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![]() 1.6 8v ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 906 Joined: 28th March 2017 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 13,068 Driving: 146 CF2 1.8 T-spark From: Edinburgh ![]() |
thats funny about the forecourt!
top marks for getting that bonnet open, Jeremy; I'm afraid my brood are too young, and too deeply cynicised to assist in such a task. Lucky those windows still work; its certainly good news that all the lights went out again; including the ABS indicator. I think I'd want to know that the radiator fan still actuates; could be important! However; in all other respects- I admire your shortlist for a Saturday morning! |
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![]() 1.6 8v ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 984 Joined: 2nd November 2012 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 From: East Mids Member No.: 10,640 Driving: 145 Cloverleaf 2.0L ts From: uk ![]() |
Definite drain the oil then flush it with some Diesel to get any s**t out. Replace with some cheap oil just to get the engine over by hand. Worth changing filter for that first start. Alternators can seize so get that turning without the belt on. Worth taking the cam cover off to look at the condition. They'll be sludge for sure. Worth cleaning that out with some cleaner or diesel on a rag. With hindsight I would empty he coolant and replace it. My engine was full of s**t after nearly four years of standing. Condensation plays its part. These engines are pretty resilient. All the best.
-------------------- G A N Z 145
Instagram ganz145_alfa |
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![]() 1.6 8v ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 906 Joined: 28th March 2017 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 13,068 Driving: 146 CF2 1.8 T-spark From: Edinburgh ![]() |
on the subject of seized alternators
here's a question; should I be able to turn an alternator over, by hand, with it off the car..? I've got an issue on another vehicle (practically the exact alternator that is on the ![]() |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
on the subject of seized alternators here's a question; should I be able to turn an alternator over, by hand, with it off the car..? I've got an issue on another vehicle (practically the exact alternator that is on the ![]() Yes, you should be able to turn your alternator by hand. But as Ganz mentioned above, they do seem to seize up - on my Spider I had to replace it; on the 145 I'm hoping not to do so (more below). |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
As it was such a nice day today and work was kinda slow I decided to spend some time on the checklist above. Here's how I got on:
Engine: a) Remove aux belt and check alternator, power steering pump and aircon compressor will all still turn by hand - DONE: Belt removed; alternator stuck; power steering pump OK; aircon compressor not present (b**ger - it's a non-A/C car) b) Remove timing belt cover and assess cam belt condition - DONE: Timing belt looks OK and tensioner is a metal one supporting the service history c) If OK, remove engine top cover, coil packs and spark plugs - DONE: Plenty of oil in all of the plug wells... so plenty of lube in the combustion chambers when attempting to start, then. Some slight damage to one of the plug connectors but not fatal - and the frame holding the coil packs is missing one of its three mounting points. d) Attempt to rotate engine by hand - add lubricant to combustion chambers if required (small amount of engine oil? Plus Gas?) - DONE: engine rotates fine by hand with the plugs out e) If successful, connect battery from 146 and crank engine for compression test - NOT DONE (haven't got a compression tester yet) f) If successful, add fresh fuel, clean and refit spark plugs and go for a start! - DONE: partially successful; the engine turned over, coughed and ran for about 5 seconds burning all of the oil in the combustion chambers - lots of smoke. On retry would not run for more than a few seconds at a time. No errors on engine ECU. Air intake clear; throttle body cleaned. Still no joy. Therefore, suspect no fuel supply. g) If successful, run engine up to temperature and check for leaks. Shut off then replace engine oil and filter. Top up coolant if required. - NOT DONE So... time to do some reading on best way to check and clean fuel system... (although I could cobble something temporary together to feed it fuel from the identical engine on my Spider as a test...) Not a bad morning's work - provided that alternator can be persuaded to move. I don't fancy replacing that right now... This post has been edited by JeremyG: 20th April 2018 18:28 |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
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![]() 1.6 8v ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 906 Joined: 28th March 2017 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 13,068 Driving: 146 CF2 1.8 T-spark From: Edinburgh ![]() |
Good effort, Jeremy
How satisfying to get it to fire after four years. And of course; that's the worst of it over; even though it didn't actually run for a period of time, the fact it turned over and blew off the cobwebs is the major hurdle over. All downhill from here! From what I can see of the shell and top-mounts from those pictures- it looks really solid... |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
Good effort, Jeremy How satisfying to get it to fire after four years. And of course; that's the worst of it over; even though it didn't actually run for a period of time, the fact it turned over and blew off the cobwebs is the major hurdle over. All downhill from here! From what I can see of the shell and top-mounts from those pictures- it looks really solid... Thanks Jim! I'm pleased/relieved about the rust-free state of the engine bay - so far it just looks like the sills that will need repairing. And obviously all of this takes way longer than you ever expect... |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
Investigated further the fuel supply issue today. Conclusion: pump is not running.
Started by disconnecting input line to the fuel rail and turning over the engine: no fuel was pumped Then checked power to the pump: none; earth side OK (which means the inertial cutoff had not been activated). Checked all of the relays leading to the pump (which was a familiar routine as I've recently done the same thing on my Spider) and discovered that the layout of the relays is not as per the manual. For those interested, the layout in the pic below is - from left to right - variator relay (S12c), main relay (S41), fuel pump relay (S12a). (The manual has these as fuel pump, then variator, then main relay. I guess they could be installed in any order...) All relays work correctly, however, and continuity of the downstream cabling to the pump was OK. Then I noticed a voltage at the pump immediately after turning on the ignition; and figured that the pump would not be running if the engine was not running. Sure enough, when turning the key to start, there is a voltage at the pump... There is, however, still no sign of life from the pump itself, so I undid the knurled ring retaining the pump - but will probably leave it until tomorrow to get under the car and work out how to drop the tank. There's no way to remove the pump without doing this, given the access cover is in the wrong place... Re. the alternator: I've turned the engine over (fruitlessly) many times now so I decided to refit the auxiliary belt to see if the alternator would budge under the starter motor: answer - YES! So, making progress - but I really want to hear that motor running! Anyone dropped their tank before? Any pointers? This post has been edited by JeremyG: 21st April 2018 15:12 |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
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![]() 1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 179 Joined: 12th December 2004 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 662 Driving: in front of you From: Lardtown, 'ulll ![]() |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
Removed the fuel pump assembly from the tank today (turns out it is just possible to do this without dropping the tank) and tested the pump - it's drawing current, but not pumping.
I stripped the unit down to get the pump out - it looks like an artefact from the Titanic...! I tried hitting it with a mallet a few times but it still won't move - so, I'll be replacing it asap. Baby steps... ... and to make up for the frustration of not being able to move forward, I polished the tailgate - came up nice! Colour is 601 black - nothing fancy. This post has been edited by JeremyG: 22nd April 2018 20:40 |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
Well, I received my replacement Bosch fuel pump today, fitted it - and the car started straight off!
Fair bit of smoke (oil on the downpipe) and a tapping from the top of the engine (sticky cam follower?) but definitely a step in the right direction. Need to check the coolant, lock down the pump assembly and go for a quick road test next. If the drivetrain is sound, she's a keeper! |
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![]() 1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 153 Joined: 9th July 2011 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 From: Portugal Member No.: 6,783 Driving: 146 1.6 T.SPARK CF1 From: Portugal ![]() |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
how you did that? No magic, really - remove the inspection cover in the boot, disconnect cables x2, fuel hose x2 and breather hose. Use a mallet and large flat blade screwdriver to loosen the retaining ring and remove it. Then you can lift the pump assembly and carefully twist and rotate it up and out via the inspection hole. It only just fits, so prepare to be patient. |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
Well, I received my replacement Bosch fuel pump today, fitted it - and the car started straight off! Fair bit of smoke (oil on the downpipe) and a tapping from the top of the engine (sticky cam follower?) but definitely a step in the right direction. Need to check the coolant, lock down the pump assembly and go for a quick road test next. If the drivetrain is sound, she's a keeper! Had a bit more time this evening so I completed refitting the pump, checked for leaks, re-attached the inspection cover and replaced the boot carpet. Then I started the engine and let it run up to temperature - the thermostat opened and the temperature gauge steadied at 80 degrees. While this was happening, I checked all of the lights, wipers, washers, windows, heater etc etc - and amazingly everything seems to work OK. Although I did chicken out of trying the sunroof... Finally, I checked I could engage and move off in all gears. So, barring a quick test drive, that's my initial checklist complete. Good news! |
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![]() 1.6 8v ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 906 Joined: 28th March 2017 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 13,068 Driving: 146 CF2 1.8 T-spark From: Edinburgh ![]() |
Well done, sir!
That's incredible- what a success story. I admire your methodical approach- I really felt like I was 'living' those steps with you! My relays are out of sync on the mount too. I think it's consistently wrong, relative to the manual though. Giallo Evo did a post on it once. I really should label mine up for identification in a crisis... That's funny about the fuel pump- if that is the ONLY unsalvagable thing from the original configuration; it's not a hardship! what else could go wrong before a test drive? Brake fluid? Gearbox oil? P.S. I personally would use a copper-bristle-(hand)brush on the engine cover initially; it might be less aggressive. This post has been edited by dante giacosa: 25th April 2018 21:37 |
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1.4 16v ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 363 Joined: 19th August 2016 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 12,797 Driving: 166 3.0 Sportronic, 145 QV From: Oxford ![]() |
Well done, sir! That's incredible - what a success story. Thanks, Dante... well, I do love a list... The pump was a direct replacement at £35 so I can't complain about that - although I'll need a new battery, too - I'd like to think the fact the car had been looked after by Alfa specialists most of its life has made a difference. Long term I'll need to replace all fluids and filters, cambelt, aux belt, water pump, all tensioners and spark plugs - discs and pads actually look OK so I may get away without changing those. But until I drive it I won't know what state the suspension is in... that'll happen on Friday, I reckon. Good call on the wire brush - or I might even try an over scourer. The plastic tops are easier - put them through the dishwasher! |
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![]() 1.6 8v ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Posts: 906 Joined: 28th March 2017 Local Time: 20th February 2019 02:08 Member No.: 13,068 Driving: 146 CF2 1.8 T-spark From: Edinburgh ![]() |
dishwasher! thats funny
the dishwasher in my house, is typing this response... there are many flavours of wire brush- the copper bristled one is least aggressive I think... |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 20 Feb 2019 02:08 |