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> Black Ph1 145 QV resuscitation
donutty
post 29th November 2018 12:48
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Many thanks for this topic chock-full of useful info Jeremy. I have just acquired a P reg 145 Cloverleaf in Purple in very similar condition to yours, right down to the grimy engine bay and rusted up fuel pump.

I will study the previous 11 pages of this topic with much interest as I hope to learn a lot from your overhauls worshippy.gif . You have made tons of progress, but my first challenge is fitting the new pump and hoping to hear her fire up for the first time! (starter motor is sluggish, but we have spark and ECU reports no stored errors!!)
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dante giacosa
post 29th November 2018 13:02
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Hey Donutty

welcome along!

whereabouts you based..?
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donutty
post 29th November 2018 15:24
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 29th November 2018 13:02) *
Hey Donutty

welcome along!

whereabouts you based..?


Ciao all...

Pretty much equidistant from Barnsley, Rotherham and Doncaster, but the car is laid up at my poppas near Selby.
That is what makes it frustrating for me to work on it; only possible at weekends. My dad is a mechanic, helpfully, but has other peoples cars to fix too wink.gif

I too might start my own restoration topic that I hope will be followed as eagerly, but I cannot promise that the speed of progress will be anything like J's 145.
There are lots of things to sort out listed in no particular order, but getting it fired up, idling and performing correctly will be the make or literally 'break' decision:

1) Get some fuel to the engine! (rusted up and seized fuel pump but nowhere as bad as Jeremy's)
2) See what is causing very sluggish turn-over (gunked up engine, weak starter motor?)
3) Italian electrics! BBoB is nasty and is probably going to be temperamental
4) Italian steel! Subframe under the front wheelarches would be a MOT fail and needs plate welding up. Some rust on the sills
5) Brake components resemble something seen on Time Team. Were seized on but cracked loose upon being winched onto the transporter
6) Lots of cosmetic and non critical annoyances:
  • Offside wing mirror is taped on!! and NS one is cracked
  • Somebody broke the clips and has used woodscrews on the skirts!
  • Windscreen is de-laminating at the bottom, but not affecting view as only visible from outside
  • Big scratch on NS door
  • One spoke from the front grille is broken off
  • Wing mirrors adjuster switch missing and gap between the two switch elements in the centre console is broken
  • Aftermarket alarm badly installed and a numeric pinpad stuck to the top of the windscreen!
  • Seems the CD changer has been robbed and there are remains of an aftermarket carphone wiring loom or something under the dash
  • Very worn covering on steering wheel and gearknob
  • NS front alloys very kerbed
  • Rear bumper reflector smashed
  • Some bubbling paint on the roof
  • Roof lining coming away at the top of the windscreen


Unknowns:
1) Functional state of the A/C, ABS, power steering, alternator, anything that needs to be tested with engine running. Also, what error codes will pop up when it is running after 10 years!?
2) Suspension (apart from being towed at 5 MPH)
3) Dangling brown wire near the engine fan that looks like it went to another module (maybe only fitted on non-A/C models, but why fit the wire then??)

Good points:

a) It tries to turn over, has a spark (yay! no Alfa Code lockout!), engine seems solid from the outside
b) Electric sunroof works fine, as do the power windows.
c) Exhaust looks OK
c) Radio works


And plenty more 'fun' to be discovered I bet!!!

Anyway, I'll stop hi-jacking.
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JeremyG
post 30th November 2018 18:40
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 28th November 2018 16:53) *
that's very kind; thank you

you are somewhat uniquely placed to answer this-
I've done a search for the word 'undertray' and the other two results are from 2010!!!


So... a couple of photos that might help...

At the front - there are two bolts that attach to the radiator support panel. This is always rusty - mine was no exception and I ended up pulling the bolts downwards to remove them, taking a few chunks of the support panel with them.

Attached Image


I will probably replace the support panel whenever I need to replace the radiator... you can get stainless steel versions here:

http://www.totallyalfa.com/index.cfm?fusea...duct&id=185

At the side - in the wheelarches - there is a bolt each side that screws into the bottom of the inspection panels in the centre of each wheelarch.

Finally, there is a bolt each side that screws into a captive fixing in the front subframe.

Attached Image


There may be another pair of these further back - but the rear sections of my undertray had been torn off so I can't say for sure...

HTH

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 30th November 2018 23:18
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JeremyG
post 30th November 2018 18:48
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Hi donutty!

Wow, that is quite a to-do list...

Obviously get the engine fired first (sluggish turnover is surely battery related?) - then figure out what's needed for an MoT.

If that's do-able, well, you'll probably have already spent what the car's worth on it.

So then you just need to decide how much you love it!

We're all here to help, so fire away with any questions. I look forward to seeing your own resto thread!

(And don't forget to post some pics!)

Cheers, Jeremy

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 30th November 2018 19:10
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JeremyG
post 30th November 2018 19:08
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Got some time to do a little work on the car today: had the car up on a hoist so managed an oil and filter change; removed the undertray; re-attached various screws to side skirts, fuel filter cover, rear wheelarches etc etc.

Was hoping to get cambelt changed but ran out of time to do the job properly - but I did manage to remove, clean and grease the aux belt pulley and cambelt cover fixings which will speed things up when I do the job for real on Monday.

Also aiming to replace the thermostat and potentially the steering wheel tomorrow if it is not raining overly...
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dante giacosa
post 1st December 2018 00:28
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THANKYOU for going to that effort to document that for me, Jeremy; that's massively useful.

I'll have to have a think about the wheelarch inspection panels- I maybe don't know tha car as well as I thought!

I have spent (admittedly) much more time at the back, with all the panels that can't be replaced.
Hoping to get to this early next week.
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JeremyG
post 1st December 2018 09:15
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 1st December 2018 00:28) *
THANKYOU for going to that effort to document that for me, Jeremy; that's massively useful.

I'll have to have a think about the wheelarch inspection panels- I maybe don't know tha car as well as I thought!

I have spent (admittedly) much more time at the back, with all the panels that can't be replaced.
Hoping to get to this early next week.


The inspection panels are easy to spot once you have the front wheels off. On the offside, the cover provides access to the camshaft drive pulley for the aux belt plus the cambelt covers that lie behind it. On the nearside, the cover provides access to the driveshaft inner CV joint. It's possible, of course, that these have been lost from your car.

I had another picture that I didn't post earlier:

Attached Image


This is also taken from below and shows the recess in the undertray that marries up with the captive nut in the inspection cover (you can just see this in the pic). This is the offside - ie the front of the car is towards the right in this pic.

So hopefully you will have something similar in your new undertray?

In summary - there are two fixings at the front of the undertray, attaching to the radiator support;

Two fixings at the side, attaching to the wheel arch inspection panels; and

Two fixings at the rear, attaching to the front subframe; and

There may be two further fixing points further back - but those parts of my undertray had already disappeared.

Another point while I think of it - the front of the undertray slides in ABOVE the lower edge of the front bumper.

I'd very interested to find out how yours fits when you get round to it...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 1st December 2018 09:23
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dante giacosa
post 1st December 2018 09:24
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"In summary - there are two fixings at the front of the undertray, attaching to the radiator support;

Two fixings at the side, attaching to the wheel arch inspection panels; and

Two fixings at the rear, attaching to the front subframe.

Another point while I think of it - the front of the undertray slides in ABOVE the lower edge of the front bumper"


Thanks again for that detail. So in fact; the front bumper supports don't come into it at all?
What you have listed explains a lot though- I am familiar with wheelarch inspection panels (now that I understand it in context) the FIAT has the same thing.
I'm not sure I've ever had the front liners off the 146, come to think of it.

Here is what I've got.

In fact- you know what? I'm hijacking your thread again! I'll start a new thread.

This post has been edited by dante giacosa: 1st December 2018 11:34
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JeremyG
post 1st December 2018 16:00
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Changed the steering wheel today - fairly simple procedure, although I needed to buy myself a 24mm socket for the steering wheel nut.

This thread explains how to do it: http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtopic=18622

Obvious gotchas:

1) Disconnect the battery before starting so as not to upset the airbag ECU

2) Ensure you have the key in the lock and the steering lock disengaged - otherwise you won't get the wheel off the column.

Some pictures:

This is what the wiring behind the airbag looks like. Make sure you've disconnected the battery before disconnecting the airbag unit or horn connector (it's live with the ignition off)!

Attached Image


The airbag connector is a push-fit but might need gently levering off. Here is what it looks like once the airbag has been removed and the horn connecter disconnected:

Attached Image


Now you just need to undo the steering wheel retaining nut, jiggle the wheel to free it and pull it off, carefully feeding the horn and airbag cables back through their hole.

I decided to take advantage of the lack of a steering wheel to whip out the dash and replace the bulbs - one had blown.

To do this, remove the two hex screws in the top of the bezel, and carefully remove it by pulling it towards you. The bottom edge of the bezel is held in place by a couple of clips - be careful, they're a little fragile.

Attached Image


Now undo the four hex screws holding the instrument panel in place (you can also see the metal clips for the bezel in this shot):

Attached Image


Once the screws are out, you can pull the panel forwards and disconnect the two wiring plugs, one on each side. Unhook the cables from the back of the panel before withdrawing the unit.

This is what the back looks like:

Attached Image


There are four black bulb holders holding the bulbs for the dash, plus a green holder (which I think is for the odometer bulb) and a fifth black holder at the bottom left in this picture (which I assume holds the bulb for the headlamp warning lamp).

I replaced the first four to ensure they all look the same; they are 1.2W push fit bulbs - Halfords 286. Check continuity across each bulb holder before you refit it - the connecting wires on the bulbs are exposed and easily bent into the wrong position.

Re-assembly is the reverse process - finished job looked like this:

Attached Image


... and once I'd reconnected the battery, the car started normally with the airbag light coming on then going off; and the dash lights all worked. Plus, no more manky steering wheel... this old one will be going in the bin:

Attached Image


This post has been edited by JeremyG: 1st December 2018 16:19
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JeremyG
post 3rd December 2018 12:43
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Fitted new thermostat yesterday. On my 166 with the V6 Busso engine the thermostat has a single hose attached to it.

On the TwinSpark alloy-top motor there are SIX hoses attached, plus the temperature sender for the ECU...

Attached Image


Still, nice to see much quicker engine warm-up, a more effective heater, and a temp gauge bang on 80 degrees:

Attached Image


... especially when illuminated by a full set of dashboard bulbs rolleyes.gif
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dante giacosa
post 3rd December 2018 13:40
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Good effort and nice documentation, Dr G!

I love the look of those older gauges with the green LCD numbering!! It's SO cool when all lit up...


Is all PH1 dash instrumentation like that?
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JeremyG
post 3rd December 2018 15:44
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 3rd December 2018 13:40) *
Good effort and nice documentation, Dr G!

I love the look of those older gauges with the green LCD numbering!! It's SO cool when all lit up...
Is all PH1 dash instrumentation like that?


Not sure if all Ph1 use the green lighting - the others I've owned have all been Ph2. So the green was a surprise - it's pretty old school!
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VROOM
post 3rd December 2018 19:38
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My old phase 1 had a green odometer and a green digital clock from what I remember. Interestingly, the phase 2 temp gauge goes 50 - 90 - 130 and sits at 90 at normal temperature.


This post has been edited by VROOM: 3rd December 2018 19:39
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dante giacosa
post 3rd December 2018 21:14
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yeah- I'm BANG ON 90 degrees no matter what- I've never had a car with such steady thermal management.
Adding the oil-temperature gauge at least gave me something to look at! (As it changes)

I read a thread on here recently, where someone said the PH1 cars had been misprinted on the temperature scale for the gauge...?

A green digital clock! Where can I get one of those....

Has yours got that, Jeremy?
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JeremyG
post 5th December 2018 09:21
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 3rd December 2018 21:14) *
I read a thread on here recently, where someone said the PH1 cars had been misprinted on the temperature scale for the gauge...?

A green digital clock! Where can I get one of those....

Has yours got that, Jeremy?


You mean, like this one?

Attached Image


On the temp gauges - I remember reading something similar on the GTV/Spider forum on alfaowner.com - that there were a batch of Phase 1 (alloy-top) temp gauges with the temperature mis-printed stating 90degrees as the mid point when they should have read 80degrees. Meanwhile the Phase 2 (plastic top) engines run at 90degrees. Maybe that helps them run cleaner? To me that seems like a big difference in operating temperature, though...
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