years , all components replaced along the way at least twice.

thanks .

p blink.gif
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GialloEvo94
post 17th October 2011 20:22
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From: South Oxfordshire, UK



QUOTE(delta303 @ 17th October 2011 18:43) *
uhmm I see youv gota delta also ,

Does your EVO handbrake work ? I know its the same on the evo as the 16body 8v/ kat , same rear brakes..

I reckon my recon callipers are rubbish , never worked rite .

is there anything to replace the whole rear brakes on the delta for other , these just dont work for me , .

never worked for more than 2 weeks in 7 years , all components replaced along the way at least twice.

thanks .

p blink.gif

Same as any handbrake and rear caliper setup operated with a cable mechanism:-
  • If the rubber seals on the cables have split or perished then water can get in ans cause them to seize. There is an adjustment nut underneath the handbrake lever to take up any slack although if the cable is stretched too much then the only solution is to replace the cables with new ones.
  • The mechanical mechanism on the calipers can seize. If this is the case than a strip down and refurbish will be required, or exchange for an already refurbished set.
  • Badly worn/glazed pads and discs can cause poor efficiency so check those also and replace if necessary.
When the handbrake mechanism on my 145 failed the MOT I did all 3 of the above and it then passed with flying colours. If your handbrake hasn't worked in 7 years then it would fail the MOT. If it passes the MOT then it must be good enough. Bear in mind that handbrakes on older cars aren't generally that efficient at the best of times.

For the integrale specifically, if you want a completely different setup on the back then speak to Dogwasher on the Evocorner forum as he is currently in the process of putting together an affordable solution.


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DIYJan
post 24th September 2012 08:21
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Hi all
I tried changing my rear discs using this guide this weekend, and would like to add a couple of notes.
1. On my car (a 146 1.8 TS, plastic top, year 2000) the bolts holding the discs were 12mm, not 14.
2. You can actually change the discs without removing the caliper support - with just a tiny amount of wiggling the space allows you to pull the old ones out and put the new ones on.
3. Very, very important: Before refitting, the rear brakes pistons must be wound back with a screwing motion, and not by simply pushing on them. Unfortunately I didn't catch on this when reading the guide (English isn't my first language) and bought a "universal" tool which only pushes on the piston; only when I realized that something isn't right and called my dad's auto mechanic buddy, he explained my mistake to me.
Hope these points will be helpful.

Jan
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Buck Bundy
post 10th April 2014 22:44
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Yep, 12mm for me too on a 2000 146Ti, and yes, no need to remove the caliper support.

Don't let Langers comment that you need a rewind tool put you off. Sure it would be a bit easier with a dedicated tool, but I managed just fine with a G clamp and a pair of pump pliers - apply pressure with the clamp whilst screwing in the piston with the pump pliers gripping the top edge of the piston. Once you've got it in about half way it should be free enough to ditch the clamp and just screw in the piston with some needle nose pliers across the face of the piston.

S4p sold me discs for 8.59 each. Hardly worth doing just pads at that price, and very little extra work to change them.
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