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> Fuel pump change Alfa 145 2.0 ts
Griff
post 20th August 2021 18:23
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Hu guys, I need a little help: my fuel pump kinda died on me so I have to take the old one out and put the new one in.
My questions to you are:
1. The new pump that I bought is the right one ? By the look of it I'm doubting that although I bought it folllowing the chassis serial number;
2. How am I going to open the gas tank cap ? I have no clue I didn't do it before.
3. What are the steps to change this pump ?

Thank you for all the advice you can give me.

p.s. I'm attaching a picture of the fuel pump I bought maybe someone can tell me if I got the right thing.
p.s 2 I couldn't find any youtube video on this subject maybe there's a linkon this forum that could help me
cheers from Romania
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dante giacosa
post 21st August 2021 22:02
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Hi Griff-

Iím uniquely placed to discuss this, having assisted in an identical swap out in the last month, on a FIAT Coupe, which to my eyes, was identical (and I expect interchangeable) with our setup.

The first thing I think I would say; is, are you REALLY sure the pump itself has died? because itís relatively rare.

Anyway- you need to unscrew the access hatch in the boot/ under the back seat, and Ďdriftí off the giant lockring round all the connections, but carefully tapping a piece of timber against it, on the right hand side (unscrew).

The tank and pump-assembly are somewhat misaligned to the hatch- but the whole thing Ďshouldí come out at an angle.
Be VERY careful in removing all the fuel-lines from the car some of them like to snap off at the pump connections- the plastic is brittle with age!

I couldnít say if you have the right pump Ďyetí, but it appears correct- there should be a polarity shown for + and - on the body, and this may well invert between the one you are removing and the one you are replacing.

With me so far?

This post has been edited by dante giacosa: 21st August 2021 22:04
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Griff
post 26th August 2021 14:59
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 21st August 2021 22:02) *
Hi Griff-

Iím uniquely placed to discuss this, having assisted in an identical swap out in the last month, on a FIAT Coupe, which to my eyes, was identical (and I expect interchangeable) with our setup.

The first thing I think I would say; is, are you REALLY sure the pump itself has died? because itís relatively rare.

Anyway- you need to unscrew the access hatch in the boot/ under the back seat, and Ďdriftí off the giant lockring round all the connections, but carefully tapping a piece of timber against it, on the right hand side (unscrew).

The tank and pump-assembly are somewhat misaligned to the hatch- but the whole thing Ďshouldí come out at an angle.
Be VERY careful in removing all the fuel-lines from the car some of them like to snap off at the pump connections- the plastic is brittle with age!

I couldnít say if you have the right pump Ďyetí, but it appears correct- there should be a polarity shown for + and - on the body, and this may well invert between the one you are removing and the one you are replacing.

With me so far?


You're right. Fuel pump wasn't the issue...the symptom is this: at over 3500 rpm the engine chokes and doesn't idle at 800 rpm so what causes that is the question.
I had another throttle body and change it today, same problems.
I changed fuel pump relays and still the same.
A friend of mine suggested that the throttle position sensor might be ? All vacuum lines seem to be in their right places and everything looks ok. I'm running out of ideas...there's one thing that keeps popping in my head... a couple of months ago when I did the MOT inspection seems to be the time when this problem apeared. They have verified the serial number on the engine and looked in the engine bay with a sort of a lamp. Could that be the moment that they did something to the car by accident of course? Is something in that area that could've been damaged by accident ?
thank you
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dante giacosa
post 27th August 2021 05:04
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Hey Griff-

yes; that sounds a bit strange and entirely possibly like the throttle position sensor has gone out of alignment.

There is a reset for this, should it ever be disconnected from the butterfly valve and the car itself (electrically); but I can't quote you it, right now.


Can you be a bit more specific about the symptoms? You seem to half explain two different things there; are you saying that at 3500rpm the engine stalls?
and that it idles-high also?

High-idling is often attributed to a split or air gap in the intake-manifold hosing; around or before the throttle body, but the holing at high revs will require a bit more thought; it suggests (if the throttle position sensor is misaligned) that it's hitting the rev limiter; but tacho-pulse is established independently at the rpm sensor.

Do you have a metal, or plastic-topped engine, Griff..?
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Griff
post 30th August 2021 07:44
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 27th August 2021 05:04) *
Hey Griff-

yes; that sounds a bit strange and entirely possibly like the throttle position sensor has gone out of alignment.

There is a reset for this, should it ever be disconnected from the butterfly valve and the car itself (electrically); but I can't quote you it, right now.
Can you be a bit more specific about the symptoms? You seem to half explain two different things there; are you saying that at 3500rpm the engine stalls?
and that it idles-high also?

High-idling is often attributed to a split or air gap in the intake-manifold hosing; around or before the throttle body, but the holing at high revs will require a bit more thought; it suggests (if the throttle position sensor is misaligned) that it's hitting the rev limiter; but tacho-pulse is established independently at the rpm sensor.

Do you have a metal, or plastic-topped engine, Griff..?

I have a metal engine cover. The engine stalls at over 3500 rpm and idle is at 1500 rpm. The throttle position sensor can simply be replaced(plug and play) or there's some procedure with steps for replacing it ? I bought a new one...
About the symptoms: there could be two separate problems in this story it's just my assumption that the two are linked together.

This post has been edited by Griff: 30th August 2021 07:45
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dante giacosa
post 5th September 2021 20:21
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QUOTE(Griff @ 30th August 2021 08:44) *
I have a metal engine cover. The engine stalls at over 3500 rpm and idle is at 1500 rpm. The throttle position sensor can simply be replaced(plug and play) or there's some procedure with steps for replacing it ? I bought a new one...
About the symptoms: there could be two separate problems in this story it's just my assumption that the two are linked together.


Sorry Griff- I didnít see your reply until now;

Yes- if you have installed a new throttle position sensor; it has to be calibrated to the car.

Iím sorry; thatís all I can tell you as I stand here; if that hasnít been done then itís certainly going to contribute to a running problem similar to the one you describe
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Griff
post 10th September 2021 15:48
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 5th September 2021 20:21) *
Sorry Griff- I didnít see your reply until now;

Yes- if you have installed a new throttle position sensor; it has to be calibrated to the car.

Iím sorry; thatís all I can tell you as I stand here; if that hasnít been done then itís certainly going to contribute to a running problem similar to the one you describe

how the throttle position sensor is calibrated ? cause I have no idea whatsoever...
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dante giacosa
post 11th September 2021 06:09
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QUOTE(Griff @ 10th September 2021 16:48) *
how the throttle position sensor is calibrated ? cause I have no idea whatsoever...


Hey Griff-

I found mention of it, in the 8th post down on this; not much use, but itís a hint at whatís involved

http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtop...TPS+calibration

You should maybe trawl the twin spark engine only thread topics- itís definitely come up before
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Griff
post 11th September 2021 09:07
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 11th September 2021 06:09) *
Hey Griff-

I found mention of it, in the 8th post down on this; not much use, but itís a hint at whatís involved

http://forum.alfa145.com/index.php?showtop...TPS+calibration

You should maybe trawl the twin spark engine only thread topics- itís definitely come up before

ok, thank you
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dante giacosa
post 11th September 2021 20:40
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QUOTE(Griff @ 11th September 2021 10:07) *
ok, thank you


The other thing being mentioned is the MAF of course...
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Griff
post Today, 13:22
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 11th September 2021 20:40) *
The other thing being mentioned is the MAF of course...


It turns out that ECU (computer) is at fault so my next question is : where can I buy one ?
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Typpi
post Today, 14:58
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QUOTE(Griff @ 20th September 2021 16:22) *
It turns out that ECU (computer) is at fault so my next question is : where can I buy one ?


How did you diagnose the ecu fault?
First thing you should try is to take all the relays and fuses in the engine bay out one by one. Then use a small fine file or sand paper to clean the corrosion from all of the contact points. I'm willing to bet that will fix your car.
I think the main culprit is the big fuses between battery and firewall.
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