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> Black Ph1 145 QV resuscitation
JeremyG
post 6th August 2018 11:07
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QUOTE(145man @ 5th August 2018 11:19) *
Hi

I used a fairly blunt chisel to remove the bitumen layer on mine, I removed it all but it is hard going. Once removed I primed and sprayed the floor for extra protection, then used the self adhesive sound pads to replace the bitumen. Heat the sound pads with a heat gun and they go in a treat.
I used felt and crumb rubber carpet underlay to replace the other stuff. Ive used this on several cars and again it works well.
Hope this is of use.


Thanks, that's helpful - was the underlay standard household material you'd get from a regular carpet store?



QUOTE(SteveG @ 5th August 2018 23:23) *
Don't know how practical/possible for DIY use, but on one episode of Wheeler Dealers or maybe it was Car SOS, they use dry ice - kind of makes it brittle and yhen chip it out


Thanks, sounds like either hot or cold will be needed to shift this stuff more easily than just gouging it out...

I've been scoring the surface with a Stanley knife, then chipping away in 2-3cm chunks using a flat-blade screwdriver and a hammer. Wire-brushing has revealed some clean metal to cut back to:

Attached Image


And here are the results of my headlamp adjuster repair:

Attached Image


... and refitting in the headlamp unit...

Attached Image


I've reassembled and refitted the headlamp and the adjuster works OK - it just gets to the same level as the intact unit, but no higher. Fingers crossed it'll get me through the MoT!

This post has been edited by JeremyG: 6th August 2018 12:25
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dante giacosa
post 7th August 2018 08:20
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good work, Jeremy-

did you grind that back yourself..?
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JeremyG
post 7th August 2018 08:45
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 7th August 2018 09:20) *
good work, Jeremy-

did you grind that back yourself..?


Yessir. Wire brush attachment on a drill.
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dante giacosa
post 7th August 2018 13:03
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good effort- it's very clean- what decision did you come to over welding..?
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JeremyG
post 12th August 2018 16:22
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 7th August 2018 14:03) *
good effort- it's very clean- what decision did you come to over welding..?


Passenger's side floorpan - much more solid, with only a couple of perforations and not too far apart:

Attached Image


Having wirebrushed the underside of both of these floorpan repair spots I'll be taking the car round to the welders tomorrow to get a price...
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dante giacosa
post 13th August 2018 06:13
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fingers crossed then...!
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JeremyG
post Yesterday, 09:34
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 13th August 2018 07:13) *
fingers crossed then...!


OK - car inspected and acceptable quote received - now I just need to strip back more of the bitumen gunk from the interior and I'll get it booked in. Aiming for next week.
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dante giacosa
post Yesterday, 13:41
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good work-

that's great news. Seems to be the wrong time of year for smashing that stuff off, eh?

Doesn't it shatter 'better' if it's cold...


All the work; in-one-visit then, Jeremy..?

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JeremyG
post Yesterday, 13:46
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QUOTE(dante giacosa @ 15th August 2018 14:41) *
good work-

that's great news. Seems to be the wrong time of year for smashing that stuff off, eh?

Doesn't it shatter 'better' if it's cold...
All the work; in-one-visit then, Jeremy..?


Yes, all in one hit - two patches to the front outer floorpan both sides, and the little patch on the outer sill at the back.

Question: given there is currently a hole in the sill, is it worth taking the opportunity of injecting Dinitrol (or the like) via that route before it gets plugged forever?

(Not sure if those products are flammable and therefore not a good mix with a welding torch...)
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dante giacosa
post Yesterday, 16:33
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Ha!

the Dinitrol question!

The stuff you want for the sills is called ML, by the way. An internal-cavity wax. Get the extension-wand.

Actually- i've STILL to use mine.


You can access the internal sill afterwards from the front I think (maybe the back as well..?) through these removable blind-grommets in the sill-to-lower-arch join.

I personally wouldn't want to compromise the weld 'adhesion'' and surface prep; with all that stuff swilling round inside; chances are the heat from the work will melt it all in a flash anyway! I'm not sure if it's flammable; but I'd want to give them the driest surface available to try to get the new material to take to...
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SteveG
post Yesterday, 20:34
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QUOTE(JeremyG @ 15th August 2018 14:46) *
Yes, all in one hit - two patches to the front outer floorpan both sides, and the little patch on the outer sill at the back.

Question: given there is currently a hole in the sill, is it worth taking the opportunity of injecting Dinitrol (or the like) via that route before it gets plugged forever?

(Not sure if those products are flammable and therefore not a good mix with a welding torch...)

I would get welding done first.
You can use the holes for the sill trim to inject Dinitrol or whatever.
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