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> Black Ph1 145 QV resuscitation
dante giacosa
post 9th January 2019 16:57
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SERIOUS work Jeremy

is that aperture in the final image, below the remaining exhaust cam; the coolant pump hole..?
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JeremyG
post 9th January 2019 17:24
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 9th January 2019 16:57) *
SERIOUS work Jeremy

is that aperture in the final image, below the remaining exhaust cam; the coolant pump hole..?


Yes, that's where the water pump sits.

Just corrected my earlier post - that's obviously the inlet cam I've removed, not the exhaust... blush.gif

The inlet cam is off so I can replace the variator....

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 9th January 2019 17:49
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JeremyG
post 11th January 2019 13:09
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To remove the variator, I clamped the inlet camshaft in a vice using the old cambelt as padding. It took a long breaker bar (with the correct removal tool) to shift the variator but it came off without too much of a struggle.

Below is the new variator in place ready to be tightened onto the camshaft (the tool is already in place) - and the finished product.

Attached Image
Attached Image


There is an oil seal for the variator (which I will also replace) and top and bottom bearing shells. These look in good condition, so there's no need to replace them.

Will be re-fitting and getting the car back on the road over the weekend!

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 11th January 2019 13:16
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JeremyG
post 12th January 2019 17:38
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Today I refitted the inlet cam plus all of the timing belt gubbins, completed the timing, and refitted the cam cover, coil packs and top engine cover.

Had some minor dramas along the way, as follows:

When I removed the water pump, I noticed it had been fitted the wrong way round (rotated by 180 degrees) and that the bracket used to attach the front part of the belt cover had been snapped off. I assumed this was to facilitate fitting it the wrong way round - as in this orientation the bracket fouls a moulding on the front engine cover.

I could see the screw that would have attached to this bracket was present on the belt cover - but seemed to be screwed into a blob of mastic. You can see this in the centre of the photo below:

Attached Image


So I decided to remove this section of the belt cover. This is where the second drama hit me - the screw at the other end of the belt cover, located on the side of the head, was seized:

Attached Image


Unfortunately, it sheared - but left enough of a stub to locate the belt cover on re-assembly.

On looking at the back of the belt cover, I discovered that behind the mastic was the broken piece of bracket from the water pump flange. I wondered if the screw had seized - but it came out easily. Here are the bits:

Attached Image


So I was able to fit the new pump in the correct orientation:

Attached Image


... and re-attach the belt cover as normal (apart from the sheared screw at the other end).

Weird. I have literally no idea why the water pump was installed that way - or indeed, why it was taken out then re-installed that way - because that's what must have happened... or how that bracket had been snapped off at all...

Anyhow, the rest of the belt installation was straightforward enough and the belt is now timed and tensioned up nicely:

Attached Image


The final drama came when refitting the cam cover - when I discovered one of the nine retaining screws was missing. And it was missing because the threads on the hole into which it should have screwed had been stripped.

Now, given this car had a full Alfa specialist history it's a bit disappointing to discover the above bodges. For example, anyone with the slightest knowledge of working with these engines would know not to overtighten the cam cover bolts - they only need to be torqued to a few Nm.

Anyway - no major harm done... just the balance belt to fit tomorrow and then we should be good to go...

I've also got a new cam cover gasket coming next week... I'm considering polishing the cam cover so am expecting to take it off again soon. I may try a helicoil to fix the stripped thread at the same time.

Finally, I discovered that my variator is of the old type and therefore not repairable using the repair kit I bought last week... hey ho...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 13th January 2019 06:33
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Ganz
post 12th January 2019 22:36
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 11th January 2019 13:09) *
To remove the variator, I clamped the inlet camshaft in a vice using the old cambelt as padding. It took a long breaker bar (with the correct removal tool) to shift the variator but it came off without too much of a struggle.

Below is the new variator in place ready to be tightened onto the camshaft (the tool is already in place) - and the finished product.

Attached Image
Attached Image


There is an oil seal for the variator (which I will also replace) and top and bottom bearing shells. These look in good condition, so there's no need to replace them.

Will be re-fitting and getting the car back on the road over the weekend!


My old variator was a b**ger to shift. It took a MAP gun and a pneumatic drill with socket to shift it.

Good work. Yeah defo polish the alloy. I do this at least once a month if not more. Stops the furring.

This post has been edited by Ganz: 12th January 2019 22:42


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dante giacosa
post 13th January 2019 10:13
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terrifying & fascinating stuff, Jeremy!

I've never seen such footage documented of the variator removal; great technique.

I wish I had your skills
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JeremyG
post 13th January 2019 16:31
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 13th January 2019 10:13) *
terrifying & fascinating stuff, Jeremy!

I've never seen such footage documented of the variator removal; great technique.

I wish I had your skills


You're most kind...!

Finished up today with the balance shaft belt:

Attached Image


Started the engine - it ran first time, as I'd expected. It was a bit clattery while the new variator filled with oil, also as expected.

Then refitted the cam belt covers, aux belt pulley and aux belt. The aux belt tensioner has seen better days so that will go on the non-urgent list of Things To Replace.

Re-fitted the header tank and topped up with coolant (Blue Paraflu) and drained some of the engine oil (I'd over-filled it when I changed the oil before Xmas).

And here it is - looking, well, exactly the same as it did before... rolleyes.gif

Attached Image


Went for a spin round the block and loved it, of course... rapid little cars, aren't they?

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 13th January 2019 16:38
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JeremyG
post 15th January 2019 12:47
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Well, here's a surprise... I had a "missed delivery" card from the PO when I got home yesterday - odd, as I hadn't ordered anything that would have been delivered via the Post Office.

Anyway, on collecting it today I discovered it was my long-lost delivery from Bulgaria:

Attached Image
Attached Image


These are 3D-printed replacement headlamp adjusters for a 145/146!

You may recall I considered this solution when trying to fix my shattered headlamp adjusters (see post #98)... but after several weeks of silence and crap excuses from the vendor, I gave up and (successfully) filed a request for a refund via PayPal.

Now here they are - although obviously many months too late...

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 15th January 2019 12:51
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dante giacosa
post 15th January 2019 13:58
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crikey what a find-

do they look like they'll work..??


what kind of a mileage or time period would you put on the belts interval then, Jeremy..?

furthermore; is it accurate to say that the 2.0 has three belts, and the Junior & 1.8; two belts..?

This post has been edited by dante giacosa: 15th January 2019 14:01
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JeremyG
post 15th January 2019 14:22
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 15th January 2019 13:58) *
crikey what a find-

do they look like they'll work..??
what kind of a mileage or time period would you put on the belts interval then, Jeremy..?

furthermore; is it accurate to say that the 2.0 has three belts, and the Junior & 1.8; two belts..?


The headlamp adjusters look right, for sure... I'm sure the adjusters on the other headlamp will break at some point so I'll try them then...

Timing belts - official replacement period is 36,000 miles or three years - whichever comes first. Based on the service record, mine had done approx. 10k miles, but hadn't been changed in 8 years.

The 2.0 is the only Twinspark engine with the balance shafts so it has the extra belt (although apparently you can leave this off if desired).

So yes, if you're including the aux belt then the 2.0 motor has three and all others have just 2 belts.
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dante giacosa
post 15th January 2019 14:29
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right.

(just thinking about the belts interval on your former/my 146!)


could you share your source for the 3D printed headlight adjusters..?

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JeremyG
post 15th January 2019 18:03
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 15th January 2019 14:29) *
right.

(just thinking about the belts interval on your former/my 146!)
could you share your source for the 3D printed headlight adjusters..?


Yes, here's the link: http://manoloff.com/product/headlights-adj...lfa-romeo-1456/

On your car - don't forget I had changed the cambelt prior to it becoming yours... so you've probably got a few miles to go yet...
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JeremyG
post 16th January 2019 16:11
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Had a meeting to go to today so decided to take the 145.gif for an extended test drive.

Total travel time there and back was about four hours of mixed driving - towns, A roads, motorway - and I'm pleased to say the 145 tackled it all with ease - excellent news!!!

Only a couple of problems:

1) The cheapo washer pump I bought to get it through the MoT will now only squirt the back windscreen - I've got a genuine Fiat/Alfa replacement, so will swap this in. This means I can also re-fit the original piping! Sad, I know, but - yay!

2) Re-fuelling takes a long time as the pump keeps cutting out... I've resurrected an old post on this question here: http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtopic=20681

3) The car stalls at idle when cold. I'll try cleaning the throttle body first - but diagnostic info on this site is not always helpful as most relates to the CF2 motor on this subject. I may be back for more help if cleaning the TB doesn't help...

4) The tyres are 3x Goodyear and 1x some no-brand crap tyre - which is on the front right hand wheel. Left hand turns at speed feel somewhat vague - so a pair of decent new front tyres are probably a good idea.

Still, really pleased with the way the car went today - aside from the above, absolutely spot on!

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 16th January 2019 16:44
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dante giacosa
post 16th January 2019 16:53
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that all sounds very encouraging Jeremy- amazing to think how you've turned it around into an everyday-usable vehicle; good for you


Do you think the stalling-at-cold issue could be related to the idle control valve, on the side of the throttle body..?

The FIAT-garage guys used to call it the 'stat valve'...

or is the CF1 setup different ?
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JeremyG
post 18th January 2019 15:39
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 16th January 2019 16:53) *
that all sounds very encouraging Jeremy- amazing to think how you've turned it around into an everyday-usable vehicle; good for you
Do you think the stalling-at-cold issue could be related to the idle control valve, on the side of the throttle body..?

The FIAT-garage guys used to call it the 'stat valve'...

or is the CF1 setup different ?


The CF1 setup includes a cable-operated throttle valve, with a throttle position sensor and an idle control valve.

On the picture below, the ICV is on top of the throttle body; the TPS is the black box attached to the right side.

Attached Image


The throttle position sensor tells the engine ECU how open or closed the throttle is. The ICV will open to bypass the throttle valve when the throttle valve is closed, to allow the engine to idle.

My symptoms are that the car starts and runs fine when hot or cold, but will stall at idle when cold. When it's warm and I take my foot off the throttle, the revs drop to 500 or less before recovering to the correct idle speed. When it's cold, the engine won't run at those low revs and so it just stalls.

So, my suspicion is that the ICV is sticking so it can't open far enough or fast enough to catch the idle before the engine stalls.

I'll try a number of diagnostic steps:

1) The workshop manual lists the resistances of the various circuits for both ICV and TPS - I will check these

2) I'll use MES to check for engine ECU errors

3) I will inspect and clean the ICV with carb cleaner

Will be doing this tomorrow!

Also - I've fitted the new, genuine washer pump along with the original connecting pipes. Of course, it works much better than the pattern part I purchased last year.
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dante giacosa
post 18th January 2019 15:57
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all a good course of action then-

nice to have a procedure.


Yeah!- you can't beat the OEM washer pumps!



(did you see my input on the fuel-filling issue? -the photography shows the breather pipe...)

This post has been edited by dante giacosa: 18th January 2019 15:59
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JeremyG
post 19th January 2019 17:11
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 18th January 2019 15:57) *
(did you see my input on the fuel-filling issue? -the photography shows the breather pipe...)

Yes, thanks... that will be helpful when I get round to fixing this...
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JeremyG
post 19th January 2019 17:33
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My cold idling problems are now fixed - the idle control valve (ICV) had seized.

I first ran MES against the engine ECU - no errors.

MES also has an actuator test for the ICV - when I tried this, I couldn't hear any movement from the ICV.

So I removed the throttle body so I could bring it inside to strip it down and clean it.

This involves removing the air inlet hose plus the breather and two water pipes from the throttle body, then disconnecting the connectors for the ICV and throttle position sensor wires.

Finally the four hex-head bolts holding the throttle body to the airbox can be removed - and then the throttle body unbolted from the plate below that holds a bunch of clips for the heater hoses below, and the throttle cable.

Here it is on my desk, with the ICV and TPS visible:

Attached Image


It took just a few minutes to clean the gunk out of the main airway and the throttle butterfly valve. Then I removed the ICV and discovered it was seized.

It's quite hard to photograph, but the ICV unit straddles the valve in the throttle body, and controls the flow of air through the bypass passages in the throttle body.

The valve itself is a sort of drum or shutter that rotates to block (or open) the airway. In the photo below, the shutter is just visible in the left hand aperture - it rotates to cover the aperture from left to right in this view:

Attached Image


I left it soaking in WD40 for an hour or so - and then discovered I could move it back and forth with a small flat-blade screwdriver. I worked it back and forth for a few minutes until it moved freely - then squirted it with some silicone spray.

On refitting, the car started first time and immediately settled into a high idle - around 1500rpm. After a minute the idle speed gradually dropped down to around 1000rpm - at which point, I switched off as I was bloody freezing...

I'll test it further tomorrow, but my hope is, idle speed will drop down to 850rpm once the engine warms up fully.

Fingers crossed, that's another result.

Final thing - I could have done this in a fraction of the time simply by removing the ICV from the throttle body in situ... next time, eh? coolio.gif

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 19th January 2019 17:38
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Ganz
post 19th January 2019 22:06
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Yeah the idle accentuator usually gets bunged up with carbon residue. I had to do mine last year as the idle kept dropping. I injected loads of carb cleaner into it. Had to make up a gasket as the original one tore off. Been fine ever since. As long as the inside can turn freely the idle should be fine.


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JeremyG
post 20th January 2019 09:29
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QUOTE(Ganz @ 19th January 2019 22:06) *
Yeah the idle accentuator usually gets bunged up with carbon residue. I had to do mine last year as the idle kept dropping. I injected loads of carb cleaner into it. Had to make up a gasket as the original one tore off. Been fine ever since. As long as the inside can turn freely the idle should be fine.


Yes, I lost a small chunk of the gasket on mine too - but seems OK so far.

I'm not sure how long my repair will work - the valve was quite badly stuck.

New genuine Bosch valves are going for around 150 with pattern parts half that... I've just ordered one off eBay for a tenner so I can take it to bits...
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