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> 1.4ts -> 2.0ts Swap
Mikkey
post 28th December 2009 14:58
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Hi, I'm new around here and I've just managed to transfer a 2.0TS from AR155 to my 145 Limited 500. The list of necessary modifications is quite long, so I'd have some trouble translating it blush.gif The engine is a pure hybrid made out of 155 and 156. (155 engine block fitted with 156 equipment - 155HP) The only problem is the BOSCH computer set. Engine doesn't start when equipped with 156 2.0TS computer. (alfa code warning control blinks). Does it mean I have to serach for the 145/146 2.0TS facelift computer? (yr 98-2000) Right now I'm using my old 145 1.4TS computer set. The car works just fine, but of course can't develop all the power.

PS. I'm not sure how You guys call the engine-management systems in short. In Poland we call it a computer.

This post has been edited by Mikkey: 28th December 2009 14:59


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NaanBread
post 28th December 2009 15:33
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engine management system = ECU or computer like u said lol

someone will be here soon enough to help you with the more nitty gritty, but i was reading about this code stuff last night and the "code" box might need to be re-coded with the information of the new engine ECU i think so that they can both talk to each other if tht makes any sense smile.gif


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rdanny
post 28th December 2009 17:08
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lol computer will do or ECU


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Hybrd
post 28th December 2009 18:10
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there should'nt have been that much to mod really, as they are essentially the same, and if you had bit from a 156 (plastic top) and a 155 block and head (alloy top) its just a case of sensors and pulleys.

For the ecu (computer) you will have a code light on if the original code box is still fitted with any ecu other than your original, to cure this you will need a ecu, code box, and the chips from the keys from a car equippet with a 2.0l 16v twinspark with the plastic top (155bhp)

The reason is because your key contains a chip, the chip signals the code box to unlock the ecu and allow it to start and run, thus meaning with out the key the car wont start, unfortunatly the key chip is unique to the code box which in turn is unique to the ecu so all must used together and cannot EASILY be cross swapped with other items. HTH biggrin.gif


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Mikkey
post 28th December 2009 19:59
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QUOTE(bla3d00r @ 28th December 2009 19:10) *
there should'nt have been that much to mod really, as they are essentially the same, and if you had bit from a 156 (plastic top) and a 155 block and head (alloy top) its just a case of sensors and pulleys.

For the ecu (computer) you will have a code light on if the original code box is still fitted with any ecu other than your original, to cure this you will need a ecu, code box, and the chips from the keys from a car equippet with a 2.0l 16v twinspark with the plastic top (155bhp)

The reason is because your key contains a chip, the chip signals the code box to unlock the ecu and allow it to start and run, thus meaning with out the key the car wont start, unfortunatly the key chip is unique to the code box which in turn is unique to the ecu so all must used together and cannot EASILY be cross swapped with other items. HTH biggrin.gif


Right, but the problem was that the guy who runs this whole swap operation:) has already tried to mount a 156 2.0TS ECU, code box, and swapped the key chips. Still, the car didn't start...


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GialloEvo94
post 28th December 2009 20:46
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QUOTE(Mikkey @ 28th December 2009 19:59) *
Right, but the problem was that the guy who runs this whole swap operation:) has already tried to mount a 156 2.0TS ECU, code box, and swapped the key chips. Still, the car didn't start...

Mikkey...just to ensure we are understanding things correctly, did the guy who did the engine swap take the Engine ECU AND the CODE ECU AND the transponder chips from inside the keys of the donor 156 where all of those 3 items were previously running an engine in that 156 without any problems?

Also, does the CODE light remain constantly lit after turning on the ignition or does it flash on and off (indefinitely)? If it flashes on and off, which of the following patterns is it? ...
  1. 0.7 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off, then fast constant flashing on and off
  2. 0.5 second on, 1.5 seconds off, repeatedly
  3. 0.5 second on, 0.5 seconds off, 0.5 seconds on, 1.5 seconds off, repeatedly


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Mikkey
post 28th December 2009 22:21
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 28th December 2009 21:46) *
Mikkey...just to ensure we are understanding things correctly, did the guy who did the engine swap take the Engine ECU AND the CODE ECU AND the transponder chips from inside the keys of the donor 156 where all of those 3 items were previously running an engine in that 156 without any problems?


Exactly. However the whole set of these parts was taken from his assemblage (he trades Alfa spare parts). I don't know, maybe there's sth wrong with this stuff, and it's difficult to check if runs properly - no other 2.0TS 155bhp around

You say that this kit (engine ECU, code ECU and the transponder chips) from 156 should work on 145, right?

QUOTE
Also, does the CODE light remain constantly lit after turning on the ignition or does it flash on and off (indefinitely)?


It remained constantly lit.


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GialloEvo94
post 28th December 2009 23:29
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QUOTE(Mikkey @ 28th December 2009 22:21) *
You say that this kit (engine ECU, code ECU and the transponder chips) from 156 should work on 145, right?

Correct...all those parts from a 156 will work in a 145 assuming it's the CODE 1 system (with a master key) and not the CODE 2 system from the later 156's (no master key).

QUOTE(Mikkey @ 28th December 2009 22:21) *
It remained constantly lit.

Then the most likely cause is no power getting to the CODE ECU. If the CODE ECU doesn't get an immediate and reliable +12v as soon as the ignition is switched on then the car will remain immobilised and the CODE light will stay permanently lit. Check that the plugs on the CODE ECU are properly seated and that the relay supplying the CODE ECU with power (one of the red relays in the box just in front of the battery) is working properly and is properly wired up. The relay you need to look at is number (2) in this post (Main Engine Relay).


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dellsbells
post 29th December 2009 11:30
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give the big yellow box a wiggel,,,,
old trick that work for me a few years ago,my car was not starting and code light was staying on,,
when you look at fuse box you can not miss it as it,s the biggist box in there and its yellow,
pull it out then push back in,,,might work when swoping chips and ecu,,,,,,try it with power off first then try with power on ,,
if you understand what i mean me,,,,n1 dell
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Mikkey
post 29th December 2009 16:53
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Thanks a lot for your support. As soon as I'm at my service I do as You suggest and let You guys know what comes out of it


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thamaesta
post 10th January 2010 14:06
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hi guys,

i did the same thing in my 147
it had a 1.6 veloce engine and i swapped it for an 1.8 from a 146

the best thing is to keep evrything original except the engine offcorse....because it will be alot cheaper...
if you change the ecu and keys and transponders it will cost you a bit more then what I did:

I contacted my tuner (squadra tuning) and he told me i could use my own ecu, however it would run like a 1.6 with more torque offcorse but it would not be running good from 4000rpm...so he took the data he used for 1.8 engines and he putted it in my 1.6 ecu...after that he finetuned it and now i have a 147 1.8 squadra chipped
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Hybrd
post 10th January 2010 17:32
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and how much did all that ecu work cost? added to which squadra only offer chip tuning for the 145/146 not remaps.


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thamaesta
post 10th January 2010 23:28
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ok. in case that the 145/146 ecu cant be flashed than you have to install the ecu of the 2.0ts
to swap everything you will pay around 300-500 euro's aroud here....included installment

for me it costed me 150 euro's to flash my ecu to the tuned 1.8 version....and he finetuned it on the rolling road
150 euro was a discount price because i allready tuned my 1.6 ecu at squadra.

i do have to say that if you are choosing to keep the same ecu for now....dont go beyond 4000rpm!!! it can damage you engine quite alot!
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Mikkey
post 5th March 2010 13:28
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QUOTE(GialloEvo94 @ 28th December 2009 21:46) *
...
  1. 0.7 seconds on, 0.8 seconds off, then fast constant flashing on and off
  2. 0.5 second on, 1.5 seconds off, repeatedly
  3. 0.5 second on, 0.5 seconds off, 0.5 seconds on, 1.5 seconds off, repeatedly


Could You clarify what these flashing patterns mean, one by one?


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Mikkey
post 17th April 2010 01:02
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After almost 4 months of hunting for 145/146 155bhp ECU, the job is done. Guy just couldn't fit my 145 with any 156 ECU and stuff.

The list of parts replaced or modified,
- engine - 2.0TS 16v from 155 Super,
- modified engine mounting (Older TS into 145 facelift)
- sump from 156
- modified air-conditioning compressor mounting (not enough room)
- intake manifold from 2.0 155bhp
- fuel injectors and engine wires from 156,
- throttle from 145 QV
- plastic top (alloy top didn't fit because of 156 injectors)
- thermostat from 2.0TS
- some sensors I cannot translate from 156
- exhaust from Gtv 2.0TS
- gearbox from 146 Ti, gearbox cover from 156
- half-shafts from 145 QV
- starter from Gtv 2.0TS
- ECU, code box and a key chip from 146 Ti 155bhp

This swap cost me 3500PLN so about 790 quid, including all the parts.
The car works perfectly fine! Here's my dyno diagram


Regards.


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langers
post 17th April 2010 10:05
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Top work fella! Have you done the brakes?

Thats a smooooth curve!


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Mikkey
post 17th April 2010 15:01
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Although the 1.4 brakes work pretty fine, next month I'm about to install the 145 QV brakes. Currently out of cash, just bought Conti Premium Contact 2 tyres for my little girl rolleyes.gif I'm in love again biggrin.gif


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Croatian145QV
post 20th April 2010 06:28
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QUOTE(Mikkey @ 17th April 2010 17:01) *
Although the 1.4 brakes work pretty fine, next month I'm about to install the 145 QV brakes. Currently out of cash, just bought Conti Premium Contact 2 tyres for my little girl rolleyes.gif I'm in love again biggrin.gif

Good Work.
You are aware that the QV brales are not a simple bolt on?
The whole assebly that holds the brakes has to be changed.

The QV has larger bolts holding the calliper mount, larger and wider callipers, larger discs etc.

The best thing would be to get yourself a complete Qv hub with the disc and mount that to your shock absorber stut and balljoint.


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old146
post 6th May 2010 10:25
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I just noticed Mikkey, you have a 500 Limited...
can u post photos? What wheels have you got?


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Mikkey
post 8th May 2010 00:17
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QUOTE(old146 @ 6th May 2010 10:25) *
I just noticed Mikkey, you have a 500 Limited...
can u post photos? What wheels have you got?


Had to change Zender 16" alloys for standard 15" "telephones". Roads in Poland don't make me feel like use 16/40 tyres.



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