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> Anyone able/willing to change my cambelt and water pump near Essex?
Reza
post 22nd December 2019 20:50
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1.3 8v
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Hi all,

I have purchased another 145 QV with 196K that needs a restoration.

Does anyone have the skills/experience to do the following;


Full cambelt/waterpump change (all parts supplied)

Welding to floor



It's only a spare car and I should really scrap it but I love the fact its on almost 200k and want to get it there lol.

I'm based in Essex and will pay of course!

Currently she's MOT's so can be driven to you.

Cheers guys,

Reza
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Ganz
post 22nd December 2019 22:20
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QUOTE(Reza @ 22nd December 2019 20:50) *
Hi all,

I have purchased another 145 QV with 196K that needs a restoration.

Does anyone have the skills/experience to do the following;
Full cambelt/waterpump change (all parts supplied)

Welding to floor
It's only a spare car and I should really scrap it but I love the fact its on almost 200k and want to get it there lol.

I'm based in Essex and will pay of course!

Currently she's MOT's so can be driven to you.

Cheers guys,

Reza


Its probably a bit too far for me to travel and the job itself can't be rushed. Why don't you have a go? Its not too difficult and you'll love the buzz you'll get knowing you did it yourself. I had no experience of car engines when I first did it. Section 10 in the pdf 145 user manual is brilliant. Make sure you have the following:

The 2.0 ts cam locks (make sure they are for the 2.0 as 1.6 ones will not fit).
New water pump
New cambelt tensioner
New balancer belt tensioner.
New cambelt
New balance belt
New auxiliary belt
New inlet manifold gasket
New exhaust manifold gasket
Tap out the valve bucket plungers and clean them out in diesel.
Get the head skimmed and valves reground - if you can new valve stems (expensive)
The TDC gauge with the TDC position tool (this screws into the spark plug holes).
A new variator. You might as well unless you don't mind sounding like a smoker.
The exhaust camshaft timing belt pulley locking tool.
The crank pulley socket which has to be slightly tapered to fit in so you can turn the engine over - make sure you turn it in the correct direction. I borrowed one for an Alfa specialist Intaservices but you could grind one yourself if you have got a grinder.
Some camshaft lube.
Brand new set of head bolts
Brand new head gasket - make sure a reputable brand
Brand new head dowels - old ones probably rusted to nothing.
Torque wrench
A drive Torque angle gauge.
All the correct sockets and tools needed. Ribe socket for the head bolts.
New Variator and exhaust cam oil seals (two in total).
Some tippex so you can mark the position of the head bolts after you have tightened them first time round.
The belt tensioner tools - there are two of them one for the main cambelt and if I remember the other one for the balancer belt pulley adjuster.
New cam cover gasket
New water pump and gasket sealant.
Any bits that were missing originally like some of the plastic parts between the block and the head.

Finally, section 10 of the user manual, lots of patience and if in doubt start again. It took me probably 6 months of gradually getting all the above kit before I started. The first time I tensioned the belt I thought it was too slack - in fact looking back it was fine; but because it was my first attempt I took the main cambelt off and started again.


Check out my thread Ganz's Red Devil.

This post has been edited by Ganz: 22nd December 2019 22:22


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Reza
post 22nd December 2019 22:29
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Hi

Why would I remove the cylinder head when all I want to do is change the timing belt?

I can do this myself but don't actually have the time anymore or the space.

Thanks anyhow,

Rez
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Ganz
post 22nd December 2019 23:14
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Driving: 145 Cloverleaf 2.0L ts
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QUOTE(Reza @ 22nd December 2019 22:29) *
Hi

Why would I remove the cylinder head when all I want to do is change the timing belt?

I can do this myself but don't actually have the time anymore or the space.

Thanks anyhow,

Rez


Sorry mate. I was only recounting my experience. But yeah, you don't need to take the head off.


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waynedear
post 22nd December 2019 23:42
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All I will add is if you have a go at it make sure the cam lock bolts are long enough to go in far enough for a solid grip.
Some just go in a couple of threads and will pull out easily.
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dante giacosa
post 23rd December 2019 02:02
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(thread hijack- sorry)

Wayne- is that your car on eBay for 5k??
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waynedear
post 23rd December 2019 09:36
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 23rd December 2019 02:02) *
(thread hijack- sorry)

Wayne- is that your car on eBay for 5k??


No, lol, mine is what you would call a Ďrough old dogí she drives great though.
If I sell it (probably have to, life changes) I will offer it with an mot for £450
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Reza
post 23rd December 2019 17:08
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Donít tempt me with another Alfa project!!

What car is it?
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waynedear
post 23rd December 2019 17:35
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QUOTE(Reza @ 23rd December 2019 17:08) *
Donít tempt me with another Alfa project!!

What car is it?


146ti, give me £800 and Iíll throw in a project skinny 155 8v as well
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Reza
post 23rd December 2019 18:26
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More details please mate

And more importantly, rust!!
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dante giacosa
post 23rd December 2019 20:30
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Ha!

You can keep the rust- thanks!

But more details on the 146 would be welcome Wayne...
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Harpo
post 5th January 2020 02:31
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QUOTE(waynedear @ 22nd December 2019 23:42) *
All I will add is if you have a go at it make sure the cam lock bolts are long enough to go in far enough for a solid grip.
Some just go in a couple of threads and will pull out easily.


Read this elsewhere too. Apparently folk use the cam bolts which ainít the correct thing.
I bought a set of longer bolts off eBay. They were for a moped iirc.
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