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> The Red Devil's Progress Since April 2014, Project..
sanitary
post 18th February 2017 11:19
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Well cool biggrin.gif



san
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Ganz
post 19th February 2017 21:17
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QUOTE(sanitary @ 18th February 2017 11:19) *
Well cool biggrin.gif
san


Cheers buddy


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aero_mati
post 21st February 2017 20:58
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QUOTE(Ganz @ 17th February 2017 21:22) *
Just an update on January and Feb 2017.

[attachment=17100:Exhaust_polys.jpg]
Got my Polyurethane exhaust bungs.


Hi,

What's the benefit of using poly hangers?

QUOTE(Ganz @ 17th February 2017 21:22) *
[attachment=17102:Variator.jpg]
Finally.. after nearly 10 years I finally brought a brand new variator!!


If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for it?

Cheers




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Ganz
post 21st February 2017 22:48
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QUOTE(aero_mati @ 21st February 2017 20:58) *
Hi,

What's the benefit of using poly hangers?
If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for it?

Cheers


The benefit of using poly hangers is they look uber coool lol! Also probably less chance of deterioation. I've seen a lot of tie-wraps on exhaust bungs on Alfas.

The variator cost 119 from eBay.

Hope this helps.

G A N Z

This post has been edited by Ganz: 21st February 2017 22:51


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Ganz
post 22nd February 2017 00:09
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1.6 8v
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The variator cost 119 and the variator shells about 35 from Shop4Parts (I think)

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Old cambelt tensioner with 140K on the clock and the new Dayco one

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The cam tools needed all found on eBay. I got the pulley tool and the cam locks really cheap. I think I paid 15 for both!! The tensioner tools also sourced on eBay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40...ol&_sacat=0

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=Alf...ol&_sacat=0

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Cam, balancer, auxiliary tensioners and water pump.

This post has been edited by Ganz: 22nd February 2017 00:13


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Ganz
post 19th March 2017 21:20
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Update on the project.

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Balance belt tensioner

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VDO gauges with carbon fibre mount

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Location of bulkhead hole for VDO gauges. I used a 6.5mm drill and carefully drilled into the rubber grommet of the main wiring loom.

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Used a wood screw to open up the hole.

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Fed the wire through.

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Wire inside the engine bay


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dante giacosa
post 28th March 2017 13:46
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the quality of work on this is fantastic...
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Ganz
post 29th March 2017 23:32
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 28th March 2017 14:46) *
the quality of work on this is fantastic...


Thanks mate! If I see a rusty bolt I start twitching lol! Just putting it together with love and care. Wish I could take the engine out and give it the full treatment but I'd be working on it for another couple of years if I did that.


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Ganz
post 1st May 2017 23:17
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April's work.

I had to get the balance belt pulley off the crank. Tried a variety of pulleys..

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The one on the left is a cheap Chinese 3 leg gear puller.. waste of time didn't budge a mm. My own gear puller the same. The big b**ger on the right which I brought from the NEC Practical Classics for 8 made easy work of it.

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Brought some heat shield. Makes the engine bay look a lot smarter.

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Got the corner of my original cam cover welded up. This usually cracks because people over tighten the bolt.


Put the Halfords buffer kit to use.
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I put the buffing bar in the vice and rolled the drill end over it.

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I buffed off some of the red but I quite like the weathered look.

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I don't suppose anyone knows what this bracket goes??

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The variator would not budge!! Even with this breaker bar.

VDO wiring:
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I spliced into one of the the ignition blocks. The Blue wire is the key-operated side lights. I spliced a blue wire from it for the gauge illuminations. the red wire is a key-operated wire for power to the gauges.

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I put my oil temperature sensor into one of the plugs on the oil filter housing.

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Made sure I covered up the sensor wires with a new wiring sleeve

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I'll post the rest of the wiring tomorrow


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Ganz
post 10th May 2017 23:28
Post #150 | Print


1.6 8v
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Just wanted to mention the resistance of the variator rant.gif The variator would not budge a mm. My make shift tool wouldn't shift it. I

Attached Image

brought the Alfa variator tool and with a breaker bar but still it wouldn't budge.


In the end I had to take it to my local *Alfa garage. An impact gun was used but to no avail. Then we clamped the camshaft in a vice. One person holding the cam in the vice and using a bigger impact gun, the type you use to get centre axle nuts off but to no avail!! My bruv-in law said he had not seen one that tight before and usually they come off easily with an impact gun. In the end I was instructed to hold a MAP torch (you can just see the red handle of the MAP gun) on it for 5 minutes (800 degrees of heat, you can see the variator 'smoking' in the pic) until the oil inside the variator caught fire. Second go with the massive F*** off impact gun and off it came biggrin.gif

*Intaservices in Leics

Attached Image


This post has been edited by Ganz: 10th May 2017 23:33


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Ganz
post 22nd May 2017 22:41
Post #151 | Print


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Finally I get to post the VDO gauge photos.

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I took the live feed from the ignition block. Red and blue wire is the live feed for the gauges and the blue and white wire is from the sidelights so the gauges are only illuminated when you turn the sidelights/lights on.

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This is where my ground wire connects to.

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The green and black wire is for the oil temp gauge sensor and the blue and grey wire is for the oil pressure sensor

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This is where i feed the two sensor wires through the bulkhead. Also used some wiring dressing to protect the wires.

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Fed into the centre console like this.

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This is my make-shift wiring diagram lol!

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I used a couple of inline fuse holders for the live feeds and sidelight feeds

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Used some silicone tape for the wiring. The two sensor wires from the engine bay (oil temp and oil pressure)


The following are pics to illustrate my setup
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Attaching the gauges was really tricky

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Trying to figure how to connect the gauges and then install the gauges with the facia.

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Finally they're in!

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I had purchased some green illumination bulbs for the gauges but it appears some shine brighter than the others.

I had always wanted to do this mod smile.gif

This post has been edited by Ganz: 22nd May 2017 22:47


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Ganz
post 11th June 2017 00:37
Post #152 | Print


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Almost there now..

Bolting the cylinder head on.

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Prepping and cleaned the block with a stanley knife blade and carb cleaner. I am having all the pistons halfway down so when I assmeble the camshafts I won't get any valves hitting the pistons. I can always find TDC later on.

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Put the dowels in and the Payen head gasket. I tried the bit's of card/rolled paper to line the head up but the cylinder head weighed so much I could never get the bits of paper to line up with the holes. I ended up not bothering with the bits of paper sticking out. You don't need to do this as the weight of the cylinder head was enough to line up with the dowels and sit on the block.

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The cylinder head with inlet manifold attached.

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In all its glory.

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I marked the new stretch head bolts with white paint so you know the last one you tightened. I didn't think I needed this as you this isn't a job where you want to take a 10 minute break - but it was useful in knowing how much each bolt turned and where they ended up. When you tighten the bolts 90 degrees try to do it slowly as you don't want to make the bolts brittle by stretching them too quickly. The angle torque took me a while to use. I had to insert the allen key component into camshaft block dowels as you can see into the picture. Otherwise the whole gauge would turn! I practiced on my rear wheel nuts to familiarise myself with the angle torque which I have never used before. Don't forget to use Copaslip grease on the head bolt threads and under the bolt head where it meets the washer.

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Dismantling and cleaning the hydraulic buckets. I recommend doing this as the plunger inside the bucket is full of oil. Once this is done when you crank the engine over (without igniting the engine sparks) the new oil will feed into the buckets. When I assembled the buckets the plungers actually moved up and down unlike before I dismantled when they were solid.

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To knock the plungers out you have hit the bucket on to some aluminum about 5-6 times before they come out. It amazing how much oil had been retained. I cleaned the buckets in diesel and the plunger part with carb cleaner aerosol.

Adios!

This post has been edited by Ganz: 11th June 2017 00:48


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effkay
post 19th June 2017 15:05
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Great progress - can't wait to see it being driven as intended! When you reckon it'll be done? Well, these things are never done lol, but on the road?
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Antonio
post 20th June 2017 21:14
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I've managed to read the whole topic and there are lots of carefully and well done job on here...I really like the work done looking at such small but great details like the new "U" clips fitted to brake hoses supports, those are the type of things that shows that a proper restoration project has been done, not like most people who only thinks on a good respray and good looking interior (at least, here is like this..).

P.S To dismantle the hydraulic tappets (buckets), you hitted them on the face that meets the camshafts?

Keep up the good work!
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Ganz
post 25th June 2017 00:04
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QUOTE(Antonio @ 20th June 2017 22:14) *
I've managed to read the whole topic and there are lots of carefully and well done job on here...I really like the work done looking at such small but great details like the new "U" clips fitted to brake hoses supports, those are the type of things that shows that a proper restoration project has been done, not like most people who only thinks on a good respray and good looking interior (at least, here is like this..).

P.S To dismantle the hydraulic tappets (buckets), you hitted them on the face that meets the camshafts?

Keep up the good work!


Hola Antonio

Es nada pero thanks for your kind compliments smile.gif Yeah, I couldn't use those crusty old U clips with new braided hose. Just couldn't do that. It's always been that way with me since I built a Matchless G5 350 motorbike when I was 16 years old. I learnt a lot from my good friend at the time who I looked up to and I guess was my mentor. He had a eye for detail which I totally appreciated and admired because the end results always looked fantastic!. Sometimes it is difficult because a bolt or washer that is rusty.. I have to replace it. Hence the amount of time it has taken to get this far. You are right though I see lot of great looking cars but underneath when they are on the ramps.. it's pure corrosion like mine was.

"Restoration".. it's miles away from that and restorations has been never been something that has interested me. When I see those 'show' cars at events I feel sad for the car that it can never really get driven and used which was the purpose behind the design. For me the attention to 'some' detail (but not all lol) is just my philosophy if you had to give it a description. The paint job will be the thing I won't bother to do as I like the original scratches etc. However I am getting the side skirts, rear roof spoiler and plastic part resprayed.

On the hydraulic buckets question you slam them down as hard as you can on some aluminum hollow face down. In other words the camshaft side is at the top. It takes about 4-5 hard slams -really hard slams before the plungers pop out which are inside the bucket. I suggest doing the 16 buckets over two days or you might damage your hand/wrist if you're a lightweight like me!

This post has been edited by Ganz: 25th June 2017 00:26


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Ganz
post 25th June 2017 00:34
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QUOTE(effkay @ 19th June 2017 16:05) *
Great progress - can't wait to see it being driven as intended! When you reckon it'll be done? Well, these things are never done lol, but on the road?


Cheers buddy. You know, I was set to put the cambelt on today only to find out that the cam locks do not match the profile of the camshalft lobes! I must have brought a set of 1.6 cam locks. b**ger rant.gif I had a cup of tea and a laugh about it being 2018 before I get the Red Baron on the road (don't know where I got Red Devil from(!?)).

Part of the plan this year was to go to Le Mans which I have now missed. The National Alfa Day looks unlikely. I am still on the look out for a 147 GTA under 5k if I ever find one now. i had a ride in one the other month and the acceleration and braking was brutal. I'll always keep the 145 though as I hate the drop link suspension on the 147s they don't last very long!

This post has been edited by Ganz: 25th June 2017 00:36


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Ganz
post 25th June 2017 22:47
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Latest work on the 145 QV.

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Getting some inspiration from a forum member here wink.gif

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Not sure whether I like it but at least I did it: the red bits (Rosso red) that is.

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Latest on the engine bay. Covered the battery with heat reflector matting.

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Finally brought the red seal for the cam cover. I ordered it from Italy.

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Looks great compared to my washed out original. As in its actually red.

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Wrapped my manifold.

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Got some wheel adapters made for my 108PCD OZ Supperleggeras to fit the 98PCD

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A great job from Latvia. Good job guys.

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More engine bay pics with the red pulleys

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Can't get enuff as I'm an engine man myself.

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Luvvely stuff.

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Cams in and all lubed up!

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De-greased and sprayed the gearbox cover.

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Bolted on.


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Ganz
post 10th July 2017 21:07
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Finally got my cambelt and balance belts on.

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Had to buy some cam locks for the 2.0 ts as the ones I had had a different profile and were for a 1.6TS

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Finally got the cambelt on

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TDC gauge made for very accurate TDC

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Actually had to take the cambelt off as I wasn't sure about the tensioner being right. Think I was over cautious. On it went again and I had tensioned the tensioner as the manual says. I did noticed that as I manually turned the engine by hand the tensioner pointer would move about. I take it this is normal as the tensioner's job is to take up the slack

Attached Image

Painted the bottom engine block as it was a bit rusty

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All set now for all the ancillaries to go on and fire the Red beast up


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zanetti
post 18th July 2017 05:57
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QUOTE(Ganz @ 10th July 2017 23:07) *
Finally got my cambelt and balance belts on.

Attached Image

Had to buy some cam locks for the 2.0 ts as the ones I had had a different profile and were for a 1.6TS

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Finally got the cambelt on

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TDC gauge made for very accurate TDC

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Actually had to take the cambelt off as I wasn't sure about the tensioner being right. Think I was over cautious. On it went again and I had tensioned the tensioner as the manual says. I did noticed that as I manually turned the engine by hand the tensioner pointer would move about. I take it this is normal as the tensioner's job is to take up the slack

Attached Image

Painted the bottom engine block as it was a bit rusty

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All set now for all the ancillaries to go on and fire the Red beast up




Awesome job!
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dante giacosa
post 18th July 2017 13:02
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not long now, eh..?

I love the gearbox cover- was it 'just' the external bolts to remove it..?

Did anything move internally when you got it off..?

I hadn't thought of the oil filter housing for the temperature gauge sender- (might save me having the get a 155 sump) have you got a picture of where you sited the pressure-sender? Oh- hangon- this was in another thread wasn't it..?

Is it opposite the battery..?

Terrific quality of work- I'd travel along way to see this car at a meetup...

This post has been edited by dante giacosa: 18th July 2017 13:11
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